KC Bass Fanatic

Depends on the lake I'm fishing that day but: Spro frog around matted grass 7" culprit worm in tomato flipped to timber custom jig in green sunfish pattern flipped to grass or wood

Pomme fishing is picking up fast with the falling water temps. I was reading 78 degrees surface temp over most of the lake yesterday. The shad are really schooled up and being blown into the coves. LMB are starting to chase. I caught a limit 3 days in a row by 8:00am with several 3lb, a 4lb, and a 5lb. Rocky points and bluff ends work crankbaits (dd14 or wiggle warts). Stump fields in 6-10' use trick worms or 7" worms. Heard several reports of guys catching big ones slow rolling spinnerbaits but I couldn't get bit doing it.

I blogged about this last winter: http://weekendbassangler.blogspot.com/2010/02/marine-battery-selection.html hope it helps

Alright, I will go with 50#. So.....with the mono on right now, I can just go make a long cast and maybe add another 10 yds, cut from there and tie on the braid? with what....blood knot? I had no idea that I could tie together different lines on a spool. I dont know why, but I just figured that the whole spool had to be one continuous line with no knots or it would weaken it somehow. :-[ I hear about needing "backing" with braid. Is that why you say to leave on some of the mono? (Besides, not having to use as much expensive braid) Also what is meant by digging in and laying down? I hear people say they have problems like that with braid. Thanks for the edumacation. ;D Basically digging in with braid is when you set the hook or something like that, because of its thin diameter it will dig in to the spool, thus be under other line, and when you cast you will backlash terribly. However once you go above 40# braid you will have no digging in problem. I use 50lb PowerPro and it still occasionally digs in on me.

7-12" worms (Power worms, culprits) black War Eagle buzzbait black jig/chunk black Spro bronzeye popper

I have a house there so I'm down almost every weekend. The bite is pretty slow right now honestly. 7" power worms in dark colors seem to be the only consistent bite. Look for fast (45deg) banks and target 8-12' of water. Main lake points are producing sporadically. i.e. one day I'll hit a point and catch 2-3 keepers and the next 3 times I hit it I can't get bit. Some fish are starting to move into the backs of creek channels. That bite is real inconsistent but when it's on it's REALLY on. We caught 30+ keepers in 6 hours throwing crankbaits in 2' of water (digging up mud). Went back the next weekend and couldn't get bit. It's real sporadic and overall the bite is slow but I hope I've helped you out.

I'm a fan of the CXX for all my crankbait applications. Any other application I use fluoro or braid.

Fished Truman Friday night and Saturday. The bite was pretty good early and late. All the fish I caught were tight on standing hardwood timber. The cedars didn't seem to be holding them. Fish were in 4-12' of water near channel swings. The best bite was a 10" worm in purple but I caught them early Saturday on a buzzbait and Shadalicious swimbait in green gizzard. We only caught 1 big one, she went 5-12, early Saturday morning on a 10" worm. Flip big plastics to the stumps all day for keeper bass right now.

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An old timer on Truman lake told me this a long time ago and it really works. Toss a big chrome spoon right in the middle of the action and let it sink. A lot of the larger bass don't expend the energy to bust the shad so they will just hang out below the action and wait for injured shad to sink. A super fluke on a keel weighted hook works well in this application too.

The Ol' Monster is a great worm. I've had better success with 10" Power worms though. In my area I usually only catch dinks on the ultra vibe but they catch for sure.

I've had good success on them but rarely throw them for some reason. I just prefer other plastics in my area.

I've had good success with a weighted hook when the bass are feeding. You can get reaction strikes like no other. When fishing them on weighted hooks I like to slowly raise my rod tip and then let them flutter down. The proper weighted hook (depends on size of fluke, just experiment) will cause the fluke to spiral down with a "shimmy". Deadly.

Got a tournament there tomorrow and I haven't been since the lake came back down a few weeks ago. Any reports helpful! Thanks fellas!

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The skirt definitely attracts bass the most visually. The trailer seals the deal once their attention is on it. The jig head can make a difference if they are hitting it on the fall (speed) or if they want it really banging rocks. That's a long answer to say the skirt is most important IMO.

Bandit 200 and Bomber FF Shad

These. I hand tie all my own jigs cause it's cheaper, something they haven't seen, and better quality (usually).

You should try both - let the fish tell you where they are and what presentation they want that day. It can change daily...hourly even.

Are you sure they're taking it in their mouth or just blowing up on it? The reason I'm asking is because I have never had an issue with hooking up on Spros. If I miss a fish, it's 99% my fault. Try waiting until your rod loads up fully - this may seem like eternity - sometimes as long as 10-15 seconds. They won't spit it and they won't swallow it either so waiting doesn't hurt you.

Unfortunately this scene is becoming more and more common. There is some unwritten etiquette: 50 yards behind a boat, 100 yards in front...etc I can't tell you how many times I get cut off when someone buzzes me on the outboard only to drop their trolling motor 40 yards AHEAD of me. Most tourney fishermen know better, unfortunately the ones that don't or don't care are increasing.

Confirmed - I saw it on their facebook page.

The 7/0 too big for a 12"? I use them on a 10" Power Worm and they are perfect. I know it's down to personal preference but I like my worm to have as much hook as possible without affecting the action.

I've been recommending these here for months. They are hands down the best big worm hook out there. The hook-up ratio will go up because it reduces the misses on those pesky short strikers. I use 7/0 for 10" worms and the 11/0 for 12" and bigger. Super sharp out of the package and hold up well. Buy some and you'll never use anything else on your big worms.

Man I miss that worm!