tale

Thanks for all the advice. I think cutting my losses would probably be the best course of action. I've enjoyed playing with the boat and learning, so I think it was a positive experience.

That is really good to know. You said that the hull needs to be supported really well. What type of supports are typically used? Are you talking about the hard supports that they use to support larger boats or sail boats when they dry dock them? What would you suggest I do with the boat? I bought this boat as a project in fall of 2020. It's been fun figuring out how to fix all of the little issues. Like I said before, it runs well. The transom doesn't appear to be rotted. It doesn't move when I push hard on it back and forth. I've got a little under $2500 in the boat. I'm wondering if I can just continue to use it for several years in its current shape? I'm not sure what to expect of a bass boat that has rotted stringers. Am I risking a catastrophic failure? I've seen some plywood that delaminated and fell into the center storage area. I assume that was part of the floor. Then when I open the center floor hatch, I can look to one side and see that the fiberglass isn't completely covering one of the stringer supports. Where I can see wood it is possible for me to pull it apart with my fingers. Thank you for the insight into this project. I'm trying to do my homework before I start something this big. If you have any sites that document a project like this, then I would be interested in reading more. I haven't found a lot how-to videos on youtube. Just several guys that started and never finished.

I've got a 1989 Astroglass 16' bass boat. I can see that there are rotted stringer supports in places. It appears that I can remove the rope around the outside and then unscrew the top half from the bottom half. I know I'll need to take the outboard off and unhook the wiring. I'm curious how big of a job this is going to be to separate the top from the bottom? I don't have a workshop with a winch, so I'm hoping that I can get 4 guys to pick up the top and move it off the bottom so I can repair the stringers. I know this is impossible to know for sure, but do y'all think that will be possible? How much do you think the top of the boat will weigh? Here are some photos of the boat. It's running great now, so this spring the goal is to make it pretty. I'm hoping I can wait until the fall to pull it apart and fix these supports. https://photos.app.goo.gl/k6XJhD5JuS46feFb8 Thanks, Trey

I purchased an old bass boat last year and I've been fixing it up. It had sat for 15 years, so I spent this summer getting it working right mechanically. Now it's running great. I had it out on the water today and I'm noticing that I have to keep left turning pressure on the steering wheel to keep it from turning right when I haven't trimmed it up. This is the time when I'm just planing out and starting to trim up. The strange part is that once I trim it up, it doesn't require any left turning pressure on the wheel. If I keep trimming it up, it actually starts requiring right turning pressure to keep it going straight. I'm not sure what's going on here. Can somebody explain why this is happening? Do I need to adjust the trim tab at the back of the outboard that is right above the propeller? In case it helps with the question, the boat I have is a 1989 Astroglass 16.0 with a 100 HP Mariner 2 stroke.

https://www.cabelas.com/shop/en/raymarine-element-9-hv-hypervision-fish-finder https://www.cabelas.com/shop/en/raymarine-element-7-hv-hypervision-fish-finder

I see that Cabela's and Bass Pro Shop have the Raymarine Element 9 and 7 models on clearance. They have pretty big discounts on them ($450/$300 off respectively). I was planning to get a Garmin 7" model for around $500, but it's got me wondering if I should pick up one of these instead. I don't have any experience with any model of fish finder. I'm a complete newbie. Thoughts?

I'm restoring a 1987 16' Astroglass with a 100 hp 2 stroke Mariner engine. It has been sitting since 2008. I know that before attempting to start engines that have set a long time, it is recommended to shoot a lubricant in each cylinder to help with movement. Is there something similar I should do before trying to move the engine up or down with the power trim? I'm wondering if I should polish the hydraulic piston to prevent oxidation from causing issues.

My latest project is a 1987 Astroglass 16' bass boat. It has a 100 hp 2 stroke Mariner on it. I got it for a song from a neighbor. The catch is that it hasn't been used since 2008. When I started going through the engine, I noticed that all the lines that feed fuel to the carbs had completely deteriorated and fallen out. So, I have cleaned the carbs and replaced all the lines that fell apart between the carbs. Now I have one input port on the fuel pump that used to have a line on it that the oil pump would use to inject the proper amount of oil. The oil injection system was deleted by the previous owner. It looks like there was something connected to the tube (just a the remains of tube under a zip tie), but I'm not sure what that would be since the oil injection was deleted. Should I cap this port or does it need to hook up to something? I figure it isn't needed since I'll have to premix everything.

My problem is that the parts sites have ranges for those years and they don't match the serial number on that tag. I've searched the engine over for any numbers I could find stamped on it and none of them matched either. I looked at the Crowley Marine site that Ski213 posted. It looks like the engine I have, but the serial number ranges don't match up on it either. Should I just ignore the serial number ranges? Is it common in this area to not find a serial number?

I bought an '87 Astroglass bass boat from a neighbor a few months back. It has sat out in a field by his house for about 12 years. He said it ran good when he parked it. I know it is a total gamble, but he sold me the boat, outboard, and trailer for $300, so I bought it. The outboard shows that it is a 100 HP engine, but I can't find any of the typical markings to positively identify it on some of the parts sites online. I've looked at the engine and all I know right now is that it isn't froze up (I manually turned it over after lubing it) and that I need to replace all the fuel lines. The lines between the carbs literally fell apart. I need to identify the motor so I can buy some of these dry rotted parts so I can see if it will run. I'm hoping somebody can give some advice on how to identify which motor I got. Here is a link to a few photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/5oFBwg7DDJBXLhBs8