Way2slow

You will probably find you need to get personal with it. Tap it side to side to loosen it and see if you can get the blace of a screw driver under it to pry upwards gently while you tap it more. They normall make a machine fit into the housing, the flange just keeps it from working out. Remeber, these are all machined surfaces so get too personal.

To just jump in and say "upgrade the wire" is wrong. He may very well not need larger wire. First, I would be willing to bet if that's the factory installed wire, it's probably #8. That was the norm for those that didn't run the larger #6 wire to start with. He just said it looked like it might be #10, unless he works with it regular, he's totally guessing. Second, there's a lot of people that have to budget their fishing and spending close to $100 and the work involved might not come quit as easily to some as it does to others. Third, if he does that simple little voltage test, and there is no voltage drop at the TM end, it doesn't matter what size wire he has, it's big enough. We have beat the current draw and heat down to a pulp. If there is no voltage drop, there is no loss, if there is no loss, there is no heat to speak of. If there is no heat, there is no loss of power, making the wire in the boat perfectly suited for what he's doing.

This year, ZERO. Last year, 1. I was forced to take my wife's sister's son-in-law once. Year before that, ZERO. year before that, ZERO I basically don't like people and I diffinetly don't like them messing up my fishing.

I agree a larger wire is probably needed but acutally 10 guage can handle up to 40 amps and 6 guage can handle up to 75 amps without damage. Notice I said without damage and didn't say without heating up. Yes a 40 lb thrust TM running on max is right on the edge, if not slightly over. If the time is taken to do the voltage test I suggested, it will easily determine if he needs larger wire. If he's not getting a voltage drop, he's not going to be getting enough resistance to produce heat. The more the voltage drop, the more heat the wire will produce and the more performance he will loose. So, if he's not getting a voltage drop he has no problem and will see no loss in TM performance. I would also figure the original wiring to be closer to 8 guage than 10 guage.

If you have a good digital voltmeter, the next time you're at the lake, connect the DVM across the cables where they connect at the battery. Do this across the cable lugs, not across the battery. Run the TM on max for a short distance, measuring and making note of the voltage. Now connect the DVM across the TM cable lugs/connectors at the bow of the boat. Again make sure you are connecting to the cable in the boat and not after the connectors or anything else you have connecting the TM. Run the motor on max a short distance again. If the readings your get on the DVM at the bow of the boat are the same as the readings you got across the cables at the battery, your cable will work just fine. If the readings are less, even if only a few tenths, then your cable is too small and needs to be upgraded. One or maybe two tenths aren't going to hurt you much but anything more and you are loosing power. Let me say again, make sure you are reading each end of the cables, if you take the reading with connectors, circuit breakers or anything else between the meter lead and the cable in the boat, you can get a wrong reading because these items can cause resistance and loss of voltage, but that's not because the cable is too small, that's caused by bad connections or other parts too small for the current load. Don't try to do this at home, the motor has to be under a full load to do this check, free spinning it out of the water does nothing to load the motor.

Start filling it with water, water leak out just as good as it leaks in. Just be careful not to overload the trailer, you can add a lot of weight, real quick. May find that is not a rivet leaking, might just be a livelwell, or hose to it or one of the pumps.

Avid, Got Trojan to send me a charging profile on their AGM batteries. On your battery is shows you can start off with as much a 20 amps and charge it until it reaches 14.4 volts. Even starting off with 10 amps, you still want to charge until it reaches 14.4V, just takes longer. Then hold it at the 14.4 volts until the current drops to 2 amps or lower. Hold it at 2 amps or less and 14.4 volts until it reaches 104% charge. Basically hold it at two amps for a two or three hours. Then it would be maintained with the 13.6 volt float voltage. They do not recommend ever going above the 14.4 volts, which is what you would do to equalize a battery. This is why I recommended you get a computer/logic controlled "Smart" charger with the AGM mode. There's just not one of those little hot boxes like that Autozone, Sears, or any other brand in the county that can properly charge them. I tried posting the profile but I ain't smart enough for that. It's in a PDF program type file and I can't even get pictures posted with my IP.

Well, the wife tapping on the tach didn't do that. Yes, sounds like you've fried the rec/reg. The tach signal comes off the rectifier, so a bad rectifier will cause loss of tac signal voltage. A bad rectifier or requlator will cause loss of battery charging. This can be checked buy cranking the motor up on the hose and reving it up to 1,500 - 2,000 rpm and check the charging voltage across the battery, should be at least 13.8 and more like over 14. If the charging voltage checks good, check the tach signal voltage and see if it's good. There's always that slight possibility you just overheated it, yea riigghhttt!!. Before we do that though, you need to check your battery. If it has caps, you need to check the specific gravity with a hydrometer. All cells should read with a few tenths of the same. Now you need to charge the battery with a battery charger, let it sit 24 hours and read them again. They still should all be the same but at a specific gravity of 1.260 or greater, 1.275 would be the prefered reading. Anything less than 1.260, I would get a new battery, for me if it was less than 1.275 I would get a new battery, heck if I just fried my rec/reg, I would get a new battery anyway, and make dang sure all the connections are clean and tight. Bad batteries and connections are the reason for about 95% of the rec/regs going bad, they can also get the stator. Even though it's cranking the boat, if it won't fully charge the charging systems keeps running wide open trying to fully charge it, overheating the charging system and burning it out. It's not built to charge a weak battery, only replace what was used to crank the motor from a good battery. If you have sealed batteries, charge them, let them sit 24 hours and check them with a good DVM. Should hold at least 12.65 volts and can be 12.8 for a new battery. I've said many, many times, trying to run a old battery just because someone didn't want to spend the $60 or so for a new one is the most expensive battery they can ever have in a boat. If you don't maintain one properly, you should buy a new cranking battery every spring when you start using the boat again.

-Sounds like a loose needle to me also. If you have a voltmeter, you can do some voltage checks on the back and make sure it's getting a good ground. Yoiu should have a Ground (battery negative) a 12V positive that comes on when you turn the switch on and a signal lead that can be anywhere between about 3 and 9 volts depending on the rpm (you may have to switch to ac to get this reading). You also have one wire for the light but has not affect on tach.

Avid, I read your post again and even if you use that 10/2 charger until you get the right one, DON'T leave it on the battery. Disconnect it after 10 - 12 hours or put a light timer on it that will turn it off completely after about 12 hours. You can not use the 2 amp setting as a float charge, that's way too hot to leave on the battery for and extended period. Even if its an automatic cutoff model, the trickle voltage they have is too much. What happens if left on the battery over an extended period, the trickle voltage will overheat/overcharge the battery to the point that it will make the charger come back on, greatly overcharging and overheating it even more until if totally fries it. If it's not an automatic, charge it for four or five hours on 10 then cut it back to two for three or four hours, then disconnect it, but it's still a guessing game if you get it fully charged without a voltmeter to check it. Think AGM aren't a pain to properly charge, check this charge pattern out on a set of industrial GNB AGM's. This is why the commercial AGM chargers are hundreds of dollars and fully progammable. Charge at 20 amp/100 ah until it reaches 2.37 V per cell Charge at 2.37 Vpc until current is less than 2 amps/100 ah Charge at 2 amps per 100 ah to a max voltage of 2.55 Vpc Terminate charge 3 - 4 hours after the beginning of step 2. These particular batteries were a set of four group 27 six volts seriesed for 24V, cost $330.00 each and the charger was $480 but are intended to last approx 1000 cycles. That discharging them to 20% and recharging them 1000 time. If only discharge to 50% they could last over 1500 cycles. That would be 1,500 fishing trips for you. Basically what your doing in relation to your 12V, 100 aH battery is charging it hard until it gets to 14.22 volts, then holding it at that voltage until the current is down to 2 amps (3 - 4) hours and charging it at 2 amps or less until it reaches 15.2 volts. Then you would drop into a 13.6 V float charge where you would leave it until you got ready to use it again. One note though, the charging at 15.2 V is to equalize the cells and Trojan does not recommend to equalize their AGM's

Avid, Both the links I gave in my other post were three stage chargers and both have the AGM mode that can be selected. I would not use that 10/2 Autozone charger if you want to get good life out of that battery. I would see if they wouldn't take if back and check out Home Depot's Husky brand or see about finding the Schumacker SSC-1000A. Like the Trojan folks said, you really should stick to a three step Smart charger. AGM batteries charge at a lower voltage and require a higher float voltage than flooded cell batteries and those little hot boxes burn up enough fooded cell batteries, they will destroy your high dollar AGM so you will be lucky to get a couple of good years out of it. However, as I always say, it's your equipment and no one to tell another person how to take care of his equipment, just how I would take care of my own.

Well, for exactly $5000, last year I bought a very nice 99 Javelin Renegade 20 dual console bass boat with a 225 Evinrude Ficht, Twin axle trailer with brakes. Boat was fully rigged and used on the CITGO BASS trail but only had 125 hours amd just had new carpet installed. Boat was used by Don McDowell if any of ya'll are from AZ or happen to know him. Would post a picture but only get the box with the little red x when I try. Guess it's something to do with my IP.

Wouldn't be a 6V about the same size as a group 27 rated at 195 AH on a 5 hour rate. I've got four good AGMs if anybody needs them. These electric motor fishermen should love them. Will give you 24Vs rated at over 200 ah based on a 25 amp draw.

1 800 537 8244 I think this was their main office but I think I called this number for their nearest dealer 1 770 530-1290. I've got a ton of notes written and a lot of numbers on the same page but think these are the right ones. The 770 number should get you what you need to know.

No, the battery does not determine the float voltage, that is stickly controlled by the charger/maintainer, which is too high for a standard flooded cell deep cycle battery, should be approx 13.2. Normally, AGM's and gels will have somewhere on the label they are gas valve regulated. If you can shake it and hear water sloshing, it's just a sealed flooded cell battery. I just got through calling GNB to identify four batteries of theirs. The label said they were gas valve regulated but had nothing about which they were, but knew they had to be one or the other because they were installed laying on their side and those are the only two kind you can lay on their sides.

George, Sorry but that is the last thing you want to get. That is your standard automatic charger, plug it and leave it and you will probably fry the battery. As a minmum I would go with one of these http://www.batterychargers.com/details.cfm?prodid=SSC%2D1000A&catid=2 This is another http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US/jsearch/product.jsp?pn=100375932 I would think you could do a search on line and find them a little cheaper. Keep in mind, I've not used either of these chargers so can't say for sure just what their charging and float voltages are. A good DVM will let you check that and if they are not right, take them back. The chargers I used are commercial and cost hundreds of dollars, so don't think you want to go that route. I do swear by my little BatteryMINDer's though for maintaining a battery I don't use reqularly. Those are high frequency and I can take the cover off and adjust the float voltage to the exact voltage the battery manufactor recommends.

Make sure you get one that says it's a Smart or Intelli charger. You should get one thats rated for approx 10 amps and it's better to get one that drops into a float mode. It should also have settings so it could be set for AGM batteries. To get the max life from your battery, the charging cutoff voltage for an AGM is approx 14.4 volts and the recommended float voltage is approx 13.6 volts. THese are very different than your standard flooded cell lead acid deep cycle batteries and your standard battery charger will charge it to a voltage much too high before cutting off and most float voltages will be too low for AGM. A good charger will cost between $60 - $100, depending on where you get it and what kind of discount you get. Good and cheap are not two words that go together when it comes to chargers. Yes, you are right about the temprature, as the temp increases, you should decrease the charge rate and should not charge one if the temps are 130 degrees where the battery is at. With my onboard charger in my boat, I have an optional temperature probe stuck to one of my TM batteries so the charger automatically compensate for temp changes. I should also mention, the little extra you pay for a good charger will pay you back in the increased life of the battery. Properly charged and maintained with a good charger, that battery could last your a whole bunch of years. It's common to get 6 - 8 years out of one that's treated right. Fiugre less than half that from one with the wrong charger. That holds true even for your cheap Wally World batteries. A good, high frequency, Smart charger will give you about twice the battery life as your standard automatic chargers. Equalize one once or twice a year, keep in on the charger/maintainer, try to never run it down below 20%, don't let it sit disharged.

The reference you posted was correct for carburated two strokes but does not apply to all two strokes. Carburated two strokes soon will no longer exist. Johnson are about the only carb motors in production now and the Johnson brand will be BRP's four stroke line in the near future. These companies are not spending major amounts of R&D money on their DFI motors just to drop the line. The Evinrude two stroke will be around for many years to come. They have already gotten their emissions cleaner than most any four stroke on the market. Don't care how you slice it or dice it, no four stroke can match the power to weight ratio of a two stroke. Don't be surprised as the technology improves you start seeing diesel outboards in the states before many more years. Formula One racing has already proven it works in high performance applications.

You need to check a service manual. Most likely the dealer will have to make the adjustments. Most of the newer motors are ECU controlled and you can't just go in a turn a screw like in the old days. Everything has to be syncronized so if you change one setting, it affects several other.

Read everbody's post and what conclusion to we come to??? The same one any smart bass chaser comes to if he catches fish. There is no one set pattern or technique that constantly catches bass. Things can change day to day, even hour to hour, so you have to be able to recognize, understand and adapt if you're going to consistanly catch bass. A technique I use on slow bites sometimes is to let a T-Rig sit while I just jiggle the rod tip just enough to make the worm quiver, I may do this several times over a minute or so if I don't get a hit while jiggling, I suddenly pop the worm up and forward a foot or so. Many times the bass will hammer it just as I pop it, sometimes the hit will come on the second or third repetition. I've watched bass in shallow water while doing this and sometimes they will watch it and follow each hop before striking it. I've seen other times they will watch it while jiggling it and then haul butt the other way when I hop it.

Normally SS props provide a slightly better hole shot, and a little more top end but on your and a 85 hp motor, will you see a big difference? NO!!. Unless you've just got an extra $400 bucks to spend and feel like you must spend it on a new SS prop, I think you can find better uses for your money. There just will not be enough gain in performance to warrent it. If you had a big V6 with buches of hp and torque, you would probably see a noticable gain, but the smaller midrange motors usually see a much less the benifit. Now if drop down the small motors like the 25's and smaller, so many of them run such a sorry combo prop, a good SS on them make a pretty big difference.

I don't because it's rare for me to get into style of fishing where they could be used. What few times I'm ever in that situation, I just aim the boat into the wind and use the tm to control my drift as the wind blows me backwards. About the same as when I'm fishing hard current, I start upstream, aim the boat into the current and use the tm to control the speed backwards as the current pushes the down stream. Most of the stripper fishermen I know that fish live minnows us them because as most stripper fishermen will tell you, seems the nastier the weather, the better they seem to bite and sometimes the winds ripping down the lake at 30 - 40 mph and those big center consoles and pontoons rip right on along without a couple of very large drift socks. There are a handfull of us that don't use live bait so I've never needed them.

Avid, are we still talking about the canoe, or we moving up to a bigger boat. With the canoe, just about any hand winch on the market should pull that on the trailer with very little effort. If you're talking about something much larger, then figure the weight of the boat, then look at the capacity of the winch and go at least one of two sizes larger. With my Javelin, I don't think the front loop would hold in the hull to winch it on the trailer, no matter what size winch I had. That's when you starting looking at those plastic slides you can screw onto the trailer bunks if the boat is very heavy.

I remembered the name, I think these are what you're looking for. Just the gunwall mount has a rather large hook so I used the deck mount and the other parts I reused off my boat to mount them in the gunwall.http://www.thmarine.com/product.cfm?PRID=89. The deck 12" deck mount is the ones I bought for about $8.00 Might want to check this out http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0031035013618a&type=product&cmCat=search&returnPage=search-results1.jsp&QueryText=Rod+Tamer&N=4887&Ntk=Products&Ntx=mode+matchall&Nty=1&Ntt=Rod+Tamer&noImage=0 This is the ones I used, and the clip that holds it in the gunwall off my old ones. I notice these are the 18" and mine were 12", but it's no problem taking the end off and cutting them if your's are the 12", just be extremely careful lifting the little locks after you slide the sleeve back, the locks will break off.

This place has them in their Catalog show room but can't find them doing a web site search. http://www.thesportscenter.com/I just bought them for my Javelin there and they were less than $10 each (I think $7.95). I bought a couple of spares but they are in my boat and it's at the lake so I can't tell you what the brand names is. The have two styles, one comes with the flange ready to mount in the side of the gunwall but has a much larger hook on it than I liked. The other is the identical ones in my boat with the smaller hook but without the flange. If yours are the same as mine, there's a flat slotted plastic piece on the flange inside the gunwall that keeps the end from coming through the hole. The bungie has a screw eyelet on one end and a hook on the other and are approx 12" long. I just took that flat slotted lock off my old ones and used it on the new ones which were identical to the old ones in every way. If you call them about them, I think you will want the ones with the eyelet mount on one end and the smaller hook on the other end of the bungee and don't have the bow mounting flange.