vintagerod

I noticed St. Croix now makes a line of Crankbait rods in their Avid series. I think the equivalent to the AC66MF would be their AVC66MM. I'm wondering if this new rod would be the "ideal" treble hook rod. It seems very tempting...

I love this forum!! This is why I spend my time here and not Tackle Tour. I learned a lot from the discussions, and there were some excellent points made. Thank you! And many thanks to Road Warrior. His comments helped me focus on what's truly important. The logic of one rod for single hook lures and one rod for trebles is quite appealing. Fishing is a simple pleasure. Perhaps, at least for me, various rods for various techniques only complicates this sublime simplicity. Spending time using a variety of lures and techniques on your favorite rod and reel combo seems like an excellent way to learn the nuances of the sport.

What are your thoughts on this? It seems to me that for topwaters, spinnerbaits, buzz baits, crankbaits, and jerk baits, that it doesn't make sense to pay big money for ultra sensitive rod blanks, since the way you fish these baits (or more importantly, the way bass hit these baits), sensitivity isn't an issue. I ask because I am in the market for a nice rod to use for a variety of these techniques. As I was looking through G. Loomis' line, I noticed that super sensitive IMX or GLX isn't offered in the Spinnerbait or Crankbait line (and they are MUCH cheaper, too). Now, for worms and jigs, sensitivity is a big concern. Any thoughts on this?

Does anybody have or know anything about the Lamiglas Competitor series' rods? MSRP (from Lamiglas' website) is $112. Retailers sell the rod for $85-$90. Yet there is an eBay retailer (Richards Supply) that routinely sells these rods BRAND NEW for $35. What is really odd is that the models they offer do not appear on Lamiglas' website (the CC 665 and the CC 603), unless they are New Old Stock or something. The CC685 seems like a great spinnerbait rod (MH power, 6'-6" long, fast action) or even a good "all-around" rod. Any thoughts?

Any recommendations on a spinning reel and type of line for a good walleye setup? I am looking for ANY reel (New or Used/Vintage but in excellent condition) that can be had for under $100... Here is the rod I will mate the reel to: Make/Model: 1986 Fenwick Hooksetter 100% Graphite HSS 726 Type: 1-piece Spinning Length: 6' Power: 6 (Medium Heavy) Line: 8-20 lb Lure: 1/4-3/4 Thanks kindly.

I hear you, especially given the fact you can pick up Revo S's for less than $80 NIB on eBay. But now that a few people have had the chance to try the Exceler, I'm wondering if, dollar for dollar, Daiwa has upped the ante.

Can't wait to hear your impressions, Jeff H. Good luck...hope you can find one in stock

Does anybody have any experience with these reels? I haven't tried one yet, but on paper, the stats are quite impressive. Check out how the Exceler compares to three highly regarded $100 reels: Citica 200D: 4+1 bearings, 9.9 oz, 150 yds of 12 lb, 6.2:1 ratio Revo S: 8+1 bearings, 8.6 oz, 140 yds of 12 lb, 6.4:1 ratio Trion: 5+1 bearings, 8.9 oz, 160 yds of 12 lb, 6.3:1 ratio Exceler: 8+1 bearings, 8.8 oz, 150 yds of 12 lb, 6.3:1 ratio What is truly exceptional is that the Exceler is only $70!! Thoughts?

I know it sounds crazy today, but apparently 20 years ago it wasn't. I have a 1986 Fenwick Hooksetter Graphite Spinning Rod...their tournament grade, top of the line spinning rod aimed at Bass fisherman (even has a graphic of a largemouth bass on the blank). And it just happens to be a Medium-Heavy / Heavy rod. Kind of quirky, I suppose, but it is rated for 14-17 lb line (actually, it is rated for up to 20 lb line). Very high for a bass spinning rod by today's standards. I thought the same thing, why would anyone build a bass spinning rod for 20 lb test line? Then I watched Kevin van Damm's video on spinnerbait fishing, and he said he typically uses 17 lb. line...and sometimes 20 lb. when fishing spinnerbaits. And during the video, he's alternating between casting and spinning equipment. Apparently, 17 lb mono for a spinning rod is preferred by some people. Since I have this MH/H rod, I'd like to put it to use. But my problem is the vast majority of today's freshwater spinning reels really seem to be made for 10 lb and lighter. Spinning reels that are equipped for 14-17 lb mono are more "saltwater" in class, and are freakin' heavy at 17-20 oz. Why did Fenwick make a tournament grade bass spinning rod in a Medium-Heavy / Heavy power? I don't know...but they did and I have one, and by golly, I'm gonna give it a dance!

And as I am researching some of these suggestions, I might add that "small, 20 lb test, and affordable cost, don't go together very well." Holy moly, the Shimano Sustain and Stella, and the Daiwa Steez and Fuego sure look like great reels, but man are they pricey. I remember (doesn't seem that long ago), that top of the line baitcasters were $120, and you could have the best of the best spinning reels for a fraction of that cost. I didn't think I would ever see a smallish freshwater spinning reel for over $200. Yowsa! The Plueger Supreme sure is a pretty reel, but even that, at $100, is a wee bit out of my range. The Presidents are more like it, but I think they may be a bit too light for 14-17 lb. mono. What about older reels? That Okuma Metaloid seems like a great deal. I found a place on eBay that sells the MD 30 for $40 new. Kinda heavy at 11.5 oz, but TackleTour rated them a "Best Value" back in 2002. Any other top-notch reels that may be a bit older (and hopefully cheaper)?

Anyone have a recommendation on a small, lightweight spinning reel that is capable of handling heavier line and lures (and bass)? I just procured a nice vintage fenwick "hooksetter" spinning rod, 6-feet long, one-piece, rated for up to 20 lb. line and 3/4 oz. lures I think I might use it for a variety of lures, though I just watched a Kevin van Damm video on spinnerbaits, and he uses 3/4 oz. baits with 17-20 lb. line. He swears by this bigger stuff, and I know he is a well respected spinnerbait guy, so I thought I'd give it a shot. Seems like spinning reels are better for skipping those spinners under docks and low tree canopies.

Thanks Flechero. This helps a lot.

Does anybody know anyone skilled (and interested) in restoring a couple of 20-year old rods in the Quad Cities area? Things like rewrapping a guide with the original (or darn close to) material and color, restoring the blank's luster, replacing old and stained grips with OEM (or very similar). I have a couple of rods in my collection that are in really good shape, that I would like to 'retire', but would like to give them a cosmetic face-lift. Thank you kindly.

Thank you Sam, I really appreciate those technique specific recommendations. And thanks for the link, Cigarlover. You're right, at $7.50, if I get one or two great tips out of that 3 DVD set it is worth it! Hard to beat that price

I am just getting back into bass fishing after a 20-year hiatus. I have been reading different forums and an occasional magazine article, but I am looking for really good instructional videos on a variety of topics. Like most of my hobbies, none of my friends or family are into the same things I am. So, I have nobody to teach me new tricks. I am looking for (if it exists) a comprehensive DVD, or perhaps a 3-pack of videos solely on bass fishing, that explains (actually shows) all the different techniques. For example: pitching and flipping, how to fish plastics, when and where, and what colors to use How to select spinnerbaits and buzzbaits (skirt colors, blade colors, one blade vs. two, colorado vs. willow, etc.) How to 'walk the dog' with top waters and jerk baits How to crash crankbaits When to use crankbaits vs. spinners vs. jerkbaits vs. topwaters What techniques are best for spinning gear and which are best for casting I do not want to buy an entire library of DVDs, but up to three that will cover the basics and introduce some advanced techniques outlined above. Any recommendations?

I agree to a point. For example, I wonder just how much "better" the Boyd Duckett Series will be over the baseline LTX. According to e21's website, the Boyd Duckett differs from the LTX with: Better Guides a different grip Gold anodized butt cap And you pay $100 more for those niceties. So, bang-for-the-buck, will the Boyd Duckett deliver? My guess is the cheaper LTX would provide a better value.

Alright, time to stir things up . I came across this idea when I purchased a brand new G. Loomis CR722C GL2 rod for $75 ($125 at Cabela's), and a brand new Lamiglas Competitor CC-665 rod for $37 ($90 from various retailers). I started to think, dollar-for-dollar, what is the best rod out there? e21's Carrot Stix arguably provides the lightest, most sensitive, most technologically advanced rod on the market today in the $150 price range. Some people on this forum have compared Carrot Stix to Steez...at a difference of about $300. So what say you? Is e21's baseline Carrot Stix the best deal out there? This post is not about "what is the best rod out there, period". This is about Quality-to-Price ratios...from Cabela's Fish Eagle II rod ($15) to Daiwa's Steez ($499). In other words, dollar-for-dollar, what rod delivers the most bang-for-the-buck?

Good catch, Avid. Yes, it should have read CR722C.

Thanks KMS and RoadWarrior. The idea of setting brakes once and never (or hardly ever) having to deal with them again is appealing. I did exactly what you said, so I have 3 pins locked and 3 unlocked (alternating). Muddy, I replied to your PM. Thank you!

These suggestions provide great direction...thanks! Just curious, does anybody use Stren anymore? When I was last into fishing (about 20 years ago), Stren was my favorite. Is Stren really just old technology now and the "newer" names (well, names I don't remember back then like P-Line, Yo-Zuri, Suffix) superior?

Wow! It's like I just discovered buried treasure ! I wonder how long it would have taken me, without an owner's manual, to figure out that the entire side plate comes off! I've always been used to those knurled finger screws. Many thanks to you, Grimlin and Islandbass!! I did have one helluva time trying to unlock 3 pins, though. Each hat came completely off the pin, as you said islandbass. One hat flew onto the floor and I thought I lost it for good. Then, when I had to put them back on, the 'brim' of the 'hat' became distorted as I pushed it past the brake shoe. Do pins work better than magnets, in your guys' opinion? This system seems really delicate/fragile to me, not to mention cumbersome, and potentially hazardous if your are out in a boat. I can just see one of the little hats flying off into the water, or my buddy stepping on my sideplate as I'm trying to unseat these hats. I think I prefer simply turning a dial on the outside. That way, if my setting is wrong, I can readjust within one second, not having to open the reel. But since I've never experienced pin centrifugal brakes, maybe I'm premature in my judgments. What do the high-end reels use? And maybe I am not using these properly. I used to change my settings on my old Shimano reels based on whatever lure I used and wind conditions. If I went from a 3/8 spinner bait to a 3/4 oz. top water, I made my "rough" adjustment using the cast control knob and then "fine tuned" using the magentic dial. Do most people change the setting once and leave it alone?

Sorry Dodgeguy, I don't mean to be dense, but I am still confused. So are there only two positions (lock and unlock)? I don't understand "pins are out and working". For a Shimano (I'm used to the older Magnumlites), I can dial in brake assistance at 10, 40, or crank it all the way to 100. With each click, the weights/magnets/pins/whatever move closer to / further from the spool. I guess the lack of markings is what I really find confusing, that and any absence of a 'click' when I turn the dial and this thing I have to push in, and this business of lock and unlock.

I just purchased a Trion baitcasing reel on eBay, and can't figure out what I assume is the centrifugal brake system. It didn't come with an owner's manual, and Pflueger's website doesn't have any information or down-loadable product support. It appears there are only two positions, labeled 'lock' and 'unlock'. This is not like any other labeling I'm familiar with (I'm recalling Shimano reels, which have a micro-click system from 0 to 100). Can anyone familiar with these reels help me figure this out? What is being "locked" and "unlocked"?

I just received a Pflueger Trion baitcaster (a very pretty reel for $100) that I will mate to my GLoomis CR772C (6'-0" long, GL2 graphite, 8-14 lb. test, 1/4-5/8 oz. lure, fast action, medium power). The GLoomis website refers to this rod as one of the most versatile, which I why I thought I would give it a try. I'm just getting back into fishing, and this is my only setup. I have lots of lures, ready to go, except no line. My question...what make/model and size line would you recommend for spooling this reel? I will be throwing buzz-baits and spinners, crankbaits, topwaters (Heddon stuff, like a lucky-13 and a zara spook), weightless worms (5" Yamasenkos, Texas and Wacky rigged), and an occasional jigs. The lakes I fish are man-made, rather small, with lots of rip-rap that line the shores, an occasional lay-down, concrete building foundations on the bottom (these are Army Corps projects). Not much vegetation...some really fine, slimy, algae-like stuff on the bottom in some areas. Water is moderately stained (visibility of lure perhaps 9-10" below). Suggestions?

Oooohhhh.....I've been ogling those Carrot Stix for a couple of weeks now , but couldn't justify buying another rod just based on whizz-bang technology and in-your-face aesthetics. BUT...you say they are excellent crank rods, eh? I didn't think about that. Hmmm....lemme see here, "Honey, I need a new crank rod" "Well O.k., but no more rods after this" "Sure thing honey bunch" ...fade in...e21 Carrot Stix. Lust building. Drool emanating from the left corner of my mouth. Fantasy of me catchin' biggun's on my favorite lake. Fantasy interrupted...wife's voice...ear splitting shrillness..."NO MORE RODS!!!" Uh, right honey. But wait!! I can buy ONE rod. And I "need" a crank rod. Avids? Premiers? Cara Reactions? Outlaws? Never heard of 'em, but perhaps...Whoa...Carrot Stix? So, I may be able to indulge in a bit of wanton lust and still fulfill a dire need with the same rod!! I am assuming, Redline, that the model that is best for crankin' is the 6'-9" LTX with parabolic action? I see they have a 7-footer with a fast action, but that doesn't seem to be, in my inexperienced opinion, the best for crank baits. But I am impressed with a 4-16 lb. line rating!!