johnkn

I think the last thing you would want is to WISH you had purchased the 10' model. Good luck

These boats don't make the best row boats due to their width, hull configuration, and lack of any side oar lock provision. I guess if you wanted to row you would want a single, long, double blade oar/paddle like you would use in a large Kayak. thank you...

Greeting ready to pull the plug and get the boat. I only need a bow mounted trolling motor and want a MinnKota Endura Max 55. Do I want to 36" or 42" shaft? 36" correct? thanks

I've found this style tackle box to work well with these boats. Stows under your seat and you can slide out drawers without moving the box. I agree with the concern of placing rods on the sides of the boat. I'm going to fashion some sort of retention device for both sides when I pick up my boat. Perhaps 2 strips of Velcro on each wide with a dab of 5200 in the middle to hold them down. The last thing I would want would be to have a $600 rod/reel disappear into the darkness. ;^) 68Dave, like this?

68Dave is your olive drab green on bottom and tan upper? Thanks

Wondering though if shipping is factored into the in-store price. If I go to Dicks.com the boat is $699 plus $381 (gulp) shipping. What did you guys pay for boats that are in stock at the store? Thanks

Hi, I'm in southern Md. Curious of the price at Dicks. Did you have to pay any shipping charges? Shipping can sometimes be a killer, I believe these are manufactured in Canada. Thanks

Come on guys, it's freezing here on the East Coast, everyone post a few pics of your boats to warm us up. LoL. Thanks.....

Pics or it didn't happen. Lol Looking for anything to help make it through this winter.

I've worked with fiberglass many times dating back to 40 years ago when I repaired the cracked nose on my first Shelby GT500. Yes its mold able, going ...inside... A mold that is first shot with gelcoat. Based on the OPs comments it sounds like he likely doesn't have a lot of experience with fiberglass. In order to gain any strength on an outside repair he will need multiple layers of mat that will require lots of sanding (always fun getting glass residue on your face and skin) followed by spot filling pin holes followed by more sanding followed by either a quality paint or gelcoat made for under water contact. Then he hopes the repair doesn't crack and break off the first time the boat encounters a flex like these boats do. IMHO determine the hull material and spot fill the deep scratches with the appropriate filler, sand and spot paint to make it water tight, then construct either a strap on wheel set or add small keel sections to prevent further damage. Good luck to the OP.

If you attempt to cover the entire bottom of your boat in mat you will likely end up with an ugly, porous, lumpy, non-adhering, brittle POS mess. Suggest you spot fill any deep scratches with a product that is made for your poly hull, then invest in or fabricate set of removable strap-on wheels to transport the boat so that you don't continue to damage it. Google the strap-on wheels for ideas. An alternative to strap on wheels might be to install a sacrificial keel perhaps 1-2" wide on each side made of starboard, etc., attached with 5200 at the point where each pontoon is most likely to touch the ground. When dragging on the ground those would protect the hull. Good luck...

Greetings, I'm considering buying a Pelican 10e, I see them on the Dick's Sporting Goods web site but it won't allow be to check local stock. I can older through their website, pricing is $699 but shipping is $381!. I'm in Maryland, looks like this is shipped from Canada. Anyone have suggestions on where to buy? I contacted Pelican and they suggested Dicks and Directboats.com which is out of stock. thanks