Way2slow

As mentioned, you did something wrong. It was not the meters' fault. You shorted the tip against a negative as you were trying to check a positive or you have the meter in the wrong mode, and it was not fused. If you have a VOM in the current mode and you try to check voltage with it, that's the same that as putting a direct short on it. Been there, done that numbers of times but I only use Fluke meters, and they are fused, and they are dam proud of that fuse because it cost me about $15 every time I do it. Shorting the tip can also get expensive because you shorted the point you was testing and could have easily fried something else. Just melting the tip is mild, do that in a high amperage DC or AC circuit and have it exploded in your face, that will have you changing your underwear. Trust me, with over 60 years of electronics and electrical trouble shooting experience, I've destroyed a one or two of those high dollar Fluke leads I use.

I've had problems with one of the spade connectors on the circuit board cause intermittent problems like that. Every time you would think you had it fixed, somewhere in the next trip, it would stop working again. I finally got tired of screwing with it and cut the spade connecter off soldered the wired directly to the board. Didn't have any more problems with it after that. However, that was also after using a multimeter to isolate the problem. My first knee jerk action was to replace the switch because they are so common to fail, and it didn't feel right when activating it. The switch was probably going bad because of the mussy feel it had instead of a positive click but that didn't fix the problem. It took a little isolating with the multimeter to find the cause and three tries at fixing a spade connector that fit tight and didn't see a problem with. The old wife's tale, third times a charm, that was when I finally just eliminated the sucker completely. The first time, I put a new spade connector on. The second time I resolder the terminal on the board, the third time I cut the connector off and soldered the wire directly to the bottom side of the board.

Recommend you get a VOM multimeter and learn how to use it. I never have been able to see electrons moving through wires just by looking.

One 12ga drop cord would run both chargers. The main problem I see you running into is the diameter of the drop cord. If you are RON at a dock, there should be no problem but if you are RON at a motel most of the time you have to plug in inside the room and getting the door or window you have to go through to outside closed can be a problem. I had a flat, three conductor 12AWG drop cord I used but it always scared the hell out of me because there was no buffer/filler layer in the wire. For a #12 wire, it was extremely thin but if you happened to get a nick in it, you were seeing exposed copper wire, so I inspected it regularly. You also have to remember, it's only in the bulk charge mode that the chargers are pulling max current, which is usually not very long. On most good chargers, once you get to 80%, they are out of the bulk mode and are pulling much less current.

Understand, that sticker is not the manufacturing date. A lot of people think that but that sticker is put on them by the distribution center for the date the battery was delivered to the store. The actual manufacturing date is coded into that numbers embossed into the battery. The East Penn distribution center used to be a customer of mine before I retired, and I've seen many pallets of batteries come in without those little stickers and watched the guys putting the stickers on when they when loading them in their trucks to deliver them. I was in a Walmart once where I watched a guy peeling off older dated stickers and putting new current ones on. They have a predetermined shelf life that they are supposed to be pulled off the shelf and returned to distribution center to be charged and tested, and if it still meets specs, they will send it back out with a new sticker, but this guy was just swapping the stickers out. After a predetermined a manufacturing date some companies pull them, pull the labels off and sell them as seconds. I have seen marinas and low volume retailers just pull the stickers off so you wouldn't know they were selling you a junk battery that had been sitting on their rack for months or even a year. Some companies use numbers for both month and year, some use letters with A being number 1.

It depends on the type of battery you are buying. Walmart, like most other companies buy from several sources. Clarios, (which used to be Johnson Controls) supplies the lions share of Everstart Batteries and they are made all over the world, just not in the USA. I think East Penn makes their high-end AGM's and maybe some of the MAXX's but the only way to tell is being able to decipher the manufacturer's code, and good luck on that one. You also have to remember, no matter who makes the battery, even if it's and East Penn, not all batteries are made the same, even by the same company. The alloys, materials and construction techniques used to them can vary, greatly affecting the life cycle of the battery. EverStart batteries and considered a three-year battery. Sometimes you are lucky to get three years out of them. Sometimes, if well maintained you might get four. You will have people say they get five or six years out of them, but that's generally because they are not putting that much demand on them and even a battery that only had half capacity is still good enough for their use. Before I retired, I worked with batteries on a daily basis and saw people constantly trying to save a dollar and buy Everstart Batteries instead of Trojan's or other top brand for their industrial equipment and it was rare for them to get much more than a year or so out of them. Would I buy an EverStart, yes! I just bought their AGM to go in my wife's HighLander. Because in todays market, you don't know who makes what when buying this rebranded junk. However, I also check my batteries every six months or so with a good digital analyzer, and I replace the batteries in my vehicles every three years, regardless of how they test.

I ran 327hp on the back of a 1989 Stratos 285 Pro (it ran near 90mph) for a little over a year and then ran it on a 1999 Javelin Renegade 20 DC (ran 82mph with two people and gear) for almost 10 years. It's nice to have it when you want it, but you don't go running around at WOT a whole lot, not it you like living long enough to enjoy like a little. The great part about all that hp was being able to cruise at 45 to 50 mph, at 4500 rpm and get 5mpg.

OEM parts might be getting harder to find, but I would think aftermarket parts are still fairly common for most of the more common parts.

One suggestion, it might pay you to buy a cheap pressure gauge that can easily read in the 5 to 10 psi range and a couple of fittings so you can tee it into the fuel system somewhere after the fuel pump. This is one time it might pay to check Harbor Freights junk. They used to sell vacuum/pressure gauge for a few bucks (not the fuel injection test kit) that will be good enough to do this, since it's not something you will use regularly and don't have to depend on being very accurate. You need to make sure you're not chasing you tail in circles and it not be a fuel problem. Like I said, I believe in trouble shooting a problem and not guessing, guessing gets expensive when screwing with these things. If it is the fuel pump, there are a couple of checks you need to make before saying the pump itself is bad. I have seen the pulse valve cause problems and that's only a few buck's vs several hundred.

It's very common for that cam roller to be bad, and should be replaced before doing the sinc. The synchronization has to be done on land. That's to get all those alignment points match up and the butterfly's in the carbs balanced so they are fully closed and open at the same time. If your carbs have idle mixture screws, those have to be adjusted in the water and the idle rpm has to be adjusted in the water. That is adjusted by the timing, not the throttle linkage itself. As for the surging, that's probably a fuel starvation problem and there are a number of things that can cause that. Sounds like you are getting a good lesson on what I call shotgun trouble shooting, just keep throwing money and parts at a problem until you hope you finally find the cause. That rarely works and only causes you more aggravation and money doing it. Troubleshoot and narrow down the problem to the actual cause. Sometimes there may be a couple of things that can have the same symptoms and the only way to isolate it, is by trying a known good part, which is very common with ignition problems like the ECM and the timer base can both have the same symptoms most people are not going to know how to troubleshoot the times base to see if it's that or the ECM. Next time you go, make sure to take someone with you to drive the boat when needed. However, in your case, with a little proper troubleshooting, you should be able to isolate the cause. You first test is going to be to check the primer bulb when it starts the surging. Look at it and make sure it's not collapsing. If it's collapsing, you have a fuel pickup problem at the tank, probably the anti-siphon valve. Then squeeze it and see if it gets firm with just a partial squeeze. Keep pumping it slowly and see if it quits surging while you are pumping it. If it cleans up and runs fine, then you have a fuel delivery problem. If it's not getting a little firm while doing this, you may be sucking air at the bulb or tank. If a fuel line or something is sucking air beyond the bulb it's going to leak fuel when you pump the bulb. A common cause for a fuel delivery problem is the fuel pump, and you mentioned yours is the VRO pump, so you are probably not going to like the cost of replacing that. You can buy a non VRO pump and go back to mixing the gas yourself, that looks like and is a direct replacement for the VRO pump, but you are probably not going to like that either, and the way everything is coming out of China now, I don't think I would trust it being worth the time it takes to swap them out. You will find diagrams on how you can jerry rig the cheaper stacked fuel pump to it, but I would not trust that. Dirty carbs can be another cause of the surging. For the fuel pump, my go to fix it is to install a Carter Vein pump. Just make sure you use a relay to energize it because the key switch is not designed to handle the amp load of that pump. That also does away with having to worry about pumping that dam primer bulb every time you put the boat in the water and a whole lot easier to start because you don't have to crank the engine over to make the primer system (choke) work. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-p4594?seid=srese2&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Brands+|+C&utm_term=4582008552060744&utm_content=GSAPI+5ba11740c90ac Your system runs at six psi, and normally these pumps will work with no problems. If the float levels in the carbs are set a little high, it is possible if the pump is over seven or eight psi, it can push to needles off the seats and flood it out. If it does this, you may have to invest another $30 and install a regulator. Since I have not messed with one for several years, they may have an adjustment to adjust the pressure between that advertised 5-9psi. They used to come at 7.5psi or 15 psi. Don't not try one of those cheap vibrator pumps, they don't have the volume needed if you find one with the pressure. You want a minimum of 30gph, or you might still end up with the surge. If the volume is less than that, it may not be able to maintain the 6psi at WOT. By the way, the anti-siphon valve, if it still has one, is the barb fitting coming out of the tank for the fuel line. If it still has it, there's a check ball inside of that fitting that only lets fuel go one direction, toward the engine. I've had a number of them cause problems over the years and I just drill/knock the ball and spring out (sometimes that's not possible) or replace it with just a straight fitting without the check ball in it.

I've never owned an inflatable boat, but I thought they used something like a reinforced coated fabric material like some of those water tubes and stuff were made of and they didn't stretch, they only inflated. If that's the case, I wouldn't think sticking the decals to it would be a problem. My main concern with one would be snatching a hung lure loose and it come flying back like a rocket and bury a hook in the boat. Don't know how many of those I had to dodge over the years, sometimes not very successfully.

For any useful advice/recommendations a lot more info is needed. Are you wanting a new or a used boat. Are you wanting an aluminum or a glass boat. How much are you looking to spend? What do you plan to tow it with? Right now, who knows, you may have just come into millions and there is not limit, or you may be like many of us that have to consider the cost of fishing in our monthly budget. So, a little better idea of what you have in mind is needed. I will say, for bass fishing, I've never had a boat under 17' that I've liked, of any kind. Since 1963, I have probably owned close to 100 boats. After getting married in 1969, buying boats in need of repair, fixing them up and selling them was a very good source of extra income for me. If I liked one, I would keep it for myself for a couple years until I found another, I liked better. Around 1980 I got my first actual 17' "BASS BOAT". It was ok but not a lot of storage and room. I went through a couple of 17 footers and in 1993 I got a 1989 Stratos 285 Pro. That was like a Rolls Royce compared to I had previously. I kept that one until 2003 when I got a 1999 Javelin Renegade 20DC. I kept that one until about three years ago when decided I no longer wanted the maintain it just to sit and not being used. Though many, many boats, the worst boat I ever had that was supposed to be a bass type fishing boat was a 15' Aluminum Fisher with two pedestal seats in. You could not sit in those seats without it leaning to one side or the other. That one I sold as soon as I got it ready to sell, which was the case with most of the boats I went through but that one was the WORST!

First part of the size boat equation should be what size tow vehicle do you have, how far do you plan on towing it and what type of terrain. With the vehicle, don't let the manufactures advertised towing capacity sucker you in. You have to think about the fact you need to be able to safely stop a couple of thousand pounds trying to keep pushing you forward when have to make a sudden stop and most boat trailers don't have trailer brakes and a lot that do are those old cheap drum brakes that rarely work worth a darn.

Looks great, I'm sure it feels good to be able to get on the water again. I'll bet it great for just packing it up and going. It does have one major problem that would make it unusable for me with the arthritis in my back and neck. The location of the TM and the seat would not work for me. My canoe is a square back for a motor, and the seat is lower and a lot closer to the motor but I when I ran the TM on it, I had to do it with a mount clamped onto the side next to the seat. It doesn't look like you have that option.

Sounds like your boat is from back in the 80's with the old 12/24 system. If you want to do yourself a big favor, get rid of that AC outlet and plug they used. If you look, it's probably only rated for 30 amps and they are bad about overheating and melting things with these newer TMs that draw way more than 30 amps if you run on Max very long. Usually, they have two red cable and two black cables going from the battery to the bow. The first thing I do when I come across one of those is buy me a pair of SB50 connectors and do away with all the crap at the bow. Put both of the red wires on the positive terminal of the battery, going through a 50-amp breaker to do that. Connect those same two red cables to the positive lug on the SB50. That gives you the equivalence of having one size larger cable, which is better than just one. Connect the black cable to the negative size of the SB50 and negative battery terminal. Put the other SB50 on the TM cable and just plug the two SB50 connectors together, doing away with all that junk the gets hot and reduces performance of the TM.

I quit wearing diapers 76 years ago.

Something to pee in, I keep one of those plastic things they give you in the hospital in my boats but a Gator Aid or quart milk bottle with part of the top cut out works. I don't like advertising to the world what I'm doing and don't like having pee being drip all over the side of my boat. Plus, a wave at the wrong time can have you doing a balancing act standing on the side of the boat.

I deleted this reply, decided it was not appropriate

I think that's mostly just to show they are not the average poor person like most of us. Before I sold my bass boat, I had to manage just how much running around I did, keeping it to no more than 5 to 10 gallons a trip, just so I could afford go more than once a month. Probably take that much just to get out of the no-wake zone on one of those. When you figure a saltwater motor has an average life of less than 10 years before corrosion makes maintenance cost start getting ridiculous, that's a lot of depreciation. Granted, if fishing coastal waters I would prefer two motors for safety's sake, but six, that's a little overboard.

I would suggest you make a mental note of each of the suggestions, reason being, not all ramps are the same and many of these fit their unique situation. After about 60 years' experience of launching boats all over the country, there is no one method that's going to work every time. You will find some ramps don't even have docks. Some are so shallow you have to back your vehicle a good way into the water to get the boat deep enough to float off the trailer. I've had to use the back tire to climb over the side into the bed of the truck and them walk down the trailer to get to the front of the boat to keep from having to walk in the water. Some ramps are so steep, they are actually scary to back down and the boat floats off the trailer before your hitch is even close to the water. Some ramps do have very long docks right beside them so you can pull the boat way back out of the way as soon as it comes off the trailer. Some have the docks 30 feet or more away and extend way out so you have a pretty good walk to get back to your vehicle to go to park it. Usually, you have a area you can move the boat over to, to get it out of the way of the ramp. Some off the beaten path ramps are not "ramps" at all, just where they took a bulldozer and made an angled path into the water. So, while one might fit your favorite place to go perfectly, it may not work at all for another ramp. The ideal situation is to have a partner, one gets into the boat before you launch and the other backs it in and goes parks the vehicle. One thing to remember doing this, if it's a steep ramp, only back the winch strap off several inches but do not disconnect it until the boat is in the water. I have seen a couple of boats launched onto the ramp before it made it to the water where they slid off the trailer. I also hope you are levelheaded and not subject to road rage. A lot of public docks with have big signs saying no fishing off them, but you will find people fishing a get ticked at you because you need to park your boat where they are at. I've even been to less use ramps and people in the middle of the ramp fishing and give lip about launching the boat.

Whether you leave it at the ramp or leave the vehicle at the ramp while you dock the boat, either way, the next person is going to have to wait. I know it looks like it sucks but usually it's a shorter wait leaving it at the ramp than leaving the vehicle at the ramp while you dock the boat and then park the vehicle. Ideally there would be an area next to the ramp you can move the boat to and then park the vehicle. Take if from and old man with severe arthritis. Learn to use the Mirrors to back. There's going to be the day you might not be able to turn around enough to see how to back. Also, if having to maneuver in a tight area and you can't see the fenders turning around to see.

As suggested, make you a check sheet to follow. Also make sure you check your states safety requirements, like some require a signaling device, whistle, air horn etc. Some require you have a paddle, which is a good have anyway to use a push pole, some require a throw cushion and serviceable fire extinguisher if you have a gas motor. All cheap items to have but can be very expensive if you don't have. As for practice, you can do that in your driveway or anywhere, find you a large parking lot during a slow time. Use a spot about 10 feet wide as your practice ramp, drive to it and make your turn like you are approaching a ramp and turn up away from it to get the boat aligned so you have a straight shot back to it. For beginners, it's better to go a few extra feet away from it to make sure the boat is straight with it rather than trying to do a dog leg onto it. Practice the dog leg after you are comfortable with going straight back. LEARN TO USE YOUR MIRRORS! If you are having to wait on someone else for your turn, start doing all your prelaunch routine so you can be read to back it in when your turn. Just leave the front strap hooked but you have everything else done. If launching by yourself, there are a couple of things you can do. 1. Leave the front strap hooked but back it off a couple of turns so it doesn't bind the front of the boat against the stop. Back in, unclip strap, get in boat, back it out and park at the dock, and walk to vehicle and go park it. 2. Unlock the winch after you have the boat trailer tires in the water and then finish backing, the winch will unwind, then pull forward slowly letting the winch strap pull the boat back to the ramp. Unclip strap, park vehicle, leaving the boat on the ramp unless there is room off to one side you can move it to, then come back and get in the boat. 3. Basically the same a 2. but use about a 15' rope clipped into eye on the boat and to the back of trailer so it pulls the boat back. Some winch straps are too short to use. Just make sure the rope is laying down the trailer in a way it won't get caught as the boat slides back. One other thing I've always made it a habit to do is to make a quick feel of my trailer hubs as soon as I get to the ramp. Make sure one is not getting too warm.

I'm just posting what is normally recommended. I worked as an industrial lift truck road service tech for 20 years after retiring from the AF. Mostly on electric equipment and some of this equipment runs two-ton batteries and can draw over 600 amps. I've seen many times what someone thought was a good connection would do. Actually, with that stuff, you don't even use steel washers because of the resistance they create. Like everything, there is always more than one thought on how things should be done. Things like some people see no harm in running a motor before launching the boat to make sure it starts. I even watched a DNR person crank three 200hp Mercs long before the boat got to the water. You won't see me doing that. You see people connecting jumper cables to these modern motors with ECU's, not me! Then they use their boats charging system to charge the probably bad battery, not me! You see and read about people having no issues with running gas that has sat in the tank for months and months, not me! My daddy did it and I've never had a problem with it, that still doesn't make it the proper way of doing something. If and when the day you do have a problem, it's going to be at the most inopportune time it can possibly be. I try to avoid those times.

Everything on the trailer the boat is sitting on should to be adjusted so the hull is evenly supported. The bunks and the front roller are the main support, and they should be adjusted so the front and back of the bunks are evenly supporting the boat with the boat pulled into the stop and sitting on the front roller. Then you adjust the other rollers so they are just putting a small amount of support pressure on the hull. On smaller lighter weight boats this is very critical. Improperly adjusted bunks or rollers can cause the hooks or rockers in the hull. Let a boat develop a rocker from not being supported and it will want to porpoise badly. Hooks create more drag and makes boat slower. Even on a 25mph boat, a hook in the hull can slow one down a couple mph. Over the years, I have seen numbers of boats the hulls were damaged on by sitting on an improperly adjusted trailer.

Actually, if you use wing nuts, you should use some kind of tool, plyers, adjustable wrench etc. There is no way you can properly tighten them with just your hand. Using the picture he posted about his charger, you see how they say fully compress that lock washer they use, you will not do that with just your hand. Many years ago, I used to think just by hand was good enough, until I burnt my fingers taking one off. I was fishing a 600-acre lake and after running on max a good way back to the truck trying to beat a thunderstorm. I quit using wingnuts after that.