Fishwhittler

That particular reel should show noticeable improvement in casting after tuning. You might not get a whole lot more distance, but you'll get some and the reel will cast more effortlessly. You'll probably find that you need to use more brakes to control the spool. "Super-tuning" only has to do with polishing critical surfaces inside the reel, not adding upgrade parts. There are drag washer sets available from smoothdrag.com if you want to go that route. Looks like the set for the Revo Toro Winch will set you back $11 or so, plus $.99 shipping. You'll need to email Dawn to make sure which set is for your reel; they have two different sets for the Revo Toro, I guess one for the older model and one for the new model. No clue which is which. Your reel can be tuned as follows: Polishing the spool shaft ends, brake race, inside of the pinion gear, and the drag stack's metal washers. The spool bearings and level-wind bearings should also be flushed and re-lubed with a light reel oil. Normally the level-wind bearings don't have anything to do with casting, but in the case of the Revo Toro the level-wind is synchronized with the spool, not the gear shaft, and the level-wind moves on the cast. You could theoretically polish the metal shield for the level-wind in order to reduce friction as much as possible between the level-wind pawl and the shield. Polishing the metal drag washers will help smooth out the drag even more and may increase power to some degree, though a carbontex drag will do more in both cases. I'm still not sure if polishing the drag gives more or less power. I've heard both arguments and tried both ways myself, and I'm still not sure. Now I do it just to have my drags as smooth as possible.

Hawg Handle = $85 (includes four bearings) Aftermarket spool = Variable depending on the spool; expect to pay at least $90 for a new spool from Japan Tackle. This upgrade is really worth doing only if you plan on throwing light weights with your reel; otherwise it serves little purpose. Spool bearings = ABEC-7 ceramic hybrid bearings from Hawgtech will run you $8 a pop; there's no need to upgrade anything besides the two spool bearings. Will a drag upgrade give you more power? Probably. It depends on the reel and the surface area of the carbontex washers. I've upgraded two Shimano reels with carbontex drags, both Citica 201E's. I also polished the drag surfaces though I'm not positive it made an improvement in power. Anyway, the Citica I still have has an absolutely immovable drag when locked down. As in, if I lock down the drag and hold the spool to prevent it from turning, the handle won't budge. No clue how much drag it's making, though I know it's much more powerful than 10#. I've got several reels that max out at 10# drag, and I can still turn the handles while holding the spool. I'd say the Scorpion 1000XT is a safe bet for increased drag power after a drag washer upgrade, since that's the JDM equivalent of the Curado 50E and the 50E uses the same drag washers as the Citica E. One of these might fit: Tuning parts for ABU reels. If they do, you'll also need the parts to convert your reel to having an infini-spool with a two-part spool shaft. Otherwise, as far as I know there aren't any options apart from machining your own spools.

Yes. New Reel– Abu Garcia – Morrum Zx

I have one of the old, big President WLPL's. The reel is huge and weighs 9.4 ounces (well, weighed; I'm working on that ), but it's quite comfortable to palm for such a large reel. Same with the Supreme LPL; it's not small or light by today's standards, but it's comfortable to palm and because of that you don't really notice the weight.

Very classy-looking. I like the smoother edges than the Revo's have, and the fact that these reels have hinged side plates. Looks like the gearbox is fairly normal-sized. If these new Pflueger's are anything like the old President LP and Supreme LP, they'll be really good.

No, the C3, C4, and Record are getting reworked. Swept handles and drag stars are part of the upgrade: The Record is also jumping to $200 MSRP. The C4 is likely to stay at the $120 price point, so my guess is the Ambassadeur S, SX, and STX will fall in between those two. $140 for the S, $160 for the SX, and $180 for the STX doesn't seem too unlikely.

The two reels mentioned by Mr Swim Jig are not new; the Optimus XiHS is from 2011 or 2010, and the LTE was released last year. So far very few reels from ICAST 2013 are hitting retailers.

Very nice. Methinks you must have a very secure place to store those rigs, and a bombproof rod locker on your boat.

What he said. I personally like a faster reel such as a 7:1 for most applications, but a 6:1 is slightly better all-around than a 7:1 due to its higher torque.

A used Curado E or Chronarch E can probably be found for $150 if you look hard enough. At that price I'd go with the E every time. At the normal prices, ($160 and $200), I'd probably buy the Curado G and upgrade it over time. The G and E series reels are built on different platforms and so you can't really upgrade a Curado G to Curado E standards. The Citica E can be turned into a Curado E for $70 or so. The advantage there is upgrading over time and spreading the cost out, but you're not really going to spend any less than buying a Curado E up front. If you go with a G-series reel, either one can be upgraded quite easily. For the Curado G you have the following basic options: Carbontex drag 4 handle-knob bearings Thorough cleaning and polish of critical surfaces ("Super-tuning") Handle shank Those are the basics. A carbontex drag and a cleaning and tuning will make the most noticeable differences in performance. The drag upgrade will get you better drag durability and a couple extra pounds of power, and the super-tune will give you better casting distance and ease. Less effort during casting means more accuracy. Adding four handle-knob bearings will also make a difference in reel performance, but much less so than a tuning and a carbontex drag. Nevertheless it is an upgrade and will make your reel a little better. Upgrading the handle shank is done for two reasons: Weight savings and/or cosmetics. A lot of guys on BR like the carbon-fiber Hawg Handles (Piscicidal, where are you?). I haven't used them, but they're the only USDM aftermarket carbon-fiber handle that will fit Shimano reels. They're longer than the stock handles (94mm vs 85mm for Shimano handles) and will give more leverage while still saving some weight. The Hawg Handles also come with 4 bearings, so that takes care of that upgrade as well. You can also install upgraded spool bearings for even better casting. However, Shimano's spool bearings are extremely good after a thorough cleaning and re-lube with a light reel oil. The upgrade bearings are an improvement, but I'd recommend you start with having your reel professionally cleaned and tuned and getting a drag upgrade. Those are the two most cost-effective upgrades and will make the most dramatic improvement in your reel. The upgrades for the Citica are the same, plus a few more: Curado handle knobs and a crankshaft bearing. The handle knobs run $10 a pair most places, and a crankshaft bearing is $7 or so. The Citica G also has a different handle shank than the Curado G—a better looking one in my opinion—and can support four bearings. Sarcazmo, doubt if I'll be able to get my claws into a Tatula or Chronarch Ci4+ anytime soon. They're both a bit rich for my blood; $100 is pretty much my ceiling for reels. Still, that Tatula Type R looks so dang good I might have to save my pazoozas and buy one…that 8:1 LH model is calling my name. Already planning out the upgrades I could do to it. Got my eye on a few reels as potential candidates for my next breakdown. I'd like to get inside one of the Okuma low-profile baitcasters, and the Ardent Edge reels look very interesting. Also would like to see a newer Quantum baitcaster and one of the Revo G3s. The Revo's in particular have lately been getting a not-insignificant amount of bad press, and I'd like to take a look inside and find out why. Maybe a Lew's BB1…the list goes on. Revival, glad you like your reel and I've no doubt it will serve you well for a long time. I'm not trying to change any minds with these reel breakdowns, just satisfying my own curiosity and putting the info out there for anyone who's interested. Tight lines, Ben

Beating a dead horse wasn't my intention, though I can see how it might come across that way. There's been lots of talk bashing the Curado G but little concrete evidence to back up either side. Some have said the G "feels" worse…okay, what does that mean? What exactly is different about this reel? I like data in black and white, but there's not been too much of that out there regarding differences between the Curado E and G other than the specs, which only indicate a few less bearings in the G. That's why I posted this, to try to show what the differences actually are. I would strongly recommend that people form their own opinions on any product rather than just go off what someone else says. My opinion may not be someone else's. I'm not trying to force my opinion on anyone—I just put it out there for what it's worth. Tight lines, Ben

The Curado E had a metal brake case (Citica E had plastic), seven bearings instead of five for the Curado G, a metal drag star instead of plastic, and a different spool from the Citica. To upgrade a Citica E to Curado E standards would cost in the neighborhood of $70+, and that's not counting the spool. To upgrade a Citica G to Curado G specs you'd need to spend $40, again not counting the spool. There's a considerable margin of difference. I said that in my opinion, the Curado G isn't worth $30 more than the Citica G. My reasons for forming that opinion are given above. The Curado G is a good reel, just not up to the standard of the E series.

One of the most controversial reels to be released in recent years, the Curado has gotten a lot of bad press. Shimano claimed it was intended to put the Curado back at the Curado name's proper price point. A lot of longtime Shimano fans called it a cheapened piece of junk, hardly fit to be given the Curado name. My own opinion without using one was that it was probably a good reel, just not quite as good as the Curado/Chronarch E. Just recently I was sent a Curado G to clean after it got dunked, and I took notes and pics while I was at it. Here's what I found, along with some conclusions I drew therefrom. Here's what the clutch looked like at first: A few things taken out: Obligatory drag-stack shot: Brake case: Handle shank: Close-up of the drag key washer: Now for the notes: I went into this reel teardown hoping to be impressed, but I came away nonplussed. The Curado G is solid, but I'd rate it below the Citica E in almost everything. The fit and finish is not as smooth as the Citica E. The palm-side plate can be tricky to slide into place—inspection of the frame showed that the holes the hinge shaft slides through don't fit as closely as they might, so there's some lateral play. That's what causes the problems with closing the palm-side plate. Once the side plate is in place the quick-access latch closes just fine. The paint on the Citica E is also smoother and feels better. If you look closely at the second pic from the top, you can see a small dark spot in the upper half of the hole the crankshaft bearing sits in. That's actually a hole that's exposed from the outside when you remove the spool. It won't affect performance, but it's another place where dirt can get inside the reel. Apparently that's normal for these reels. It's not really a problem, but I don't like it. The drag is typical for Shimano. The pic shows it before I cleaned it up; you can see the residue left by the dartanium drag washers. I'm not a fan of dartanium because it leaves that residue and can even cause pitting in the gears if left untended. Still, it's very smooth and provides good power. As Shimano drags go this one is fine. The brake case is plastic. That's normal for the Citica E though the Citica D had a metal brake case, but the Curado/Chronarch E has a metal brake case. You're probably not going to notice any difference in performance between the two, but I'm wondering more and more why this reel costs $30 more than the Citica G. The handle has four bushings and so is upgradable with four bearings. That's a definite improvement over the Curado/Chronarch 200E, which can have 2 handle bearings max in the stock handle. Last pic: The drag key washer's edges were not smooth. This along with other things really made me feel as though the Curado G was not on the same level as the Citica E. The finish on the components just wasn't as good; the AR ratchet and key washer had sharper edges than the ones in the E, and the grey plastic used in the clutch felt flimsier than the white nylon plastic used in the E-series. I also noticed some machining marks on the drive gear, though the drag surfaces were smooth. The side plates also seemed a little more flexible than the Citica E's side plates. The only places I'd rate a stock Curado G over a stock Citica E were the handle knobs, the upgradable handle, and the crankshaft bearing. The drag is also stronger thanks to increased surface area, but the Citica E's drive gear actually has the capability for a more powerful drag. The drag washer diameter is bigger on the E though the G has more surface area stock. A carbontex drag for the E-series will send the drag into orbit, and I'd recommend replacing any Shimano dartanium drag with carbontex due to dartanium's long-term problems. I actually find the G's profile slightly more comfortable to palm than the E. I find the E to be too flat when used with cutout reel seats, believe it or not. My hands aren't particularly large, but I like a somewhat taller reel for use with ACS or Minima reel seats. This is a personal preference issue, nothing else. So, what does the Curado G offer over the Citica G to warrant the extra price? Bigger knobs, one more bearing, a different spool…that's pretty much it. The Citica G's handle has the capacity for four bearings just like the Curado G's handle. In my opinion the Curado doesn't warrant the extra $30. The knobs are $10, a stainless steel crankshaft bearing is maybe $7, and the spool difference has debatable effect on casting. The Citica E's casting is superb. So is the Curado G, but not enough to make me want to spend $160. You can find Citica G's for less than $100 if you look, and that's a much better buy. You can spend the saved money on upgrades and end up with a reel that's better than a Curado G. If you're in the market for a Shimano baitcaster, I'd go with the Citica G before the Curado G for the reasons outlined above. Even better, if you look around you can probably find a Citica E for $85 or so. I would say the Citica E is a better reel than either G-series baitcaster. Tight lines, Ben

According to Bantam1, nothing is being discontinued and nothing is going on sale. The Core and the Chronarch E are staying right where they are.

In that case you're not going to like the new C4. This is what it looks like: You might look around for a D-series Curado or Citica. Both are tough reels that will last for a very long time with care, and there are quite a few upgrade options out there.

If those are your criteria, the C4 is the reel for you. There are few reels as simple and rugged as an Ambassadeur (not including the Kalex and BCX), and the Ambassadeurs will keep going through abuse that will kill other reels. There will be an upgraded C4 coming out later this year, if you want to wait. Don't know how the price will compare to the current generation.

Saw the replay. Almost had as much fun watching Jose Fernandez react to it. Here's another laser beam: Stanton's first HR in 2013 The speed of the ball off his bat is just scary. The only time I really follow Facebook or Twitter is when I'm looking for info about new stuff. Don't have an account for either one, and didn't see Puig's tweet. I wish Craig was hitting more home runs, but he'll probably go on a tear sometime soon. So far this year he's hit exactly one home run at home. On the other hand, his line drive percentage is much higher than it's been in previous years. His fly ball percentage is down as much as his line drive rate is up, so I guess that's a good thing. I just like seeing the ball leave the park…

Watching him in the second round, you could tell he was taking it easy. Didn't need to hit at all since nobody had caught him, but apparently he wanted the American League to win the overall numbers. Then in the third round there were a couple times when he hit the ball and grimaced, thinking he hadn't gotten enough of it, and then the ball would go out. That last home run to dead center was just huge. Davis in the second round looked like he was trying too hard. His swing wasn't quite as easy as it was in the first. Next year can we see Stanton and Puig as well? Please?

???

Cespedes takes it home! Love watching him hit.

You're not alone. The trouble is that in the past most people have just used the RH-retrieve reels without questioning which is more efficient, including some people who would have probably been more comfortable with LH-retrieve reels all along had they been available. In recent years there's been more of a trend as more and more anglers have begun using LH reels, liking them, and complaining that there aren't more LH-retrieve options. I use both retrieves with a preference for LH. I started out using LH-retrieve but trained myself to use RH-retrieve reels so as to be able to use more reels. I still can't work a topwater stickbait with a RH-retrieve reel, but I can do most anything else. If you do decide to try a RH-retrieve reel, it's simplest just to cast with your dominant hand and switch hands to retrieve. Casting with your weak hand is probably something you can learn if you really need to, but it really doesn't take much time to swap hands and is easier. Of the reels you've mentioned, I'd avoid the W&M Skeet Reese Victory like the plague. Other than the braking, handle, and palm-side plate material, the Victory is the same as the Pinnacle Producer X, a reel that didn't last me a full fishing season. It's life was probably shortened somewhat by my attempts at learning how to service and tune baitcasters on it, but that just makes it an even worse choice for you. If you want an upgradable reel, you'll be hard pressed to beat a Shimano Citica. I'd go with an E or D; you can probably find the D for less though it's much larger and may be more difficult to palm if you have small hands. A Citica 100D will be easier to palm than a 200D, but they're also harder to find. In terms of upgrade options the Citica E is better because of the new Chronarch E. If you want you can buy a Citica 201E and then swap the gears out for 7:1 gears from a Chronarch, or swap the entire drag stack for 5:1 Chronarch gears if you want a power retrieve. Bearings can be added until there are a total of 8+1, and there are lots of polishable parts on the inside. The Citica 201G doesn't have so many gear options since the gears are only exchangeable with the Curado G, and overall the G isn't quite so nice as the E. You can probably find a Citica E for cheaper anyway. The Pro Qualifier is also a great reel to upgrade, though parts might be slightly harder to find.

IMO graphite frames have no place in baitcast reels, not even for bass. They just aren't rigid enough. In your case this is doubly true. Between the Pro Qualifier and the Silver Max, I'd go with the BPS reel eleven times out of ten.

The Chronarch's drag locks down around 10#—there's nothing wrong with your reel. The Chronarch is incapable of providing more drag pressure than that without modification. The most powerful drag on bass fishing baitcast reels is around 25#. There are no reels that lock down completely.

5.7 ounce Primmus hand-tuned baitcaster, 5.75 ounce carbon-frame Producer LTE baitcast reel, Perfecta 7 rods. Full article here. The Producer LTE is interesting, very interesting. It's also a bit worrying: 8+1 bearings, carbon frame & side plates, multi-disc drag, 5.75 ounces, price tag under $100. Just sounds too good to be true. The Johnny Morris Carbonlite hasn't exactly covered itself in glory, and it costs at least $30 more than this reel. The only other baitcaster in this weight range that doesn't cost an arm and a leg is the $130 H2O Xpress Mystic, which doesn't have a track record. Gotta wonder just how much weight and cost savings you can get without lowering QC too far.