poisonokie

I do. I don't feel a mf has that much effect on walking the bait, at least on a stout rod, and help give you more distance on the cast as well as more forgiveness for trebles. Once you feel the weight of the fish you can really lay into it and pin the hooks well with a lower chance of ripping the bait away.

I use braid for everything with leaders when necessary, so I use fast rods for worms/jigs and flipping, mod fast for bfs and spinnerbaits/swim jigs/ vibes/squarebills, etc, and glass composite for cranking. If I used straight mono, I would go ex fast for jigs and fast for spinners, but as it is now I don't like ex fast rods for anything.

Bet that 7'2" mh glass tatula would be right up your alley. I want one for bigger cranks and topwaters myself.

That's me too. I use a 7'1" MH/MF with great results.

Yeah, but you really don't fish spinnerbaits/chatterbaits/swim jigs the same way you fish jigs, either. They benefit from longer casts and reeling/sweeping hook sets and there's rarely any slack to take up before setting the hook or a reason to dead stick very much. With a jig, once you feel anything the fish has the bait and you need an immediate hook set, with spinnerbaits on the other hand, it's better to make sure the fish has the bait so you don't pull it away from them with a jig type hook set.

yeah, especially for $142! Love that reel. Need a 203l now...

That's why magforce rules, especially magforce 3d. I wish Daiwa would implement that on every reel.

I think it has more to do with ergonomics than gravity. I usually sidearm everything and swing the lure around in a circle before letting it go. That way the rod is doing all the work and my thumb is in a better position to control the spool startup and my wrist is in a better position to control trajectory. If I want more distance, I put more arc into the cast rather than more power behind it. That works especially well with flatsides and vibes as the shape of the bait actually generates lift when it's oriented horizontally and adds distance. Now, that's not to say that I never launch baits out there, but there's definitely more potential for backlashes and miscasts into trees or onto shore. It's just a more haphazard way to cast. Sometimes while fishing from shore it's necessary to overhand because of trees/weeds etc, but otherwise I don't see an advantage and oftentimes you're better off with a good pitch in that situation anyway. Too bad Newton and Einstein were too busy solving the mysteries of the universe to be avid anglers!

yeah, I'd say at least a 6.3:1. 5.x ratios are better suited for standard and deep cranking. This setup should double as a good trap/spinnerbait setup as well.

A pool cue has more sensitivity than a mh ugly stik

I have had quite a bit of time with that rod, along with 3 others, and I like it best with spinnerbaits, swim jigs, squarebills, traps, and things of that nature. Moving baits that benefit from long casts, sharp hooks, and reeling hook sets. I find the action too heavy for standard cranking duties. It is very sensitive and crisp with a mod-fast action and a heavy backbone. At less than 4oz, the rod itself is lightweight overall, but benefits from an ~8oz reel as it is a bit tip heavy. You want a heavier duty brass geared reel for the techniques thus rod was designed for anyway, so it works out great. I use a 6.3:1 ratio t3 ballistic with a 100mm handle on mine with excellent results. If you use braided line, it makes for a good worm/jig rod as well, but I prefer the better balance and faster tip of the 6101mhfb for those techniques. Overall, it's an excellent rod that goes for way less than what it's worth in comparison to other offerings like Loomis' e6x for example. In short, you'll love it. Tight lines!

Thank you, sir. I thought it was nice. Other than a few small dings it's in mint condition with the box, the plastic shell it sat in, the schematic, and manual. It even had what I assume was the original mono spooled on it. I stripped that off, cleaned out all the old grease, which was like syrup, oiled up the leather drag washers, lubed everything else, spooled on some 14# trilene XL, mounted it on a browning silaflex rod, tied on a plug, and found that not only does it reel smoothly, but casts surprisingly well for a 40? year old reel with zero bearings and the simplest possible centrifugal brake. Don't plan on actually using it, just a fun winter project. And I supposed I could call it classic instead of vintage, but you can get a classic millionaire built yesterday, so you'll just have to feel old.

Anybody know the order in which millionaire models were released? I.e. 3R, 3RM, II, IV, V, etc. I know the Millionaire V was released in 1972 from a print ad I found, but that's it. Trying to find a date range for this reel in particular:

I second the 6101MHFB. It's 3.7 ounces, balances just right with a tatula reel, and would be great for all the techniques you listed.

San Diego Jam!

Even k micros aren't too micro, like stupid micro like others are. But yeah, those small caliber Ti K guides would be well suited for any bass rod.

The bright green super slick holds its color fairly well. Definitely helps detect bites and you can always tie on a leader or intermittently color it to camouflage it. If you can't see your line, you'll miss those slack line strikes.

lol, d**n, bill. What are you mixing your moonshine with, anyway?

Right on, brother. Did you do that to the ballistic you sent me?

maybe the ends of the spool shaft just need oil

It should be, or it shouldn't but it is?

Does the same go for rotors? My T3 does this occasionally ever since I installed an SV spool. Doesn't seem to affect performance but can be irritating.

get a load of the brass levelwind gear.

Tell them to make a 10x14x3 as a replacement for the plastic drag collar on TD Lunas next