SFM186

fixed up the bottom yesterday. ended up having to use some fiberglass afterall. i did weld some plastic into the bad spot, but i just didn't trust it 100%. i added some goop and mesh from a bumper repair kit i had. it was kinda like jb weld. that, combined with the mesh did a nice job of sealing it up and giving it even more rigidity. after that, i applied 4 layers of fiberglass to fully seal it and make it hard as a rock. the only thing i might do now is lightly sand this, and maybe hit it with a squirt of spray paint just to pretty it up a little. i'd like to add some sort of hard plastic over this just to help with wear from dragging, but i don't know what i could use. anyway, here it is.. plastic bumper repair kit after glassing also have a question about the drain plugs in the front. i have 2 different kinds, one is red and the other is black. different "stems" or "handles" on them. and the black on doesn't seem to seat as well as the red one. are they supposed to both be the red ones?

i might, if the the plastic welding fails.

picked up this bass raider 10e a while back for a song. just something to take the kids out fishing in (one at a time of course). it needs a few things to say the least. the bow area had come apart, scuff marks worn through in the rear from dragging, and no seats or brackets. yesterday i started on the bow area. here's how it looked, the before picture. cleaned it up and applied some 3m 5200 fast cure marine adhesive, then clamped it together to set. i don't know if the 5200 will actually adhere the 2 sections together, but i figured i'd give it a shot. if nothing else, it may keep some water out functioning like a gasket. let the riveting begin! i let the 5200 set up for a while and then began riveting this thing together. i started out placing rivets between the clamps. then remove a clamp, rivet it. then remove another clamp, rivet it, and so on until it was riveted all the way along the separation. i then applied some additional 5200 to the seam and across the top and bottom of the rivets. not the prettiest thing in the world, but it should hold together well and keep the water out. i'd like to find a piece of black plastic that could be used to cover that gap in the black trim piece. i also ran a bead of rtv silicon along the top and bottom under the trim piece for good measure. i also removed the wood "benches" to make room for the new seats and brackets i ordered. the next project will be attempting to plastic weld the deeper scuffs on the bottom that have gone through. i have some hdpe plastic that i plan to use as filler. we'll see how that goes.

great tip, thanks bomber. i think i'll use it a bit as-is and see if i run into any problems like that. if i do, i've got just the right piece of hose to cut.. i knew if i kept it, it would come in handy for something! and the wife calls me a pack rat...

thanks ac. i emailed pelican and asked for a replacement, they're going to send one out for free. figured i'd rather have it than not.

question.. just got my seat brackets in from academy sports. one of them is missing the black end cap on the footing. are these critical to keeping the bracket in the seat tracks? academy is telling me to contact pelican, just wondering if it's necessary.

i have a 115 ho on my boat, absolutely love it.

hey all. just joined this forum because of this thread, tons of great info here! i just picked up a used bass raider 10e for $100. it needs some lovin, but i'll get it back on the water soon. i'll try to post up before and after pics of the work i'm doing. i bought this boat even though i have a 10ft flat bottom already, i've fished from them before and they're way more comfy compared to a row boat. i troll for salmon every weekend (using a much larger boat of course), but my 7 year old daughter doesn't really like that style of fishing. she gets bored with it pretty quickly. well she's been asking me to take her fishing lately so i wanted to get one of these, i think she'll like it much better than the old flat bottom. i know i will.