ClackerBuzz

all great advice. if/when you need to buy new stock consider the burner blades. i'm becoming a big fan of strike king burners b/c the blades are much thinner. the thin blades mean they aren't as finicky about being in tune. they even stay vertical when you burn them fast as a rabbit. and they stay down when hunting in deep water for hogs bc the blades don't lift. in my book its a and all around win. war eagle has 'screaming eagles' too http://www.***.com/Strike_King_Burner_Spinnerbait/descpage-SKBS.html

no need to reinvent the wheel. a spinnerbait allows you to work any part of the water column and is relatively snag free from shore. and a jig if they aren't chasing reaction. desperate times call for desperate measures so of course then a senko. if i can't get them with those 3 all bets are off and it's junk fishing time. and I'd take 2 rods.. and change locations before changing lures.

bow and arrow release http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/144161-what-do-you-do-when-you-snag-a-good-piece-of-cover/

for smallies on a river or largemouth in a lake?

like smalljaw said it's all about the slack. drop ur rod tip 12" and snap back 13". that 1" uptake will jerk ur spook to the side. as opposed to the mistake of dropping 12" slack and jerking back 20". you'll only drag the lure forward.

I used to fish a pond identical to what ur describing. used to drive me crazy. Like Oregon and Sam mentioned the fish are spooking b/c ur lure is casting a bald eagle like shadow. And these bass are most likely in very shallow water compared to the rest of the pond (the 'coves' are more shallow and harder to fish). Even the shadow of a weightless finesse worm would spook my fish. The best lure I found was a Mepps spinner or rooster tail but I had to up size the treble hook b/c the bass in the pond were chunkers. The shiny blade not only didn't bother them but some days they seemed mesmerized by it. The bass weren't near as skittish in the deep sections so def try to find the deepest water possible. I could easily cast senkos, jigs, frogs, swimbaits etc in the deep water. I'd also use the lily pads to my advantage (to hide behind, casting to their shady sides, cast 10" worms at points, land lures on top of...wait 1 min and slowly drag off into water). I'd also use Sam's suggestion of letting a lure settle before retrieving. I'd cast a 10" worm, spook the fish off but wait a few mins for them to return. The ones that fled to deep water will work their way shallow again. And the ones that bolted left or right will slowly fill the gap again. Use an ultra slow, bottom contact drag retrieve and they will quickly take interest. Standing 10 ft back from shore works at all my lakes but not this pond. The pond was part of a private nature preserve so the shore line was crowded with some of the most brilliant colored sunfish I've ever seen. Casting within the first 10 ft of shore only landed you bluegills. I'd use spinning gear and accept break offs in the shallow areas. Or use a casting rod and patiently wait for spooked fish to return to a weightless worm.

http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/142538-the-secret-to-not-losing-so-many-senkos-heres-the-solution/

ur going to be in heaven just b/c you ditched the mono! i like braid more b/c there is nothing worse than back lashing fluoro and kinking the line 50 ft into ur spool. snip snip you can pick out a massive 100 ft braid back lash and keep on fishing. get ready to re-spool if you do that with fluoro.

my only advice for him...don't quit ur 'part time evening job'

don't trust TW's specs. go to the manufacturers site. but you still gotta be careful b/c even the manufacturer sites have misprints

yup i do this too. looks like i'm water skiing on land not sure what happened to my vid. any input for future reference? no more youtube vids? copyright infringement?

use the bow and arrow release. once you get the hang of it you can get so many lures back. listen/watch Jason (7:04 & 7:40 forward) and how gentle his technique is. it's not how hard/tight you pull back on ur line. you're trying to send a loop of line back down the line so it kicks the lure back off the object. very similar to cracking a bullwhip when you were a kid. or casting a fly fishing line. the two things I could recommend to focus on are: 1 pull the line gently 2 throw ur rod tip forward violently i say it like this b/c most guys have it reversed. ie they pull the line extremely tight but don't put any forward motion into the rod. you want to 'push or ripple a loop back down to ur lure. a lot of times with crankbaits the best thing to do is nothing. they will often float up by themselves. just set the rod down and come back to it in a few minutes. i've even snagged multiple chatterbaits, disengaged my reel, leaned my rod against a tree, fished 50 ft down shore with my other rod...and came back only to have my chatterbait unhook itself b/c of gravity/current. from a boat you get to use lure retrievers but i always spend some time with bow and arrow b/c i don't want to ruin a spot. after you get good you don't need to get out the lure retrieve. and after you get really good you can even work crankbaits thru cover w/o loading hooks deep into timber (i can't wait for that day to come when fishing open shore w/ no cover i'm with catch and grease and if possible use heavier line/braid w/ lighter wire hooks so I can bend them out. it works fine in open water/rock reservoirs w/ no cover b/c the fish is going to run for open water. i just take my time fighting him out there and let the rod and drag do their job.

in my experience when going over the rod rating there is a far greater chance of backlashing than breaking a tip. of course once the bait monkey gets on ur back you'll have more rods than you can use Like Raul said, under weighting means the rod won't perform ie you'll slice ur lure hard left like a bad golf swing

glad i wasn't shore fishing

hard to beat BPS Pro Qualifiers. Esp used in the forum for $60 http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/143899-bass-pro-qualifiers-x3/ mine are going strong 4 seasons in but my records aren't jack compared to goose52's http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/94972-bps-pro-qualifier-bc-reel-%E2%80%93-5-year-challenge-%E2%80%93-interim-report/.

come on, nobody's gonna bite?

yes you can use the jumper cable but they may rust. marine cable is pretty cheap by the foot. i did the same thing as you and bought from http://www.genuinedealz.com/. it's cheap and the guys is really nice and will help you on the phone. i didn't have to worry about a fuse b/c i bought a minn kota power box that has the fuses installed. the guy from genuine also gave me great connection advice. buy a butt connector one size larger than ur largest wire ie buy a 4 ga butt conn if ur joining a 6 ga and 8 ga wires, push the wires in the tube from opposite end and crimp shut (slide heat shrink on before crimping). it was a great permanent suggestion. they also sell nylon tubing (like rod covers) to keep everything together. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/CTI0/84512/N0211.oap?ck=Search_N0211_-1_-1&pt=N0211&ppt=C0189

To find out about the industrial pond call Bob Smith at 410-111-00005. To find out about the residential pond call Rita Jennings at 410-555-12121

http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/142538-the-secret-to-not-losing-so-many-senkos-heres-the-solution/

if it's a small personal property i'm def asking. i'm more likely to have at it if it's commercial property that's not signed. in general you're more likely to get a 'yes' by asking private home owner and more likely to get a 'no' by asking commercial property owner b/c of the liability mentioned.

x2. 10 min's with a small crappie lure and you'll know what kind of baitfish are there

never stand on the dock. stand on the shore and cast both sides and then criss cross the front from both directions. walking onto the dock is like setting off the burglar alarm on yourself. i won't fish a dock if it already has people standing on it. keep working down the shoreline to a more secluded area

Stuck a 10 http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=d5e_1408462761

x2. i would toss out a bunch of questions and initially put the ball in their court. it may work in ur favor b/c the guy may very well offer a labor discount. scratch ur head and say... "i've never had something like this happen before. i really appreciate the new parts but what's ur policy when you complete labor/work that wasn't necessary? can i see a break down of the parts vs labor?" if he doesn't automatically offer a discount say ur still very confused about how to handle the whole situation b/c it's never happened to you before. say "i just feel really uncomfortable paying for something that wasn't necessary especially since i still had to pay to have the real work done somewhere else. BUT you put in new parts so i definitely feel i owe you for them". i'd go in calm and cautious first b/c you catch more flies with honey than vinegar. don't get hot till ur ready to burn down a bridge

the only way to truly know is to ask a fish genie ps I hope you catch a lunker at ur new spot