Way2slow

Thats why I said to use a spray bottle with premixed fuel in it and do not use starting fluid. That spray bottle is probably putting more gas and oil than the carbs would. I have always prefered minimizing my time and money, just see if will run and is worth spending the time and money on it.

I personally would rebuild the carbs if you know how. The reason there are a lot of small passages in it that can be obstructed but and there’s a lot more to them than just spraying some junk in them and putting them back together. If that’s your way, just run 2 ounces of Seafoam per gallon of gas for the first tank full of gas and avoid running WOT for more than a minute or so, then 1 ounce per gallon for the next couple. One note, when the fuel mixture inters the engine it enters into the crankcase first, lubricating the crank, bearings, and pistons pins first. It then travels up the outside of the sleeve to the intake ports where it is blown into the cylinder above the piston so everything is being lubricated when the motor is running.

Follow the basic. It sounds like you have sprayed more than enough oil. Before doing anything else do a compression test. with all the oil you said it's probably 130 but the main thing is both cylinders are close to the same and over 90psi. Lower than that will make it hard to start. next make sure it's firing on both cylinders. Take both the brass main jet access screws out and see if there's a heavy black buildup on them. If so, you will probably for sure need to rebuild the carbs before putting it in service but not now. Hook a tank to it with 50:1 GAS/OIL and pump the bulb to flush the system for several ounces of gas. Now crank it over and see if the fuel pump will pump fuel out the carbs. Put the brass screws back in the carbs. Put LU in tank or hook muffs to it for water. Use a spray bottle of premixed gas (not starting fluid) spray a little gas in each carb and see if it starts. If so, you might have to keep spraying a little gas in carbs to keep it running for a minute or two to make sure it does run and not knocking and then do another compression test. Drain the LU and make sure the oil is in it and it's black. Refill with fresh oil if good. All this is just to see if you have a motor worth spending money on. If so, now you can start spending your money. Two most important things is rebuilding the carbs and water pump (that's a must). Inspect the wiring and make sure it's not breaking all apart and replace the rubber fuel lines if they show signs of being hard and cracking. The rest is just replacing the obviously bad parts and a set of spark plugs, or just how much money you want to throw away. A quick how it works. Gas and oil is premixed unless you have oil injection. When the piston in one cylinder is going up the other cylinder is going down. The reeds are closed and it's pressurizing the crank case under it. As it's gets down enough the top of the piston opens the exhaust port. That piston that was going up is pulling the reeds open to recharge the crankcase for that cylinder. Once it starts back down the reeds close and it's pressuring the crankcase. When the dome clears the intake ports the pressure forces the gas charge up toward the sparkplug and push the exhaust gas down toward and out the exhaust port.

First off, a two stroke has no oil in it to send off for testing. As stated hours are not the only determining factor for what condition a motor is in. Proper maintenance and running a good quality, name brand oil, good gas and proper maintenance are the critical factors. I’ve seen motors that were used up in 500 hours running cheap oil and no decarbing them and I’ve seen motors still going strong with 1200 hours with good oil and proper maintenance. Now I have heard claims of the Coast Guard running 2 stroke motors for 3,000 and 4,000 hours but I find those hard to believe. I had a friend that ran a fleet of commercial boats with 200hp OMC’c and he was usually having to swap them out at 1,500 to 2,000 hours because of maintenence cost and brake downs. If a proper leakdown test shows the compression is within 10% and especially within 5% the power head should easily be good for another couple of seasons.

Most of the mid 80's to early 90's OMC V4's and V6's only motors only had about 85 pounds of compression, give or take a few pounds. When the producers started going to this junk they sell for gasoline now, OMC went overboard with allowing for it to start with. A motor can run 130 psi compression on good, fresh 87 octane gas but how many people actually always keep good fresh gas in their tanks. Gasoline loses octane quickly, especially when the boat is left sitting outside in the sun and heat and people let that S**t sit in their tanks for months on end and still run it. They had to allow for that. With the better ignition control systems they have now, they have bumped the compression up a lot on them. It's amazing how many people wonder why they melted a piston. lost compression or engine blew in the spring after running that gas the left sitting in the tank all winter (or just runs like crap). Do yourself and motor a favor, when you know you are not going to be using the boat for a couple of months, take the gas out and run it in the car (if not premixed) or lawn mower or something if premixed.

He PM'd me but I just read it today and I sent him some info that should get him going in the right direction to troubleshooting it.

If you take it easy and not try to run 60 - 70 mph and don’t tow in drive, stay out of the over drive gear, and you should have no problems. Back when I 16 I towed a 14ft glass boat with 65hp Merc on it about 6 miles to ramp with a VW a lot. I had to replace the clutch a couple of times because of the steep ramp. If you are feeling the drag of the boat behind you, slow down util you can hardly tell it’s back there.

Never did the Kayaks so can't help you one bit there but I have spent A LOT of hours in a 17' canoe. In that, when by myself I fished sitting backwards in it. I sat in the front seat facing the back of the canoe. That does much better at distributing the weight so you only need a TM battery or some other weight to keep it from wanting to turn around on you. Also as mentioned, learn to paddle with one hand, and from one side of the boat.

If you want the boat to stay in position, you have to put out two anchors. I drop the back anchor, then continue forward until I have about twice as much rope out as I need, then drop the front anchor. I then use the back anchor rope to pull the boat back until the boat is about halfway between the two with a good V. I also use mushroom anchors about twice as heavy as "what's recommended" to be sure it stays. Theres nothing like finding a good bream bed and then have your boat drift into it.

A couple of things, after pulling the lower unit off, and it's still not wanting to spin. Pull the head off and see what the cylinders look like, see it they are rusted. Most likely they are if it was not wanting to spin after taking the LU off. If the sleeves are rusted plan on pulling the pistons, rods and crank out to inspect them for rust. Any rust pits on the bearing surfaces pretty much makes that part junk.

It's and easy motor to work on. The most likely place you can screw up is when putting it back together. The big end of the rods are broken off after they are made. When bolting them back together the two halves have match perfectly or the bearing can catch on the mismatch and destroy the rod and crankshaft. The factory used a special clamp to hold them when tightening them, and even though I also have the tool, I have assembled a whole bunch of them without it, just be care and pay attention. IF you ever torque one down that's not in perfect alignment, you will probably never get to align with out that special tool. If the bearings are not blue from being hot, and no pits in them or the crank, they can be reused without any concern. The gasket, seals and rings (I always hone one and replace the rings if I take them out) are all you really need to tear it down and reassemble it. I usually replace the bottom main bearing because it's a ball bearing and if it happens to go bad, it can ruin the crank and block. IF, you have one bored there is some extra work that has to be done with the ports, but I doubt you will go there.

New motors once ran good. That doesn't mean anything after one has been sitting for a few years and is frozen up now. Without knowing what condition, the inside of the motor and the condition of the LU, it's basically worth what a scrap yard will pay for mixed metal pile of aluminum. An honest shop would laugh at you if you asked them to repair it, or want you to pay in advance for the time they felt it would take to trouble shoot it because they know they are going to get stuck with it when they show you the bill. The ONLY option you have that would make since is that you know enough about them to fix it yourself and even then, if the block, crank, rods or parts in the LU are bad, it's probably not worth the cost of any of these parts to repair it. If you have an ebay account, you might be able to sell any good piece's if those major components are bad. It only takes one bad major component to make that old of a motor basically scrap metal. Now, if you are wondering if you got it running like a new motor, what would it be worth, not a whole lot because outboards are not like classic cars, they are not gaining value as the they age. I haven't been messing with them for a while, but those old motors I would think if you can get $10 to $20 per horse power you are doing pretty good. I should also mention, if it has ever been run it salt water, at that age, scrap metal is about it's only value.

No, it's not the seal. You can use them on seals because they have a little forgiveness. This is a caged needle bearing and the shaft has to be the exact size to fit. If the seal leaks, it lets water get on the needle bearing, washing the gear oil off, causing it to run dry and rust and seize the bearings. This turns it into a harden steel bushing running on the drive shaft and eats it up. Over the years, I bought several of those motors for at scrap price because they thought they were locked up when the problem was the bearing had seized to the drive shaft. Since these things don't have a clutch, when the drive shaft doesn't turn, the crankshaft doesn't turn. That's why I suggested removing the LU first and check the power head good before messing with the LU. One can easily spend as much on the LU as the whole motor is actually worth so he definitely wouldn't want to be fixing it and finding his power head was junk also and even buying used one is an expensive crap shoot. Before getting asked, I looked at those motors I have. Two were 25's and one was a 40 and the LU on it suffered the same fate as what I just describer. That's why it never got repaired. IF! after removing the LU and it's still locking up. It has probably rusted the sleeves above the top of the pistons and what you are hitting is that rusted part of the sleeve. Add to that, if it has sat long enough for that, then there's a good enough condensation has been in it to rust the crankshaft journals and bearings also. This is a very common occurrence when people disconnect their fuel line and let the engine run to run the gas out. Doing this does not leave that protective layer of oil that's in the gas in engine to help keep if from rusting. Want to see how much condensation can get in one, on a cool morning and the sun has shinned on the motor and hour or so, take the cover off and you will think someone has washed it down with a water hose.

Those old lower units are notorious for leaking and the main drive shaft bearing rusting, freezing up and destroying the drive shaft. The first thing I would do is remove the lower you and see if the motor will start. It's not going to hurt anything about the motor just run it 30 seconds or so with the lower unit on it. Since there's not water cooling it, don't go any longer than that. If it will run, do a compression test on it to make sure it's good and worth spending any money on. If the motor checks out good, then worry about the lower unit. They are very easy to take off and take apart. The first thing you want to look at is drive shaft where it inters the lower unit and see if there about 1/2" wide grove around it. It's supposed to be flat and smooth the whole length. If there's a groove, it's destroyed by the upper bearing, a very common problem. The next thing is to disassemble the lower unit and make sure the gears are still good in it. The next thing is finding parts, the seal and bearing in the top of it for the drive shaft need to be replace. You will need a new rubber string type seal to go between the case halves. The output shaft seal and o-rings generally come preinstalled in that brass assemble they are in, not sure if you can find them separately unless you are very familiar with how to find seal and o-rings by their size, and then replacing them will be a challenge. If the drive shaft is grooved, even a little bit, it can't be used and the cost of having machine repair it is high. I seriously doubt you will find a good one, but even a blind squirrel finds an acorn I'm told. Buying a good used one is highly unlikely because they were too prone to leak and self destruct. I actually have a couple laying around but don't have a clue where. Actually, I think I have one of those same motors in a shed.

A trolling motor is not totally sealed. The shaft between the motor and the head is open so the motor is still exposed to condensation on temp swings but being stored inside an old vehicle is better than outside. I have an old Endura transom mount I bought when they first came out in 2011 for my jon boat to use in small ponds and kept it stored in a metal shed for long periods of time. When I would take it out to use it, I would have to spin the prop by hand a couple of times to get it to turn but ran fine once I did that. I started storing it upside down so condensation couldn't settle in the motor housing, and I quit having to do that. I don't see the old car as being a problem but if you have something a little more temp stable, it would probably be better.

On my 80mph bass boat I had props custom tuned for it to get peak performance. On my canoe with a 4hp merc or my 1436 jon with a 9.9 or 25 on it, all I'm concerned about is it being in the proper RPM range, I could care less about going through the expense and aggravation to get the one or two MPH going through a 1/2 dozen different props to find that "perfect" match might give. Oh I could go through the process of getting just the right prop on that jon and with just me in it with that 25 merc it will run 42mph, been there done that just for the hell of it but the first sand bar or other submerged item in the river and that prop is no longer the perfect prop.

The heat inside the car is probably not as hot as the sun baking on that black finish. The corrosion/rust from condensation caused by the large temp changes would be more of a concern to me. I don't leave my TM on the boat when I know it's going to sit unused for extended periods unless the boat is going to be stored in/under a shelter of some sort.

AGM's are lead acid, they just are not flooded cell. The three most common types are Flooded cell which come in Serviceable and Maintenance free; AGM's which come in stacked cell and spiral cell and then the gel cell. The flooded cell has to be stored top up, the AGM and gel can be stored on their sides or ends. The high end serviceable flooded cell batteries can provide the most AH/RC over the others.

For years I used ProMariner, Protournament three bank chargers but the last two I bought, both failed a few months out of warranty and both times they said they were not repairable and would only give me a small credit toward a new replacement. Very nice chargers while they work, but $400 every couple of years was more than I was willing to pay so I would not recommend you replacing it with another ProMariner. I tried one Minn Kota 3 bank 15 amp per bank and that one over charged the batteries. Stayed with Dual Pro after those. It is a good charger and hard to beat. Their Pro series is still made in the USA, I'm not sure about the cheaper models. There are a lot of them and I'm sure there are some OK cheap ones but I decided to stick with Dual Pro.

Those adapters are not optional on vehicles that have a separate turn signal bulb from the brake/taillight. They are a must have unless you know how to use diodes to isolate them and make your own (like I do). They are a MUST HAVE, or you will never get you trailer lights to work properly and to keep from blowing fuses. You buy them made for the vehicle you are installing them on and just unplug the existing connecter and plug the adapter in. If the connector is inside the vehicle you will have to drill a hole to get the trailer light pigtail out to the hitch.

"Normally" the factory wiring runs down the frame and up into the vehicle in one corner of the rear and then over to the other side. You just splice into the factory wiring coming from the front because it has the wires for both sides. However, with that said, I seem to remember having to go inside on the left side of a friends Ford Van to plug in the adapter and then run the trailer light pig tail through the bottom and over to the hitch. That required drilling a hole, installing a rubber gromet and sealing it with RTV. I would do whatever it takes to keep from going out the door with it.

One thing that should be clarified is "Just how often do you spend time running at 100% thrust". A lot of people may rarely ever run at 100%. I did a lot because on the lake I fished, once the water warmed up, I would spend a lot of time chasing schooling bass feeding on schools of shad and running from one spot to the next that may be 100 yards apart where there start breaking the water. When casting and just running around at 10% to 15% power, if your TM power cable is one or two sizes too small, it would never make a difference. However, if you run around in cove from one point to the next, and use max power a lot doing that, then it can make a big difference in how the motor performs.

NO! I'm not saying its dangerous. Just that you are starting to lose performance and efficiency. Why buy a 50 pound thrust motor if you are going to undersize the wire to where it only performs like a 40 pound thrust but still have the same drain on the battery as a 50 pound motor.

I have to disagree, 6 ga is too small for most 24V applications with larger TM's. Hopefully someone is not running cable small enough to feel it getting warm, but a lot of people run cable too small, and it cause a voltage drop. On a bow mount 40 - 50amp TM where there's 20' or less of cable, I would run 4ga fine strand marine/battery cable. However, I usually go ahead and install 2 gauge welding cable for any motor pulling close to 50 amps. It ain't cheap, but it's the right way to do it and you only have to do it once. Understand, I said 24VDC, 36VDC 6 gauge would be fine. If you want to see if the cable is large enough, with TM running on max in the water take, use a good digital volt meter and measure the battery voltage at the batteries, and then at the TM connector. If the readings are within 3% of each other then the cable is considered large enough. Any more than 3% and you need to use larger cable.

Since a lot of these responses are so long, I quit reading so I'm just going to give my opinion. My experience consists of having a degree in electronics, over 50 years working experience in electronics and over 20 years' experience in battery powered material handling equipment and industrial equipment using batteries that weigh as much as a ton and operating at over 600 amps under all sorts of conditions. By far the Anderson SB connectors is the one normally used. Also understand, the connector number SB50, SB75, SB350 etc is not the amp rating of the connector, it is the amp load the connector can be unplugged at without causing arcing of the contacts. The SB50 can handle a whole lot more than 50 amps without causing resistance and heating up. I have always used nothing but SB50's on my TMs connectors. Back in the days they used to put those three prong AC plugs in the bow for 12/24 uses, and for plugging in the charger. Since I always ran 24VDC, the first thing I did with one of those is take it out and install an SB50. And yes, like everything now days there are cheap fakes, so buy from a reputable source. As for dielectric grease on them, while I religiously use it on small, low current connectors, I've never seen a need for it on the Anderson connectors. Installing any connector on a DC circuit, you should always make a good mechanical connection before soldering, so crimp with a proper crimping tool before you solder and always solder after you crimp any connections that's going to be exposed to the elements and use a heat shrink that is self-sealing. Just squeezing a connector down is not a crimp. On large terminals like the SB connectors as a minimum use something like these. Hammer Lug Indent Crimper Tool, Battery Cable Crimping Tool, Wire Terminal Crimping Tool For 8 To 4/0 American Gauge Wire And Cable (AWG) - Search Shopping