pcakes55

What's up guys, looking for some input on new Lowrance electronics for my boat. I'll need both front and rear graphs, but I have absolutely NO idea where to start. I'm lucky enough this year to have a Lowrance sponsorship and get 50% off, but I still want to keep the price relatively reasonable... So, what units do you guys run? Pro's/con's? Most bang for buck? What would YOU recommend?

Dobyns guy looking to try one of the following g.loomis spinning rods: 6'6" Med Hvy 783S JWR 6'10" MH 823S SYR Will be used for skipping senkos, wacky rigging and occasional tubes/soft plastics. Anyone have experience with either style rod's taper? (JWR vs SYR) Wondering which would be more fitting for those techniques.

I started in a Jon boat with a cooler livewell, then I progressed to a small aluminum with outboard/trolling motor and livewell, and now a bassboat. All I can say is start within your budget and comfort zone, no need to buy an expensive bass boat and try to compete in federation tournaments or the likes.

WOW...problem solved! Not sure how I missed that one, I even took the lights apart to check for shorts. Thanks!

So I have a '95 Champion with accessory lights in the storage areas and on the deck, they came installed from the factory. I'm a little confused on whether mine are wired correctly or not...Hopefully someone can chime in. The lights come on with the main power switch, but is this correct? I would assume they should only come on via the nav light/anchor light switch? My graphs and other accessories run off the main power switch (of course) but this means the lights stay on for the entirety of the day while the power switch is ON. Is this how it's designed??? Or did a previous owner mess up the wiring somewhere along its lifetime? To add to this, the gauge lights only come on via the nav/anchor light switch.

Looking for anyone who has pulled the trigger on one of these already to post their thoughts! Been waiting a while for this rod to come out.

Thanks for input guys, took the boat home last night. Pictures didn't do even do it justice. Think I got a hell of a deal

Yeah from what I've read its a little under powered, but that's okay with me. And by nearly brand new condition, I mean it has less than 100 hours on both the hull and outboard; and yes, it has been garage kept. Just wasn't sure if I was getting a decent deal or not. Below are some pics:

So I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a 95 Champion 190 dcx. The boat is in nearly brand new condition with a low hours 150 Fast Strike. Does $6500 sound like a good price?

Thanks guys, all good info here.

Looking for peoples opinions on the following models: Dobyns Champion: - 684CB - 685CB Orochi XX: -Jerkbait Special 6'8 - Spinnerbait Special 6'10 I'm trying to find an all around rod to pull double duty for topwater & squarebills. I'll be using mono, so my biggest concern is having a stiff enough rod to use with mono (hook sets, working walking baits) as well as a limber enough rod to keep a fish pinned with treble hooks. I have multiple XX and champion rods so I know both are great quality. If you have experience with any, please feel free to share your opinions on which will have the best compromise between stiffness and limberness WITH straight mono only.

That looks like a 1448. I would keep it simple with one trolling motor in the back. 1448 will be plenty stable for you and another guy; 3/4" ply wrapped with home depot indoor/outdoor carpet & mount it right on top of the existing seats. I fish out of a wide 14' vhull. My 12v 45lb front mount lasts all day (8-10hrs) during tournaments. I have a 2 bank MinnKota on board charger that works pretty well, though you will find mixed reviews everywhere on just about every on board charger.

What do most of you guys use to attach lips to hard baits? Any reason to use epoxy over super glue? If so - what brand? Thanks for any input.

Hey guys, I'm replacing the lip on my deps silent killer. I'm hoping someone can make some measurements of the lip and share what they are so I can recreate it. Any help appreciated - thanks!

Can anyone recommend a quality boat cover for a 14' v-hull? There are a ton of different brands and styles out there. My boat has a trolling motor mounted on the front, if that makes any difference. Thanks-

Anybody have dimensions of their Bac Rac racks? TW has length & width listed on their website, but I need more info. I.E. the distance between floor and bottom of the rack, etc.

Any ice out reports in southern NH/northern MA?

I got mine, brand new in box. However I would have been very disappointed if I received a no box, floor model etc. as some of you have stated. $100 for a discontinued reel is not a mind blowing deal in my opinion...especially a floor model

Thanks guys, I'll have to try them out.

What are you all using for your livewell pickup feed filter/strainer? Mine constantly gets blocked by whatever the fish spit up and I need to clean it off every 10-15 minutes during a tournament. Suggestions?

Anyone have tips for Monomonac Lake this time of year?

Wacky rig senkos, finesse jigs, shaky head...kind of an all around heavier finesse type of fishing. My only concern is that the action is too slow (or seemingly whippy) compared to the 7'4" DX rods which i own a few of.

Still looking for some peoples experience with this rod, shoot me a PM if you have any!

I would recommend the st croix 7'8 mojo cranking rod. I have a few of these and I love them, and they're right around $120

I have the XX perfect pitch also. It works great for frogging, but I also use it as a light flipping rod. I wouldn't spend $300 on a frog-only rod. Get something strong enough to drive the hooks, and make sure it's light/comfortable to use. A MH veritas worked fine before I got the XX