the crab

Just run the fish finder wires to the trolling motor battery. You're talking about a jon boat right?

00 mod...where did you get the clips that hold the rod handles?

I'm thinking that boat is rated for a 150 also. I don't think I'd be happy with it having a 125.

So is that a "No" then?

My boat is an 07 and it came from the dealer with an 06 engine.

My friend makes all of the senkos we use, and he has mentioned that he'd like to sell them. I would never use any off brand senkos because they were never as good, but his are the real deal. They're just as soft, and sink exactly the same. He makes 4", 5", and slim 5". I'm pretty sure he said $5 per dozen. Let me know if you want me to see if he'll make them for you.

Should be a good motor. I have the 9.9 version. It is basically a Mercury like was previously said, based on the Force engines which Mercury bought out. Parts are still available new and there's also plenty of used parts on ebay. I think it's a 1992 model based on the model number. You can go to www.searspartsdirect.com and enter that model number on the "model number search" tab and pull up the parts diagrams.

You need to do it from the bottom up just like on you other motor. The pump I have costs $2.99 and it screws onto the oil bottle. They also sell the gear lube in a bottle that will screw in the bottom hole. It's kind of like a big tube of tooth paste. Just don't try to pour it in. It's filled from the bottom up for a reason. Doing it any other way will cause it to be only partially filled and turn your motor into an anchor.

To me it looks like a regular, non-florida strain largemouth. Out of curiosity....why are you hiding your face? You on the run? Or in the witness protection program? BTW, were you wearing a jockey helmet in the pic? I think I seen a chin strap. Just teasing with ya.

Have you ever seen the velcro type things that come with an easy pass to mount them on your windshield? You might have to order them online but I think it would be worth it if you don't want to drill you boat. Instead of having one side fuzzy, both sides are semi-rigid plastic. They sorta fit together like a lego piece. They're made by 3m. Glad I could help.

Look in the auto section at wally world. They normally have something made for a car or truck that could be adapted, and much less than $12.

C'mon now....we're talking about a jon boat. I hardly think being in the back yard will cause it catastrophic damage.

You're not burning the gas out of the carbs at the end of each outing are you? My cousin thought this was a good idea despite my warning and now his boat has been in the shop all season. The oil pump keeps pumping oil after the gas is exhausted and fouls the plugs, making for hard or impossible starting.

I can say that I bought a new tracker 175txw a few years ago and have many times regretted it. For the same amount I could have bought a much nicer rig used. If I had it to do over again I would look for something in the 8-12k range with a 150.

Stretch and cut slowly with scissors. As each individual strand gets cut it separates from the group when it snaps back.

Is there a way to see who all has entered? Thanks.

RTV will definitely work and work well. If you don't mind paying for the stuff it's hard to beat short of aluminum. If the Durhams putty you're talking about is Rock Hard Water Putty then you can forget about pouring molten lead into it....trust me.

I've never used RTV but it is expensive. I've used fiberglass resin with mixed results. Most probably wont agree, but for me regular automotive bondo works the best. It can be a little tricky but over all I've gotten the best results with it.

The time will come that the initial investment pays for itself, but that's only if you stay with it for a long time. I don't think anybody does it just to save money. I do it because to me making rods and tackle is almost as fun as catching fish.

Google "wacky rigged senko", and "shakey head".

I personally prefer the spot remover jig heads with barb instead of coil. I used to buy these for almost a dollar each but I've gotten a little wiser and started pouring my own. I use the 1/8 oz and 4" worms. If I do go to a bigger bait the coil isn't too bad, but for worms in general I like the barb. The only time I prefer the coil is if I'm rigging it with a beaver or creature type bait, but then I'm using an all together different head. For this I like the do-it stand up jig head with coil. Just my .02.

That's a real nice job for your first attempt. Walmart sells "Folk Art Paint" for about $1 a bottle if memory serves. It can be thinned a little bit with water and sprayed with an airbrush. I remember someone a while back using that paint and they turned out some extra nice looking baits.

I didn't find it too difficult. It was easier than my first build. On my first build I wrapped by hand and rigged up a drying motor with the motor off of a microwave turntable. For this build I had the power wrapper/drying motor. I would suggest for your first build just stick with a single thread color. That's what I did with my first one. I used black and the guides almost look like they have paint over them instead of thread. You can always go back and add some accents later as well.

I don't know how much finish on a blank impacts the performance, but I know it doesn't help it. Any rods I build for myself will be on unfinished blanks, be it MHX or other brands.

Awesome job. You dip your baits in epoxy or brush on?