jeff25

I started fishing a small creek arm a few weeks ago and got my first bite flipping a jig into some brush and though I was onto something, I continued fishing that pocket and one other one next to it and didn’t get a bite, probably 45 minutes to an hour. I then started fishing main lake points with crankbaits and caught 8 in several hours, so i stuck with that the rest of the day.

My top 5 biggest have all come during the middle of the day if that tells you anything

I used to make my own out of *** oz weight and put a snap on them but would always lose atleast 3 a year. I recently picked up a bass pro plug knocker for $10

I always start fast, switching between multiple different moving baits such as crankbaits, spinnerbaits, swim jigs, swim baits or jerkbaits deppending on water clarity,cover, bottom comp, and fishing multiple different types of structure and cover. I probably switch baits every 5-10 minutes. If I still don’t get bit I then switch to slower baits and fish the pieces of structure and cover slower with a Texas rig, jig, or drop shot.

I was reading through some old threads on here about whether to peg a Texas rig or leave it unpegged. The majority of people agreed and say to leave unpegged unless flipping. But most who have done a lot of studying/ watching underwater video, of a unpegged Texas rig say the weight only slide about 8-10” down the line from the bait. So my though was to put a bobber stopper on and slide it about 12” up the line when casting/fishing open water, then if I get to some cover or an area I want to flip, just slide the bobber stopper down tight to the bait. Does anybody do this? How does it work? For those who haven’t tried but know me than me, do you think it would work? thanks

I do have a 6’6” that I can throw the squarebills on

Looking at the pbs crankin stick they have. 7’6”mh and a 7’10”mh both are rated the same for bait size (3/8-1 1/2oz). Is there any benefit to to 7’6” over the 7’10”? I’m looking for a rod to cover from like a kvd1.5 up to a 5xd maybe 6xd. I believe the weights of those baits both fall within the rating for the rods.

Looking at getting a crankbait rod to handle mid to deep diving baits. Got it narrowed down to the bps crankin stick 7’10” mh composite, and the Fenwick elite tech 7’8” mh mod graphite rod. Both rods are rated for 3/8-1 1/2 oz baits. I can find both for arounyd $100, so which one is the better bang for your buck?

Most of the lakes i fish around where I live only have 2-4 feet of visibility. So Im wondering if I would be ok to flip with straight braid or should use a leader.

I got to thinking about this today and wondered if there is a rule of thumb you go by, for when you switch from straight braid to straight fluoro/fluoro leader. First for flipping, at what water clarity will you stop using straight braid? Second for moving baits, at what water clarity will you stop using straight braid?

16' fiberglass king fisher. 900lbs

Anyone

How deep of waters does it take to load/unload a boat? It is a pretty slow slope. I wadded out to where i thought the truck would be backed to where the gravel ends, and the trailer would be in about knee/thigh deep water. Earlier in the year there was a bass boat out on the lake, and yesterday there was a Jon boat.

I put on my muck boots and walked out as far as I could. I got right about where the gravel stops before it was at the top of my boots. That end of the lake around the ramp has a lot of Lilliepads if that tells you anything about the bottom comp.

I'm pulling it with an f350. Just didn't know if it would tear up the trailer. As long as the truck tires stayed on the gravel I should be fine. Was mainly afraid about the trailer getting stuck in the mud or on a tree root or something.