bigbassctchr101

The KVD's have their time to shine. But so do the others. I just wish I knew which times they were lol I've been spanked out of the back of the boat with a RES against a Rat L Trap. But, i've also done the same thing in reverse. They all employ different sounds, vibrations, and actions, its been really hard for me to pick out which bait to use in which condition. I usually go with the Red Eye Shad though especially later in the fall and early in the spring because I like the way it flutters when popped or jerked and paused. So, I feel that this is one bait that does several different things OK while all the others can do one thing (exaggeration), but they do it really good. So I don't have to reach around a grab another rod for a fluttering bait, or a rip bait, or a fast moving bait, etc...

This is good stuff. I have changed out my hooks on many baits. But it has almost always been for the sharpness aspect. Not the action... with the exception being topwaters (heavier hook on the back) and floating/suspending jerkbaits. But I just haven't had the time to experiment with hooks for the different actions on moving baits. I was intrigued by Jeff's post about removing the back hook. I've done this before and added the spinner blade (like a ratltrap pro series) But I don't fish grass, only the occasional stick up and brush pile here and there. The thing that really sparked my interest was the new sebile lipless bait. It seems like a pretty neat design, although to me it seems like your hookup percentage would be good if it was 60/40%. Has anyone fished this thing yet???? I probably wont be getting one just to try out. But I would like to hear some things about it. The feather on the back is neat too. I've done it with deep divers and shallow cranks, but not a lipless or blade bait. I guess I just need to experiment with heavier hooks in front, lighter in back, bigger hooks, smaller hooks, quad hooks, rotating hooks, all seem to have their time to shine. This would be a great reason to get the dive gear out. I was hoping to hear a magic combo that makes a red eye shad feel like a silver buddy, and fall like a fluke lol JK. I guess in most aspects though the manufacturer does pretty much have a good suggestion for the original and best action of their baits.

I have been using a 6'9" MH carrotstick. I am in the process of switching many rods to APR and have been using the 6'10"MH for my topwaters lately. I'm tall so anything below a 7' I think will work with ease. I like to be able to throw a topwater and jerkbait a long way so that usually rules out the 6'6's for me, but they do allow you to put a lot of action to your bait.

When changing your stock hooks on lipless baits and small crank baits... do you always put on the suggested hook size? Does anyone change up the size any? I know changing the size will almost always change the action, but is their a combination that will change the action in a positive way? I was going to experiment with the red eye shad. 2 in front and 4 in back? Vice versa? what do you guys do? I just noticed...this is in the wrong section... Sorry

I have a 7' Carrotstick cranking rod. I believe its a MH with a moderate action. Its actually one of my stiffest cranking rods. I don't use it for traps, but we don't have anything to "rip" traps thru. (our trap fishing is just on flats and schools and deeper in channels) But this rod has worked for everything from wake baits, to 20ft Spro divers, and its a good spinnerbait rod. While a medium-softer action probably won't rip the hooks out as much, a MH with a parobolic bend will also do the same thing but can be used in more applications as a multi purpose rod. Some guys crank with a whippy stick and I know some that crank with a flippin stick...its all a matter or preference. There will also be benefits and negatives to everything.

I've caught most on the RES, because I fish it most often. I like the fall it has when given slack line. The rat-l-trap used to be my go too, and still is in the spring (red craw is hard to beat!). I switch up and throw a cordell spot when the bite seems to slack with the RES. None of the spots sounds a like, so sometimes it can be that subtle change that gets them bitin again.

It may just be a matter of opinion...and only that. But I have two of the carbonlites as well. I tried to use them as my jig/worm rod and it just didn't cut it for me. I do still use the 7'Heavy as a riggin rod, but the sensitivity is more apparent in the Duckett and even the carrotstix for me. I don't use braid very often at all. And, i didn't give the carbonlite the fairest chance, I usually used it with an Abu Orra so it was always a little heavier than my other rods. But I never felt like I had as much of a connection with the lure with them rods. I get my rods at a local sporting goods place usually. And my warranty is through him most often. So if it was to break by default of its own, he would exchange it and he would be the one dealing with the issue. Now that I have a couple white rods, I wouldn't want to pay the 150-170 price tag on them. But I would jump on some deals at 100-125, for that price, you will not be disappointed. Same with the carbonlites....I wouldn't pay 100-125, but it'd be an awesome deal at 75-95. just my opinion of course.

Do you have a schematic for that reel? If you don't I think the pflueger purists are pretty similar in terms of internals and assembly. I'd start with just a frame and follow the schematic precisely. If ya can't get it I know that DVT has an awesome offer for members!!!!

I've thrown jerkbaits on my 6'9" carrotstix all day long and the temp never broke 25. If there is a problem, they didn't tell my rod. lol

They should be just fine. Even if just parked behind your house. But if your boat is sitting at a boat dock slip and in the water, the water temp should still be in the higher 60's up there isn't it? And your rods are probably in the rod locker which will provide even more heat. So, they're safe.

I don't "winterize" personally. But I make sure that I have proper gas treatment in the fuel, and make sure that there is no water draining into or out of the motor. I do this all year around however. If you keep your batteries charged up correctly and use it 2-3 weekends a month you should be good to go.

I agree completely, with the exception of one bait.... there just isn't many speed options that are comfortable with a Mann's 30+... I have tried about everything except the Curado 3.8 But i still have my doubts aboutit with them big baits lol

Try putting everything on the way you have been. But, leave off the AR sleeve that goes onto the crankshaft. Does it still turn hard??? If it does then it would almost have to be something related to something not being properly seated or something else is interferring with the way the assembly was orginially put together. If it doesn't turn hard without the sleeve, take out the AR bearing and put on the sleeve. After doing this, nothing should have changed... make sure the AR bearing is installed correctly. There is really almost nothing else that could be causing this bind other than the way the AR and sleeve are aligned IF the crankshaft turns freely with them removed. Just a thought???

Is the bottom drag part seated properly and lined up with the groves or notches on the crankshaft? It can look like it is and actually not be. This would cause everything to be raised up enough to push against the side plate when tightened. Are drag washers turned the correct way and seated in the correct position in the correct sequence? Is the pawl in your worm gear in the proper position and properly tightened? If not tightened properly it may work when inverted or held in one way but not in another causing the handle not to turn correctly (which could have damaged the gear/pawl) Make sure the anti reverse gear in placed into the handle correctly if you took it out. Also make sure that the AR bearing sleeve that goes over the shaft is sitting correctly on the crankshaft. Have you tried not spinning the crankshaft until after you have both side plates and spool all in the correct position? (You may be putting the pinion gear out of whack by turning the handle before the spool in in correctly) Make sure the spool is placed in correctly on both sides. It is possible to have the spool shaft come thru the right side assembly correctly but not be in the hole in center of the bearing on the removable sideplate. You shouldn't have to force anything, it apparently came apart just fine so it should go together with minimal effort as well. If you have already double checked to make sure everything is right, then triple check it. If it worked before you took it apart, then there is something not right with the way it was put back together. There is no other logical explanation for it....its propably something simple and stupid. Good Luck

The baits and colors are truly awesome!

Cabelas used to carry a baby duckling. They were made by the same company that did natural looking rats and weasel looking baits as well. I think they were about 40-50 bucks a piece. I can't remember the names or companies, I just remember being little and always wanting one to fish with lol

Great info!!! Thank you alot. Is there a reason why people use the devcon epoxy and other things like that the require mixing and quick application? I'm new to this and it just always made me think. Is the 2 part epoxy stronger, more chip resistant??

FAMOWOOD® Dura-Tuff Clear Coat Polyurethane Coating http://www.creative-wholesale.com/Dura-Tuff.html Could you all tell me if you could use this for a clear coat on crankbaits? Could you pop the lid, dip it in and set it on a drying wheel? If you can't, please let me know why not.

I now have two of the duckett rods. 7' and 7'3". Awesome rods. At times I think I could almost tell you how many divots are on a rock. I've heard a couple others mention some other rods that they thought were lighter and more sensitive...I am very willing to try out them rods to compare. The duckett won me over the first time i used it though. I was even suprised about the tips and ice in the winter. The micro guides actually wisk away the water like a squegee so the only eye that normally gets iced over is the tip (which is easily fixed by submerging the rod in the water). So far, it scores an A+ across the board for me.

I havent fished a Powell, but after someone calling a Duckett a heavy rod, I think i'm going to have to.

I'd suggest the duckett. 7' has done the job great for me.

sorry.. please delete

I fish DD22's in 3-10ft of water all thru the warmer months on into late fall. A big bait really diggin and stirrin up stuff can really create a reaction bite at times. DD22's are my choice because they can back up out of obstructions when you hit an obstacle and stop. Each bait usually have its time and place with many of them overlapping and performing double duties.

Green pumpkin works all day when its raining too... And at night. And at noon. And in winter. And in clear water. And in murky water. and... you get the point.

I mix up retrieves. But the way I enjoy fishing it is by fishing it with a constant retrieve, but slow enough to not hear the gurgle sounds. The muskie jitterbug really excels at this for bass. I have a hard time believing that others wouldn't work as good.