Wayne P.

1. Zoom Finesse Worm 2. Zoom Trick Worm 3. Rapala X-Rap

The Rig-N hook and G-lock fit the tubes better due to their shorter shank.

Yes, Dwight it has the Mudbug diving lip but it is not bent like the Mudbug lip is. It may be a version of the Mudbug. The web site shows a white Mudbug in the larger size. It just may the original Bomber before all the other versions like the Mudbug and Waterdog were marketed.

Rolo, yes you are missing something. From the arborgastlures.com web site: Mud-Bug This is one of the all time favorite crawfish imitating crankbaits. The Mud-Bugs quick diving wide wiggle creates a hard vibrating action and ensures its ability to run deep and bump the bottom. This unique action has made it a big fish favorite of serious anglers. Its high floatability allows it to back out of heavy cover on a slack line eliminating potential hang-up situations. One of the best times to fish a Mud-Bug is during the early Spring when the big bass are in a pre-spawn situation. Make sure that the lure comes in contact with the bottom and surrounding cover to ensure more strikes. Heavy line is a must when fishing this lure through and around thick, heavy cover.

It will make a difference if you think it will, and it won't make any differene if you think it won't. The fish don't care either way.

I have a couple dozen spinning rigs for that presentation. The most effective set-ups involve the bait being thrown. 95% of the time I am using either a Zoom Finesse or Zoom Trick worm. For the finesse worm, I use a 6' medium action rod. For the Trick worm, I use a 6'6" medium heavy rod. With both I use the Shimano spinning reels with the 6.2:1 gear ratio. I only fish Senkos (rarely) with baitcasting gear.

suicidenemesis, that 48 degree water was in Texas in December 2009.

Another fish symbol test view:

This is fish ID, the little fish symbols are indicating suspended ballons during a cone coverage test. Obviously they were not fish.

There is also barnacles in brackish tidal waters that will cut the superlines so a hard mono or fluorocarbon leader is a must.

There is also barnacles in brackish tidal waters that will cut the superlines so a hard mono or fluorocarbon leader is a must.

There is also barnacles in brackish tidal waters that will cut the superlines so a hard mono or fluorocarbon leader is a must.

They can't operate like auto GPS units since there are no roads to travel or cites to go to by water (most places anyway). Lake mapping is not a requirement for function but a nice addition. The mapping softwere has no function regarding the GPS, it is just overlayed on the screen as a reference. Basically you cannot pick a location to go to and the unit will guide you around obsticles whether it is a point or island, etc. The main thing about the GPS units is the abitity to save locations (waypoints) that allow you to return to them from anywhere in the world. The plotter (track plotter) units will draw a line on the display as you move about and you can follow that line back to its beginning. That line (track) can be saved also. The plotter units will put a straight line on the screen between your starting position and any saved waypoint that you chose to go to that will help you get there.

I do the same, but I use a lead egg sinker that I flatten with a hammer. It takes up less room inside the chair leg tip and gives a better fit.

I suspect one of the reasons is there are probably a couple hunderd thousand anti-fishing people on the left coast for every fisherperson and the market is not there.

To help the fish especially in hot weather, obtain some Armaflex sheet insulation 1/2" and glue it to the underside of your livewell lid/s. If your boat has a built-in cooler, put it under the lid also.

Four of my reels have Samurai that has been used for more than two years. Two of them have the 30# and two of them have the 40#. I have several more reels with 40# that was installed before this past Spring. I also have two reels with the 40# Saltiga installed in June. I don't use the 30# at the flooded timber lake. I have caught over 2,000 bass this year with the Samurai. None of them have the fraying that you show.

I use about 4' of 20# fluorocarbon line with 8# mono equivalent diameter superline for weightless finesse. I use the fluorocarbon for weight to make the braid sink. If I am using the same presentation with added weight, I do not use a leader. See avatar

I use the 40# Samurai and Saltiga for finesse presentation in stuff like this very often. No problems and no fraying.

Dedicated fluorocarbon leader material is stiffer with a harder surface than casting fluorocarbon that has to be limper and more manageable. It is usually sold in lengths that are used for saltwater fishing rigging. It is also packaged in loops a lot larger in diameter than casting line spools are due to the increased memory it has.

slonezp, that rig is what I call the Weedless Wacky Rig. It was designed to handle big bass in heavy cover with a presentation that they can't refuse.

J, no I am not inferring that those two brands are less durable than Tracker. Just stating the welding process is more durable if done properly, with the proper materials, and support.

slonezp, I checked their websites and you are correct. After further investigating, it seems that the thickness of the aluminum, the expertise needed for welding, and the hull bracing determines if rivets or welding is suitable. Airplanes have thin aluminum and welding aluminum makes it brittle at the weld site: it will crack during flexing. Thicker aluminum with "quality" welding is best for a "rugged" boat. Maybe Lund and Alumacraft companies don't have the expertise to create a durable welded hull with proper bracing to lessen hull flex. The list of welded aluminum boats is quite long. Do a Google search on the subject. Tracker makes riveted and welded jon boats. The riveted ones are the thinner aluminum, lighter weight models. Thanks for the reply.

slonezp, the "flexing" is what makes the riveted hull leak since it enlarges the rivet holes or wears down the rivets themslves. The "dealer" that inferred a welded hull is not as good as a riveted hull is an IDIOT. Yes both of those companies mfg riveted hull boats and welded hull boats. The riveted ones are the CHEAPER ones. That does not infer durability, only mfg cost in less material strength and assembly method.

You may get on plane with the 5HP depending on the total weight, but no way with the 2.5. I would guess 3-4 mph with the 2.5 hp and 10 mph with the 5 hp. I used to run a Merc.2.2 on a 10' jon boat and it was just a little faster than one of former 4 hp rated Minn Kota electric motors "back in the day".