ITO_ZILLION

For this setup...I am planning on sticking to throwing 1-3oz swimbaits, topwaters and rats/wakebaits. I know that for anything over 3oz...I would probably have to upgrade to a 300-400 sized reel.

Trying to decide between the Daiwa Tatula 150 and 200. What are the main differences between the two...? They look like 'exact' copies of each other. The only differences I can find is the larger line capacity on the 200 and Magforce Z on the 150 vs regular Magforce on the 200. Looking to get a dedicated reel for large swimbaits, topwaters and wakebaits/rats. The baits I plan on throwing with this reel will probably be around 1oz and heavier. Is there any benefits to having Magforce Z when throwing baits over 1oz...? Is Magforce Z only beneficial for a specified weight range...? I am in a tight pickle since I really want both. I like the 150 since it has Magforce Z and could afford me some more 'versatility' and therefore being able to fish a wider range of baits and weights. On the other hand, I am also trying to stay away from using braid to a leader and only sticking to using mono or fluoro. Therefore the larger line capacity of the 200 would come in handy when using larger lines like 20-25lb and not having to worry about spooling the whole reel and having decreased IPT at the end of a really long cast. Totally slipped my mind but does anyone know if the spools are interchangeable between the 2...? If so, I could just buy a 200 spool for the 150 right...? But does this mean I won't have Magforce Z anymore and therefore I would just be back to having a 200 with regular magforce...? In other words...The Magforce Z is built into the 150's spool right...?

Does anyone know if the newly released Daiwa Zillion 10.0 SV TW has the ‘zero adjuster’ style spool tensioner just like the Tatula series? It’s kind of weird because it looks just like the zero adjuster spool tensioner from the Tatula series and yet I can not find any info anywhere online to know for sure if it really is the zero adjuster style. Even Daiwa’s USA Website does not mention anything about a zero adjuster anywhere on the zillion 10.0’s page. By chance is there any one in here who has bought one already and can confirm? Or maybe there is someone in here who has held one and/or knows more about the reel than what’s stated/advertised? I am contemplating on whether to get this reel and I was hoping the zillion 10.0 really does have the zero adjuster tensioner because I have heard some really good reviews/feedback on it.

On a side note...I am also debating on getting some new Shimano reels also. What is Shimano's counterpart spool tech/system that would be analogous to Daiwa's SV spool...? I understand Shimano has MGL or Magnumlite spools and they also have DC or 'digital control' spools/system. From my research and understanding...The MGL is a lighter upgraded aluminum spool whereas the DC is an actual computer that is inside the reel that helps apply braking pressure to eliminate backlashes and maximize casting distance. 1. Is the SV system/tech comparable to Shimano's DC system/tech...? Or are the 2 systems 'different' schools of thought and therefore you would have to just try them both out to see which one you like or prefer more...? 2. Does Shimano 'combine' both the MGL and DC techs together for an even better spool/upgrade...? Which Shimano reel models sport both MGL and DC together...?

Kind of confused...Is the SV spool simply an 'upgraded' spool that has a lighter/stronger aluminum compared to Daiwa's average/lower tier spools...? Or is it a 'combination' of BOTH a lighter/stronger aluminum and an 'upgraded' braking component/system compared to to their traditional Magforce V/Z...?

Debating on getting a Daiwa Tatula. Specifically the new one that just came out...the 2020 Daiwa Tatula SV TW 103. I have mostly older model Daiwa reels and some Shimano. I have no experience what so ever with the SV spools. It seems like Daiwa's SV Spool has much less line capacity than the average non SV reel. Also it seems like its more geared towards lighter lures and finesse applications. With that being said... 1. Even though it seems like the SV spool is geared towards finesse/light applications...Eventually can it handle heavy applications as well like flipping, pitching and frogging with braided lines...? 2. What is the max lure weight a SV spool can handle without completely dumping the whole spool on a very long cast...? With such a shallow spool, I am pretty sure I can dump the whole spool on a very long cast. I like fishing heavy baits, usually 1/2 oz and up (fish swimbaits a lot). I am pretty sure a lure over 1oz or heavier could potentially dump the spool completely on a very long cast. 3. Is the SV spool supposed to make skipping a lot easier...? I have never skipped baits before and have always wanted to start practicing and perfecting the skipping technique. I was hoping the SV reels could make skipping a lot easier. 4. Is the SV spool supposed to make pitching a lot easier...? I am a shallow water technique kind of guy and I love flipping and pitching. Seems like the lighter SV spool would mean a faster initial startup on the cast leading to farther and more efficient pitching/flipping casts. I am hoping there is a die hard Daiwa fanboy in here who is very technical and knows reel technologies to help make my decision a lot easier.

I am looking to get into some finesse flipping and pitching. What kind of rod specs should I be looking for...? Heavy power is pretty much standard for normal flipping and pitching. Do people drop down to a Medium Heavy for finesse flip and pitch...? How about Medium...? Medium light would be out of the question for sure. Fast or Medium Fast/Moderate Fast...? I am planning to use braid to a Fluoro leader for finesse pitch and flip so I am thinking I should be looking at rods with a Medium power with a Moderate Fast/Medium Fast action. What length would be ideal...? 7 foot and less sounds about right.

I LOVE eating Striped Bass and usually don't give a d**n when it comes to mercury and contaminants since I love the taste so much and since its the ONLY freshwater species I like to eat. But lately I have been very concerned about contaminants and mercury levels. Some questions/concerns: 1. Does Striped Bass have high levels of mercury/contaminants...? I would think so since they are usually the #1 predator at the TOP of the food chain in a freshwater lake/reservoir. Also...They are very 'voracious' predators/feeders and will even cannibalize their own young therefore increasing the likely hood of accumulating more contaminants/mercury. 2. Will the larger ones have more contaminants/mercury compared to the smaller ones...? If so...If I limit my keepers to small ones and let go the big ones...I can therefore lessen the amount of mercury/contaminants I eat...right...? 3. Is the level of mercury/contaminants in Striped Bass specific to certain regions/areas...? For example...Would Striped Bass in a reservoir/lake contain more contaminants/mercury compared to Striped Bass that are in the 'open ocean'...? Any other tips/advice/experiences would be appreciated.

Does a 200 sized reel have enough line capacity and large enough gears/torque for general striper fishing...? I like the theory of using a larger reel for increased line capacity and bigger gears for torque but I have small hands and I hate 300-400 sized reels. I am hoping a 200 sized Daiwa Tatula would be fine even for stripers that can reach upwards of 20+ lbs.

I like the braid because of the no stretch. I live in CA so I fish a lot of pressured clear water reservoirs. That usually means staying farther away from weary fish in order to be more stealthy and fishing depths that are deep (20ft+). The braid really helps on hooksets when a fish bites 50ft deep vertically on a jig or 50ft out horizontally on a swimbait. That being said...I did do a couple tests last night and this morning. FG knot [10 weave wraps - 4 half hitch locks alternated - 8 turn half hitch reverse uni lock] with 40lb braid to 6ft. long 15lb mono leader. Fish-n-fool knot [4 wraps] to a 3x Owner treble hook. Treble hook attached to a metal iron fence rod. My only failures were at the fish-n-fool knot or a couple millimeters above my FG knot. FG knot prevailed.

I like fishing Braid to a Leader all the time. With all other variables being equal or being of little concern/doubt...Which knot 'should' break first...? My braid to leader knot or my direct tie bait knot...? I use 'FG' knot 100% of the time for my braid to leader knot and I use 'fish-n-fool' knot 100% of the time for my direct tie bait knot. I have tried many knots over the years but I find these to be the ones that work best for me. Plus...These knots were rated highest/strongest when compared to others out there. I am assuming the FG knot should be stronger and the fish-n-fool should break first...correct...? I really don't like testing knots out of the water, seems kind of pointless.

I think I kinda get what your saying. But I am still confused. With your solution...You would still have to carry around spare spools of line in multiple lb test and line types right...? Not to mention, your solution/method basically entails 'respooling' on the water right...? My main theory or solution that I was trying to get at is...Quickest solution for replacing a backlash reel that 'does not' entail respooling on the water. Hopefully that made sense.

Which is the better backup plan/insurance policy to 'cover all your bases' in the case where you could potentially have a non-operational reel. For example...a very bad backlash that goes deep into the spool and you know its going to take you over an hour just to pick it out. Do you... A. Carry a spare spool (i.e. reel spool not line spool). ...or... B. Carry a spare reel. Some caveats/concerns... 1. What if your the kind of guy who has different model reels from multiple manufacturers...? For example...lets say your typical arsenal for a day of bass fishing is five rod/reel combos and all the reels on these combos are different models from different manufacturers. Do you carry a 'identical' spare spool for all 5 reels in case any one of them goes bad...? If so...that means buying five spare spools. Of which leads me to number 2... 2. The price of five spare spools would probably equate to about or maybe even more than that of the price of one reel. In this case...Wouldn't it just be better to have just one spare reel instead of five spare spools...? But even than, the problem with this is, a spare reel really isn't necessary at all since you can only fish with one reel at a time anyways. So technically...its as easy as 'swapping out' the bad reel for one from any of the other 4 good reels that you are already carrying. But the problem with this and of which leads me to number 3... 3. What if your the kind of guy who is very particular when it comes to line type and size for a specific technique/bait or water clarity/stealthness or type of cover...? No one in their right mind would possibly try and carry a spare spool or spare reel for all the different line types and sizes just so they can have a backup in case any one of them fails. So in this case...would it be better to carry a spare reel that has 'braid' as a main line, that way you have the versatility to either just leave it as straight braid or tie a leader in the line type and size you need for whatever techniques/baits...? The only problem with this is...You need to carry spare spools of line in multiple lb tests or types to make leaders with and you also have to make a braid to leader connection knot, of which is frustrating and sometimes annoying for some people. But than again, the problem with this is, if one of your setups/combos you are carrying already has braid on it and it has not gone bad due to a backlash, than technically you don't need to carry a spare reel with braid on it. So...I am all confused. What do you do...?

Are aftermarket carbon fiber handles 'significantly' lighter than stock aluminum handles...? Or is the weight difference pretty insignificant and you will not gain much in terms of shedding weight for better performance or ergonomics...? If that is the case...are aftermarket carbon fiber handles purely for 'aesthetics' only...? Kind of want to get into the reel modding scene and start changing out or upgrading parts with better ones.

How does the 2019 Levante stack up against the Orochi and Destroyer in regards to blank responsiveness and action...? I am hoping the Levante is 'slower' in action than the Orochi and Destroyer since its at a lower price point. From my experience in bass fishing so far...I have noticed that the lower price point rods are usually made with a lower quality blank like IM6/IM7 or 25-30Ton. These rods usually feel slower in action compared to higher end rods with a higher quality blank that usually feel crisper and faster. I like fishing braid to a leader for a lot of techniques/baits so I am hoping by going with the lower price point levantes that the action will be slower and therefore be able to absorb and deaden the braid so I don't lose fish.

Hopefully there are some people in here who are swimbaiters and also megabass fans. The levante leviathan, orochi leviathan and destroyer onager are rated up to 8oz. Can anyone confirm if any or all of these rods are really capable of that 8oz claim...? Being in CA...I am a big swimbait fan and recently I have been getting into custom glide baits from guys who make them out of their home/garage and that can weigh in at close to 8oz. I need a rod that can throw 8oz 'comfortably'. I am hoping the leviathans or onager can really throw up to 8oz.

Are bass rods supposed to be 'consistent' in action, flex and power when it comes to 'identical' rods of the same model/line...? I know a little bit about how bass rods are made but I was curious as to if manufacturers are (in theory) supposed to make the rods as consistent as possible from one one rod to the next when making a specific model for that year/season. For example...say we are talking about a Phenix Bass Recon Elite 7'1 Medium Heavy Fast. In theory...Should 'all' Phenix Bass Recon Elite 7'1 Medium Heavy Fast rods made for that year/season supposed to feel the same no matter where or who you buy it from...? I know that there are many variables in the manufacturing process for a bass rod so I am inclined to believe that the rods are not supposed to be that 'precise/consistent' throughout the manufacturing process when it comes to identical rods of the same model/line...right...? Therefore...is it common to feel some differences and discrepancies in identical rods of the same model/line...? As an analogy...Everyone knows that not all wood is the 'same' and therefore you will have some differences and discrepancies and have to be cognizant of consistency in what you are buying. Is it the same with bass rods...? In other words...Does Joe Shmoe from California have the same exact feeling 7' heavy fast Powell Max rod as John Smith from Florida...?

I used to think being able to make long distance pitches were a good thing. But obviously there is no point in being able to make a long distance pitch if your not accurate. So...With a high degree of accuracy as being the number 1 variable...How long of a pitch would most agree is optimal and you can therefore call yourself as being pretty proficient...? 20ft...? 25ft...? 30ft...?

I love fishing hollow bodied frogs. Just the other day I was fishing a Jackall Iobee Frog at a local urban pond and had a bass follow it and almost commit to it. But at the last moment it did not commit and turned around. Why did the bass not commit to the bait...? 1. Is it color...? I heard that if a bass follows a bait and than turns back around than it means it could mean its the wrong color. 2. Is it type of bait...? Should I have been using something else instead...? Wakebait...? Popper...? 3. Is it cadence/speed of retrieve...? I usually use a walk the dog cadence when fishing hollow bodied frogs. Should I have been doing something else instead...? Was I going to slow or too fast...? I am all confused and I have been thinking about this scenario constantly and now I am curious as to why a bass does not commit to a bait at the last second and decides to turn back when initially it acted like it was going to commit.

I don't fish these 2 styles of baits and I want to start fishing them. But I am a little confused because from what I see on youtube and TV, a Chatterbait and a Scrounger Head Jig are quite similar in action, style and application. So... 1. What kinds of situations and/or cover would dictate using one over the other...? 2. Which particular cover and/or situation does each excel at best and would therefore be the better choice between the 2...?

From the videos I see of snakehead and peacock bass fishing on youtube...The canals in south florida go right thru people's backyards. I mean...some people's backyards are 'literally' a couple feet (10' or less) from the canal. Some questions... 1. As long as I am courteous and don't do anything stupid (like trespassing)...I should be 'ok' fishing from the bank just like the people I see on youtube...correct...? 2. I am pretty sure most of the homeowners who have a canal in their backyard...Are pretty much used to anglers/fisherman fishing in the canal within a close vicinity/proximity to their property/backyard...Therefore these homeowners are 'ok' and will not disturb or confront an angler...correct...? 3. Any other tips for avoiding any conflicts/arguments or trespassing rules while bank fishing a florida canal that obviously goes thru people's properties/backyards...?

Are peacock bass good eating...? Whats the size limit and amount that you can keep in Florida...? I have tried largemouth bass before but I hated it. The only freshwater fish I like to eat is Striped Bass and Crappie. I heard snakehead is really good too. What's the best way to cook snakeheads and peacock bass...? Do you guys get 'bowfin' fish in Florida...? I heard the bowfin can be mistaken for snakeheads. How do you tell the difference between a bowfin and a snakehead...?

d**n...Seems like I better go with a medium heavy or maybe even a heavy rod than. If that is the case...Can I just use the same tackle that I use for snakeheads; for peacock bass as well...? I see a lot of guys using spinning tackle for peacock bass in Florida. Why is that...? Makes more sense to use baitcasting since the fish fight so much harder than a largemouth bass of the same size. Is baitcasting not as common for peacock bass...? I like using straight braid when fishing topwaters for bass and snakeheads. Is straight braid good for peacock bass as well...? Or should I go braid to a leader...? Which season is best for Peacock Bass...? I take it summer time is the best for peacock bass since they are originally from the Amazon/Brazil where its considered the 'tropics' and the water/weather is pretty much warm all year round.

Need some general guidelines/tips for peacock bass fishing in Florida... 1. The Peacock bass in Florida don't look too big in the videos that I see on Youtube. A lot of the fish seem to be in the 2-3lb range. Seems like occasionally you will get a 4-5lber. Am I ok with a medium power rod...? Or should I upgrade to a medium heavy power rod instead just in case I hook a 4-5lber...? I don't want to be under powered when a big one hits but than again I don't want to be too over powered for the smaller fish. 2. What lures seem to work best for Peacock Bass in Florida...? I see a lot of topwater baits, crankbaits and bucktail jigs being thrown in the videos I see on youtube. Will hollow bodied frogs work for peacock bass as well...? How about glidebaits, swimbaits and jerkbaits...?

I have never owned any Daiwa rods. But I have some general questions... 1. The Daiwa Steez line of rods are more expensive than a GLoomis NRX. With that said...Are the steez line of rods as sensitive and light as a GLoomis NRX JWR...? 2. Some Daiwa rods are labeled as having a 'regular' taper. I have never seen this before in a rod. What's Daiwa's regular taper like...? Seems like it would fall somewhere in-between a moderate and a fast. So...is it comparable to a standard medium/moderate fast...? Is it slightly slower than a medium/moderate fast...? Is it slightly faster than a medium/moderate fast...?