Hey guys I took the boat out today and the bow went up a little high.  I also had my wife with me which weighed it down.  So my concern is how high will it go when it's just me.  

Any ways I am thinking about getting a motor stabilizer/ Trolling plate for the motor will this work?

I have a 3 HP mercury pushing a aluminum 12' jon boat.  Do they make these devises in for this model.  I read on a pakage at wallmart they are adjustable is this true?

Also guys when I take a turn at med speed the boat is very unstable going left to right.  I have been looking at outrigged stabilizers floats.  What you guys think.

For a 3 hp motor you can't make it plain. That motor isn't big enough for that. Don't waste your money on that fin for a 3 hp, its not going to plain any boat. If you put some weight in the front it may keep it from raising the bow so high, but thats about all you can do. Outriggers will make it more stable. There are some other threads on here about people using those.

If I was you i would check the serial number on that three and make sure that it's not a 30 HP that someone switch the cowling on

But if it is a three HP just add some weight to the front end and that should solve your problem

BTW I saw the $25 Motor Stabilizer at wally world today, almost got a package for the Eska 2.5 HP.  That I used on my canoe.

What jackplate are you using?

What's your tach reading at WOT?

Sounds like you may be experiencing a little bit of chine walking in the turn.  What height is your engine at off of the pad?

Are you running a 3 or 4 blade prop?

What jackplate are you using?

What's your tach reading at WOT?

Sounds like you may be experiencing a little bit of chine walking in the turn. What height is your engine at off of the pad?

Are you running a 3 or 4 blade prop?

Are you asking me b/c I don't have a jackplate?

If I was you i would check the serial number on that three and make sure that it's not a 30 HP that someone switch the cowling on

But if it is a three HP just add some weight to the front end and that should solve your problem

BTW I saw the $25 Motor Stabilizer at wally world today, almost got a package for the Eska 2.5 HP. That I used on my canoe.

This is a 3.0 HP for sure.  My jon boat is just like a conoe. Its light enough were 2 men can pick it up.  It used to be a row boat.

I really think the outriggers might make the boat much safer.  Any one disagree?

Ok I understand now I thought you had the Yamaha 3 HP

You have the Mercury Verado 3 HP Right

For a 3 hp motor you can't make it plain. That motor isn't big enough for that. Don't waste your money on that fin for a 3 hp, its not going to plain any boat. If you put some weight in the front it may keep it from raising the bow so high, but thats about all you can do. Outriggers will make it more stable. There are some other threads on here about people using those.

Hey I can't find the thread about the outriggers.  I never do good with the search engine on here why is that?

For a 3 hp motor you can't make it plain. That motor isn't big enough for that. Don't waste your money on that fin for a 3 hp, its not going to plain any boat. If you put some weight in the front it may keep it from raising the bow so high, but thats about all you can do. Outriggers will make it more stable. There are some other threads on here about people using those.

Hey I can't find the thread about the outriggers. I never do good with the search engine on here why is that?

Here is that tread on the out riggers

http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1235045372/11#11

Ok I understand now I thought you had the Yamaha 3 HP

You have the Mercury Verado 3 HP Right

no thats not my model either.  I think its the mariner from the 90's

CGH thanks

For a 3 hp motor you can't make it plain. That motor isn't big enough for that. Don't waste your money on that fin for a 3 hp, its not going to plain any boat. If you put some weight in the front it may keep it from raising the bow so high, but thats about all you can do. Outriggers will make it more stable. There are some other threads on here about people using those.

Hey I can't find the thread about the outriggers. I never do good with the search engine on here why is that?

Here is that tread on the out riggers

http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1235045372/11#11

Hey did your design work?  Can't I just buy them I seen someone on a thread while back and they looked nice I can't find them now though.

Does the design always have to go over the inside of the boat?  Can't it just mout to either side?

I haven't started my project yet. I stumbled across some old shelf brackets in the garage. These are heavy duty jobs. I'm thinking of bolting one side to the side of the boat and then driiling a hole through the overhang and extending threaded rods down. The PVC outrigger will be attached to the threaded rod. I should be working on that next week.

Pardon my crappy photoshop skills.  

Do you think the PVC will be boyant enough to support the boats.  I was thinking about using boat fenders for docks.

Pvc with caps in both ends will float just like bobbers.

o really so what will you use a T price to connect it to the brace that goes to the vessel?  What size sould the pvc be that hits the water?

Do you think the PVC will be boyant enough to support the boats. I was thinking about using boat fenders for docks.

I'll be sealing the bolt holes in the PVC with rubber washers and silicone (3M 5200).  Then glue caps on the end and I'll have a 5 foot long, 4" in diameter chamber on each side.  I intend to use wing nuts to tighten down the rods on the top of the brackets.  That way I can remove the outriggers when trailering the boat to and from the lake and only have the brackets sticking out.  

O I see when you are done can you post some pics so I can see?

I should be working on it during the week next week.  I'll post up pictures though I probably won't lake test it till the weekend of the 21-22.  I'm sure there will be some adjustments on the height above the water of the outriggers.  Once I get those set, I'll locktight or JB weld the lower stop nut, where it attaches to the bottom of the hanger.  

What about what that guy said about having it adjustable for weight changes is that important to have?  Say you set it at 2'' off the water would that be good?  Do you need it to touch the water at all times?

I'm gonna used some 8 to 14 diameter tubes and mod the H_LL out of my little 1432

I'm Borad

http://www.womenhunters.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=1381:building-pontoons-stabilize-bowfishing-boat&catid=82:tips-misc&Itemid=126

Building Pontoons to Stabilize a Bowfishing Boat       PDF       Print       E-mail

Written by Kathleen Kalina

Sunday, 26 July 2009 15:08

Bow fishing with three or more people who are walking and shooting can cause the boat to become tippy especially if you don't have a 6ft wide jon boat. There are several solutions to this problem and all require building some sort of outrigger to increase buoyancy. Pontoons can be made by using 6 inch PVC pipe. Some people attach it directly to the side of their boat so it's permanent. Installing pontoons to hang from the bowfishing platform makes it easier to remove if the boat is going to be used for other activities.

The photo shows one of the pontoons after it's attached to the top platform.

Begin the process by taking the five foot PVC pipe and glue the caps on it. It is crucial to use a 6 inch diameter PVC pipe to achieve appropriate flotation. The pontoons here are 5 ft long each. However, some people use 2 shorter ones on each side. Smaller diameter PVC pipes don't give enough buoyancy.

To glue the caps on the end of the PVC pipe it is necessary to use PVC primer and cement. The primer softens the PVC and makes it moldable to the cement. Primer comes in purple or clear color. I prefer to use clear color so it's not visible. The primer goes on first and then the cement goes on over it. Put the cement on immediately before you are ready to join the pieces.

The cap of the primer has its own brush. Paint the primer on the outside of the pipe and the inside of the cap.

Paint the inside of cap with primer and then cement. A solid seal will create flotation.

After putting primer and cement on, the cap must be put on immediately. Use a hammer to tap it into place.

Spray paint the pontoons before you install them. Start with brown and then use khaki or other light camouflage.

Cut a 6-7inch muffler clamp and attach it to a 1x4 board. Drill a hole in the clamp and screw the parts to the board. This is the only way to keep the clamp from slipping off the board and having a firm hold on PVC pipe.

Attach the clamp and board to the bottom of the flange to the pipe that connects to the platform.

Attach one end of pontoon inside of clamp and screw it together. Note that the wood is narrower on the end towards the cap since the cap edge is higher than the pipe. The wider edge of wood may be used for other braces if needed.

The top of the pipe that holds the pontoon is attached to the platform on the deck of the boat. The pontoon is able to swing out if needed. It can be held in one position with a swivel clamp.

Both pontoons mounted on boat

Finalized paint touch up and the pontoons are ready to adjust with a clamp to the platform.

Once you put the swivel clamp onto the pipe and attach it to the platform, you can adjust the outward swing of the pontoon so it's higher or lower by going wider from the boat. The boat is now safe from being tippy and secure enough to shoot carp from the deck platform.