bigbassctchr101

I'm still a big user of mono line. I use it on 80% of my rods. I may have some braid on a frog rod/or a rig, and I may have some flourocarbon line on one or two other combos. The big reason I use mono is because of the way I fish...I like it on crankbaits. And, I fish at night a lot and did not like the stren flourescent flouro, and don't like fishing a jig/worm on braid. So, that doesn't leave me with too many more options. I too, check my line for nicks, and retie after almost every fish or snag. I had a problem with flourocarbon at first with line breakage issues on the hookset, but later found out that it was my fault due to the knot and the way I was tying the knot. After that, I have not had any consistent problems with most brands of line. I have ran into "bad spools" of almost all line however. P-line, big game, mccoy, renegade, gamakatsu, etc.(I think bad spools could be the result of the way they were put up and stored before being purchased) I go thru a lot of line in a season, mostly because I re-tie so much and I like to keep a full spool so my casts get have the most distance. The only line I have used several times and would not attempt to use again would be vanish. I know people who use it and like it....I believe Ott Defoe which is currently fishing the Elites actually uses this. But for me, I had break off after break off on this line. I had it at the knot, from the rod to the lure, and coming right off the spool. The only thing consistent on it was its inconsistency. I think most people just need to understand lines before they buy them so they will be more satisfied. You do not want to buy an abrasion resistant mono line if your looking for low memory and extra limp...thats called braid lol. If people would look up how line is made and what the properties are, they would be much more knowledgable about their purchase.

I use a carbonlite reel for some of my smaller flipping things. I have not had a problem with it.

If your only fishing these types of lures in dusk and dawn, your missing out! There is almost ALWAYS a big spook on my deck and it gets casted in all hours of the day/night.

How much does a new boat like that run? How shallow can they run? I know they have a bass/flats boat design and it is a popular style boat in florida. When I make the trip down there I see several people using them. I can't help but wonder why many people don't have them here in Tennessee to run up the rivers? When I get the chance to buy a new boat, it will probably end up being a flats/bass style design.

We had an issue with a guy that was in the service then came back. I believe we were able to get him qualified to fish. i believe little rules like this can be tweaked because its a newer sport in college series. So rules are still being set up and bent so that they are better to accomadate other people.

I'd go with a spook or sammy. I know they will catch big and little fish. I probably will not lose it. And I can fish fast,slow, structure, cover, open water, and still be successful. Would definitely get my choice!

I know you said you wanted a new one. I can respect that being right out of college myself. I have found though, that there are a lot of NEW/USED boats out there if you look. Some that still have the warranty on hull and motor with all of the options already on the boat. As soon as you drive away the first owner takes a loss on the boat. That could really help you open your options on different makes and models as well. Plus, many of these boats are going to be tournament ready with the trolling motor and electronics already set up. Also, looking at some of "last years" models that same dealers may still have can help you a lot as well.

The best color for a popper is no color at all!!! BONE white. Same holds true for a trap in my opinion. Zell Rowland once stated in reference to his poppers and walking baits, that he has had just as much luck with a $150 custom realistic japan paint job as he had with the same bait painted in all chrome. That man knows his stuff about topwater fishin. I'll take his word on that. I think realistic baits do have their time and place however. More often than not, its not going to be on a FAST/MODERATE MOVING topwater bait.

I fish small clubs and larger tourn trails. In the smaller shorter club tournaments with 25-50 boats, I go for the bigger fish. But when I am fishing against 150-200 boats, I don't think there is a problem with staying in a spot with smaller keeper fish to finish out a limit. 125 of the other boats may not get a limit...which will put you in the money. When paying out $100-$200 per tournament, there is no shame with assuring that your winning your money back. And sometimes, you just get in a spot where you end up catching the same size fish. I've been in situations that a 3lb fish added to my limit would have won me thousands of dollars....I've also fished that same lake and culled 3lb fish all day. When I target big fish and have plenty of time to do it, I first target the same areas that I've caught the smaller fish and use a bigger bait. (If I have a partner in the tourn, one of us will already be using a bigger bait) If that doesn't work, I will sit on a big hump or ledge with a bulky jig or 10" worm.

The Trion. Its been sunk, flooded, thrown, slung, bounced in a truck, scuffed, had 130yrds of line peeled off from the drag, its discolored, ugly, and the thing works like new. It will outcast a red eye shad or DD22 better than any shimano, pro qualifier, browning, or other abu that I have. It wouldn't be my first pick of a reel. But when it comes to abuse and takin a lickin but keeps on tickin...thats my pick every time.

The trions are awesome. The older ones are anyway. They are bulletproof, and cast far. These were my first reels, I bought them from a dealer that would give me a great price. I still use the 6.3:1's for long casting baits like traps and sometimes smaller cranks -on the right rod, 60yrds easy with 1/2ounce trap- I bought a newer 5.2:1 ratio just a few months ago. This reel can sling a 3/8 ounce spinnerbait, I can just imagine the way it will throw a DD22 when the time comes. They are heavy and may not be quite as smooth as other reels. But, I think this is the only bad thing about this reel that I would have to say, and it would certainly be a worthwhile trade off to get this reel. They are also a good reel to learn how to clean, assemble and disassemble. They are really easy to learn, and if you can take this reel apart, you know how to take over 50% of other brands apart too.

I wasn't really trying to say that companies were passing off regular "mono" line as flourocarbon line. But the topic title could cover all grounds from mono-co-poly-fouro. I am just saying that with a co poly for example it would be good to make sure how exactly it is being made. This is a description of one co-poly, co-extruded hybrid of an advanced coplymer inner core with an outer layer of premium fluorocarbon. So, as long as the outer layer has a flouro carbon coating of any kind, it will be a co-polymer. This is where I believe some descrepancies could be made. How well or how much of a coating of flourocarbon would you be getting on one brand or another of co-poly? If you were getting the same type, same amount, and the same stuff, then every brand would perform and cost the same.

I think in all reality, they probably do it. And I believe many companies do it (not just fishing) A car that runs 90% on gas and 10% battery/solared power is still a hybrid car. A gas additive that "increases octane ratings" could only increase it by .5% and still be considered a gas additive that increases octane. I am not a big fan of flourocarbon, but I have seen what industries can and will do to increase dollar amount with more additives (this is true especially in plastic and polymers). I don't know and have no bias towards one company or another, but it seems like a couple companies make sure they say, 100% flourocarbon in one or two types of line, even if they offer another type of flourocarbon line. If your wanting 100% flouro, I think something that states that they are 100% is your best bet of getting that.

They usually only offer a one day sale on things. Occassionaly it will go on for two or three. Usually they offer the "days special" on the front page.

X2... This is my go to method first too before getting the pole out. But, mine is a paper clip and egg sinker lol

I like the idea of making a packaging re-usable or to be of other use. But, if the same two lures are put side by side, I am going to buy the cheaper one. Most recycable products actually cost more. If the "box" was easily converted into an on-line, on-rod, lure case to use while in storage, this may be something I would consider. It'd be like buying one and getting two. Something along the lines of the rat-l-traps could easily be converted to do this? I'm sure there are tons of ideas. But, something that would reduce the overall cost of the lure is going to help a ton. Pretty wraps and paint jobs only catch so many fisherman...

I believe that they make a 4:7.1 Winch. Not sure??

I've had this happen with dirty a dirty worm gear. The line pawl sticks and does not move equally causing a build up of line on the slower side. Also, the pawl could be worn and not tracking well. You can tighten up the screw on the back and do what the gentlemen above said and it should have you on track. If not, you may need either a good cleaning, or a new pawl! Either way, nothing major.

The pole is the best. I bought my 18' pole for $20 dollars. Jerkbaits, crankbaits, even plastics when I don't feel like re-tying. If you think about it, you just need to save 2-4 baits, depending on their price, before you pay for the retriever. No brainer. I try not to squirrel fish too often, but it does happen. But, i've saved the same 5 dollar DD-22 over 10 times in one day. That stuff adds up! As for the jerkbait, they do work awesome. I have found that lighter # test line will give you more action. These guys work great in cold weather, but its also hard to beat them with a jerk-jerk-pause-rip once the bass come up near the shallows (pre-post spawn)

I have a lot of family in Flatwoods Kentucky.

I have several reels that I can cast a 1/2ounce rattle trap about 60yds if I had to guess. But I can whip that sucker out there, but my settings are actually set to where i can let go of the spool and switch hands while the lure is in the air (when I am casting and reeling with right hand). Thats with a 7ft rod and 12lb test line. The rod is able to load up well and the reel is set good for that type of bait and cast. Most of my reels are dialed in to where I can do this though. That is just what works for me. I could probably get some extra distance if I used even less brake, but in very few instances am I even able to set the hook that far out.

KVD said with his set up we could consistently get 70+yards with his crankbait set up. That is 210ft. Thats some huge distances. Thats extreme, but I think it could consistently be done with good conditioned equipment, a longer pole (7' +), and a heavy bait, (maybe some wind to your back wouldn't hurt) lol. Like stated above, measure this by the length of a football field. Any distance in that range is a possibility and shouldn't be incredibly hard to match until you get beyond 50yds or so. Bait selection will matter a great deal in this too. http://www.strikeking.com/journal/00311/5.php

Great to hear!!!!

I've caught over 10 big blues on crank baits the biggest being about 35lbs. Several yellow (flatheads) cats on the same with the biggest probably hitting 13-15lbs. This usually happens during a tournament, they give the kind of bite that makes your heart drop lol I've also caught smaller cats on, 10oz bucktail flies fishing for striper, small crappie flies, little georges, and a topwater pop r (but this was in a pond)

I have never even heard of this being a problem until now! I only use concrete ramps (which are usually very long due to the rising and lowering of our lakes. I can't see that this would cause a problem as most are also lined with rap rap rocks on the side. I'll start paying a little more attention to this, honestly though, if you are able to load your boat properly, your motor should be tilted high enough to where most of the thrust is not headed directly into the ground.