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Trolling Motor 3 & 4 Speeds Sometimes Cutout

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I have a MK Edge and, recently, speeds 3 & 4 will stop working every one in a while all together.  They usually come back on, but I'm left with having speeds 1, 2, and 5 when they go out.  I noticed in the foot pedal that some of the wires appear to be overheating.  I put electrical tape over the wires that were partially damaged.  It's still under warranty but I probably won't take it in until the season is over to get fixed.  I have two batteries running this motor (hooked up in parallel). 

 

Does anyone know what this could possibly be? And do you think the double amperage has any affect on overloading the wiring of the trolling motor?

Those wires that are over heating are doing so because they have a bad connection, tape is not doing anything for you.  You must repair the connection.   If they are wires going into the speed switch, the switch is probably bad, infact it's probably melting inside and that's the reason you are loosing those speeds.

 

By the way, the bad connect is going to be at the end the wires are over heating. 

 

The more you run it, the more damage you are doing, and it can actually catch on fire so, if you want to keep on running it, I hope you keep a fire extinguisher handy. 

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Those wires that are over heating are doing so because they have a bad connection, tape is not doing anything for you.  You must repair the connection.   If they are wires going into the speed switch, the switch is probably bad, infact it's probably melting inside and that's the reason you are loosing those speeds.

 

By the way, the bad connect is going to be at the end the wires are over heating. 

 

The more you run it, the more damage you are doing, and it can actually catch on fire so, if you want to keep on running it, I hope you keep a fire extinguisher handy. 

Ha.  Extinguisher is on board.  So this was a bad solder at the factory or what?  I did notice the end of the yellow cord had some black to it.  It's not a solder point though.  The wire has a hookup adapter to it.  So I guess I just need to cut this off and hookup to a new connector.  

 

The tape wasn't to fix it... The tape was to keep the other wires from melting more from the hot wire.  So it does have some purpose

It's not a solder joint, it a mechanical joint of some type, crimped, rivited or contact point in the switch.  If it's under warrenty, I would not screw around with it, or you could void your warrenty.   I'm not sure what you are calling a "hookup adapter".  If it's a connection where two or more wires connect, it's probably a crimped connector or a crimp with a spot weld, either way, if that's what it is, the mechanical contact point is bad.  In high current applications where they are using minimum size wire and max current, they may not solder the connections because if heat develops, like what you seem to be getting now, the solder will melt away and make the connection even worse.

 

However like I always say, I'm not going to try and tell another person what they can and can't do with their stuff, because no one is going to tell me what I can and can't do with mine.  If you think you can fix it and don't mind loosing the warrenty, go for.   If you are comfortable with a possilbe fire hazard while running it, wait until you feel the time is right or it quits all together.

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It's not a solder joint, it a mechanical joint of some type, crimped, rivited or contact point in the switch. If it's under warrenty, I would not screw around with it, or you could void your warrenty. I'm not sure what you are calling a "hookup adapter". If it's a connection where two or more wires connect, it's probably a crimped connector or a crimp with a spot weld, either way, if that's what it is, the mechanical contact point is bad. In high current applications where they are using minimum size wire and max current, they may not solder the connections because if heat develops, like what you seem to be getting now, the solder will melt away and make the connection even worse.

However like I always say, I'm not going to try and tell another person what they can and can't do with their stuff, because no one is going to tell me what I can and can't do with mine. If you think you can fix it and don't mind loosing the warrenty, go for. If you are comfortable with a possilbe fire hazard while running it, wait until you feel the time is right or it quits all together.

Yeah like I said in my post its not a solder point but thanks for the info. I've heard that they do solder some points in the head though and I was wondering if it could be a separate issue from the wiring. I'm just trying to get some info on what the possible causes are before i make a decision. If it doesnt require immediate attention then it'll have to wait until after tournament season. Not trying to say I'm not going to take your advice buddy. This is why we're on here to talk and get better knowledge and share prior experiences. I wish you the best of luck.

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if not the wires it could be the speed controller...I just replaced that part located in the head on my transom MK...speeds 1 & 2 would intermittently work or not work when it acted up, that was a cheap part like 15 bucks or so...it was easy to install & fixed my issues...but with the foot pedal TM's it appears that the 5 speed controller switch is in the pedal and a $20 dollar something part..

Awesome. Great post. Ill look into this. Might buy one for a backup, install it for the rest of the year, take it back off, install the old one and take it for repair after season. I don't have time to wait two weeks for my trolling motor guys to even look at it. Thanks again bud.

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