papajoe222

This, and you may be attempting to move it too much. A very short twitch is all it takes to move the head of a frog to the side. Anything longer will result in it moving toward you.

I add split rings to all my Spooks. I prefer the oval type, but many of mine still have the original split ring I put on them. I can't speak for Sammys because I don't use them, but I like my Spooks to sit tail down when I want them to stay in an area and sit vertical if I want to keep the bait moving toward me. A Sammy, although a walking bait, I think would work better without a split ring as their action also combines the nose of the bait rising up and the extra hardware might dampen that part of the action. At the very least, I'd tie a loop knot on any walking bait, including frogs, that I don't use a split ring on.

Their deep little N is a must have in these parts and a DD22 is my #1 deep crank

There may not be an difference in fall rate, but I guarantee there is a difference in the way they fall and that can make all the difference when it comes to getting bit, or getting hung up. Internal jigs or weights will give the tube a spiraling fall which adds to the attraction of the bait. There are conditions that are not optimal for this such as when fishing weeds or brush as the tube can wrap around the cover. Those are times when a T-rigged tube will get the nod from me. BTW, don' forget C-rigging as an 'external weight' option. Add a piece of Styrofoam inside the tube and you can float it above emergent vegetation for a killer presentation.

I will wait until I feel the fish after I take in the slack line the majority of the time. A quick hook set rather than a hard one and if they're not holding on to the bait, I'll just reel without attempting to set it. For some reason when the fish feel the resistance, they'll turn and basically hook themselves. One thing I will mention is that I see way too many anglers using mono that isn't heavy enough for this type of presentation. Heavy (17lb.+) mono will not only lay on top of the water better than lighter line, it will increase the odds of a good hook set.

I started experimenting with traditional tube jigs and found no reason NOT to use them. I've also tried weighted swimbait hooks, but some of the tube's inherent action is lost on the fall. The Stupid Jigs have the line tie and head design that's makes rigging this way a lot easier and it also seems to add to the action. I'll definitely be giving them a good amount of experimental time when I get out.

I'll start out using walking baits under calm conditions. poppers or chuggers if there's a little chop on the surface and prop baits if there's a good chop on the water, buzzbaits get the nod when I'm fishing specific targets or looking for active fish and covering water. I'll experiment with different speed retrieves before opting to change to a different type topwater.

If the wind is blowing into the shore and there is some shallower water there, that should be a good spot through the spawn. You say you've been told the one area is 10-12ft. deep. I'd check the steeper drop with either a jig or tube Texas rigged. Cast it out and count it down. when it hits bottom your count will tell you approximately the depth. You'll need a heavier weight in the wind, but along with determining the depth, you'll be checking out the fish's activity level. If they'll hit the faster falling bait, they're pretty active and you can switch to a spinnerbait to cover it a little quicker. You can then count down the spinnerbait (no trailer hook) to the depth where you first contact the cover and work it there for active fish. This would also be my choice for the side with all the timber, but unless your ability to feel your line coming over limbs is pretty good, I'd stick with a jig or worm as you would likely get hung up and loose some s/b's. If you have bigger cranks, both size and running depth, you can bounce them off the timber. Just be sure to pause when you feel it bump a limb. If the bump is a fish, it'll pull back. if it's a stump, a short pause will float the crank above it and you can continue your retrieve.

Received a pkg. of Pit Boss baits today as part of my club renewal pkg. and was wondering what you guys think of the Havoc baits in general. I've used their Power baits and wasn't impressed enough to switch over to them. I like the fact that these baits appear to be tougher than other beaver style baits I've tried and they are molded with a grove on the top side for more hook exposure while still remaining weedless. When it comes to soft plastics I've learned not to go by appearances when making a purchase decision. Experienced reviews would be appreciated.

Great advice. I wonder if there are any parental controls that would block access to fishing related sites???? Mace, I feel your pain. Literally I missed out the better part of the 2003 season after shoulder surgery on that same arm. The surgery was done on the wrong shoulder, ergo the mistake shoulder reference.

I've been a member of a private club for over thirty years and the catching is just as tough there as on the public lakes I frequent. The fish aren't stocked and they get a ton of pressure from the members and their guests throughout the season. They do stock trout and cats and they are fun to catch also, but I don't think it's sportsmanlike to brag about the numbers or size of those. I will, and have, over my PB bass of 7.3lb and my best outing of 34 bass taken from there though. It's kind of like going to a madam's house and bragging about the looker you got to nail vs. working at getting some there for free.

I've dealt with a similar situation and would only visit the nonproductive lake a few times a season. I finally figured out how to catch some fish and was pleasantly surprised at their size as I'd assumed there wouldn't be any decent size fish because of the lake's accessibility. I had given up on it until I began night fishing with some regularity and decided to give it another shot at night. My guess is that with the lack of cover and structure, the fish suspended and roamed during the day and wouldn't get active until low light conditions. The first time I night fished it was during a first quarter moon phase and I was pleased at my success. The second time was during a full moon on a cloudless night and I was only rewarded with one nine inch dink. Catching fish is fun, that's why we do it. Figuring out how to get them to bite is rewarding, that's why we persist at it.

Getting the boat ready to go out today I was reaching under the console from outside the boat. The stepstool I was standing on collapsed and as I fell, my arm caught under it and the rail. Thought I broke it, but torn triceps and a severe strain on the major support muscles on the back side of my mistake shoulder will have me on the 15day D/L. I'll try not to whine and work hard at keeping the green eyed monster in check as I read all about your spring successes.

I like a spinnerbait when it comes to covering a lot of water as I can fish it most anywhere in the water column without switching baits. If I know there are fish in the area and approximately what depth they're holding, I'll opt for a crank. Then I'll mop up with a jig or T rigged worm.

I'd use a 'two gun' approach. Either a lipless crank or spinnerbait over the top of the grass and on the edges, followed by a slower presentation that gets down into the grass. Soft plastic of some sort. Don't forget the deep side of the hump, especially pre and post spawn and if you know the area gets a lot of pressure.

Surprisingly, bass can see fairly well in off colored water. The detail of what they're looking at is diminished as is the distance they can see, so unless you're talking muddy water, bright colors like Fireetiger or Chartreuse will bring out the detail. Adding sound and/or vibration will get their attention from distances beyond their vision. Dark colored baits can be used with slow presentations like soft plastics that are used for close up presentations. The dark contrast to it's surroundings where getting them to move close enough to clearly see isn't important. This also applies to fishing at night, with the possible exception of top water baits that the fish will silouette against the night sky. Muddy water is a different situation as the fish's sence of sight doesn't come into play when feeding. That's when sound and vibration are your key concerns. Loud rattles, wide wobbling cranks, Colorado bladded spinnerbaits, or Chatterbaits are good choices for hard baits. RageTails and other plastics that give off a lot of vibrations are good soft bait choices and you can always add a rattle. Oh yea, Don't forget a good ole black and blue jig with a big trailer

I got thrown overboard last year and luckily just missed banging my head on a submerged boulder. I was the only one on the lake. there wasn't anyone even shore fishing. luckily I was able to catch up to my boat and climb back aboard. On the drive back home I realized my wife had no idea what the name of the lake was, or where it was located for that matter. I don't normally give her an ETA, but since that mishap, she gets the whole enchilada and if I decide to stay out longer, she gets a call. That is, of course, if I don't go for another swim with my I-phone in my pocket. BTW, I now wear an automatic inflatable PFD whenever I'm out by myself.

If you're talking Lake Owen in Bayfield, you're talking one deep lake. If fishing deep isn't your strong suit and the bass have spawned, a dock pattern in either of the two north narrows could be productive. Also, the shallower slopped shore in Horseshoe bay, I believe it's the west shore has some excellent docks that seem to hold fish all summer. Tubes and Flukes are good choices and green pumpkin and watermelon are good color choices. If you decide to fish Otter Bay in the south section, stick to the upper portion just off the main lake. Top waters in bone or with red heads and square bills with a wide wobble work well there and the locals don't often use in-line spinners, but they can be killers, especially a squirrel tailed Mepps with copper blades and body. Stick with flouro as your line choice as, even in any off colored water you can find, it will give you an edge over guys fishing mono. On your top waters, I wouldn't go heavier than 10lb. test mono. This is a great fishing lake, but pre-fish it if you get the chance. If not, check out Google Earth's satellite photos and you'll get an idea of the color variation throughout the lake. Good Luck and let us know how you do.

I hate when people misquote me. I never call a bass 'she'

I go with the NetBait Paca Craw line-up, but if I'm looking for something with a little less action, I like the Yum Craw Papy

Keep in mind the fact that big fish don't move around much. When they do, it's to feed or spawn. In either situation they want to be in close proximity to those areas. Look for cover on structure close to feeding or spawning flats. Weeds or rocks on a main lake point, where a creek arm connects with the main lake on a reservoir or a ledge with chunk rock or other cover close to a flat ate examples. Now look for something different in those areas. A lone stump, change in bottom composition or type of weeds, even a slight depression will be spots big fis will call home. This is what is referred to as a spot on a spot. Also, once you catch a good sized fish, make a note of its exact location as that spot will continually produce for you. Be prepared to experience fish less days when targeting big fish. The bites will be few though there will be times when you'll find an area that holds numbers of big fish and those are the days that more than make up for the days you feel were just casting practice.

Hook size depends a lot on personal preference and size (diameter) of the plastic bait used. EWG offset hooks are the most popular for rigging plastics. I carry everything from 1/0-6/0. If you'll be doing any finess rigging, you will likely need smaller. For weights I'd also go with an assortment from 1/8oz. to 1/2oz. bullet style in whatever material your pocketbook is comfortable with buying. Again there are specialty weights. Line is a personal preference based on application. for you, a flouro and for her either mono, or what's labeled as a co-polymer like Yo-Zuri. Keep your selection of bait styles small until you determine your own likes. Spinnerbaits, cranks for different depths, one or two top-waters (avoid Spooks for now) and some jigs is assorted weights should give you a good start. Have fun, and don't be intimidated by all the gear you see at BPS. You'll likely have most of it at your house once you get hooked on bassin' but for now, keep the bait monkey in the car, or get a second mortgage before you go.

I like the fact that they use quality components and the beveled OK blade is unique to this brand. A-Jay, you should try and you probably have, the Terminator series when fishing where there's pike. I drop a split ring over the R-bend and attach a wire leader. That titanium shaft bounces back fish after fish.

If you're close in your estimate of the water temp. you'll likely need to do some experimenting. Fish location and activity levels will be determined by a couple of factors, but water temp., more importantly rising or falling temp., will dictate that more than anything. If there're have been a few warm days in a row and the surface temp. is rising, the fish could be more active and a faster moving bait fished in the upper water column. If the air temp has been dropping, or if it's overcast after a couple of sunny days, they could be deep and in a neutral mood and you may need to fish a slower presentation on, or close to the bottom. My suggestions revolve around those two conditions. If the water is warming and it's a partly cloudy to sunny day, find an area on the north or north east shore that the wind is blowing into and wait until the afternoon to go out (if that's an option). If the weather has been unstable, look for a similar area protected from the wind. If you know the lake, try to pick an area with deeper water nearby. In either situation, whether fishing deep or shallow, I'd start out with a moving presentation like a crank or spinnerbait and switch to a slower one if that doesn't produce. A jerkbait or drop shot will cover the shallow and deep with possibly a suspending crank paused repeatedly as a back up. Have fun and let us know how you do.

They're my #2 confidence bait and seeing as I am the consummate purveyor of big baits at my club, I like the big ones. NetBait offers their BK Tube in a 5.25in. version that you can fish weightless like a fluke and can still skip it under docks. Rig one with an internal weight and give 'em something different when flippin', especially if you're looking for a slow falling presentation. Love the action of those Shak-e jigs when rocked bck and forth. Never thought of using a tube with them. Thanks Bobby. Something different for me to try.