Capt No Fish

I didn't need them but I bought them anyway because they are half price. I know they are not Shimano Curado's or anything like that. But my Lews reels have treated me really good. I have mostly the $100 speed spools, 1 KVD and 1 Tournament MP which is basically the same. I don't notice the geary stuff that people talk about. My reels have been smooth and workhorses. I don't grease them. I keep them clean and just use them. Maybe if you compared these middle of the road reels to the higher end stuff at Shimano they might not be the same but your not paying that price either. To answer you actual question they come USPS. I am on the east coast and they shipped from Columbia, SC according to the tracking and will be here on Tuesday.

Darn you for confirming! I had to go out and buy 2 because it's like BOGO KVD reels! The KVD one I have is excellent for the money. But thank you for doing so. All the specs on the Academy page match the KVD one as well. Oh and I signed up for the 10% for new emails and got more off. No Brainer!

Thanks for the info. I will definitely look to incorporate it in my search.

Ok, I guess that I thought since I heard the lakes are around 30 FT from the video's I was watching I think on the Don Dickson Channel, I assumed that was the rule. I guess the books are probably more detailed. The water on the lake is medium stained. Depends on the day. Some days it's 1 - 1.5 other days 2ish and depending on the time of year with Fall being clearer I suppose. There is another lake Blue Marsh around here and it looks like pea soup which I would call stained. Nockamixon I am assuming is clearer because of all the vegetation to filter it. Where Blue Marsh is more rockier. So I guess the best approach would be a blend of the 2 types.

If you go on you tube look up Don Dickson or Structure Fishing. They are both channels and teaching Bucks Methods. Both the same information Don Dickson is a little more long winded and the guy on Structure fishing is a little more brief. Also The Structure fishing guy has video of Buck's lectures as well. Might save you a few bucks for that bait you always wanted ;)

I can see that and Kind of feel that way about this lake. I suppose these shouldn't be treated as rules and just guidelines. Something to put in the tool box as something to use in trying to figure out where they are.

Well it's that time of year. Looking to continue my learning and we just got through a cold snap where everything was frozen but now it's not. I had heard Jacob Wheeler talk about Buck Perry and reading different post here in the forums saw his name come up. So I started researching him and stumbled on this guy Don Dickson who seems to be a disciple of his and basically teaches his theories. I'm trying to apply the teachings to my lake, Lake Nockamixon in PA and I am trying to figure out what type of lake I fish. I know there are some folks on here that fish Nockamixon as well and maybe they can chime in. I had a different forum post before on this lake asking about specific structures and everyone was kind enough to help out. Below is the link to my lake for those not from around my way. https://webapp.navionics.com/#boating@11&key=azzuF|jajM This should be an easy discussion that will not give away any secrets. I had always thought that this lake was a Highland Reservoir. According to Buck Perry and Don Dickson's teachings a Highland Reservoir has steep sides with no real defined points or sloping structures and is deep. Maybe something like you would find in the Rocky Mountains is what comes to my mind. When I look at this lake it almost fills the Lowland Type 1 criteria. While there are some step bluff banks there are also tapering points and sloping banks as well as plenty of vegetation. But it can be deep 30ft average to 50 ft very quickly in places and toping out about 80ft. To me I would consider as deep, maybe it's not really and I don't know what deep is. Their Lowland Reservoir type 1 definition say no deeper than 30 ft. So which one should I apply to my lake when going through these teachings to apply. I know everything is relative but how relative to I go outside of the parameters or how close should keep. Our terrain in PA is a hilly terrain. It is not very flat and we are not in a mountainous area like the Rockies. In fact the Poconos Mountains near by could be considered as glorified hills. Appreciate your input and the discussion! Shane

Thanks Keith, I have a case open with them but no-one has yet to respond.

Hi all, this may not be the correct forum. I have a Scott Martin Crankbait TCS rod and the 5th eye from the tip broke. I found a local guy who said he might be able to help install the eye. Does anyone know what size eye is on them or what kind? They are very small. Micro eye? I reached out to Okuma customer service but they haven't gotten back to me. Below is a picture of the eye next to a dime. Any help is appreciated!

Ok I found a converting tool that will help. Thanks for putting me on the right track! https://www.pgc.umn.edu/apps/convert/

Thanks Tennessee Boy. According to the support page these are the 2 supported formats. Decimal Degrees: such as 37.7°, -122.2° Degrees, Minutes, Seconds: such as 37°25'19.07"N, 122°05'06.24"W

Hello, I am starting to get fancy now and have learned how to transfer waypoints between my Garmin Unit and Google Earth. The PA DNR has published way points for Lake Nockamixon of fishing structure they have planted. Below is the link. https://www.fishandboat.com/Resource/Habitat/Documents/lakePlans/nockamixon.pdf Where I am struggling, is the numbers that they provide do not seem to match up with a proper longitude and Latitude in GPS format for me to enter. 40*29.543 75*11.795 I am hoping someone here has the experience to guide me through how I can use these numbers to make waypoints. There must be some conversion that I need to do. Any assistance is appreciated!

Everything is available through google!

Thanks Catt, I will take your advise up!

Hey Tom, why 20#. I dunno, I guess because someone who has made a living at fishing said he uses 20# Fluro for Chatterbaits and I figured they know more than me, also that was the way to go and since swim jigs and spinner baits have similar size hooks that I could use the same setup for all of it. . Why mono because it is affordable and I wont care if I trash a reel because of a birds nest. So you are saying I should use 12# for all of these techniques? Chatter Baits, Spinner Baits, Swim Jigs. worm hook/EWG type rigs. Texas Rigs (worms and craws) (casted and flipped), Jigs, Wacky Rigs, Carolina Rigs When looking at line should look more for the diameter? I noticed that different brands have different diameters for the same weight class. So you are saying you like my line choices to bait selections?

Thanks Kid from Canada. If 20lb is too heavy what would you recommend. And is line diameter more important that LB rating? Thanks Columbia Craw. To clarify are you saying to replace the 20# with 17# or both the 15 and 20 with 17? Thanks for your input.

Hi fellow fisherman. I am in my 3rd year of freshwater fishing and I suffer from information overload from youtube and reading, telling me I need this or that. Kind of mad at myself for going out and buying or asking for rods as gifts to get my collection up and now have 6 bait casters and 3 spinning rods. I finally stopped buying 2 of everything for lures because I no longer lose them as soon as I go out. Anyway my purpose for this post is I am trying to simplify so I can focus on trying to find bass. And I want to get my line choices to 3 or 4. Currently I use either 15lb braid or 8lb Yo-Zuri Hybrid on my spinning rods and I think I am fine with that, no changes needed. I use these for Drop shots, Shaky Heads and I tried a paddle tail on it and seems fine. I fish in the SE PA region and took a trip with a local B.A.S.S pro who fished the classic a couple times to try and figure out what I was doing and he used 20# Gamma for Chatter baits. I tried Yo-Zuri 20# for a chatter bait and I liked it, there are little back lashes and it behaves well. So instead of changing lines for what I think are equivalents moving baits with larger hooks would this be fine or is it too much for the spinners and swim jigs. I am planning on using either Big Game or Yo-Zuri Hybrid for my casting gear. I know there is a strong allegiance to Fluro but I don’t want to spend the money on that when I still backlash quite a bit so this is what I would like to use. Take a look at my chart below and let me know if I am on track or I need to Adjust. 20# Chatter Baits, Spinner Baits, Swim Jigs. 15# for worm hook/EWG type rigs. Texas Rigs (worms and craws) (casted and flipped), Jigs, Wacky Rigs, Carolina Rigs 10# for treble hook baits. Top Waters (walking and poppers), crankbaits, rattle traps, jerk baits. 40# Braid for Frogs and Flipping Lilly Pads What buckets or line sizes should I change or rearrange? Is 20# too much? What do you do? Thanks!

I have at the console a Garmin EchoMap 94SV. So it has down and side imaging. The front deck intentions will only be used when the trolling motor is deployed and I am fishing on the front deck. That one is an older Lowrance 7 unit that came with the boat and I moved it up front. That unit has graph and down imaging. I don't care about the unit per say in that I didn't go out and buy the Lowrance for any special features. It was a free repurpose of the unit. It's just what I have. I don't know what I should be having on the front, which is why I was asking if most people only use the 2D or if I should be using the Down since I have it.

Right. I was aware if I used the onboard transducer it would only be 2D and would need to purchase an adapter cable. But is that what most people use upfront is the 2D and I am over thinking I need Down Imaging?

Hello, I have been saving for a new trolling motor and looking to purchase a Minn kota Terrova. There are 2 different models that I can buy. One with the onboard universal 2D Sonar and one with no sonar at all. It's around a $250 difference. Is it worth it to spend the extra money for the onboard sonar or am I better off saving the money and running a transducer down the motor? Today I have a power drive trolling motor and I need to run the transducer wire down the trolling motor because it doesn't have the built in universal sonar. I am still fairly new to the bass fishing world. I don't know what most people do. Do they use the onboard transducer and only fish the front deck in 2D or do most people use down imaging? I plan to use the Lowrance unit I have at this point and for the foreseeable future. I don't plan on purchasing any of the fancy electronics with the live scope or panoptic. I am not going to have multiple units running on the front deck. Besides my wife would kill me if I spent that kind of money. I am a weekend warrior with a crestliner looking to upgrade what I have so I can go out and have an enjoyable experience on the water. Any inputs are greatly appreciated!

I have a had time arguing the Flyers especially has a Highschool and youth hockey coach. I think a old guy like me might do better. I definitely think more time on the water will help. With family obligations I only get out 20 times a year if I am luck. I do need to find more ponds and stuff with fish instead of just fishing on the boat. But the boat is part of my enjoyment.

Thanks for this Incredible information. For whatever reason the way you explained it, it hits home. I do have 2 questions regarding your post. What is "outside structure"? Is that deep ledges or something different? You mentioned going up creek arms. My lake is a highland reservoir that doesn't at least to me seem to have creeks. There are little streams that feed the lake and where they enter are little coves. Would that be the same as a creek arm? It's a deep fishery. Thanks for you input.

Thanks everyone. Logs of good information here. I am thinking that I will take 2 baits, 1 moving and 1 static. I plan to hit each area with the moving bait first and then go to the static bait. Static baits being a Jig, worm, texas rig type of lure. Question is is how long to I go with one before I change? Do I run the moving one through the whole area and then the static one and move on or do I need to spend more time on each? Thanks!

I thought both the upper Delaware above Trenton was all rocky and you needed a jet boat. Same for the Schuykill River. I thought once above boat house row it was extremely shallow. I have a 17.5 ft boat with a prop outboard on it. Is it safe to go to these places? I would love to get out on the upper Delaware, I've seen some pictures of those great small mouths you are talking about. That is how I started. I started with nothing and now have a bunch or combos and a tackle box full of stuff. I mainly watched Fluke Master, Tactical Bassin, Iconelli and Wired to Fish. I got sucked into I need this or that to catch the fish and this or that rod to make the bait work. I have since learned to take that all in and figure out how to apply it to what I have already and stopped buying tackle. I feel fairly confident with how to use the baits and the techniques. I am still trying to perfect my accuracy but the biggest this I am struggling with is how to put all this into action.

Thanks for the replies. I don't want everyone to get hung up on grass part. That was just an example. It could be rip rap or any other area. However I do look for grass areas because I have had the most luck around them. I am fishing mostly Lake Nockamixon and the Tidal Delaware river. I did try the Northeast river once with no luck. I am hoping to try Blue Marsh Lake next year. I don't really have anyone to fish with so I am figuring it out on my own at the moment.