Theresamarie1

Hey Ronnie, thank you much for the tips and compliment! Sorry about your arthritis, I know that can be bad to live with... it runs in my family too, but I haven't experienced it ... yet. But good to see you can get around it and do what you enjoy. I am really new at this rod building stuff and will continue to take it slowly. The Christmas wrap was just practice, so I know I overdid it. I'm doing the rest of the guides on my test pole in a more 'sane' manner. ;D I didn't realize it should only go right to the edge of the guide, so that's good input. My first real parts are coming Wednesday but think I'll practice a bit more before starting on that project.

Thanks David!! Chris was quite curious as I was wrapping at the Kitchen Island. I've suggested to Chris that he can build a fly rod over the winter. I can't believe I missed that.. thanks. I think I'll redo this rod with Red and a few single wide silvers to cap it off. Wow, thanks. This should be fairly easy to figure out.. maybe I can make a little bag with an aligator clip on it so I can connect it to whatever thread I have there. I can already tell that different threads need different settings even when they have the same sizing. Very cool... that's the sign of experience! I do cycling and have built my own wheels (what else would you expect) and I can tension my wheels by the sound the spokes make. Thank you as always.. a very great help.

Hi all, thought I'd show you guys that I embarked on some practice. I took the wrapping off the bottom guide on a cheap pole and rewrapped it. Since it was practice I kind of overdid things... and it now looks like a Christmas present. ;D Some things I've found out: This requires me to take my glasses off...I am old. This is very hard on the eyes. :'( Thin wraps are hard to hold still The fuzzies are hard to get rid of when you cut a tag end off that you've pulled out. Taking off old epoxy+wrap is bummer, especially if the blank is painted, the paint chips off. I can see how you can get a real sense of accomplishment if you create something nice. Some things I haven't figured out: How to wrap a single thread width. How much tension to use (becase my guides on this test pole are already attached). All the rest of the stuff that goes into a rod build...that'll have to wait for my fed-ex guy next week. Thanks for everyones help here!

Thanks for the advice.. I will do so. Hmmmm.. I've already placed my order to mudhole for a dryer that runs at 11rpm. Seemed like a good compromise. I hope it's not going to be an issue. I'm going to buy my wrapper from my local dealer (to support him) and play around on cheapo rods I have here, and re-thread the guides. So I'll practice on some junk before doing the real thing.

David, thank you for the help! You do some great work and are most generous with your help here given that this is your trade. Nothing I've seen so far worries me much, other than just the practice, and patience, that it'll take to make it look good. I'm sure my first attempts will be far from perfect, so I'll be doing some redo's. I'm no stranger to tools and fine work as I've built model planes with the kids and dabble with old camera repair and restoration. I also do a little furniture building (we have a fully equiped wood shop). I'm a real geek on all fronts! ;D

Thanks Vtbassin, i was hoping it was not going to be any more complicated. Thanks, it was what I was thinking but wasn't sure. Sometimes the more you look around at all of the options, the more unclear it becomes. We're in the Burlington area. But we tend to fish both mallets bay area and north to the border. We haven't done much south of shelburne bay. When you say TI, are you referring to the ticonderoga area? Where and what are you fishing for? We're new to boating on the lake this year so we haven't found out all of the places, in fact we found some summer spots but as soon as it started to cool off, those dried up and we've been searching again. We've mostly found largemouth and pike on the lake, a few smallies here and there. But I think we've not really figured out how to find smallmouths yet. We'll not be out tomorrow afternoon as Chris (other half) works in Newport right now (GC) and doesn't get home until almost 8pm every night (dark). But we'll surely be out all weeekend.

Hi, I'm in the process of ordering parts from Mudhole. I'm going to make a couple of casting rods. One for my Dad which needs to be a 2 piece so it'll fit in the trunk of the Buick, and one for one of my sons which will be a one piece. For the 2 piece, I can't see where the connection between the 2 pieces is defined on the mudhole site or st. croix catalog. Is this something I need to plan for and buy connector parts for, or will the blank come with the connection pre-installed? Also, does this mean the whole 'spine' question a moot point for the 2 piece?? From all I've read here and a couple of other sites people have pointed me to, I have a fairly good idea about the basics, and guess I just have to get to the task at hand to learn more or find out what I don't know. For the rod drying motor, what RPM should I get (they seem to go from 4 to 33)? Also, should I use the same speed for finishing or just turn it by hand when applying the epoxy and just use the motor for drying? Should I get a speed in the middle to do both application and drying, or will it be non-optimal for both? Thank you for all of the help here.

Thanks Portageriverangler, I don't plan on spending huge $$ on my first build. Maybe $100 per rod or so. Just enough, I think, to build a decent quality. I'm going to do 2, one for me and one for my Father. I can practice on mine and hopefully the one for Dad will turn out a bit better. I thought I'd give it to him for Christmas this year.

Thanks Justtrying. A good idea. I'm not shy, about asking questions, and we have a local small outfitter (called classic outfitters). I recently just found them and they do bass fishing and fly fishing equipment including some small rodbuilding supplies (I guess they stock more in winter). They have been pretty helpful so far just like everyone in this forum.

Flechero and Alpster, Thanks for your replies. I don't want to go crazy on the first builds, but want to end up with something better than I already have. I'll continue to do a little more research. Typically for jerkbaits, is it a crankbait-like rod or a worm rod?

Hi all, I bought Tom Kirkman's book and now have more questions. His book seems good for basic concepts and assembly. But doesn't really explain how to select blanks to use for certain types of rods or applications. I'd like to build a couple of bass jerkbait rods for casting/jerking hardbaits. From Tom's book he really likes concept guides so I guess that's what I'll use. These would be for baitcasting reels if it makes a difference (I know it does for guides but wasn't sure about the blanks). Does anyone have recommendations on a high price/performance blank (length, spec's) to use for this application and where I might get them? I understand 'basics' on how guides are placed and statically tested, etc, but how on earth do you start out buying the guides (sizes, heights, etc) when you buy the blank and reel seat. It almost seems like this needs to be a serial process. You buy the blank, make the handle-seat and attach it and the reel to the blank, and then measure for guides and order them. Suggestions or clarifications please?

This summer we ran across a really good deal on a 20' cuddy cabin and we bought it. And we do use it for multiple purposes like Fishing, tubing and skiing. Our primary lake is Lake Champlain. Initially for fishing, it seemed wonderful. Then we started to notice some things not so great, like trolling (it struggles to get below 2.5mph) or staying consistently in one place on the lake (like a dropoff). The last couple of weekends we've been out while there was a bass tournement going on (lake champlain) and you can see how easy it is for these guys in the sleek bass boats to stay in one place dispite having all the wind. The use the little electric trolling motors to keep them stationary. They never have to anchor, and then the just zip from structure to structure. In the cuddy, we typically drift due to the pain of anchoring (and setting in 20' takes a lot of chain/rope) and then we still move around (on the end of the line). We haven't gone to using 2 lines and anchors but that just sounds doubly painful and no fun. Is it possible or practical to put an electric motor on a 20' cuddy? It would have to be the back because the front deck is kind of high off the water. Or would I have to use a gas motor, which I think probably makes too much noise to do what the bass boat electric motors do (keep them in one place without an anchor). I really don't want to have 2 boats. :-/ Anyone else out there in this same predicament?

Ronnie, Thanks for the encouragment and offer of help. Also, for the pointer to rodbuilding.org. Lots of neat stuff there as well. I just ordered by copy of Tom's book from Amazon, should be here early next week. I can't wait!

Reelmech, thanks much.. A whole case of blanks, how long did it take you to build those up (how many is a case?)? Sounds like trial by fire. I can't wait to take a crack at it... all I needed was a little nudging and this is all I needed. 30 hours, now that's more than I was estimating in my head but I don't think I have a good feeling for just how fine the work is. This must be a real labor of love or you custom rod builders sell those beauties for a whole lot of money. They certainly are pretty. You don't have to tell me about that darn baitmonkey. We received another box from basspro today... :'( I'm waiting for some st. croix (premium) rods I ordered from reeds a week ago and am really anxious to see how those feel on the water. My fav rod, the one I broke recently, is an IM7 blank and by far my most sensitive (and enjoyable) rod. While using a nice reel is a joy (there's just something about handling finely engineered tools), the rod was the biggest revelation. You really can start to feel everything whereas my old ugly stiks are like big filters, that filter out all vibrations. Doesn't mean they can't catch fish, just takes some of the interest out. I'll go and order the book and be back asking some questions about where to start after I learn a little.

Hey thanks again Flechero, I'll look for Tom's book. I wish they had some kind of store here to support the site. I don't see it (the book) anywhere here. If I embark on this, I think my first rod will go to my dad. A nice medium job for general fishing. He'd be tickled pink!

Flechero, thanks for all of your input. I may actually give it a try myself but Chris would probably get a kick out of it as well. Ha, we've both been there before so neither of us is in any hurry to do that again. We live in Vermont, so there's lots of winter 'indoor' time that can be spent doing something productive. We're both engineers (him Civil, me Electrical) so we're both into a lot of different hobbies. What's one more! :

Thanks Reelmech! I found a local spot for the tip cement (the solid stick you melt). Thanks for all of your expert input into the forum as well. You are most generous with your information considering this is a business for you. As an aside, do you sell parts? I have a browning A350 agressor from around 10 years ago and wanted to look at replacing some bearings. Do you do this or sell the bearings? The problem with the use of 5 min epoxies is that it takes a lot of heat (upwards of 300+°) to soften it if you ever have to remove the tip again (i e if you knock the insert out), a rod blank will turn to mush at 300°. If you are using the Flexcoat tip top hot glue stick that stuff softens at 200° and is easily done with a lighter and the tip comes off easier.Tight Wraps!!

Hi all of you expert craftsmen. I'm curious about the motivation for building your own rods? I know for those of you who do it for a business, it's just that, business. But for those individuals who are doing it, are you doing it to put a personal mark on your tool or are you doing it to make a much better rod for less money, or maybe both? I noticed that the best st. croix blanks on one of the rod building sites were approximately $130.00 and with guides, cork, seats and guides, this would still be a less than a top of the line st. croix rod. But then you have to know that these top of the line blanks are the same used in the legend. Any idea on how many hours it takes? From what I've read here, it seems tedious, but maybe something I can task my fiance to do over the winter... he drives me crazy when we're not out skiing and he's just hanging around...

Thanks again! The distance from the base of the tip to the next tip is 3" exactly so it looks like I'm ok. BTW, is there any reason I couldn't use epoxy (5 or 20 minute kind) to glue the tip on or does that present a problem.

Thanks Reelmech for the very quick answer. In searching for answers I saw your rod building site.. some very nice stuff! I have some 3 new St. Croix Premier rods coming but this IM7 rod is my current favorite and will still have a place in my arsenal after bringing the new rods in and extracting some old junk.

Hi, hope this is the right place to post this quesiton.. I broke the tip on my current favorite rod. I broke it 2" from the end, it's an 7' IM7 blank if that means anything. I removed the tip from the piece that broke off (fuji concept guide) and it seems in good condition. I've read about the process for replacing the tip on the end of the rod with stick glue (flexcoat I think). I can get the glue stick from bass pro. My question, and I can't find the answer, is do I need to do the thread wrapping below the tip or is this just decoration? I think the threads hold the other guides on so are an intergral part of the build but the tip, I don't think, uses thread to hold it on. Also, once the thread is on, and that's if I do need it, is there any other coating besides the color protector to make it hard and keep it there?? Thanks for your help.

I too am suffering from too many bags of plastics and no good storage solution. Come on all of you experts, share your storage and organization secrets.

Thanks ReelMech! What's your take on the Quantum Accurist previously suggested? I am returning my prodigy and want to get another similar priced, but good performance, reel. If it isn't good, I'll just wait till something better goes on sale. Thanks. It won't... Most house brand or (re-brand) reels are made by the manufacturers on a one time run basis, and made for combo sales. The manufacturers usually do not support or service the reels. The Daiwa® PT33SH has been around since the early 90's, it is a workhorse reel for Daiwa® and has been well supported by the manufacturer for all those years. You cannot write anything bad about the Shimano® Chronarch, or Curado reels. Very smooth well supported reels by the manufacturers. Theresamarie1, Welcome to the forum!! Tight Lines All!!!

Thanks Bass-Brat. I've been fishing for a long time with Gramps, Dad, and 3 brothers and now my 3 sons. Mostly generic fishing(whatever species came along) except when with Gramps who liked to fish for channel cats on a channel that emptied into Lake St. Claire in Michigan. We caught some 'huge' catfish. But I've recently become interested in targetting bass since we've bought a boat and have close access to lake champlain. We've caught a few 17-20" largemouths, and some smallmouths and they're a lot of fun. Previously my favorites have been big pike but the Bass are just as much fun and don't have all of the slime and mess. I've been scouring all of the forum for answers to my questions first before posting.

Hi, My first contribution to the site. I have this reel, and will be returning it soon. I purchased it on sale and here's my experience. 1) looks and feels really cheap. Lots of plastic. The gold shiny plastic is the worst! 2) Casts just ok (low side) for distance, but is pretty good for keeping backlashes out of the spool. Myself I'd rather have a longer cast and have more fine control of the spool myself. Even with mag control turned lowest I couldn't get a decent cast with the spool tension correct. 3) My biggest issue is that the button is jaming on mine. I'll do a cast and try to start to reel but the button will not come back up and it jams. It's happened a couple of dozen times and I think it's time to be returned. 4) The 7 bearings don't seem to make it smoother than other reels. The whole bearing thing doesn't seem to tie to quality. I have a browning A330 with 3 bearings and feels infintely smoother while retrieving (and casts better) than the prodigy. Best Regards, Terri