Way2slow

Going to depend on local and state laws. Some water shed ponds don't allow any boats, most won't allow gas motors, but electrics are ok. Again, that depends on local laws. As for the boat, you have to check with state game and fish. Each state has it's own laws about the use of small boats and whether or not they need to be registered. For instance, my state does not require a registration unless there is a motor on it, that means electric TM or gas. Some states require it if used on public waters, motor or not. All state boating safety laws have to be followed.

Don't know, I haven't looked at a Transom mounted TM in many years. I do know a little about current loads and heat caused by them, since I have a degree in electronics, and 25 amps is asking a lot out of alligator clips. If you run on max a few minutes and feel the clamps, you will probably feel they are pretty warm. That's wasted energy. You also have to look at they are usually clamped onto a large lead terminal that give them a lot more surface area that you don't have on your battery. If you just put steel bolts in the battery for terminals, that's a very small surface area and believe it or not, steel and especially stainless is a poor conductor of electricity. Table of Electrical Resistivity and Conductivity (thoughtco.com) Now, I will say it like this, it's your situation and how you handle it is totally up to you. I know no one is going to tell me how to do something with something of mine. They can suggest but the decision how is mine.

The actual name of the connectors shown is the Anderson SB50 connector. At the most, your TM probably has no larger than AWG-10 wire, so I don't think I would order the #6 connectors. For the short length or wire you are going to be using I would go with the SB50 -10 and no larger than SB50-8. Even with the #8 you will have to fold the copper wire in the TM lead at least once or twice to make it fill the connector enough to get a good crimp. I crimp then solder my connectors, but I also have a very large set of special crimpers to crimp mine but doubt you want a $800 set of crimpers so I would recommend one of these (regular hand crimpers won't work on those heavy lugs) Amazon.com: Battery Cable Lug Crimper - Hammer Crimping Tool with Storage Pouch : Automotive. If you are skilled with soldering, you can just solder without crimping, just be sure to use Rosin Core solder, just remember it's going to take a Benz-O-Matic (propane torch) unless you have one huge soldering iron. A little gee wiz about the connectors. They are color coded, and it does not matter what color you use, but they both have to be the same color to plug the together. Each color has a different security tab on them, other than black, black is universal and will plug into any of them. Also, the number 50, 75, 125. 175, 350 are the amp rating. That's not the max they can handle, they can handle a lot more, but that's the max they can have going through them when disconnect and not cause it to arc and melt the terminal. Also be sure to order the copper lugs for the same size as the connectors and with the bolt the size of the bolt that connects it to the battery. I would use the heavy copper and not aluminum. You can find tinned copper lugs that are silver colored (they are silver plated) and those are fine. One other thing I should mention, if your charger comes with small alligator clips, and they will fit into the connector good enough to clamp onto the terminal in the connector, you can do that and not have to order a third connector for the charger. At five amps from the charger, you are not dealing with enough current for the alligator clips be a problem. If you want to make a cable for the charger to plug in, you will need three connectors. If needing to order a third for it, I would order a black, since it would plug into any of the SB50 connectors. Never know when you might want to have something else to charge with it.

It just happens while we are talking about Lithium batteries, I have about 10, 18650 batteries I run in my flashlights I have been cycling. Since I'm also pretty heavily invested in RC planes and helicopters also, I have some pretty good chargers. About once or twice a year, I cycle my batteries by doing a deep discharge and recharge. These are all high-quality Samsung 3,400Mah (not those highly exaggerated things off Ebay and Amazon and six of them are going on their fifth year. All six of those were between 2,900 and 3,050Mah after charging. Four are two years old that I bought thinking the first six would be going belly up soon, (guess I was wrong about that one) and they were between 3,100 and 3,250Mah. Needless to say, I don't think you would ever get that kind of service life out of any other type of battery. I have 2S and 3S lithium's I run in my RC stuff that are eight years old and still have close to 75% capacity. However, I also properly maintain my batteries.

You never add electrolyte to a battery once it has been initially charged. The water is what evaporates not the acid so when you add more acid it increases what's supposed to be the proper amount and eats the plates more. Actually, causing more harm. About 85% of deep cycle battery failures are from sulfation, not loss of acid. Sulfation is caused by the battery being left sitting below approximately an 80% charge level for more than 12 hours. About the only way to reclaim one is to put it in an ultrasonic bath of caustic soda or something similar, (that's what companies do the "reclaim/recycle a battery" to remove the sulfation and then recharge it with electrolyte, but that's not something most individuals should be trying. Since I'm not most individuals I have done a few but it has never proved to really be worth the danger and effort of doing it. At the most, I've gotten maybe another years or so out of one. After they sit too long, the plates start to flake apart also. Another thing is there are different levels of concentration, based on the design of the battery. Each gives a different specific gravity. Cranking batteries usually run about 1.26, deep cycle batteries usually run 1.28 to 1.3. By the way, don't think those maintainers that claim the get rid of sulfation really do. The get rid of the early powdery stage but not that heavy crusted that you can see if you look down in a battery with service caps the see those light grey looking plates. Those are junk.

6.0 gas with 4:10 gears. It's great for towing and that's what it's made for, as long as you don't mind feeding it. It's the only truck I've ever owned that my wife actually "liked" to go in, rides good, roomy and comfortable, and I've owned a 4WD truck/vehicle since 1967

Most tire shops will not service or put a tire 6 years old (the DOT age limit) back on a wheel or vehicle. The tires on my 2500HD pickup are eight years old. The came with free rotation and the tire shop says they can no longer honor that. I rarely drive the truck since I just used it for towing my boat. I sold my bass boat, gave the Pontoon boat to my granddaughter and my 93 4WD Toyota pickup has no problems with my 1436 Lowe, so that gas hog (10 to 12.5mpg) is not used for long trips and stays parked most of the time. In fact, anyone want a good deal on a 2001 Silverado 2500HD. I really should just get rid of it.

Sorry gimruis, if that was French to you, this is probably mandarin. Something that works great and I do on all my trailers is align the axles. I used to have it done but in today's world it's almost impossible to do. First you have to find a shop that has the equipment to bend straight axles. Years ago, that was no problem because a whole bunch of pickups and some cars had straight axles, but not today. Then you have to find someone that actually knows how to use it without the computer showing them. If they can't look it up in a computer and it tell them what to do, they don't have a clue. Because of that, years ago I bought a caster camber gauge that mounts to the wheel and have a porta power attachment for bending the axles. Mine is old and can't find one like I have but here's a magnetic tool that's supposed to do the same thing. Amazon.com: Caster Camber Tool, Wheel Camber Gauge, DECO Magnetic Caster Camber Gauge Suspension Tool, Aluminum Magnetic Camber Adjustment Tool, Wheel Alignment Tool : Automotive You are on your own on how you are going to bend it because couldn't find anything similar to my tool for doing that. With the right equipment, it's not hard to do. Ranger boats used to use that as a selling point, saying they aligned all their trailers. Don't know if they still make that claim or not.

We've just gotta luv those taxes. Last year our county tax office hired a new person that was going to "straighten out or taxes". I got a tax notice on 17 boats where she had gone to DNR and got a list of every boat I had registered since 1998, when I moved to this county. I've been doing battle with them since. I finally got it down to the 24' Pontoon and 1436 Lowe jon boat. Even then, I bought the 2001 Pontoon for $1,500 with no trailer, blown 90 Merc engine and needing restored, she valued it at $14,000. I bought the 1436 at Walmart in 2006 for $550. She valued it at $3,600. I finally had to take pictures, all my documentation and everything else I could come up with to the County Tax Commissioner himself and let him know what I thought about his new tax accessor. He and I paid her a visit and finally got it taken care of. While trying to tax my jon boat, she didn't even know in the state of GA, a boat valued at less than $7,501 is not taxable, and that doesn't include the trailer because it's taxed by the DMV.

One misconception is draining a lead acid battery below 50% damages it. Not really, it doesn't damage a deep cycle battery until you drain it below 25%. What it does is reduce the cycle count. If you discharged it to 25% most of the time, you would probably reduce the cycle count by 75%. Meaning if it was a quality battery that might have a 500 cycle count could be reduced to as few as 150. Note I said deep cycle, it does damage a cranking battery because they are not designed to be deep discharged. However, you have this same thing with Lithium batteries. Deep discharging below 25% can also damage them. Their big advantage is the weight savings, a higher cycle count, and they maintain a higher performance level longer that lead acid which makes them appear to have a longer run time, but they just drop off a lot faster at the end of their charge where a lead acid slowly gets weaker as it discharges. No matter what math you use, 50Ah is 50Ah. be it lithium or lead acid, Gel cell or Alkaline, it does not matter what kind of battery it is, you just a more useful run time out of Lithium and Lead Acid. Proper battery maintenance is the key to most any batteries life cycle.

I would think if you had the MSO and a signed BOS the dollar amount would not matter as far as getting it registered. That was basically the same thing I did; I just said the boat was gifted to my son and didn't have a dollar amount. Of course I was only dealing with a old beat up $75 boat. We had to take the boat to them so they could inspect it (they had an office in Brownsville so that was easiest). I wouldn't think taxes get involved until you get into county and state Ad Valorem taxes and for no more than that could have cost, I wouldn't think there would be any. Most states have a guide they go by, and it doesn't matter what the BOS says anyway, they just go by what they think it supposed to be worth. That keeps people from saying it was $1,000 on the BOS when it was really $10,000. It was almost 10 years ago when I had to deal with them so things may have changed.

Is this a boat you recently purchased or one you have had for years. If recently purchased, do you have the paperwork. The reason I ask, you need to make sure you have your ducks lined up before you go DNR. My son lives in Brownsville Tx and several years ago I bought cheap 12' jon and just got a bill of sale. I found out that was not good enough, I need the registration also and he didn't have one. I ended up having to lie about it and say it was just an old boat I had for many years on my pond in GA and was giving it to my son to in the resacas around Brownsville and was going to put a TM on it, so he needed to register in it. That was the only way we could get a registration for it. Luckily, we had called before showing up in person and found out they would not register it with just a bill of sale.

Remember, #17 thrust probably means running at max current most of the time to go anywhere. A newer digital controlled motor can run the same speed with a much lower current draw, and have plenty of extra power if needed. Of course, if you listen to all our recommendation's we will have you spending $1,000 when you were probably thinking of spending $100.

I have a Minn Kota 65 transom mount I've had more years than I can remember, probably from back in the 80's. Even still have the Maximizer I used on it. Didn't realize they even made a 35. A lot depends on how you plan on using it. If just a small local lake you plan on spending a few hours on, or if a large lake and you plan on covering a couple of miles during an outing. Having hauled many a group 27 Deep Cycle battery from a vehicle to a boat and back over the years, that ain't no fun. I think the lithium's have gotten down to almost affordable for a descent size battery. You might see how Alex uses his 40Ah and see if that will fit the bill for you. Me personally would lean more toward something close to 100Ah. You have to remember, when you do the math to calculate run time, you can only use about 70% of that without damaging the battery. Then you have to figure even the last 10-15% of that is not going to be that great because the voltage drop is going to be having the motor running a lot slower. Not as bad a lead acid battery but it will probably be noticeable and it's recommended not to use a lithium when the performance starts to drop to keep from over discharging it. Also understand, if you go with a lithium, you have to get a charger designed for lithium's.

Is that a typo error or is it really a 17 lb thrust? Years ago, I bought an old aluminum jon boat that had a 17lb mercury TM on it. It was next to useless if there was any wind blowing, even on small private ponds. As for a battery, make sure it's for Marine Deep Cycle use. Automobile cranking batteries don't hold up under the constant discharge and charging. For the charger, get at least a 8 to 10amp and one that says it's a, smart charger or Inteli-charger and one that has a good maintainer in it. The cheap transformer style automatic chargers shorten the life of the battery because that can't properly charge the battery. To fully charge a battery, it has to be over charged approximately 5% to balance the cells and those cheap chargers don't do that,

Different weight springs have different stack heights. Might find a cure here. Trailer Leaf Springs | etrailer.com On a light duty trailer like that, another option you might want to look at is to use some 1/8" thick wall 1-1/2" or 2" high (get it a width that fits between the bolts) box steel and make you a couple of spacers to go between the spring and axle (if it's under slug with axle under spring). If it happens to use U-Bolts and not plates, you can make longer U-Bolts with some all-thread.

If you are talking about the trailer, I would move just mover the fenders. If on the vehicle, over slinging the axle tends to make them a lot more wishy washy going down the road. If on the rear, it can change driveshaft angles and possibly length as well as shocks and sway bar. You can always do like I've seen a lot of kids do to put wider tires on to get fender clearance. Just put air shocks on and pump them up and let them beat you guts out while driving down the road. If you are talking about the trailer. Do you currently have a drop axle or straight axle. Converting from a drop axle to a straight axle will raise the frame approximately 2-1/2" depending on the amount of offset it has. If you have an under slung axle (axle below the springs) if you move it to above the springs that's going to make the frame sit lower and probably make the finders rub and It will also give it less spring travel before it bottoms out. If you have and over slung axle (axle above the springs) and you under slung it, it will raise the frame the trailer several inches, depending on axle thickness and spring stack height. On most V-hull bass boats, this can cause problems loading the boat. As for converting from under/over slung to the other, it's usually just a matter of unbolting the axle from the springs, move it to where you want in and flip the U-Bolts and plate over. To answer your question directly, I have never seen or used a "Kit", unless you are talking about removing a drop axle and installing a straight axle. Most V-Hull bass boat have a drop axle along with a V-shaped frame so they can get the hull closer to the water for loading and unloading, not sure I would want to change that.,

It's not hard to do and it's something you should learn. There are a couple of alignment points you check first and then adjust the carb butterflies, so they are closed and start to open at precisely the same time at the point they are supposed to. A little tedious because you may have to adjust the butterflies a few times but not hard. Actually, I would not trust many average mechanics to do a proper sync on the carbs. Too many tend to say that's close enough, and just being close can make a big difference in how it idles vs how good they will idle done perfectly. One thing though, you absolutely cannot adjust the carbs idle mixture and speed running on a hose. The motor has to be sitting in water at the depth it sits when just sitting still to have the proper back pressure on the exhaust If someone says they can it's time to find a better mechanic.

Do you have some type of manual? You must do a synchronization on them and the linkage. If you don't have a manual let me know and I will see what I can come up with. There's a lot more involved that just bolting them on. When you mention using a torque wrench, it thought you were talking about the water pump bolts instead of the lower unit bolts. The water pump was the ones I was talking about being so careful with.

A couple of things I should have mentioned that I wasn't paying attention to. You mentioned borrowing a torque wrench from a friend to tighten them, if you haven't tightened them already, a word of caution. You said you put Anti seize on the bolts. That makes them very slick, and you should back off the torque setting or it's possible to over torque them. How much, it's hard for me to say, because having done the stuff all my life, I go by feel as much as anything, especially the one with the insert since you are not too sure about how well it's installed. If in doubts about the installation, it would probably pay you not to use the anti-seize and use a drop of blue thread locker instead (Loctite 242) and not fully torque it. If you have already put anti-seize on the bolt and decide to use Loctite, you will need to use Brake Cleaner of something to clean the hole and bolt with. Loctite has to have a clean bare surface to work. it does not work on an oily surface. If you have already torqued them and it's a done deal, then you should be good to go and don't need to worry about it. When tightening them and they feel spongy and feel like they just want to keep on turning, and not giving you a good firm feel as they reach the torque number, don't keep on pulling on them, you will most likely pull the threads out of the aluminum housing, and you will get a chance to learn more about how to install inserts. This is all stuff that's mostly gained by experience, so it's hard to explain but just trying to help you not have to learn the hard way right now.

You want to learn how to fix stuff. Before you throw anything away, take it apart try to put it back together. I don't know how many people buy a new something because they don't feel the know how to fix the bad one. What the heck is it going to hurt if you try to fix it, might get lucky, and if you destroy it what's the worst thing that's going to happen, you have to buy the new one you were going to buy to start with. One exception, if you have to have a rebuildable core to turn in, you might not want to do anything that is going to affect that. When I was about 10, I couldn't resist taking mechanical/analog clocks apart. No telling how many I destroyed but before too long, I got where I could put them back together again. Might be surprised at just how much you learn. One day you may run into something similar remember something from the one you destroyed that helps you fix it. A lot of times people will ask me if I know how to fix something they are having a problem with, and I will tell them know, I don't "know how" but I'm pretty sure I can probably figure it out. When I was 12 or 13, I had my own used lawn mower and mower repair business. In the spring I would comb the different neighbor hoods looking for the old lawn mower people would put out for the trash to get. I would take them home, get what I could running and sell them for $5. People started asking me to fix their mowers and I would sometimes make a dollar or two doing that. This was back in the late 50's early 60's when a coke was only 7 cents out of a machine and a gallon of gas was less the 30 cents, sometimes a low as 10 cents when they had a gas war between brands. I have always been a firm believer in the term "can't never could" so I can't is not in my vocabulary.

As mentioned, a number of things can be causing it. If the motor has ever been run in saltwater, there could be a corrosion build up with the passages that's preventing enough water circulating at lower rpm. I have pulled the heads off old crossflows that it was hard to recognize the water jackets in the block. Pulling just the top part of the head off really does nothing for diagnosing the water flow problems. You pretty much have to pull the heads off, and doing that on an older motor, ESPECIALLY if it has ever been in saltwater can open up a whole can of worms you really don't want to get into. Without experience with them, you could very easily make a good running motor junk. Broken head bolts, tops of cylinders corroded out to where they have to be built up with Devcon to fix the destroyed sealing surfaces, etc. It is easy enough to see if it's a wire shorting out just by unplugging the sensor. If you get the alarm with the sensor unplugged, then it's something in the wiring.

I guess I'm wrong, I see on ebay and a few other places you can find Johnson's Paste Wax. One guy want's $250 for a new can of it that sold for about $20. I see some with used/partial cans wanting as much as $100. All are what I consider STUPID prices. There are a number of products that work very well, I just have never used them so I can't say what. I still have three full cans I bought for $20 a can because they were going to discontinue it and one open can. Since I rarely do any fiberglass work anymore, I have enough to last several lifetimes.

I know this is about props and not live scan but a little story about it. A couple of years ago I was at my favorite lake I grew up fishing in my little 14' jon boat. As I was putting in, there was a young guy at the dock with his tackle looking like he was waiting on someone. Walking back to the dock after parking my truck a guy in a really nice boat with all that live scan and other gear drives up to the dock and starts giving the young guy at the dock all kinds of instructions so I figured he was probably a paid guide. I was going to try my luck at crappie fishing, which I know nothing about, and was having no luck with that so I bass fished the last couple of hours. I saw the boat that was at the dock a couple of different times and in places I would have never wasted my time fishing, and wondering why he was there. When I quit and got back to the dock, the guide with his fancy boat and electronics pulls up and I asked the young guy how he did. He said they caught three bass. I didn't have the heart to tell him I caught seven and spent most of the prime-time crappie fishing with my $500 jon boat with an $800 Garmin. It ain't all about the boat and electronics.

Get you one of these, not particularly this model but one the that will check battery capacity. It's the only way to conveniently check sealed batteries. Amazon.com: ANCEL BA101 Car Battery Tester 12V - Digital Automotive Batteries & Alternator Diagnostic Tool, 100-2000 CCA Load Capacity, Charging & Cranking Analysis for Motorcycle, Truck, Boat, RV, Marine & More : Automotive Amp hour capacity is amp hour capacity, Just make sure they are using the same rating system. Most use the 25 min rating system, but there are several, and it makes a huge difference in numbers. Some of the imports will just plain lie about them, just to make theirs look better.