bill-sb

Ethanol and gas cannot form a chemical bond; that is why E10 fuel is formulated to be used within 30-45 days of blending. You can certainly add a product 5-10 days later and still get a good effect. The breakdown is not that sudden or catastrophic. After 30-45 days E10 fuel begins to break down, forming gums and other solids that can clog carbs or injectors. You should use a stabilizer for E10 fuel that will not be used for a month or more, Traditional chemical based stabilizers work, but they can cause the engine to run a bit smoky or balky. The trick with all fuel is to make sure it stays fresh and that it burns as completely as possible for max power and fuel economy, as well as a clean engine. As you can imagine, I prefer Star Tron as it does all the above (stabilization, cleaner burn, more power, etc), but our advice is that you whatever product makes you and your boat's engine happy. Water in E10 is another issue, No product can magically remove water or make it burn - the products making these claims are usually a form of alcohol or another emulsifier that actually degrades fuel quality. (alcohol is the problem, so adding more won't solve it) Run the engine often, turn the fuel as quickly as you can and you'll be fine.

We - Star brite, a new sponsor here on bassresource.com, manufacture a polish specifically formulated for restoring metalflake surfaces (Instant Shine with PTEF). It's designed to remove the oxidized.faded materials to restore the fresh surface beneath. To seal it and preserve it, it leaves behind a protective barrier coat of PTEF polymers to repel damaging UV rays to some degree as well as dirt and grime. It will leave the hull shiny and so slippery that it actually reduces hull drag. No, you can't use it as a toothpaste

Here's the good news: 6-month old gas is not "old" We have used 3-year old gas with zero problems. Yes, we treated it with our product, I'm Bill at Star brite, the makers of Star Tron Enzyme Fuel Treatment. We have moderator approval to help answer fuel-related or boat maintenance-related questions. As you can see from the banner at the top of the page, we are advertisers/supporters of bassresource.com Star brite is a 40-year old company that makes almost all of its products here in the US at our plant in Montgomery, Alabama. Our headquarters is in Fort Lauderdale, Florida. We make about 1,000 products under the Star brite brand as well as many more for companies that you would recognize very well. A few of them are also present here on bassresource.com We do not sell directly to consumers or to retaiulers, so you won't see us trying to sell you anything. We will be happy to provide information. You can ask us any questions you want to here or you can call our tech line at (800) 327-8583. In addition to fuel treatments we also make polishes, boat washes, motor oils, brushes, tie downs, and a lot more. Ethanol-blended fuel has its own set of issues. Some can be overcome, while others cannot. As an example, ethanol (which is alcohol) degrades some rubber and plastic parts and fuel lines, but not all plastic or rubber components. This is a chemical reaction and if it is going to occur, there is no fuel treatment or additive that can prevent this. Most fuel lines are now made to be much more alcohol-resistant than they were even a few years ago. The same applies to most new carburetor components. In Florida, we have been using E10 fuel for almost 4 years now, and we have learned how to deal with it. We have not given up and abandoned our boats for golf carts. Ethanol-blended gas includes E10 (10% ethanol/90% gasoline) and E85 (15% gas/85% ethanol) which can only be used in Flex Fuel vehicles. E15 (15% ethanol/85% gas) can legally only be used in cars and trucks manufactured in 2001 or later; it cannot be used in boats, motorcycles, chainsaws, older vehicles or any other non-road applications. There are many engine manufacturers actively fighting the expanded use of E15 fuel. It can possibly void warranties and will only make the problems related to ethanol more pronounced. Very few boat engine manufacturers allow the use of fuel with any more than 10% alcohol/ethanol. Ethanol and gasoline do not form a chemical bond, which is why the ethanol is added only when the tanker truck is ready to go to the gas station or fuel dock. E10 fuel is formulated to be used in cars and trucks (99% of the fuel market) and is designed to be used within 30 days. This is fine for most cars and trucks, since we tend to go through a tank of fuel every week or two - it doesn't have the chance to begin to degrade. However, if it sits for longer periods - and has not been stabilized - it can begin to degrade as gums and other solids begin to form. This debris is what can clog injectors or carburetors, resulting in engines that are suddenly difficult to start or which run rough. If untreated (unstabilized) ethanol-blended fuel is allowed to sit in carburetor bowls or injectors, it can form a film that will cause the engine to run rough or be hard to start. Water and ethanol do form a very tight chemical bond. While 100% gas cannot "hold" any moisure, E10 can hold up to .5% water. If the amount of water exceeds .5% (note: this is .5% - NOT 5%), a situation known as phase separation can occur. This is where the water and ethanol mixture weighs too much to remain in suspension with the gas, so it falls to the bottom of the fuel tank. When the engine draws in the water/ethanol mix, it can run rough or stall. This water can also affect engine components such as fuel pumps. No fuel treatment or additive can magically make water disappear from E10 fuel. The ones that claim to do so are often an alcohol-based formula that emulsifies water. Emulsifying is not the same as removing - the water is still there, but is now clumped in big droplets that will not allow for a complete burn of the fuel charge. This simply means the engine won't run well and will see large formations of carbon deposits. The FAA and DOD forbid the use of emulsifiers in aviation fuel. You should not use them in a car or boat engine, either. Emulsifiers degrade the fuel quality and negatively affect its combustibilty. You need to look at the ingredients of the fuel treament you are using with ethanol-blended fuel to make sure it does not contain alcohol (if the ingredient is listed as IPA it's isopropyl alcohol; if it ends in "-ol" such as methanol, it's an alcohol) Review the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) of the product prior to using it in your fuel. The MSDS should be readily availalble online. If it is not, or if it lists all ingredients as "proprietary", you should be concerned. It's ok for some percentage of the ingredients to be proprietary, but not 100% of the ingredients. Ethanol is a very effective solvent, which is why the first time you run E10 fuel in an engine that has previously run on 100% gas you can see bits of varnish clog injectors, carb jets or fuel filters. This varnish is usaully all removed by the time you run the 2nd or 3rd tank of E10. Ethanol does not provide as much energy (BTUs) as gasoline, so by diluting the gas with ethanol, the engine cannot develop as much power (hp) or fuel economomy as it did when buring 100% gas. While there are problems, there are soutions, too. Use the fuel as soon as possible and use a fuel stabilizer. You need to do more than just stabilize, but we can go into that at a later date.