mike33667

hey all! so i just purchased a brand new triton trx 179. The trim gauge was not working when i went to pick it up, dealer mechanics worked on a few parts but couldn’t get it going so they are ordering me a brand new setup for the whole unit/wires, but said it might be a little bit with this corona shutdown. ive had the boat out 7-8 times now in the two weeks i’ve owned it and here’s the thing. the first time i start the boat the trim gauge works perfectly (aside from the very first outing) and will work until i shut it off. After the first time i turn it off it won’t work, stays pegged at the top (trim all the way up). I have a lot more knowledge with carpentry then i do making motors crank or electric run. i read that the trim gauge requires 12v to work, the boats inboard charger doesnt hook to the main cranking battery that the gauges run off of so i hooked a charging unit up to that. was only reading 40% guess the battrry has been sitting for a bit. question- do you think once it’s fully charged the trim gauge will work always? should i still take advantage of the new unit once it arrives at the marina? and lastly with the battery being brand new but reading so low should i ask for a new cranking battery or should a new battery that’s been sitting too long (assumed) be good once it’s charged back up. sorry for the questions i seem to have horrible luck with new boats working properly (3-3 with different dealers) on brand new rigs. if it matters the motor is a mercury 115 pro xs.

734 if you are going to stick to 3/8oz the majority of the time 735 if you plan to use 1/2 oz more. i love my 734 paired with a 3/8 jig and pig but it is a little light for a 1/2 oz in cover. dobyns run light

Thanks, sorry I think I made it more confusing than it had to be attached is a photo of how I am familiar with the brake system where the top of the shoe is removed and it lays flat on the drum/cone.

I just picked up a new in box, older shimano metanium a local bait shop had sitting in the back room for a great price. set it all up and went fishing with it this weekend but it has me scratching my head if I set the braking system up wrong. This model has 6 brakes on the SVS system so I "thought" I turned 3 off 3 on. BACKLASH central. Kept messing with it and finally ended up with what I thought was all 6 on and the micro adjustment to 5 and I still needed to set the spool tension knob fairly tight to keep from creating big backlashes. I have been trying to find a video on this model and was only able to come across one with the same reel that I have which leads to my question: should the brake be engaged by keeping the top of the brake engaged (locked on) and the bottom removed so the SVS brake just wiggles slightly? I had removed the top of the brake so the plastic SVS break was laying flat on the reel spool as I do with newer model curado's. I hopefully will have a photo up that helps. this is what I was able to screenshot off the video I watched of how the gentleman in the video set his brakes (which would be the opposite of what I was doing" I am hoping I was just doing it wrong as I fish all my curado's with one break on and the tension knob almost free-spool and don't have any issues. using #12 tatsu fluoro and a 7' H dobyns champion 3/8 jig with trailer. once I had the settings the way I described the reel casted amazing and was a pleasure to use I just felt like a complete newbie having what I believed to be all 6 breaks on the micro adjust almost maxed and the tension knob set to where the bait wouldn't budge. I am hoping that if I do the breaks this way they engage and I can try 2 breaks on and regular spool settings. sorry for the long winded post I just don't want to mess up a good reel by my stupidity.

doesn't seem like you really have any questions just want to gripe and be a smart a$$ when members give their advice. 30 smallmouth over the course of a couple months i'd be d**n happy to catch them on anything they will eat. i have found that if i don't use a rod i don't catch many fish on it, maybe you should try that with your panfish rod.

this maybe a silly question and i believe i already know the answer but i have been unable to find the definitive answer through my searches. looking to purchase a lowrance elite ti7 and my question is on the transducer. will i need to go with the totalscan transducer to have side imaging?

Thanks for the replys so the plot thickened and my heart is laying somewhere I can't find.... i have a bayliner I purchased new last year and owed more then it was worth blah blah blah figured I'd get a cheaper bass boat and keep the bayliner for a few years. Then searching the web found a great 2010 skeeter 190zx at a local marina that had also reviews. This boat was loaded to the gills with extras at a decent price sent my info over and I couldn't believe they made me a good offer as a trade in. Went last weekend to check the boat out it was sweet put some money down blah blah blah and they said it would be ready this Friday (tomorrow). Also told me it was a consignment boat for a guy who upgraded. Didn't think much of the fact..... I get a email At noon saying it went through service and everything was working perfect I can come pick it up tomorrow. Get Friday off so I can pick the boat up and try her out, figured I better since I signed up for a tournament on Saturday. Well 445 roles around and I am one happy dude....until the marina calls....some how the owner decided he didn't like the marinas terms as far as commission for whatever reason and pulled the boat. Marina called me me and I feel like the salesman might have been more upset then I was. This place had been amazing to deal with very friendly answered everything I had to ask immediately and then a kick in the groin that they can't get me the boat. Of of course they are giving me my bayliner and deposit back but man this ones going to leave a mark for a long time. They have some real nice Lowe stingers I'm considering getting since it would take care of my big problem (owning a bowrider when I want a bass boat) and I have approved finance through them but I am afraid I'm just settling at this point. 2 weeks ago I'd trade the bayliner on a tracker 175 in a heartbeat but after sitting in that skeeter and daydreaming about the bass I'd be catching out of it going to be a tough pill to swallowing walking away with a aluminum bass boat with 1/3 the engine. Another local marina has the same skeeter 190zx a year newer 2011 decked with 2 hds7s and humming bird 8somethings for the same price but have been emailing and calling for 2 weeks trying to find out if they are willing to take a trade in on the bayliner for what I have to put down. Sucks totally sucks just just wanted to rant somewhere so sorry this is long winded. Has anyone here been in my shoes? How did you recover?

thanks, I keep going back and forth on these two....that's why I posted. I think I would be happy with either boat, the tracker has distance from me and size in its favor. But the ranger has the fact its a ranger and fiberglass on its side. 6 hours to go check out the ranger so I want to make sure that its the one I would go with if everything checks out. keep the thoughts coming!

Hey everyone, was looking for some helpful insight. looking at two different bass boats, ones aluminum and one fiberglass. fishing will be on smaller lakes with the occasional trip to bigger bodies of water but nothing huge. will be fishing some smaller tournaments but nothing crazy, half of them are on electric only lakes. not looking to set any speed records out there just cruise from spot to spot. 1.) 2003 Tracker 185 90hp merc, 67 thrust trolling motor HDS7 and HDS5 fish finders 2.) 1996 ranger R70 90hp Johnson 70 thrust trolling motor 2 HDS5 fish finders both rigs I would imagine will handle similar, the tracker I was able to drive out and look at and it was nice, could tell it was well taken care of. the ranger would be a couple hour drive for me, dealer says it went through inspection and was solid/ran well. attached is links to both, what would you choose and why http://www.townemarine.com/pre_owned_detail.asp?veh=4893877 http://www.conradbrothers.com/pre_owned_detail.asp?veh=4894288

hey first post here but have been trolling around for awhile, lots of good information to be found in these pages! so here is my issue, last year spur of the moment, I bought a boat. I had planned on waiting until spring but then I made the boneheaded mistake of pulling into a marina and checking out what they had to offer. Before I knew what happened I was driving away with a boat! problem is this: Boat is a bow rider. to be honest I really like the boat, but the issue is I spend 95% of my time on the water fishing, and while I have landed a lot of fish off the boat its simply not a ideal fishing vessel. I'm looking to trade it in and get into something more fish friendly that allows me to do more what I want. here is my question/concern. how much is it going to hurt the wallet letting this boat go and moving onto another one? bought brand new last fall and have done everything to keep it in great condition. 2016 bayliner sticker price of $27k looking to get into a fishing rig around $15-18k. side note: if anyone wants to lend there thoughts of boats to look at, 95% of my fishing is for bass our two local lakes that allow engines are small and I intend to get it out on a few decent size electric motor only lakes. would like to be able to sit 3 people....I have been torn between a smaller aluminum bass boat with a smaller engine (50-90hp) or a aluminum deep v with 3 pedestal seats....reason for the deep v is I'm thinking it will be a little more comfortable for times we aren't fishing. Also I take one trip up to the thousand islands every year and want to have enough boat to make the trip worth towing the boat up.