skeletor6

The Veritas does not match the AVC70mhf in terms of sensitivity. That is something I would look for in a jigging/t-rigging rod most definitely. You do not want to go inexpensive on a rod where bottom contact techniques are implemented. I am assuming that you do not want another 7' mh rod since you already have one? So that takes the avid mentioned out of the discussion.Too bad because it is a nice rod. You also have a discount that you have mentioned before. I would use that to get a Dobyn's Champion in the length, power, and action you want. It will balance well and have excellent sensitivity. Furthermore, it will be a rod that If you are patient I would wait for Phenix to release its m-1 series rods, or for the new Shimano Cumara's to come out. There are plenty better rods than the Veritas at your price point. If you are looking for value go with the veritas, it is inexpensive. With that said, Very quality rods can be had for less than $200. Once you get your hands on a quality rod you will understand why people are willing to pay more for a more expensive rod.

You are right, I am seeing a common theme here. I can't afford the boat #1 listed on the second set of boats. Yeah the second boat I am actually really interested in unless there is a reason I shouldn't be. I spoke with the guy and he is willing to let me test drive and has answered all of the questions you guys told me to inspect. So, I will have to inspect these in person for myself and with my mechanic, but he says they all are in working order and without nay problems in all aspects mentioned. Him willing to test drive is a +++ How much do you think that boat is worth? He has it listed for $1900, is that considered a flat bottom boat? I'm guessing its not a glasser. Yeah you are right about boat #1. It would cost way too much and is out of reach. Why should I not consider boat #2? It seems pretty decent. Thank you for the greatly informative post. I have saved these comments as a document and a printout that I will bring to all inspections. Thank you for writing it in a way that I can understand, since I am new to the terminology. Everything you mention makes since and your philosophy is consistent and in line with the philosophy I need for this purchase Just curious, since I will be mostly fishing 100 acre lakes and I will not be taking it out on lake michigan or any 9 mile lake....would it be better to get a flatbottom? Getting into those tight areas I feel is great for catching fish. The only thing I encounter is going into shallow weedy areas. I have not encountered going through rocky bottomed, or having any wood obstructions. The glacier lakes here in michigan are pretty safe boat wise. Look forward to hearing your comments on boat #2 posted on ebay. I'll quote the guys response. "Mike The engine runs fine I welcome you to put it in the water and check out all systems. You are also welcome to have a compression check or any other diagnostic done as well. The hull is in excellent condition and the deck is solid no dry rot what so ever. It has all been inspected. I do not have a cover so the seats are the only questionable area. These are easily replaced for a nominal cost if you would choose to do that. The trolling motor is perfect and the steering is excellent as I maintain all the greasable fittings regularly, as well as the bearings on the trailer. My reason for selling is that the transmission went out on my truck and it is $1800 to replace with a rebuilt one and due to family employment issues I find myself financially unable to come up with the funds otherwise in a timely manner."

Have you ever tried KVD line conditioner? And as I mentioned earlier, if you buy the wrong fluoro, you will get a very bad impression of it. What fluoro did you try? There are some very manageable fluorocarbons out there. Usually, there is a trade off between manageability and the stretch of fluorocarbon. An indirect relationship between the two. KVD line conditioner greatly improves the manageability of fluorocarbon. The line is just ridiculously inexpensive and is very versatile. I actually have been using yozuri as my backing to fluoro and braid. Yes, you are absolutely correct on the strength of yozuri, it is almost double what it is listed as. It helps to make it a great choice for spinning and casting applications. You are correct about knot tying and fluorocarbon. The line in general takes more maintenance. I am in the same boat as you, I have not had a problem with breakoffs. I've been tying a pitzen knot without any issues once so ever. It is an easy knot to tie also. SpiderWire's EZ Fluoro is anything but "EZ". That line is absolutely terrible, if you do a search you will see so many bad reviews, you should give yourself some exposure to a quality fluorocarbon line. If for nothing else, just to get that memory of Spiderwire out of your mind. That stuff is completely unmanageable. If I were you I would go with yozuri first though, if you dont like it you will not be out much and have 600 yards of backing for the expensive fluoro that you will soon by thereafter! I can't speak for RW, but I will say that you can use that line for just about anything. It is very versatile and tough. The only technique I would not use it for is topwater, because it does somewhat sink. I advise you to go on ebay and get the 600yd spool of your choice. They will have the color you want. I got mine from there and had no issues with integrity.

What do you guys think about this boat? http://cgi.ebay.com/...9#ht_2144wt_754 It does not have a motor, but seems like I could maybe put a cheap one in. Why would a boat not have a motor? That is confusing. If I could get that for ~$2500 it seems like it has future potential and value. What do you think? And this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/16-1990-Procraft-w-trailer-60HP-Mariner-Minkota-elec-motor-2-fishfind-MORE-/271081553777?pt=Fishing_Boats&hash=item3f1db83f71#ht_500wt_1182

Thank you for your comments. These are all things that I would not have checked and/or things that I do not believe my mechanic would have looked for specifically. I really appreciate you taking the time to go over the details with me, it is much appreciated. I see the issues that could come about from the failing of these tests. Could you explain what exactly this process is and accomplishes? "If you buy it, replace the water pump impeller and change the lube in the lower unit, and pack the wheel bearing on the trailer the very first thing" By changing the lube do you mean giving it an oil change? What is the water pump impeller? What is packing the wheel bearing on a trailer? What exactly should I look for to know the integrity of the trailer is there? Your last statement I completely agree with you. I should not be in a hurry that is where mistakes are made. I have seen this happen many times with people buying cars. In regards to your descriptive details as for what to look for your. You and Keith did an excellent job describing what I need to do. I will pass all this information along to my mechanic. Although I am not familiar with all the terms you guys used, a quick diagram search will surely clear those issues. To basically summarize what I feel you guys are making sure I check. 1.) I do not know how to do a compression check, but I feel that basically has to do with the fluidity of how the motor runs. I feel confident that my mechanic will be able to diagnose the motor pretty well. 2.) The boat specific parts where you guys are talking about the 'transom' and is new terminology to me. Is the process of checking those bolts, basically a way of making sure the motor is securely attached to the boat. If it did give, does that speak to problems with the motor, or the frame that holds the motor? Basically Should I just be checking to make sure there is no play in the motor at all during all operations? Such as the 45 degree angle trans pressure, and the tightening of the bolts? 3.) Walking around the boat makes sense, soft spots speak to rotted out/broken materials. As well as checking he integrity of the hull. How noticeable would fixes to the hull be? 4.) As far as the steering, basically as I steer left and right, it should move with consistent pressure each direction without any stoppage until it reaches its max turn? 5.) Should I ask the guy to basically take me out for a ride on the lake with it? I am not sure I will be able to do this, due to geographical concerns. Is it a terrible decision to buy a boat without test driving it on the water first? Or can one judge integrity from starting the engine on land and judging based off of those conditions? My last questions surrounds if I do encounter any of these issues? Should any failure of any of these tests immediately result in a search for a different boat? Do you guys feel with my mechanical knowledge that a glasser would be the best fit for the situation I am in? The idea of having one sounds like a dream to fish in, but it could also turn into a nightmare potentially. If all the checks pass, am I likely to be receiving a boat that will not cause many problems? (I am going off of probability here, obviously there isn't certainty) Thank you guys very much! I was not going to do any of these checks before buying, WOW

Just got in my 3rd New gill flip n swim and a pumpkinseed. These look very familiar besides the head color and also 2 new gill colored spinnerbaits. I guess we will find out if the bass think they are sunnies/bluegill! I'm going to experiement with different swimbait trailers and see what sizes work the best for the lakes. The hook on the Dirty Jig and the Flip N Swim look similar enough to accomplish the same task. The only difference is the color scheme that Mr. Allen uses is lighter than the one I am using. I dont think that will be a problem though. Would I be correct in assuming that the trailer (swimbait in this case) is what bass key in on the most in any jig? Or is it the skirt that makes entirces them? I am thinking that either 3.5 inch or 4 inch is going to be the right size I feel if I go smaller then I will have to trim down the jig strands. I will post back with results. Maybe I'll rig one rod up with the original california swim jig and one with the smaller version and see what kind of results I get. I dont know how many people regularly use swimbaits as trailers on jigs regularly, but the idea sounds fun anyways since I do not have much confidence in just swimbait fishing and I love jig fishing.

Some people want the best equipment they can use. Not everyone has a rod that is solely dedicated for frogging. A good flipping, heavy jig rod that is very sensitive, most of the time will make a great frog rod. If I am doing any kind of bottom contact technique, I want the most sensitivity as possible. I want to know exactly what my bait is doing at all times and to be able to detect the lightest pick ups and all surfaces I'm moving through. In general, you get what you pay for in rods. I dont know about the specific rod you are talking about, but I did not realize how crisp balanced and light quality rods were until I actually bought and went out and used them. Now after feeling what the nicest rods are like, I would not be able to get the same enjoyment out of fishing as I used to with a cheap rod. Expensive rods are not absolutely necessary by any means, but they are a pleasure to fish with and the quality differences are very noticeable in my hands. 7'6'' heavy rods tend to be tip heavy, especially the cheap ones. Having a balanced rod makes a world of difference. My most expensive rods are the ones that I will be t-rigging, jigging, etc. Most heavy jig rods and t-rig rods fall into the category as being a nice frog rod in addition. With that said, I would not drop $400-$500 on rod I am only frog fishing with, or only topwater fishing with. Like you I do not see the point if that is the only technique I will use it for. Still I would want at least a decent frog rod that has a nice tip to it and is not just a broomstick.

This one is very easy in my mind. I would not even consider the Citica if I could afford the Curado. It is an awesome reel. I don't have the citica to compare performance differences, but I am sure there is noticeable improvements in the Curado. It is that nice of a reel and can be had for a very reasonable price. What do you intend to use the reel for and on what rod?

Interesting hooligan, thank you for the heads up and the information on the upcoming cumara. Look forward to hearing some reviews when they come out.

I agree lol. That's interesting with the pamper's. Don't think I wanna get into that discussion. I'll make an offer on boat #2 and see what he says, if he entertains I'll go down there and look at it myself with my "mechanic" friend. I wish I had a more reliable motor expert, but that's all I got. What are the main questions I should be asking the guy who is selling boat #2. And what should I be looking at specifically to tell the integrity of the ride. Also, boat #2 does not have a trailer title, what does that mean?

I'll have to look into those, do they offer them in 3'' to 4'' range? How big a profile is this swimjig you are using? That's very convenient since I already have a 1/2oz flip n swim and 3/4 ounce flip n swim newgill. I got a 3/8oz on the way when you guys get the skirts back in stock. What color big hammer are you matching it with Mr. Chase?

Interesting, It's nice to see someone that is not so far away. I go to battle creek often actually. I have grub trailers and twin tail grubs and other swimming trailers. What I am looking for specifically is a swimbait style trailer to use on a jig. Those weights were in the ranges I was considering and going to test out. Thank you

Comment #1: That was what I was thinking. The guy saying "He's not a mechanic, but is sure it is an easy fix is troubling" I put it on the list due to reasons I will list at the end. I appreciate your evaluation of the comfort aspect. I have a girlfriend that I fish with and she appreciates being to chill while I fish. Comment#2: The secondary costs are what is the major concern for me. From talking to the guy. He said everything is in perfect working order. I am not an expert on boat prices or what one should get for a certain amount of money, but it seemed like a decent deal since he said everything was working and obviously there is the asking price and the actual price. How fast it goes, is not a huge deal to me. Being able to keep it for a while and possibly upgrade to tourneys in the future is. I don't want something that is going to be a hassle. My mechanical knowledge of boats is very novice. Comment #1: Thank you for your comments as well about comfortability and needing a bilge! Yeah, I told the guy he was asking way too much. I inquired about it for reasons I'll post at the end. Thank you for pointing out the issues. Did not notice the ones you mentioned. It looked like it could be comfortable because of the decks and such and I could stand up and flip into places, but seemingly not so. Comment #2: I do know a good mechanic who could look at it. Although he knows a lot about "Cars" and older motors, he is not a specialist in boat motors. I do not know how different the two motor types are. The guy is claiming flawlessness in every gauge and in both the big motor and the trolling motor. He states the price is "Firm". Being the time of year it is here, I feel it is more of a buyers market which is why I am looking right now. I would say the average lake I fish are around 100 acres. I have not had the chance to fish lakes like you have mentioned where worrying about stumps, rocky bottoms etc. is a huge concern. That being said, we have ideas in common. At the time my main thing I am looking to do is a get a boat that I can fish for bass and fish reasonably well. Let this be known, I've been mainly fishing from a pontoon boat or a kayak and paddle boat. My main concern is having something comfortable and in my price range that I can troll around in and fish docks, cover, etc. Seeing that #2 was even in my price range was great. All of those additions (speed, body style, etc.) are added bonuses and if that is what I can get for my money. I would be happy. The lakes I fish are not very tough. I won't be taking it out to lake michigan mainly 100 acre lakes give or take. But I want to find new lakes to fish, so the flexibility in a bigger boat would be nice. Thanks for your inquiry Bruno. Let me try to explain my situation a little better so you can better understand where I am coming from. I do not have a lot of money to put into this investment. I said $2500 as being the absolute max. This needs to include the taxes I have to pay, and any fixes or additions to the boat in particular that I will have to do. I would like to get on the water more. I only get to fish half the weekends in a month and that is because I do not have a boat of my own. I am using friends/families equipment. If I could do it right and get something impressive I certainly would. At this point, I am a college student who is fishing as a hobby. I do not make money from fishing I do it as tradition passed down to me from my family and I simply enjoy it. I feel I would enjoy it much more if I made an investment and got something that would allow me to troll around and find proper fish holding environments, meanwhile being able to be much more suitable than a kayak etc. Gas money I am not particularly worried about, I do not plan to go flying around in the boat just for fun, my main goal is fishing. A 100 horsepower motor eats gas regardless and so does hauling the boat I understand that, but I can make adjustments there. Having to buy a new motor, having to fix a broken trailer are the types of events that are very problematic. That being said I will try to make this clearer. $2500 is the absolute max I can put into this. I put boat #1 and #2 up because they each had nice casting platforms and I feel I could utilizing the trolling motor to troll around in. Plus they are examples of two different styles that I have seen come up from my searches. I mentioned boat #1 not in equivalent comparison to boat #2. The second boat is much nicer and much more capable. Also, it is more expensive. I figure if I could get boat #1 for really cheap this may be the way I want to go (or a similar boat). Also, if I could get boat #2 without it being ridiculously expensive then I would be gracious to have a boat like that. The boat you listed Bruno from Central Michigan does look like a nice boat. It is listed at $3500, that means if he has trouble selling it he may entertain a much lower offer if he needs it gone. The time of year here in michigan is not great if your a looking to sell a boat. The lakes water levels are dropping and people are beginning to think about storing these boats. I have the ability to store and pull, I just need the right boat. Thank you all and I look forward to hearing your comments and recommendations with the added insight that was given. I appreciate everyone's input and the time given to help. Thank you.

I am going through craigslist and I am looking through different boats and have found a couple that I would like for you guys to review. I do not want to spend more than $2500 would like to spend closer to $1500 or $2000 tops. I figure this is a good time to try and get a really good deal. My purposes are for small lake bass fishing. Could you please look at the following two boats and tell me if they are worth the money and what I should offer? Considering the time of year here...it is a good time to buy one because most people are not looking forward to having to store theirs all winter so they are going relatively cheap. Boat #1 http://lansing.craigslist.org/boa/3332852871.html This boat has a motor that the guy says is not working properly but he is "sure that it is a small problem". Also, the tongue on the trailer is bent and there is not a cover for it. The work that is done on it looks all custom and he will include the trolling motor that can be seen. I do not think it is worth $2500, but at what price would this boat be considered a good deal? Boat #2 http://lansing.craigslist.org/boa/3272316051.html Everything on this boat seems to work, it has many more features and a cover. Nothing is wrong with the trailer or boat according to the guy selling. He said he is firm on $2500. What do you guys think? Thank you for all of your help!

Jigging and frogging makes me think you should get a high speed reel. Something like a 7:1 gear ratio. If you can get lews Brand New for $120 because of your sponsorship that makes it a really good deal. You can sell it down the road and be fine if you don't like it. Either do that or get a Shimano curado/chronarch 200e7. You can find them under $200 and these reels come with great warranties and have been tested and proven by many. There are many Lew's TP vs Curado/Chronarch debates. If you do a search you will get a lot of information on the two. There also is the Gen 3 revo's. I have no experience with them so I cannot give help there.

I don't think Mr. Allen's rig is too big or bad in any way. I just feel that I would get catch a lot more fishing using his idea and just downsizing it. The problem is fish just aren't as big in the lakes I fish. If I catch a legit 3lber I am happy, that's a large fish for the lakes I fish. So I would rather downsize it, catch a greater # of fish, and maybe hook on a big one too. I will check out those other products since I do like the action of their EZ SHAD. The big hammer's look nice and are priced well. What size flipnswim have you used and what do you think is best to imitate a bluegill and sunfish? What length big hammer would you consider using and would imitate a bluegill and sunfish best? Never seen a bait like that. Look's interesting I think I'll give one a shot. I like the idea of being able to work it slow and still have a lot of action. That can be helpful in using different techniques, since there is many ways that this rig can be fished. Or so says Mr. Allen lol Thank you. Yes, how Mr. Allen describes he says he uses a 3/4oz Dirty Jig made specifically for this technique. I have not decided on the weight I will downsize too, but will be less than a 1/2 oz for sure. He said he chose 3/4 ounce so he could fish it through grass very well....etc. etc. I am thinking a Northstar flip and swim, or a siebert grass jig would work just as well, A lot of it depends on how the hook presents the swimbait. That I can compare through testing since I actually have the "California Swim Jig" The thinner body would be helpful for creating a smaller overall presentation. I will try out the sizes you mentioned. Plus the big hammer looks like it could do the job as well. I'll just buy a few different types from what everyone has mentioned and experiment with different weights and lengths to see if I can create a "Mini California SwimJig".

X2 on the reel and rod selections. Great post ....if you can get a Shimano Stradic Cl4 when the deals come around. It is a sick reel.

Good point RW you should try out many lines until you find your favorite for each reel/rod combo. Yozuri is ridiculously cheap I paid $12 or $15 for 600yards. It was 12 pound line and pike were struggling breaking off my line while t-rigging for bass in pike infested waters. My buddies with braid and mono lost a combined 8 baits due to break offs with mono and braid. I lost only 1 with yozuri, it is some tough line that is forsure.

Yeah that is what I am talking about. Uttilizing the same exact ideology of Mr. Allen but downsizing the whole rig. He referred to the swim bait as being the primary action and the skirt of the bait being the secondary action. A good swim bait that is just smaller would be perfect. I understand that concept I have the larger version of this rig and have larger baits. Also I have all the trailers you mentioned, tons of rage draws, baby craws, chunks, paca craws chunks, single tail and double tail grubs, sweet beavers etc. I am looking for a swim bait to go as my trailer but having it be a smaller profile overall so I can catch a larger quantity of fish overall. Where I fish the bass don't get too bi, I would catch more fish with a smaller profile setup of the California swim jig. Thanks everybody for your responses thus far!

Thanks Senko, That is a Clever idea! Have you fished the California Swim Jig before, or the smaller version you recommended? What size of the Keitech Swing Impact do you think would work best and what weight jig would be the best in your opinion. Going smaller profile obviously.

So, I know many of you have heard of the "California Swim Jig", where one uses a 3/4oz Dirty Jig Flipping JIg and a Roboworm EZ Shad as a trailer. Well that may work fine in California, but I am not in California and I prefer to by my jigs from Siebert Outdoors and NSCB. So, I figure I could use the Flip n Swim Jig from northstar, or the grass jig from Siebert, but I am stuck as to what swimbait trailer to buy? My whole concept here is that the bait is just flat out too big to catch fish at the lakes I am at. Fish do not grow as big here and I want to see if I can catch a decent number of fish with this rig. I like the idea of it.. I was wondering if there are any swimbaits that would perform similarly to the EZ Shad? The smaller profile the better! Do you guys have any opinions or ideas? Thank you!

If you are just using old school mono than power too ya. This guy wants to know about fluorocarbon. There are advantages to using it that have been pointed out People do catch more fish using fluoro. Try jig fishing rip rap with mono. I think you would catch more fish with an abrasive resistant fluorocarbon as opposed to your line getting cut up with mono. The fluoro vs braid debate will never end it all comes down to preference I like both. Fluoro is a little more expensive for me and I use Daiwa Samura (great stuff), but I think that if you got a cheap rod and are trying to bottom contact fish with it. Braid would be the best choice by far IMHO. Plus there has to be something said about all the pro's that are using fluorocarbon. Those guys know what they are doing. They use braid and mono too, but it just goes to show that fluoro does have a place and time when it should be used. I am sure they have the best access to the best line though and have a fresh spool of tatsu/shooter/toray/ or some other prototype nobody knows about. Flurocarbon is not like braid. You can't buy powerpro and be happy, you have to buy the high end fluoro's to get what you really expect. If you can't dish out for Tatsu, why dont you give Sunline FC Sniper a try. I heard the price/performance is pretty good for that line. Yeah it's like $25, but it should give you a pretty good idea if you want to pursue further with fluoro. At worst, you could use the rest as a leader when using braid. Roadwarrior just flat out gives great advice. I will say though that with yozuri, you eigher like it or you don't. If you do like it, you are lucky! The stuff is VERY inexpensive and can be put on just about every rod. That is very convenient! RW, do you have any information or link to any info about the amount of stretch yo-zuri has? Is it better than mono? I put it away a long time ago due to not liking its sensitivity, I have improved sense then, I might give it another shot just for fun. If you do go for FC and If can't dish out for Tatsu, why dont you give Sunline FC Sniper a try. I heard the price/performance is pretty good for that line. Yeah it's like $25, but it would be giving fluorocarbon an honest shot. At worst, you could use the rest as a leader when using braid. You should get some line conditioner. It makes a huge difference in manageability and isn't that expensive. It works good on yo-zuri too.

Like others have said, don't get the mojo. I wouldn't get a veritas for your purposes either. MXF is the way to go. The avid is an excellent choice those things are made to last too, but I am going to throw another option out there for you to think about. Not saying it is better than the avid just maybe another option. How about the Fenwick Elite Tech Smallmouth Spinning 6'9'' MXF (ESMS69M-X). I had a chance to use my buddies who was very happy with it and this rod is not bad at all, very sensitive IMHO. It has a split grip and is under 7' like you wanted and MXF. I think you can test one out at Gander Mountain too, and you can find these really cheap if you are patient. If it were me I would wait for a deal on an used avid, if you cant find one then jump on a Fenwick. I do not feel you will be disappointed once-soever wacky fishing with the Fenwick. If you would like, I could get you a detailed response about what its like to wacky rig fish with 5'' senkos on the reel I mentioned? I do think its a good idea to have a reel set up just for wacky rig fishing. That method just flat out catches fish period. And since it is spinning, you can hand it over to the wife or gf and let her catch a couple.

Oh man, that revo MGX is SOOOOO light and it is one of the coolest looking reels IMHO. It's ability to cast light lures should definitely be used. I'm not sure that is the rod I would have got for it, but the Duckett rods look awesome. Black on white looks sweet too. If it were me I would have gotten a Phenix recon 714c (PHX-C714MH) It has a measured weight of 3.61ounces. That plus your ultralight 5.4ounce MGX would have a rig that weghs 9.01 ounces! That is a super light combination especially considering you will still have a 7'1'' rod. That combo would make me Drool. Nonetheless, I am sure that you will be more than happy with your combination. It will likely look awesome, you should be getting a lot of compliments, and as others have stated, no problems casting once so ever. Have fun! I'm jealous

Your biases are well known. I have to say that for now, I've switched over to the dark side. I understand you now LMG! Great post and great advice! Your thumb can take the place of magnetic brakes, they aren't a big deal to me. I use them on my Lew's, but I am just fine without them on my Shimano. What rod are you looking to put this on?