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  • My PB
    Between 3-4 lbs
  • Favorite Bass
    Largemouth & Smallmouth
  • Favorite Lake or River
    Lake Minnewaska (MN) Lake Reno (MN) Any open water

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  • About Me
    Bought a 1992 LUND Tyee II with a V4 90 HP Evinrude in Feb. of 23' -- my first boat -- and spent summer of 23' learning about fishing while on the water -- a tremendous amount more to learn as I am just beginning this fishing journey and I am really enjoying it !

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WaskaCrank12's Achievements


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  1. Hello @Way2slow Yes, I was talking about the water pump bolts -- and I followed your advice, which was right on, thank you ! I did purchase a SELOC - Johnson/Evinrude Outboards 1992-2001 Repair Manual. I used the manual and followed the instructions to remove the carbs -- yet at this point I may bring the motor/carbs to a town near me where a retired marine mechanic has just recently opened a shop (he is renting out two garage bays, seems he is limiting his work to 2-strokes and installing electronics) and perhaps I will have him put the carbs back in so they can be properly synchronized. Thank you for the continued info. and suggestions !
  2. Hello @Way2slow Thank you for the heads up and information on torquing the bolts. I used the torque wrench yet I took your information in to account and did not push it -- the torque spec I was told to set was 73 foot pounds -- so I tightened the bolts, in a star type pattern, and got the bolts tight yet I did not ever get the torque wrench to "click" -- the bolts are on tight and I didn't want to push it and break any of the bolts -- thank you very much for that information ! The lower unit is now back on the boat (I still need to put new lower unit oil in) -- now I need to put the carburetors back on (I took them off and a friend cleaned them and put the new carb kits on them) -- quite a few bolts to put the carbs and covers back on -- yet overall it should be pretty straight forward. Any suggestions on putting the carbs back on is appreciated. I have also changed out the fuel filter. Thank you again for sharing your expertise with me !
  3. Update - 06/18/24 @Way2slow @WRB @Woody B I have allowed the epoxy (72 hours) and the putty (48 hours) to cure - the insert and insert area appear stable. I re-watched several videos on replacing the water pump/auger/gasket/metal plate to refresh my mind and to make sure I was doing it appropriately. I borrowed a torque wrench from a friend to make sure I would not be over tightening the bolts. I put anti-seize on the bolts - which hopefully will avoid any bolt breakage in the future. Everything has gone well to this point in the water pump replacement process -- now I just need to wait to have a friend come and help me put the lower unit back on to the motor (and I have a few other things to do - replace the lower unit fluid/ect...)-- and then hopefully this weekend I can fire up the motor and see if this repair holds and if it is the proper fix. If it works -- awesome -- if it does not work then I will seek out a used lower unit. Thank you again for all of your help/support with this. I have learned many lessons in this process (most importantly is that if a bolt breaks off in aluminum it is best to bring it to a machinist to get it done right vs. trying to do it myself -- ie, stay in my lane and know my limitations). I have learned new skills, I have built more confidence/skill in using tools. I have also learned about epoxy/putty/sealants/aluminum/and a number boat engine issues/solutions. I will update you once I get the engine running (or not running).
  4. Update 06/15/24 @Way2slow @WRB @Woody B Time-Sert kit arrived today - I had watched a number of videos (Time-Sert company videos and mechanics videos) - I practiced on some wood (no spare aluminum) - and dove in to it - following the instructions and tips from the videos. It was tricky to make sure the drill was in the proper place and vertical/steady - the same with the counter bore and threader - yet I believe it went ok. I oiled the insert tool and insert and followed the directions. The only real hiccup is the insert is about a 1/8 turn too deep for the insert hole - so it is not 100% flush at the top of the insert area (it is probably 98% flush). My hope is that I can overcome that by adding a bit more sealant in that area when I put the gasket and metal plate and cover on (the cover is wider/larger than the insert area so it should cover that area and not be a major issue). The insert is in tight and I have no fear that is will move or come out. A small piece of aluminum - and I mean an extremely small piece - no bigger than this letter "o" came away from the side of the insert area aluminum - so I will use some JB Weld "putty" on that (it is file-able so I will make sure it is sanded smooth (although due to the location I do not think it matters at all). I took my time and followed things to the best of my ability (this is the first time I have ever done anything like this - basically way over my head from a knowledge/skill level). A learning experience for sure. I thank each of you for all of your expertise and willingness to help me. The job is not complete - and I am not sure if it will hold or work once under strain - so I will update you when I piece it back together (gasket/metal plate/cover). Thank you !
  5. Update 06/10/24 Hello @Way2slow @WRB @Woody B Thank you for the info and clarity on the "release agent" - I now understand what it is. I have ordered a Time-Sert Kit (insert and tools for the 1/4-20 bolt) - a bit pricey with shipping - yet given the situation I am in it is clearly less expensive than a lower unit/new motor. I watched quite a few videos (specifically Project Farm - he did extensive testing of Time-Sert/EZ Loc/Helicoil/HHIP and several liquid threads) and the Time-Sert tested out as the top performer. Looking at the damage done to my insert area and the info. provided by @Way2slow led me to pulling the trigger on the Time-Sert. If the damage to the insert area had not been as extensive I would have gone with (the much less expensive) Helicoil or EZ-Loc. I am still researching the Devcon vs. JB Weld-type adhesive (I am going to drive to a rural hardware store this week and see if they have some of the old Johnson's Paste Wax - they have a reputation for having long out of stock/no longer manufactured items). Thank you again for the information and sharing your expertise. Once the Time-Sert arrives and I have an adhesive I will provide an update.
  6. Hello @Woody B @Way2slow @WRB The bolt is 1/4-20 size - I have 4 new bolts that came with the Evinrude water pump kit I purchased. During the course of grinding out the insert area (to get the broken bolt out) the insert area did become larger and wore down/damaged the majority of the original threads - so I do believe a "threaded insert" (that @Way2slow mentioned) will need to be used - later today I will look online to order one. Yes, the Devcon looks to be about $100 - could I use a JB Weld ? Or are there other options ? You had written that I should not use a "release agent" on the outside of the insert (yet I should put it on the inside of the insert) -- I am not sure what a "release agent" is -- could you please clarify that for me ? (I am guessing it might be anti-seize ?) Again, thank you to each of you for making the time to share your expertise with me !
  7. Update - 6/7 @Way2slow @WRB @Woody B @DinkDonkey30 @MN Fisher Ok....a slow tedious process, and I kept looking at Way2Slow's advice of "take your time and be patient".....because it was a literal grind....I ended up purchasing multiple sized Irwin "extractors" (Way2Slow I took your advice and avoided HF) and ended up using all three of them at various times.....between yesterday and today it was probably 4 or more hours of work/grinding the stuck bolt down (I had tried to pry it out yet it became clear to me that the metal from the bolt was basically fused into the aluminum threads in the insert).....finally a piece of the bolt came lose and fell to the bottom of the insert, I used tweezers to get it out of there.....then, and my neighbors already think I am a bit zany, I ran out of the garage beating my chest and yelling YEAH !!!!!! The insert area is not perfect, a bit damaged from the initial try at the fix and from this work.....but no damage to the bottom (I ended up using tape to mark it, yet I appreciate @MN Fisher suggestion of the stop collars)....now when I put the metal plate on and the cover on it lines up and I can put the bolt in.......BUT....I do need to now figure out if a "Time-Sert" or Helicoil will work best (I think the aluminum around the insert area is now worn down too thin to try and just tap new threads into the aluminum/insert area).....so there is clearly quite a bit more to be done....but always good to celebrate a small victory in the process..... Any additional suggestions/information is appreciated ! Thank you to all who have contributed to this, specifically @Way2slow , I literally could not have gotten this far without you !! Thank you !!
  8. Hello @Way2slow @WRB Thank you for making the time and sharing your expertise with me -- no doubt the first attempt at fixing this did more harm than good -- I fully appreciate your detailed layout of how to approach this -- I have printed out the info you have shared and will use it as a guide as I work on it -- this is my first time working on something like this and having people like you share their expertise with me is invaluable -- as they say "success leaves clues" and you have had success in navigating issues like this and I appreciate you sharing your "success clues" with me -- There is about 20 % of the bolt left in the insert area, the bolt is not whole, it is only a small sliver of it on one side of the insert area, so job number 1 is to get that out -- then I will go with what you recommended (an insert vs. a heilcoil) as that appears to make the most sense given that I would rather use the original size bolt if at all possible Thank you again -- I will provide progress updates as I move thru the process
  9. Update as of 06/05 @WRB @Way2slow @Woody B @DinkDonkey30 Today I stopped by 3 machine shops and a marina/dealer -- two of the machine shops are "engine machine shops" so I was hopeful -- all three declined to take it on as a project, all said "aluminum is fragile and extremely difficult to work with" -- one said because I had already tried they did not want the liability of taking it on -- one said to maybe try and shave the metal plate back a bit so the screw would fit -- the dealer (who I went to last) recommended two of the three places I had already been to -- so, back to square one -- I have spent the last few hours watching Danger Marine and other motor "broken bolt in aluminum" videos -- so tomorrow I am going to try the following: --pull out the heilcoil -- spray the insert area with PB Blaster and let it sit for a while -- go to Harbor Freight and get a "burr extractor" and new size heilcoil to fit the original bolt size -- and then try and back out the piece/s of the old bolt that are still in the insert area with the extractor -- if that is successful I will then look to put in the new heilcoil and go from there -- if it is not successful then I will try and file the metal plate back a bit -- any thoughts recommendation are welcome !! Right now it's an unusable lower unit --- so I feel it's worth the risk for me to try these things (even though this is well out of my comfort zone) --- no risk, no reward --- the worst that can happen is I am back to square one --- if that happens then I will search for a used lower unit
  10. @WRB @Way2slow @Woody B @DinkDonkey30 Thank you to each of you for your thoughts and suggestions/ideas -- you are helping build my confidence that this can be repaired ! Based in the information provided, tomorrow I am going to take the lower unit to an "engine machining shop" that is located north of me and see if they are willing to take it on as a project -- I feel that the re-drilling/tapping of the hole/having the hole drilled straight to accommodate a new insert is a bit beyond my skill level/tools I own level/my confidence level -- I believe on the first attempted fix some of the broken off bolt is still wedged in to the insert area and that might be a bit tricky to remove (I am sure a skilled machinist/mechanic with the correct tools will have the expertise needed to complete the job correctly). Thank you ! I will let you know the outcome
  11. @WRB Thank you for that info........I am going to ask around the neighborhood and see if anyone is open to helping/guiding me with helicoil removal (and then drilling the hole out a bit more to make it a bit wider to then put in a new/larger helicoil in that will allow the bolt to fit correctly and thus the metal plate to fit correctly--- this will be outside of my skill level/knowledge base --- yet you never learn if you don't try !) --- and at this point either it will work or I will need to get a used lower unit. Thank you. @TnRiver46 thank you for the info --- your reply gives me confidence in purchasing a used lower unit if that is the route I go -- Thank you !
  12. Hello @WRB and @Way2slow Thank you for the replies -- the short story (which is going to turn in to a long story) of the damage to the lower unit is --- the engine was surging a bit last fall so this spring when I de-winterized it I chose to take off and clean the carbs (new kits) and thought it would be wise to also change the impeller/water pump while things were a part (also new plugs/fuel filter/fuel line).......everything was going well (I only have medium at best mechanical skill, so this was pushing my ability limits)....three of the 4 bolts for the water pump housing came off with no problem (I took them off by hand with a socket wrench) - the 4th one broke off, ugh, about halfway into the housing/insert area........a well meaning friend (he has done a lot of work on his motorcycles/4 wheeler engines) said he would give it a try to drill/tap the piece of bolt out - yet it was difficult due to the nature of aluminum - he got part of the piece out and put a "coil" piece in -- and I am thankful for his efforts -- yet I cannot get the metal water pump plate to line up correctly (because the bolt does not go into the insertion area correctly) so that it can be placed/tightened correctly -- my friend was nervous to drill more and I have no skill in this area -- I brought it to a general machinist shop but they said they would not work on it because I had already done so (liability) -- so as of now I cannot get the water pump plate/bolt in place so it seems to have made the lower unit un-usable (if you or anyone have any suggestions I am open to hearing them --- I can provide pictures) I looked around on line today and and there are two "blown up motors" that have "fully functioning" lower units for sale (1 an hour away, one 2 hours away) that I may try and go see later in the week
  13. Hello - I have damage to lower unit of my motor, so if I am to use the motor I will need to replace the lower unit. I am looking into several solutions and seeking to find out if people here have experiences (positive or negative) in solving an issue like this. 1. Has anyone purchased a used lower unit ? if so did it have a positive outcome or negative outcome for you ? (I am researching to make sure what used lower units would be compatible with the motor - which is a 93' Evinrude 90hp V4) 2. Has anyone purchased a re-manufactured lower unit ? positive or negative experience with it ? 3. Has anyone purchased an aftermarket new lower unit ? positive or negative experience with it ? 4. I have an opportunity to purchase a 78' Johnson Javelin 85hp (to potentially replace the 93' Evinrude 90hp V4), so this might be an option, it is a well cared for engine that runs smoothly, yet it is 46 years old and would require lifting off the engine/cables/ect...... Thank you in advance for your time/efforts/thoughts.
  14. Enjoying watching and reading the posts -- unfortunately an engine issue has kept me off the water -- trying to figure out the best approach to moving forward (- bolt broke off in the water pump housing area when I was looking to replace the auger/pump -- attempt to drill out/re-tap/put a coil in has not worked -- machine shop said they will not try and fix as aluminum is risky to work with and too much liability -- so I am exploring purchase of a remanufactured lower unit/a new lower unit/a used lower unit or potentially purchasing an old 78' Johnson Javelin 85hp engine someone in the neighborhood has and having that placed on the boat -- all options are more pricey than I would like)
  15. @Siebert Outdoors and Dirty Jigs are the only two type of jigs I have Last summer Dirty Jigs California Jig in Bluegill worked well as did Siebert's Sniper PBJ
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