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CRANKSTER

Depthfinder Install Tips

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Hey everybody, I picked up a Lowrance Elite 4x DSI the other day to put on the bow of my tin boat.  Went to install it today (until the rain came in).  Went and bought an inline fuse block with a 3A fuse to install after the inline noise filter (per the instructions). I want to extend the wires about 10-12" past the inline noise filter. The Install guide says it recommends 18 gauge wire if extensions are needed so I guess that's what I'll use.  Does anybody have any tips I should keep in mind while doing this install?  Will it be better to crimp the connections for the extensions/fuse block or solder the connections?  It will probably be ran to a small 12V, 8AH (kayak style) battery inside of one of my front rope compartments due to me needing to possibly remove it all soon to upgrade rigs.  I'm not hardly electrically skilled at all lol.  Any and all help is appreciated in advance.  BTW the included power wires are TINY!!  Does anybody know what size they are?

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I have hooked up a ton of electronics from stereos, amps, speakers, lights, graphs, etc. etc. etc. I have used every method from twisting the wires, to using wire nuts, to using butt splices. I think the key to ensuring a good connection, and I use this no matter what I do, is to use electrical tape to keep the wires from slipping. I am a firm believer that a little bit of electrical tape goes a long way.

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The best splice is SOLDER, the waterproof the splice with liquid tape and electrical heat shrink tubing. The best wire to extend the power cord is marine grade tinned.

Put the fuse at the battery, not at the splice between the power cord and extension wire.

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The best splice is SOLDER, the waterproof the splice with liquid tape and electrical heat shrink tubing. The best wire to extend the power cord is marine grade tinned.

Put the fuse at the battery, not at the splice between the power cord and extension wire.

Respectfully Wayne, I disagree. As an automotive technician that had to go through countless hours of GM electrical training I have been taught different. GM's issue with solder was the inconsistencies, wether it be the person doing the repair or the quality of product used. The other issue is that the solder makes the wire brittle and over time with vibration can break. The method they wanted us to use was a crimp connector that had the heat shrink tubing as a part of it. Also they had some fancy crimping pliers that would not release until proper clamping force was applied to the connector. This created a consistant repair that once the heat shrink tubng was sealed it was good for life. 

 

I am not saying that soldering is a bad repair as long as the person doing it does it right. This is just what I was taught.

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After hours of tracing wires in the boat today and some help from another guy, it turns out that my boat came with a pre-installed wiring harness that is already fused for a depthfinder up front.  There's 2 crimped exposed wires in the pic that are up on the front deck which sits in front of a small storage space.  I plan to pull the wires into the storage space and connect the power inside there.  That's where the remaining transducer wires will be bundled as well, for a cleaner install.  Wayne, do you think it will be ok to install the noise filter in there?  Would rather not splice it into the rear of the boat near the fuse block. 

 

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