retiredbosn

IMO if you are talking longevity, has to be Abu Garcia round reels. Built like tanks, almost as heavy, but they flat out last.

Why? The star adjustment is right there at the handle, unless you have an older lever drag.

Absolutely, how about shipping one to me? lol

You can get a Lews Speed Spool on Ebay NIB for 79 (msrp 99) bucks. I think that is a great deal. You can also get Quantum Energy PT's NIB 99 (msrp 179), Catalysts 79 (salt water version msrp 149), it takes some searching but they are there. NIB Curado G's 139(msrp 159), NIB Citica 99 (msrp 129), Gen 2 Revo 89 NIB (msrp 129). All of these are great deals, and no I won't provide the link for the Speed Spool until I've purchased mine, lol. Hint the listing says 99 obo, read the description it reads 79. Another reel that is intriguing on paper is the 2013 Bionic by BPS 79.99, aluminum frame, 7 bearing, dual brake (both cent), has equal or better features than the PQ, will probably pick one up during the Spring sale. BTW I recommended these based on your budget, and also what brands I've actually handled/fished with, with the exception of the Speed Spool (handled never fished) and Bionic (never seen or handled one but have 3 PQ'S). FWIW the only place I would buy a used reel is this site's flea market. Messed up with the Lews model, edited to correct model.

I agree we need a price point to look at. The BPS Pro Qualifier is a great 100 dollar reel, even better at 80. The most I've ever paid for a reel is 160 for a nib Curado E. So I can not give any suggestions past that price.

Bassninja uses these rods and really likes them. Maybe he'll show up and let you know his experiences.

Umm not completely sure, many ppl who have drilled out spools just run the mono through one of the little holes and spool it up. The drag works because the mono builds up friction and the drag slips without any force ever being applied to the end of the line where it is just held by tension. The braid will slip against its self and will slip long before the force ever gets to the knot holding the line to the spool, there have been several post about this in the past. I can not say with absolute certainty as I always put on mono backing. And I'm sure it depends how tight you have your drag set. from the power pro website concerning baitcasting reels PowerPro Braided Line.Spooling your Reel All braided lines need to be spooled in a specific manner. Because of PowerPro's incredibly thin diameter and limited stretch, it is very important that your PowerPro line is packed tightly on your reel. When a braided line is first put onto your reel, ideally you should place a small piece of arbor tape (or electrical tape) onto the spool itself. The tape prevents the spool from slipping underneath your line. (TIP: If you do not use a few wraps of monofilament or tape as backing, the PowerPro will actually slip on the spool giving you the illusion that the reel has no drag.) Once the tape is in place, wrap your PowerPro around the spool 2-4 times. Next tie a "uni" knot and tighten around the spool. When braided line is being wound onto the reel, be sure to add pressure to your spool of PowerPro to guarantee that the line is being packed tightly. Once you are finished spooling up your reel, use your thumb to press down on the line on your spool. If it feels soft, you may need to re-spool your line and apply more pressure. However, if you press down and the line feels hard, then your line is packed tightly on the spool and you are ready to go fishing!

Don't forget to use mono as a backer, you can not fill any reel completely with just braid. The reason is that braid slips and must have a backer for the drag to work properly.

I use Berkley duo some of the time I remove the split ring, no rhyme or reason too when I do or don't. Leaving the ring does change the action as it adds another pivot point, whether or not it matters is a different story. I personally don't like the Norman speed clips, especially with a wide wobble bait, seems that the crank will catch on the end of the split and start working itself off, this only occurs if I've removed the split ring.

I've had both, the difference is size, and ultimately come down to which one you like the feel of the best. Personally I would go with the 4600 lighter, narrower and fits my hand. Treat it well and it will last a lifetime.

I have used the old quantum torsions and harmonics, these are similar. Which power are u looking at. Remember these rod's listed action are not action but power ratings. Have you actually handled one? From my experience with these low end rods, a medium has a moderate to moderate fast actions, good for cranks but not for soft plastics. The MH will have an action closer to fast which will be good for spinnerbaits and soft plastics. Hopefully someone will have real world experience with one, but I doubt it.

A rod under forty? Up until I found this forum and was infected with the bait monkey virus, I was blissfully ignorant of expensive equipment, I got by with Walmart specials, lol. My first "expensive" reel was a pinnacle platinum plus, my how things have changed! Growing up reel maintenance consisted of dunking my reel in the river when it got gritty. I knew nothing, I caught allot of smallies 14" was a giant and redeyes. I also lost allot of fish, I didn't have the equipment to handle anything above a panfish. When I started taking fishing seriously and stated spending more my eyes were opened. I could feel the bottom, tell the difference between wood rock mud vegetation. I started catching bigger fish, I had the equipment to handle it. My point is I was ignorant, to have a quality rod you will have to spend more. Anyway back to your question, if you are near a academy, you can get a rod all graphite for as little as 10 bucks on sale. If Walmart is what you have to deal with the Shakespeare Durango is all graphite exposed reel seat for around 20, these are cheap rods that have rod blanks that go all the way to the butt of the rod. Dick's has the Berkley Amp, they all have the Berkley Shock I think these will run around 40. I wouldn't classify any as a good rod but they'll do. What you want to look for is all graphite, blanks that are exposed at the reel seat. Typically on cheap rods, if the blank isn't exposed at the seat, the blank doesn't extend to the butt of the rod. If you can spend 60 then you can start getting decent rods, the Convergence line from Shimano comes to mind. Decent sensitivity and life time warranty. Sellus are less expensive around 50, Walmart carries some Abu's around 50 Vendetta maybe. Good luck

I didn't like the high speed and switched the gears out, fits my style better, lol Took it from a 7.1:1 to a 4.6:1

Wow 33 ipt, that 8.0:1 is a screamer. The 7.1:1 brings in 29 on the STX, the Chronarch 7.1:1 brings in 30, and the Lews 7.1:1 brings in 31. I have no idea how measurable of a difference that is. I know my only burner reel now has 4.6:1 gears, I didn't see an appreciable difference in the retrieve speedwise in the line of reesl it came out of and changed it to another cranking reel.

I personally do not like burner reels, anything over 28 ipt with a 6.5:1 like Abu makes. In answer to your question about harder to crank, yes. To achieve the speed you give up torque, just as a car with a 411 rear end makes more torque than one with a 372 rear end. It has the same horsepower yes, and same torque at the engine, but where the rubber meets the road, no. I want the torque to move the fish out of cover, others want the speed, and in the fishing world we aren't talking about a huge amount of difference in amount of force required. Most people think that the reason crankin reels are low geared and have low ipt is to make the deep divers run true, while this is correct to a point it is as much about angler comfort. If you don't believe this take your crankin set up and a jig set up with a burner to the lake with a DD22, you will exert more force at the handle to crank the DD22 with the high geared reel than you will with a low gear reel even if you reel slow to offset the ipt. The low gear reels are made to move baits, fish etc with less force by the angler. I'm not talking drag, or anything like that, just the amount of force you apply. You can have a 7.1:1 and a 4.7:1 geared reels that both have the same ipt, it will require less effort to rotate the handle on the low geared than the 7.1:1. The same reason applies with the longer handles, cranking reels typically have a longer handle, again for the torque. What you can do to offset the torque issue is to add a longer handle to the reel. There are reels out there that are low geared and take in alot of line, the C3 by Abu has a 5.3:1 gear but takes in 25ipt, the C4 has a 6.4:1 and takes in 30ipt, here you can move both a large amount of line without sacrificing the torque required

I think that they were very fair, more than they were legally liable for. I doubt seriously if someone left a cell phone or GPS unit hooked up in a vehicle that Verizon or Garmin would replace the car should it short out and cause a fire.

I do the same thing with regular spinnerbaits, remove the skirt and put a swimming fluke on it, at times it works great.

here is a copy of the email they sent me today. hope this helps Hello Todd, We still produce the Smoke, Green and Clear color in the 600 yard spools up to 40# test. Most Sports Authority stores carry them in Smoke & Green. Or you can try on line at Tackle Direct.com Good Fishing Team Yo-Zuri

Does anyone have one. This year the BBlade reel gets an aluminum frame, 6 bearings, dual braking system, and a paint job to make it a Revo S clone. I really like the Pro Qualifier, but the blades now have near equal specs. Just has me thinking when the Spring Classic sale comes around these should be a sweet deal. BPS will have to revamp the PQ soon, as the lower end reels now have the same or better specs. http://www.basspro.com/Bass-Pro-Shops-Bionic-Plus-Baitcast-Reels/product/1207260456523/

I know that Abu recommends a little oil on the drum. Idk for sure but assume it had to do with the pitch brake system, when engaged these pads remain in contact with the drum for the entire cast.

Read a Dean Rojas article (Day at the Lake, Bass Masters). His advise was that when the bugs are flying and you could hear/see bluegill feeding on them, was the ideal time

Hilarious, and LMG hasn't rebutted

I'm in the minority, but I use a 7MHMF, also use it for cranking. The reel is a 21 ipt, this is for anything over 3/8 to an ounce. Smaller I use a 7MMF with a reel that is 25ipt. I don't like fast or extra fast tips I end up pulling the lure out of the fish's mouth

I really like my Abu reels, I don't own a Gen 3, but every Abu I've owned needs more spool tension than my other reels. I guess they free spool easier, anyway every year I start with the tension knob set to the point where the lure will barely start to fall.

It looks almost exactly like the old BPS David Friits cranking reel. I had one, it would cast a mile. The BB1 in the 5.1:1 has a dual pawl type anti reverse, basically the handle will slip back about 1/8 turn and catch. Fritts says that this feature is essential to feeling the crankbait.