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Miller's Ferry 8

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  1. I’ve painted the clear blanks before but I would like to get into making balsa crankbaits. Where do you guys buy your wood from? I’ve seen some online for cheap and other stuff that cost $40 for a 4”X3”X12” block. What are you guys using?
  2. I should’ve specified I used to paint a lot and had a cheap like $20 one and it would stop up a lot even when adding water to the paint. I was hoping to go to something another step up this time. What would you recommend less than $100? I’m thinking less than $100 and I use acrylic.
  3. What is the best airbrush for painting crankbaits?
  4. Anyone else on here fishing the FLW BFL Regional on Wheeler in a couple weeks?
  5. I'd say, if the fish that swam under the dock wasn't a toothy fish, that the less line you have out the easier it is to break. The more line the more stretch therefore the line stretches and absorbs some of the energy. The line being as close as it was to the end of your rod had virtually no stretch. The fish was pulling with greater force than 17lb and the rod wasn't able to absorb the amount of energy it needed to minimize force on the line. Sorry if that's more than you bargained for. I'm an engineer
  6. I guess I'll have to give that a try. On Lay, Mitchell, and Jordan they always seem to elude me. lol
  7. I'm a former college angler myself and I will be fishing a BFL there next weekend. I will be practicing Saturday during y'alls tournament. I am planning on fishing breaklines and humps. Should be some staging right now in those areas.
  8. I do pretty well on the Alabama River catching spots. However, the Coosa River kicks my butt every time! How are these guys bringing in 18lb bags of spots? On the Alabama you simply find a good laydown with current. That technique on the Coosa has not worked for me thus far.
  9. Yeah I have actually used Hackney's technique at Lake Seminole. The grass mats are so thick that it is the only way to break through. A 2oz weight and a nice jerk down when the bait is at its peak. The heavy tackle is required in grass like that. You'll never get them out otherwise.
  10. I actually found some glitter at Wal-Mart that is very fine. It works great. Like you said, you can barely see the glitter just when the light comes across it.
  11. I have been airbrushing crankbaits for a year with a cheap air brush from Harbor Freight. I am looking into getting a more up scale one now that I am more advanced in painting. I want to keep it under $100. What brand is a good one to get?
  12. BOSS makes some nice ones and they are cheap too. You can get 10 for $5-$7 (depending on weight) You'll find them on fishingskirts.com
  13. On a shallow lake like this its all about the cover and the make up of the bottom. In the hotter months I'd fish brush piles or rock piles in the 6-7 feet range. Shade also plays a huge factor on these lakes. If you find shade its almost guaranteed there is a fish in it. Especially if its the only shady spot on the lake.
  14. The best set up for punching is a 6:4:1 baitcaster, 7'6"-7'11" Heavy or Extra Heavy (depends on brand) with 30-50lb braid. Use the lightest tungsten you can get away with I use no less than 3/4oz though. Try to get it in there as quietly as possible. Make sure you peg the weight. Then in spring and summer especially use a punching skirt along with a stout flipping hook and some sort of plastic. Just get creative honestly. But the things you absolutely need are a pegged tungsten weight and the right reel and rod combo. Secondly, make sure your trolling motor (if you need to use it) is on very low speed and your electronics aren't on. The sonar clicking will spook them sometimes especially on a pressured body of water. Hope this helps. Go get em buddy. For any other questions just go to youtube.com and search "punching for bass". It should find some nice results for you to look at.
  15. Not counting gas probably $2000 or more. Having a partner to split cost helps tremendously.

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