Captain Torpedo

Cool. Thanks for the tip. Very similar to the BPS ones.

Hi guys, I've got different rods that require balancing but I'd not want to drill, cut, remove the butt end to add screw on weights. I was thinking of wrapping the butt with lead wire or tape and covering it with tape. I was also thinking of getting shrink wraps end caps and putting brass or lead in it before shrink wrapping it to the butt. I know that BPS has something that goes on the end but I'm trying to keep the profile to a minimum and they are a one size fits all. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

I know that the topic of which glue is best for weed guards is best, but this is something different. I've been using super glue (Krazy Glue) to glue in my weed guards and they're holding well. However, I notice that the smell is still there after it dries. Will that smell of amonia or whatever effect the fish since they have a good sense of smell? Thanks

thanks man!

Hi Guys, What method do you use to tie on your skirts? Does anyone use one of those fly tying vices to hold the jig? Do you seperate the tab strands before hand? And how the heck do you get the tabs to stay where you want them while winding the wire? So many questions ... any answers... best practices? What's your method? Thanks!

Thanks Cadman. I'm using a heating gun to heat up the jig and powder coating it. The finish looks awsome, but I'm not re-baking the jig. Is it necessary? Does it make that much of a difference? I do notice that the powder is a bit brittle when I re-drill the weed guard hole. Will re-baking it make the coating that much harder and less brittle?

Thanks guys, If you dip the jig head, how are you saving paint or making it a thinner coat than just fluffing it up in a jar and doing the same thing.

Hi guys, Just finished building a fluid bed and tried it out. My question is, do you have to dip the heated jig head in the bubbling powder or just swish it around the powder cloud that it makes? Just curious because the powder cloud gets messy and doesn't attach to the jig.... not to mention it's messy as hell. Thanks

Hey Nate. Just finished printing a drop shot minnow mold. Took about 1.5 hours to complete. Can't wait to go home and pour some baits. Myself and another teacher are working on these projects together. We're designing them on Inventor 2010 then exporting the file as an .stl file. Send me a file in that format. I'm looking for a Chigger Chunk design to make next.

We got a new 3D printer at school last month and I already tried making some soft plastic molds. If you send me the file, I can run off a prototype.

I wouldn't mind a link to those fluid bed plans. Can someone hook me up with a link? Thanks

Anyone know an alternative to using fiberglass resin that doesn't smell like toxic sludge? Other than metal, what's the next best thing to cast a mold in?

I'm doing flat sided baits to start. I sthere a better casting material than fiberglass resin? That stuff smells really bad.

I poured some baits for the first time on a custom mold that I made with fiberglass resin. Unfortunately, the model baits began to float and making most of the mold useless. After they cooled, I put them down on glossy photo paper and they fused to the paper. I tried this with other baits (yamamoto, yum, etc) and they also fused. It seems the softer the plastic the more they bonded. I ended up having to rip them off in pieces. It felt like it was on fly paper. I wish I would have known about this before so I could have placed all of my model baits on glossy paper and placed the paper on the bottom of the pan before I poured the resin.

Anyone heard any news or have experience with Ouzo Baits?

Anyone know where I can order Do-It moulds in Canada?

I need an opinion on which flourocarbon is best. I'm thinking between BPS and Trilene Pro Grade. Any suggestions on these or others?