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Scherbacj

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About Scherbacj

  • Birthday 09/22/1986

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Phoenix, AZ
  • My PB
    Between 10-11 lbs
  • Favorite Bass
    Largemouth & Smallmouth
  • Favorite Lake or River
    Roosevelt Lake cause that’s where I caught my PB. Willow Springs Lake for Trout

Profile Fields

  • About Me
    38yr Old who sells bolts, but I hate nuts.

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Community Answers

  1. Correct, I am keeping it under 5mph based on the manual. Most times I am idling as slow as I can which is usually around 3-3.5MPH. But, as I said before, if I am selecting the target from the history and just hitting create waypoint at my location, speed really shouldn’t matter. I will take a screenshot next time I do it, but I am pretty sure that when I select the target it shows Lat/Long Numbers as well as depth data for where the cursor is, which is why I assumed that is where the waypoint is being placed, not at the current location of the head unit. Even if it was creating it at the current location of the head unit, I wouldn’t think it would be a football field behind me if the target is still on the screen and I am only going 3mph. I have tried driving past the waypoint a fair amount and even then I don’t always find the target again. Maybe I am just stupid and not understanding this, but if the waypoint is placed where I have selected it in the sonar history, the waypoint should be at the target, not the boat. I would love to, but I live in AZ, a lot of times there aren’t specific trees or rocks on shore that I can try to line up with. Also, I am talking about targets that off shore, so a tree/brush pile on top of a hump in the middle of the creek channel, the bank might be far away so using a target on the bank to line up with isn’t always an option.
  2. I am talking about dropping a waypoint of something that I just scanned with my transducer, not something I marked from home. Obviously if I am marking a location from my home I am not expecting it be exact because at that point, it’s like you said, it’s general map data, not sonar data. When I create waypoints from home I am only selecting general areas, points, flats, etc. not a specific piece of structure. What I am talking about is idling over a target, scanning it with the transducer, seeing a piece of structure in the sonar data, selecting it, dropping a waypoint so I can return to it and fish it that same day, but once I turn around and try to pass over it again and fish it, I am not finding the target. Even when trying to turn around, pass over it again and rescan it, confirm its location and get a better look at it, even though it shows I am passing over that waypoint just going the other direction, I have trouble finding that target again. I have done the things others have suggested like going at it from a different angle, trying to pass over it again and create a second waypoint to make it more accurate, etc. but I am rarely able to find that target again even when I drive to it and then beyond the waypoint I just made. I will say most of the time I am doing this it is with down imaging because I know that Side Imaging offsets are greater. Maybe next time I will find the target with down imaging but when returning to it I will pay more attention to the side imaging so that even if I am off by a few feet I should still see it in the side imaging and what side of the boat it’s on. So my questions remains, with a Lowrance HDS Pro unit, if I select a target on the screen and create a waypoint, it creates the waypoint at the target and not the current location of the boat/head unit, correct?
  3. I understand that in concept, but when you select a target on the screen you are selecting a part of that history, when I hit “create waypoint” shouldn’t the waypoint be placed where the cursor is in that history? If that is the case, it shouldn’t matter how fast I was going, or how far away I was when I created the waypoint. If it is creating the waypoint at my current location instead of at the cursor then I can understand the offset, but I don’t see why you would be able to select a point with the cursor and then create a waypoint if it isn’t making the waypoint at that location anyways. so I guess my question is, which way is it? When I have a target on the screen, I select it with the cursor and create a waypoint, is the waypoint being created at the cursor location? Or is it still creating it at the current location of the boat/head unit?
  4. that makes sense, but I can actually put a marker on the target on the screen and create the waypoint at that marker, so even if that spot is behind me and is about to fall off the screen, if I select that point, shouldn’t the waypoint be at that marker and not the current position of the boat? If it is still using the position of the boat when I click save then it doesn’t make sense why you would be able to select the target on the screen and say “create waypoint”. Especially because even after saving the waypoint, the screen still shows the frozen frame of the target and the name of the waypoint until you click to return to the sonar screen. Also, I would love to make a second waypoint and then know my target is in between the two, but I can’t even find the target a second time in order to make the waypoint. It seems like I am going far enough past the waypoint so even if it was a boat length behind me that I should still pass it again, but I’m not seeing it. I think I will just throw out a marker buoy and then probe it with a bottom contact bait until I get a feel for where the waypoint is in relation to the boat. It just doesn’t make sense to me that I can select the target if that isn’t where the waypoint is actually placed.
  5. What strategy do you use to return to/fish spots you find on your down/side imaging? I recently Upgraded to a boat worthy of a fish finder and while I idle/troll along and identify spots I want to fish, I drop a waypoint, but even with the waypoint and the graph saying I’m in the same spot, I don’t see the same structure/targets. I try searching around that area and can’t seem to locate the same brush pile/tree I just saw. I have a Lowrance HDS Pro and I can select the actual target on the screen when creating the waypoint so I don’t think I’m “seeing” it on screen but creating the waypoint too late. I know the tranducer is at the rear of the boat, but even just trying to pass over the area again to confirm where it is won’t work. I have even had my Ghost autopilot to said waypoint and don’t see the same targets I did before. Am I just stupid? How do get back to targets you find while idling?
  6. Has anyone here removed the EFI/Air Filter restrictor plate from their 75 HP Mercury? I’m trying to find a parts diagram so I can see which part to remove and get an idea of how easy it is, but I can’t find much online. The diagrams I can find don’t even show the intake. It’s a 2023 if that matters. Does anyone have a parts diagram that shows the restrictor plate? can anyone comment on the performance difference before/after the mod?
  7. True….but is it really LifePO4? Did they sub out an element for another one that is cheaper but reacts the same? Has anybody ripped into one to confirm that it is what they say it is? Have enough random samples, not hand picked ones for “reviews”, been inspected and tested to verify its correct? All I am saying is it’s pretty rare to have a product come out that is 25% of the average cost and it’s actually what it claims. There are only so many things you can do to lower costs. They might be more efficient and therefore able to make it for less, but even if they can make it for 75% less, why sell it for 75% less? You sell it for less to attract customers, but you don’t have to sell it for 75% less to do that. A 25% difference is enough to get people to come to you instead of other places. “You get what you pay for” and “it’s too good to be true” are actually correct quite often. Yes, some products have a higher value to cost ratio, but those items usually aren’t the bottom dollar ones, they are the mid range who make a good product but don’t get overly fancy or cosmetic. Skepticism of bottom dollar products is usually well earned.
  8. I would be a little weary of that thing catching fire and burning down my boat. While I agree that some of the big names cost is burnt up in marketing and advertising, there are also different levels of quality even for two products that are both made in China. Just like anywhere, there companies in China who make a quality product, and there are companies in China that flow with the buying trends, making products as cheap as they can and cutting every corner they can, and who know they will rename or rebrand or whatever once people catch on to their crap quality. It’s a separate subject, but it really makes me sick that this is the way our world is moving. Companies competing for cheapest price knowing quality doesn’t matter because there’s nothing we can do about it since they are in a different country and will just rebrand. It’s even worse that most of these “innovations” come from other places, get ripped off by China, but Amazon and our politicians are happy to take their “cut” while everyone else gets screwed. Sorry to sound political, it’s really not since both sides and everyone in between do it. Personally, I stay away from this type of crap unless it’s something I will only use once or it’s something like dog toys. But if it’s something that matters, especially that matters to the things I enjoy doing, I won’t let them rob me of my money and my enjoyment when their crap products leave me hanging. Plus, I deal a lot with power tools, and you can barely make a decent 5.0ah Lithium battery for a power tool for $88. There is no way you can get a true Lithium(LifePO4) battery that is properly made and has the proper protections for that little money. Hell, if they could actually make quality cells for that cheap, why make small 12V batteries, they could dominate the EV market by making the first one to cost $15K.
  9. I’m sure they will keep the top selling models and just rename them under the different brands. I literally just upgraded to a Lowrance Ghost from a Motorguide cable steer and had some reservations, but I got it all wired up and tested it and I don’t see it being an issue. The steering response is really responsive, and the pedal feels doesn’t feel much different to me. Granted, I haven’t been a 20 year user of cable steer, but I did get used to how they operate and after my initial “test” with the Ghost, I don’t feel bad. Maybe I’ll scoop up a Tour Pro as well and see if people start paying out the nose for them when they go away!😀
  10. I know that for my Motorguide the way the cable was coiled, both stowed and deployed was important, I just installed a Ghost, does it matter for that? If I have it where it’s not a tight curve at the pedal, then it has a tight coil when it’s deployed, if I have it straightened when deployed, it had a tight coil at the pedal when stowed. I have tried twisting it every which way, and if I leave the cable in the clips on the side of the motor Mount, it always has a tight coil somewhere. But it’s not a cable drive, so does it matter? I just tried it another way, and when deployed it ends up in an “S” shape, but when stowed it’s not bad.
  11. Lowrance suggests a minimum of 1.5” clearance and it has more than that. It might not look like it from the front, but it has had at least 1.5”. If I had to guess without a tape, I would say it’s 2.25” P.S. I’m not a tech guy so I hate to be critical, but a 1,000KB limit on photos is pretty small. I have to crop everything to a much smaller photo in order to make it work.
  12. Is this a problem? I just swapped a cheap Motorguide and installed a Ghost, and the Ghost lines up with the old bolt holes, but it doesn’t sit centered on the keel as recommended as you can see in the photo, when it’s deployed, it sits about 6” off centerline. I have enough room to move it over without it sticking off the side when stowed, might have to angle it a little more, but I would rather not have to drill new holes. Will this screw with the spot lock? Or make the motor less effective? Or is it close enough? I had to crop it to get the file size small enough to post, but hopefully you get the idea. Here is what it looks like when stowed. I would definitely have to angle it over the deck more if I wanted to get perfect, so I couldn’t just slide it back and drill only 2 new holes, I would have to redo all of them.
  13. So I tried to take the old motor off today, and they didn’t use the isolators, it has 1/4” bokts with Nylocks. Unfortunately I didn’t have a wrench because I wasn’t expecting it to have Nylocks, but there are definitely some sort of rubber spacer/washer under 4 bolts further back. The front 2 bolts don’t have the washers, and they weren’t bolts & nuts, just 1/4” sheet metal screws straight into the hull. I think those are that way because it’s impossible to reach that far forward to put a nut on it, or because it’s inside the “box beam” used to create the gunnel/bow at the tip. Do I need the rubber washers? Or should I just bolt it straight to the deck? Why would they only be on 4 out of 6 bolts? I suppose it’s possible they just cut the flange off the isolators, but there definitely wasn’t any rubber “shaft” portion going through the deck. Is that typical for a Motorguide X3? I know Motorguide had a different system at some point.
  14. I have a Lowe Stinger 178 which is an Aluminum hull, I am going to be swapping out my trolling motor and installing a Ghost which has a lot more thrust and I am wondering if I should use some type of deck reinforcement like the one in the link below, or one I built myself. I currently have a Motorguide X3 70LB and it was installed with the rubber isolator bolts which I know are a nightmare so at the very least I am going to get rid of those and use a large & thick washer with a locknut. I was thinking of using Unistrut Square washers for the backing washer because they are 1 1/2” square and 1/4” thick which is about as big/thick you can get for a 1/4” bolt size. But it seems to me the .125” thick Aluminum of the hull/deck could be fairly easy to warp or damage with a more powerful motor so I was wondering if I should use something more than the big washers? I have also seen guys use Toggler style toggle anchors which I know are pretty strong and possibly easier to install. I work for a fastener supplier so when it comes to hardware, I have easy access to just about everything fastener related. This is the kind of plate I found( https://www.trollingmotors.net/products/minn-kota-boat-deck-reinforcement-kit-mka-58 ) but if it attaches to the top of the deck, I don’t see it being a ton of help since the weak link would still be the upward forces pulling on the Aluminum deck. Would the large washers on the under side of the deck be the better option? Or I could use 2 pieces of 1/4”Thk Flat Bar drilled for the mounting pattern of the motor Mount so it is one continuous piece running the length of the motor mount, but I could see that being a little difficult to install and possibly overkill.
  15. Ill have to look at mine, but I don’t recall having another drain further up the transom aside from the splash pan drains. I do have 2 ports on the starboard side, I know one is bilge pump outlet, maybe the other is the live well overflow?
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