aavery2

I would like to use your mention of fluorescent yellow to make a point or ask a question. So we can assume from the test that a bass can indeed see what we call fluorescent yellow, a color that appears as a very bright yellow to humans, our optic nerve passes a signal to the visual cortex or our brain and fluorescent yellow is seen as a bright yellow color to us. So what about a bass, as mentioned we can assume that the bass can see fluorescent yellow, but what we don't know is how a fishes optic nerve processes that information and sends it to the the visual cortex of their brain. They may interpret fluorescent yellow as a checkerboard, or something that we cannot even comprehend. So when someone says a bass can see green, it only means that a bass can see what we interpret as green, it may be something entirely different to them, or not.

Unknown, I would assume it was done in a controlled environment to eliminate as many variables as possible.

I'll be using 2lb test mono in the morning.

I wire tie almost all of my jigs, I don't twist until they break, I twist until it is a nice tight uniform pattern, and then cut it with about 5-7 twist remaining. Most of the molds I use or have access to are Do-it molds. Many of them recommend eagle claw hooks. You just have to play around with hooks until you find one that will work with the mold and meet your requirements or break out the dremel tool and make it the way you like.

I follow the mfg's recommendation. I have a few different paints, but they are usually around 300 degrees for 15 minutes.

I don't know, do they? My jigs hold paint a heck of a lot better than many of the commercial jigs I have purchased.

Interesting, to me I find it cool that they were wrestling with the same thoughts and questions in 1979, 35 years ago.

May I refer you to the thread about if the jig and trailer need to match. I think we determined that it was only a factor when it was.

I have a fluid bed, I find that I can run small numbers of baits just as well without using it. If I want to do a good number of baits then I will use my fluid bed. Fluid beds can be a little messy covering a small area in a very fine dust. Nothing outrageous, at least in my experience. One of the secrets to having a jig with a durable finish is the process of curing the paint after it is applied.

It does sometimes when it has a crankbait tied to it.

I think you would factor yourself into oblivion trying to calculate the probability that a bass would bite.

I have been playing with a product called UV blast. It is a spray, you apply it and let it dry, dries quickly and has a very hard finish. I would be interested in hearing how your UV coating works for you.

I use many different colors of powder paint, when applied as the manufacturer recommends, it will cure to a very hard finish without the need for an extra clear coating. I have mixed many different custom colors by combining different colored powder paints, just keep in mind you don't always get what you expect, but it is fun none the less. If I can be of any help, just let me know.

I fail to understand your logic

Caught a few fish earlier in the year with my Yo-Zuri snap beans. They are the coolest little crankbaits ever.

Is there a reason you are not powder coating?

At what depth, what color water, clear, blue, green or tanic? Is is a cloudy day or sunny, is the sun overhead or just rising. Chop on the water or smooth like glass? I respect your education, but it is not as simple as saying bass X responds to stimuli Y in this manner. If that were the case it would be easy enough to figure out.

There have been some very good tests similar to this with published results. The information can be hard to find but if you are persistent and wade through the information , there are some very good studies and research projects going on.

This is a portion of a article in a very good book on what bass see. Numerous experiments have been done on bass concerning their vision and ability to identify different colors and thicknesses of fishing line. In one research project, bass were trained to strike targets connected to different colored fishing line. There were a series of targets connected to different colored fishing line, bass were trained to strike certain colored fishing line in order to receive a reward of food. Once the bass learned which colored fishing line resulted in a reward, the experiment was repeated with fishing line of smaller diameter. Bass were able to quickly select the fishing line of the desired color down to four pound test line. This experiment was repeated with different colored fishing line. Bass were also able to discriminate between different colors of the fishing line with a high degree of accuracy. This experiment proved several things. Bass have highly developed color vision and were able to determine the difference between clear, purple, green, blue, yellow and pink fishing lines.

Bass can and do see red very clearly when light permits, as mentioned, to be seen as red an object must be struck with red and reflect red light. Red light is the first color to lose it's ability to penetrate through the water column. The clearer the water the deeper the penetration. It's not that bass cannot see red, its that red cannot always penetrate to the depth the bass are holding, when this happens it color shifts and can appear as grey or black.

I fish a 41 acre sandpit, it has a little more going on than yours, but one of the very effective ways of covering a lot of water and catching fish is the C-rig.

Points , flats, grass, depth ?

Would it be better than just making a grey line?

Pline CX is fluorocarbon coated copolymer.

I like the idea of less visible lines, but I think there is a distinction that needs to be made. I don't believe that colors like red and blue in this case are invisible to fish. I would think that instead of seeing them as blue or red they would see them as a greyscale.