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First Bass Boat


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63 replies to this topic

#31 Fishing Rhino

Fishing Rhino

    I practice catch and release. You can only eat them once.

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Posted February 06 2012 - 04:47 PM

It's a two part system. The one I am familiar with is West System epoxy. It's usually a bit thicker than polyester resin and takes a bit more effort to wet out the mat or roving. But, it is waterproof and has a much stronger bond. It is also more expensive, but worth it for certain applications. It used to be Gougeon Brothers West System Epoxy. It was on all their containers. It seems they manufacture the West System products but have taken their name off the product. ??????

When you open the first URL, click on repairing your fiberglass boat. There are several articles, some of which might be helpful for you. It will tell you specifically which product to use for different jobs.

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/

http://gougeon.com/
Regards, Tom

#32 Shawn Dompierre

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Posted February 06 2012 - 06:13 PM

Well Thanks for the advice, I'll consider the epoxy route, I'll update whenever I get some work done.
Cheers.
ShawnD

#33 Fishing Rhino

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Posted February 06 2012 - 07:16 PM

The chances are that fiberglass resin would do the job satisfactorily. But, you are doing a lot of work, tedious, messy, somtimes itchy work. You're not talking a lot of epoxy to repair/fill those holes. It would be mighty disappointing to go through all that, and then have a minor repair fail, particularly when you will not be able to get to both sides to effect repairs.
Regards, Tom

#34 Shawn Dompierre

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Posted February 06 2012 - 08:25 PM

But I will be making repairs on both sides.

#35 Shawn Dompierre

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Posted February 07 2012 - 03:07 PM

Turns out I will be buying epoxy, I found a dealer of the west system and they're having a 15% off sale next Thursday, I'll pick some up because I'll be fixing other parts of the boat with it as well.

#36 Fishing Rhino

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Posted February 07 2012 - 07:31 PM

Great! Do it according to the instructions and you'll never regret it.

I'll give you another tidbit of advice. When you start mounting anything on your boat, and you want to make a slick installation, say a Ram mount for a sonar, put a bead of silicone on the base of the mount about a 1/4" in diameter, barely inside the edge. Then, carefully put the base in place and tighten the fasteners just enough so the silicone starts to bulge. Stop there, and using your finger, run it around the base of the mount. You'll be left with a nice, tidy, small cove of silicone. Let it sit for 24 hours, or more, depending on the temperature. Once it sets up, you can snug it down. It will not ooze out. What you have done is created a silicone spacer which will allow the base to sit nicely on a slightly less than flat surface.

I used white on this install. Had it been a different color I could have used clear, but most likely would have used black because it would match the base.

Posted Image

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I also used it on the antenna mount for the satellite receiver.

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Regards, Tom

#37 Shawn Dompierre

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Posted February 08 2012 - 05:28 PM

Thanks for the tip,
The Epoxy resin is meant for my stringers, remember how fragile you said they could be?
I was talking to a friend and to eliminate air and any play of any kind, what I'll do is create small hole every 12" maybe 16" and get either a pump or using a spout and fill all the gaps (if there are any) with the epoxy resin.

#38 Fishing Rhino

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Posted February 08 2012 - 08:31 PM

Keep in mind. The wood is for the purpose of forming a fiberglass beam. A common practice is to use foam in place of the wood. If the wood is rough, consider using bondo to fill irregularities before you encase them in glass. You won't have to worry about air pockets.

For epoxy, you might find it easier to coat the stringer with epoxy. Then apply the material. It's easier to force the resin through to the surface than to apply the material and work the resin into and through it.

I'm assuming you have an assortment of "bubble busters". They are grooved rollers, and do a great job of working out trapped air. In the image below, those at the top right are barrel rollers named that because of their shape. They are best for working concave surfaces. The mid sized is what we use.

We also have the long roller of the three at the top left. The smaller diameter rollers are good for working in corners. Be sure to clean all rollers in acetone before the resin on them starts to cure.

Posted Image
Regards, Tom

#39 Shawn Dompierre

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Posted February 13 2012 - 07:56 AM

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I'm redoing the stringers. Doing the same job twice really does hurt the ego, but I want to do this right, Epoxy resin will be used this time around, this Wednesday, A marine store is having a sale and I'll be getting my supplies.
Ps: I've Moved and removed the cap by hand ;) with a helper of course! But I didn't need a cherry picker.
Shawn.D

#40 Shawn Dompierre

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Posted February 28 2012 - 09:47 AM

Hi everyone,
Time for a update.

Before:

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Half way:

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As of last night:

Posted Image

#41 Stingray23

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Posted February 28 2012 - 04:23 PM

Thanks for the update. Nice job

#42 Shawn Dompierre

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Posted March 05 2012 - 06:34 AM

Another Update, this weekend was my birthday, while I had everyone over for a drink I casually made my way to the garage and showed everyone the work I did, then I said "hey, while were here why don't I get you guys to help me put the top back on??" I laughed when the faces changed (every body was in a partying mood not a "lets help shawn out" ..
It being my birthday they couldn't say no, it took 6 of us to get it back on and later this week I will be securing it.
Any advice on this? I'll be redrilling my holes for the rivets and then inserting a bead of clear silicone inside the crack.

pics for clicks and maybe comments??

Posted Image
Posted Image

Cheers!

#43 Bass Dude

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    Stick 'Em Hard and Stick 'Em Often

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Posted March 05 2012 - 12:05 PM

I'm not trying to put a damper on your project, but in the long run, is the price really worth it when all is said and done. The time, the money for repairs and parts...isn't it cheaper in the long run to buy something in better shape??


I think it's great that you have the knowledge and the capability to take on this project, as I have neither, but it seems to me that it would be easier and possibly safer to buy something in better shape.



Good luck with it, and can't wait to see the finished product.

#44 Shawn Dompierre

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Posted March 05 2012 - 04:24 PM

It may or may not..
My reasons for continuing with this boat (after looking at the pro's and con's)

-Its much more common for you guys to have old boat simply because you've got so many company's making them.. a 500$ boat for you guys is 1000$ to 2000$ here. Not too mention my province still has that mentality of bass not being a species worth catching.>> Therefor bass boats aren't very common for the budget conscious person.

Quitting half way isn't an option because you end up cheating someone else by selling it or losing all your money and sending it to the dump.. Ending up with nothing..

At this moment I've put in 1000$ into the boat, I'm fortunate enough to not have to pay for my paint job so basically I have seats and carpet to buy.
Believe you me, if it was summer I would've ditched the boat a long time ago. I don't do winter sports and I've got the patience for this. In the future I would see me doing a transom repair or a stringer repair but not a carpet/paint/stringers/transom/glass/seats/seat posts overhaul..
As for the safer comment.. This thing is solid as a rock.. Compared to what it was (even the good parts of the stringers..)
Hope that answers your question.

#45 Bass Dude

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Posted March 06 2012 - 09:14 AM

I hope I didn't offend you on my comments, I had a friend try to do this same thing and he ended up spending so much money that he could have bought something he didn't have to fix up. I respect that you can take this on and do it successfully.

I think it also shows what we crazy bass guys will do to get out on the water!!!


Again, I can't wait to see the finished product!!




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