HiVoltage

I dont believe the blank is cracked. The eyelet got tweaked back and i believe thats what cracked the glue.

Hey guys, i picked up a duckett ghost at field and stream tonight. Long story short a diesel can slid onto it in the bed of the truck and cracked the clear glue on one of the upper 3 eyelets. Is there a product out there i can use to seal it back up?

I see. Looks like i need to fork out some cash for a new one then!

Sorry fellas im new to big outboards... I have a xp150 evinrude that came with a beat up, bent, 24p raker 3 blade. I put an aluminum 19p solas on and it runs great and im in the rpm range that this motor needs. My question is, can i send that raker off to a prop shop and get a 19p out of it?

Thank ya sir, best dog i got! Anyway, i went with the switch option. I think i was looking to far into it before. I was thinking i would have to be throwing the switch all the time but now that i think about it, thats kinda dumb. I got the switch and my minn kota 3 bank on board charger installed tonight. Thanks for the help.

I dont remember the CCA of my cranking battery right off the top of my head. I do have breakers but no battery switches. This is on an older procraft. Not sure if it never came with them or if they were removed at some point. My stereo is nothing crazy, alpine deck, 4 channel amp, and two 6x9 speakers. I do understand the point of a battery switch, but the reason i was thinking the relay would be nice is because it would automatically cut the deep cycle away from the cranking battery when the motor is not running, without having to flip the switch. Am i wrong in thinking that?

Hey guys, i have a situation that im hoping someone has a little insight on. Let me give you some background info, i have 2 batteries in series for my 24v trolling motor, and i have a 3rd battery by itself that runs most everything else on the boat as well as starts my engine. Now, recently i added two helix 7's and a stereo to the boat. After 4 hours or so of fishing and listening to the radio without having run the engine, i killed my starting battery. I have a 3 bank Mk onboard charger as well. I am trying to come up with a good way to add a deep cycle battery to the boat to run my stereo and fish finders. I would like to be able to charge this battery with the engine, and the onboard charger if at all possible. The battery switch seems like it would be a pain to worry about switching batteries all the time. Can i add a voltage sensing relay inbetween my starting battery and this new auxilary deep cycle, and just keep on running the way ive always been?

Thanks wayne! That sounds perfect as i was planning to purchase another helix 7 to match my console unit.

I'm new to the world of down imaging electronics. I've read a lot of things on the net lately about down imaging but one thing i cannot seem to find a solid answer for is, Can you mount your down imaging transducer onto your trolling motor like you would with a regular old sonar? Some people say the image isn't good because of the fact that the trolling motor head is always moving. Thanks in advance fellas.

Thank fellas i appreciate everyones input!

Thanks for the input. Ive started to think replacing the unit completely may be my best bet. Im sure the newer motors are a lot more efficient as well as quiter and easier operated. If i was to go that route, any suggestions? Would like to stay on a 24v system.

Hey guys im new here but im hoping someone can help me out. I just bought an older procraft 1780 and it has what i was told to be a 60 or 65 lb bow mount motor guide. Other then that information i know nothing else about this trolling motor as it is an older model and almost nothing on the motor is legible anymore. It seems to work good besides the fact that speeds 1 and 2 do not work. Only 3,4,5. I believe my issue lies in the rheostat switch in the foot controller. Can anyone tell me where to begin my search for a replacement switch? Thanks in advance! -Dalton