Chad L

Put them into a vacuum container with the dye and vacuum seal them, they will take on a ton of the dye and might be able to get away with only 1 coating.

If your getting what you appear to be describing as fish eyes, where the epoxy seperates in areas. It can be caused by contamination in the first coat, or if your using syringes with silicone in them it will cause that. As well as thread designed for sewing can have waxes in them that will cause that. If it is the thread all you need to do is cut off a piece of thread a couple inches long and add it to the epoxy when mixing, this will condition the epoxy and help eliminate the fish eyes.

i have been using Arsenal Drop Out for a few years and I get the complete pour on even the smallest jigs. Recommend cleaning your mold with thinner or alcohol to remove all old residue from candle smoke ect. Then spray a coat of Drop Out, the let dry and start pouring.

I absolutely agree with junyer, ease of changing colors and also the amount of paint required. I have a couple bottle feeds and they work great for base coating a lot of lures at a time, but the gravity feed is much more precise and you can lower pressure and get more detail. I have both Iwata HP- C plus and CS, and one Paasche Talon with all 3 needle sizes.

If you think 2 is good, I would put one more coat on. All that work would be a shame if 2 coats didn't completely seal it up. I am no help with the ones you listed as I use Chromaseal and Diamond II.

I gotta go against the grain here, I would be dragging a lizard or craw imitation on a Carolina rig. You could even get creative and use a wacky senko on the Carolina rig.

Thanks for the heads up. I took the wife and a couple of those coupons and picked up 2 of the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS kits for a great price. Now I have 4 top quality ABs for all my painting needs!

Go to YouTube and type in Doc Ski, he does a tutorial and is one of the premier Rod builders of this time, as well as being a retired Chief Petty Officer.

I always do black/silver or black/gold for the under then color I want tiger. To be plus one sacrificial size D for the top layer.

Never look at the tackle making craft as a money saving endeavor, now that doesn't mean I have not used that excuse to the wife, but it is better to be looked at as a way to build stuff exactly the way you want it. Every money saving endeavor with tackle generally ends up costing me way more money than buying off the shelf, but I can tweak and tune and make things "Custom" to the conditions.

I just threw all my AB's away and ordered 2 Paasche Talons and a Iwata HP C +. The Talons come with .28, .38, and .66 so that should cover the whole spectrum. I just got tired of the inconsistency. Wife said why not spend the money up front and get something to last and work, gotta love her for that as she lets me buy anything I want and even tries to get me to buy stuff I am on the fence about.

I run TSI 321, Shimano grease or cals for the drags, and Evinrude Triple Guard for all other grease requirements.

The biggest is rod torque, but when you add in micro guides you can lengthen the distance between the guides after the transition, therefore using less guides equals less weight equaling better sensitivity, and with less guides you are lessening the amount of friction with the line going through the guides and you "may" get more distance from the cast. The leader will pass thought no differently then that of a spinning guide with micro guides.

I agree it is based off what clear is used, I use Diamond II rod epoxy. never have issues with paint chipping ect. Looking at the different custom painters I don't think you can go wrong with any of the main ones.

Couple weeks ago I got 3 Falcon Bucoos with Micro Guides. 2 casting 7' M, 1 spinning 7' m cranker, $69 each.

You are absolutely correct, very honest and fair, but they also have a very high pride level as well and most time won't advertise if they have previously used item for sale not on display. A lot of time a local can ask the right questions.

Keep them were legal and the lake can support it, that's why they have slot limits and overall limits. Most lakes I fish up here it is more for fun, but when people want to keep to eat I don't look down on them.

Drift a jointed shad rap just past then click in gear and let it swim and rattle right in the middle of them, the ones that are interested will attack it.

Lexa 100HS are on sale for $69 at Gander Mountain. Get your money back and save almost half and you still have the same reel gifted to you.

I would have got a length and girth on that had a fiberglass replica made if I caught it. What a beast.

Munkin, Once you have put the powder on and it cools, pull the wire out and wipe clean then reinsert and in the oven to cure, this will minimize the curing and pulling away from the weight.

If at all possible, bring a local with you before buying anything. They will be able to discuss pricing for you, otherwise you will pay PREMIUM prices because they know where you are coming from and how big JDM is in the US.

Just tried to post a picture of the Pre-Raps but this IPad takes to big a photos. Need some help here. Can I email the phot and Photoshop smaller? I posted them on the Bass Resource Facebook page since I could not get them edited small enough to fit on here.

I would just use powder paints, much easier and a lot less mess plus they will hold up better once baked on. Use the paper clips a holder to dip and keep paint out of the hole and to hang them in the oven to bake on.

I have been meaning to do a side by side comparison. I think I have about 14 of the Pre-Rap in a plano at home.