Traveler2586

LOL, no, just lack of sleep. How are you doing?

Two Irish couple decides they'll swap partners for something a bit different. After 3 hours of amazing fun (s**) Paddy says "I wonder how the girls are going?"

It looks like a photo of a bass I saw that had Large Mouth Bass Virus. ( I'll try to find the photo on line) I think it's in its final stage of the infection. As I understand it the sores you see on the outside of the fish are caused by stress on the fish from the virus. http://www.in.gov/dnr/files/LMBV.pdf http://www.ct.gov/deep/cwp/view.asp?a=2702&q=474654&deepNav_GID=1620

Can Side-Imaging work shooting through the hull??? I think its been said that SI is only good at slow speeds, not while on plain.

Have you searched the web for " 18" Ram mount extension " I see one listed for $25.00 at http://www.sportsmans-depot.com/products/RAM-Mount-18%22-Long-Extension-Pole-w%7B47%7D2-1%22-Ball-Ends-%26-Double-Socket-Arm.html But it said the ball is 1" not 1-1/2"; there may be a listing for a 1-1/2" ball mount somewhere.

Here is a good thread on this subject. http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/112232-lock-n-stow-vs-transom-saver/ If you search the web on how to trailer your boat & motor ( and IMHO, you should) I think you'll find that small motors (5 - 15 hp) can be trailered down IF your trailer offers good ground clearance; larger motors should be trailered up with a good transom support.

What FF unit do you have (need an idea of the size & weight) and what type of boat & motor; lastly, do you currently have a RAM Mount setup? With all due respect, IMHO the base on the YakAttack is too narrow to support a common FF on a Bass boat while running WOT across a lake, the vibrations would destroy the base of the mount. Numb's mount however is nicely done.

X2 Here are some pic's of one of my rods after it was repaired. At my skill level, I can not tell any difference to the rods action. Close up of the splice. Full view of the rod; the splice is at the light switch. Another view of the splice.

Someone at Walmart likes you

?? What do you mean by "mess with it in the morning"??? My rods are clean and the U-40 is on its way, so is there anything we need to know before putting it on??

I learned something new today! I have to admit that I've never used a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser on cork before. As posted above, my tried and true way to clean rod handles was with Dawn dish washing liquid and a tooth brush. I have tried other types of kitchen scrubbers with not much success and gave up on them. But since others posted about the Magic Eraser I thought I'd try it just to see what they're talking about. So today I went out and found the Magic Eraser and gave it a fair shot on my last dirty rod. Well. I don't have any idea how the Eraser works, but it does work and works very well indeed. It was faster than my method and much less messy, in fact I didn't see any sign of soap action at all, the dirt just moved from the cork to the pad and then rinsed out of the pad with just a little running tap water. I'm impressed ! The Eraser is however not as effective on the reel seat and locking threads, I had to resort to the tooth brush and Dawn to get into the tight places; but that's OK. So thanks to everyone that suggested the Magic Eraser, I just learned something new today.... Now, when the U-40 arrives from Jann's Netcraft I'll finish the project.

X2, compression connectors have their place in this world (inside and out of the weather) but not in the marine environment. A solder connection is the best you can get, and will not fail in the future. Also, only use shrink wrap (the marine grade is best), tape can fail in time. The glue inside the marine grade shrink wrap seals and locks around the wires to keep air and humidity out of the connection so the connection doesn't oxidize, but if you solder oxidation is not a problem and the marine grade shrink wrap is icing on the cake.

IMHO, You should have a breaker on the red wire at the batteries, if you don't you should have one installed. Also, the Red and black wires should be 6 gauge, ONLY feed the trolling motor, and have as few connections in the circuit as possible. Unless you remove the TM from your boat at the end of the day for storage you don't need a plug & receptacle in the circuit, they're needless connections and a maintenance issue. If as you say "not electrically savvy and don't mess w/wires" have a qualified marine tech do the work for you, it'll be money well spent. But I would question why the marina took out your breaker; was it undersized or something wrong with it??? What safety did they leave you with? If nothing, don't go back to that marina. IMHO

I use the Mustang model made for BPS. If you look at how the inflater is constructed, it will not inflate until the unit is completely under water in such a way as to allow water to flow up into the trigger mechanism. There is a small white disk that will turn to mush in under two seconds when hit with water; when that happens, the trigger strikes the cylinder releasing the CO2. Rain water can not usually reach the disk to activate the system, but high humidity can slowly act on it - and set it off. So you have to take car of the PFD, don't leave it out in your boat when it's in storage. When I return home at the end of fishing, my PFD is one of the first items I take into the house. Each PFD comes with an instruction manual that explains how to care for the device - read it - it may save your life one day. Here is a good thread on this subject.... http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/116106-pfds-life-jackets/ The BPS PFD is less $$$ than the Mustang, and it is made by Mustang. Also, it's less expensive to re-arm; Mustang I think is around $70.00, BPS is around $35.00. You can buy the white disk for around $9.00 at BPS. (change out the disk every few years depending on your usage and the humidity in your area)

LOL, ya, what I have is in my teeth and my retirement watch.

OK, I'm with you now, thanks. BTW, what is the top speed for side-scan operation,, 25 - 35 ?? I haven't seen any spec's on that subject.

My condolences on your loss, that's a hard way to start a day. I hope you got your wifes permission before using her Carrot Stix, if something were to happen to that you'd never hear the end of it. Hope your back up to speed with your rods very soon.

Just a quick update on my recovery. I'm on anti-coagulation medication for life now, and taking shots twice a day until the med comes up to the serum level they want. I've seen my primary care Dr. and her staff several times, and my hematologist who is referring me to a specialist at the Georgetown Medical Center in DC. This is what we call "getting sucked into the system". They're looking at my lab work carefully; my D-Dimer reading is just under 5000, normal is 200-280; this reading tells us the clots are breaking down as they're reabsorbed into the body. (or something like that) Been resting as I don't feel like doing much of anything for the time-being, watching fishing shows on TV is as close as I can get to the water for now. Not going to take the boat out by myself until I feel much stronger. I really do appreciate all of your posts here; although I'd much rather be on the giving side rather than the receiving side. It's he** to get old; these are supposed to be our "golden Years", but as I've discovered, that just means these are the years where we give our hard earned gold to the doctors. Tight line everyone, catch one for me.

X2, you want the trans in clean water flow from under the boat. I'm not sure what your trying to say here about "half above & half below" X2, Without a better photo I'll go with Wayne's assessment. Your installation may only be off by an inch or so too high, but that's all it takes to get into the area of air turbulence from the transom. Do the ruler test to see where you are and adjust accordingly.

X2, As long as the jars are closed tight they're usually good. I've had old Uncle Josh jars with rusted lids that disintegrated when I tried to unscrew them with a pair of channel-locks, the contents were just fine.

Is that where the term poop-deck came from??? But I believe thats on the stern of a ship, I think? It's always interesting to learn where phrases come from.

I would wager that you would not wear one if you had to. Until you get much, much older.......

I've always thought the term "water Closet" makes a lot more sense than "Bathroom"; and I never understood where the term "Head" came from on ships. That may make for some interesting reading. However, I came to understand why some use the term "Bathroom" when I found the Japanese and middle-eastern people have just that - the whole room is used just for bathing, the toilet and bidet is in a separate room away from the bathroom. In these "Bathrooms" you can spray water everywhere and it doesn't matter cause the room is made to handle it, and there are no shower doors or curtains to deal with. The BassRoom on the other hand is nothing more than a tent that literally pops up when pulled from its pouch, but if it's windy you have to be careful because you've just deployed what amounts to a parachute and it can get away from you if your not paying attention. With all the times I've been told to "get a room", now I can say I have one.

If I recall correctly they use Dawn to clean crude oil off of birds and animals that were caught in oil spills. I use it and a toothbrush to clean all my real cork and synthetic material rod handles. I just wet the handle with water, dip the toothbrush in the Dawn and paint it on the handle and let it sit for a few minutes; then I wet the toothbrush in water and scrub the handle until clean, after that it's just a clean water rinse and a wipe down with a paper towel. The toothbrush gets down into all the little nooks and crannies of the cork, other scrubbers I've used just get the surface; the brush is also good for cleaning the reel seat area.

There was another thread on this subject that may help you. http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/117093-soft-plastic-organization-tips/