I was just curios about some of you guys favorite crank baiting setups and situations you go to the setups in !!

Trying to get into using crank baits a little more and just seeing what works best for you guys. I don't have a problem using them its just i am not very effective with them and seem to have a problem with the bigger bass coming unbuttoned often on crank baits

Tallent, please go to the Introduction section and introduce yourself.

And where are you from in Virgnia?

Crankbaits have a nunber of applications for the following:

Water clarity.

Water depth.

Water temperature.

Current.

Lakes.

Tidal Rivers.

Non-Tidal Rivers.

Time of year.

Time of day.

Where are the bass holding?

Cover.

Structure.

Line type and test.

Baitcaster.

Spinning rig.

Type of bill.

Rat-L-Trap cranks.

Chatterbaits.

Hook size.

Hook color.

Rattles?

Silent?

As for colors you have a lot of options depending on the applications.

I could tell you the colors I like and every person on this site can tell you their favorite colors. But that is not going to help you other than have you spend a lot of money on different types and colors of crankbaits.

Go to your favorite tackle store and pruchase 1) shad color; 2) dark color for stained water; 3) Rapala Shad Raps in Shad with black back in size #5 and #7; 4) Chrome with black back Rat-L-Trap; 5) Chrome with blue back Rat-L-Trap; 6) any other cranks the guys suggest.

Check out the Tacklemaking section to view the cranks the guys produce and ask them for suggestions, too.

Just do your homework regarding the variables and then go out and cast your heart out all day long.

When you hook a bass on a crankbait you set the hook with a sweeping motion to the right or left.

Keep line tight. Any amount of slack and they will throw the bait.

Watch out for treble hooks when removing them.

Use a needle nose pliers to remove hooks.

A good "crankin stick" like the BPS carnkin stick is an excellent investment. Pair it up with a Shimano E5 and use 17 pound mono.

Some of the pros who used to preach mono are now using fluoro so go with the one you believe is to your advantage.

Be sure to read the rod's specs and stay within them and balance the rod everytime you change out your baitcater.

Sam basically killed it. Besides the fact 17# line is too heavy IMO it will hurt the maximum diving depth of your crankbaits throw them on 8-12#.

Hookingem, check out the line test KVD uses for cranks.

You will need a lighter line on Claytor Lake and other locations depending on water depth.

Send an email to Woo for his input.

Or ask Logan!!!!!

One of the best crankbait answers I have seen Sam nice job!!!

Sam's number 1 is my favorite!! as far as what causes us to pick up a crank in any given situation is just a lot of time and work on the water, which you will learn I am sure of that, so take Sam up on his advice, Learn all you can and crank your heart out x2.

My favorite time of year to use cranks are the fall months around cover.

i don't catch a heck of a whole lot with cranks but when i do its normally with these set ups. a blueish aruku shad, little john md or dd, xcalibur rattle or one knocker in the foxy shad, or chrome colors, a squarebill bomber A in sexy shad.

i like 10# mono(berkley), or 12# pline flourclear on my 7' carbonlite med/mod action. dont be afraid to get yourself some braid and crash your cranks either(get xps cranks for this they dont run too much), also throw it with at least a 6'6 to 7' MH.

you might want to also load up on flat cranks for fall and cold water fishing.

The BPS series or Rapala DT series seem to do pretty well around here. But, be careful the powers of bait monkey are dangerous when buying cranks...........so many options.

one other thing, I like to use a Rapala knot when fishing cranks. I think it frees up the head of the crankbait to "wander," a little more and look better. But, dont tell Sam or Hookingem, I have already shown them enough of my secrets fishing with them.

I personally use 12# line, but copoly. Suffix mono is prett good stuff as well!

thanks wdycrankbait all info is helpful and appreciated thanks to everyone!

In my opinion...... and it is just that...... don't feel too pressured to go too high end on the cranks.

One of my most productive lures of all time is the bomber model A in Tennessee Shad...... I change out the hooks and that thing does the rest. I typically go with a 2-5/8th's and will both go deeper or bounce hard off the bottom in shallower water.

My father caught literally hundreds (maybe over a thousand) lifetime on a bomber model A 2 1/8th model in the baby spotted bass color. I have never had his luck on it, but done ok with it.

I also loose more cranks than any other lure..... so price can be a factor. Now you would find a solid handful of lucky craft, bandit, and norman brand cranks in my box (been getting a lot more heavy on the lucky craft ones) but I still love my Bomber model A's.

When it comes to lipless, I have a few brands, but the rattle trap is the one for me. In chrome silver black has always been really good. I have lost nearly every red eye shad I have bought..... even with a new lure retriever. Strike King is making a fortune off me, because I have been hell bent on catching one on it...... still no fish, but I can say with certainty there are 4 red eye shads stuck in underwater structure in burke lake alone.

"...still no fish, but I can say with certainty there are 4 red eye shads stuck in underwater structure in burke lake alone."

You can add Lake Anna and Buggs Island to your list, too!!!!