Super User flechero Posted February 4, 2006 Super User Share Posted February 4, 2006 I know a few of you also visit the .org site... I posted there also because I can get different responses here and there. I am working on a MH casting rod, layed out my guides, static tested, adjusted, re-checked... and am very happy with the placement. What I'm having trouble with is choosing a bumper guide. I read over and over about using a low framed bumper. I believe I have found "too low" in a BLAG #7. It sits almost flat on the blank. I then tried a #8 BLAG but it sits really high in comparison. (the #7 sits on the blank just like a #6) Since I work most lures and fight most fish from my left side (and I reel with my right) the BLAG #7 (on the right side) will not keep the line off the blank when fighting a fish. But the #8 just looks real high. I took an extra #7 and tried to "modify" it's height profile but can't seem to get enough height without shortening the foot too much. The #8 will get the job done from the right side, but... Have I read too much into the "low " bumper guide theory? Or should I just have the bumper opposite the reel handle? What do you guys use for bumpers? Thanks for your suggestions! Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DavidGreen Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 Keith, Since I work most lures and fight most fish from my left side (and I reel with my right) the BLAG #7 (on the right side) will not keep the line off the blank when fighting a fish. You could set the rig up both ways and see which way is best suited for your style of fishing, before the finished rod is produced. (hence the words custom rod). Have I read too much into the "low " bumper guide theory? Or should I just have the bumper opposite the reel handle? What do you guys use for bumpers? If I am using a #6 guide out to the tip from the stripper then I will use a #7 as the bumper. If I am using #5's out to the tip then my bumper is a #6. All I use are BLG's. The only time I use a heavier guide is on X-Heavy flippin blanks. As far as the placement of the bumper, I will set it on the right if I have a right hand reel, and on the left for the left hand reel. Reason is when laying the rod on the deck, most anglers lay the rig handle up this keeps the bumper from making contact with the deck. Tight Wraps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super User flechero Posted February 4, 2006 Author Super User Share Posted February 4, 2006 Thanks, ReelMech... while reading your post I had the thought of what's in paragraph 2. I believe it would have worked perfectly fine if the #7 were placed on the left side. But since my reel handles are on the right, I kind of wanted to keep it on that side for the same reason you mentioned. Ok, I started to type this and then started fooling with it again. I believe I figured out the trouble and also fixed it. The reason I had contact is that this is a +T handle rod and the butt guide is a couple inches further up the blank (for handle section clearance) than if it weren't. (resulting in more flex under load at the bumper point and allowing line contact) I mocked up the last 3 guides as if it weren't a +T and it clears fine. So I made another adjustment to the #7 and it looks like it will work out fine. Thanks again! Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DavidGreen Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 See there how you are, leaving out the most important part of the question. ;D :-? Do you still take the distance from the 0 axis guide to the first 180° guide and place the bumper in the middle?. I have a IFS 7'6" Rainshadow X-Heavy one peice that I get to wrap some day, but have never tried to spiral a +T blank, sounds like a whole different ball of wax. Tight Wraps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super User flechero Posted February 5, 2006 Author Super User Share Posted February 5, 2006 Well, I didn't mislead intentionally! If I had thought of that, I wouldn't need to ask what I did wrong! ...lol ;D As far as I can tell, the only real difference in a +T (now that I have done one) is if you need handle clearance, your butt guide (and bumper) may be forward of where you want/need it to be. If that's the case, as it was for me, you'll need a higher framed bumper since you'll get more flex in the bumper area. Yes, the bumper is still in (exact) middle of the first two guides. The only slight change I made was actually a suggestion of Tom Kirkman, he once wrote that sometimes you'll need to set the bumper +/- 10 degrees (from 90) for optimum 6 o'clock contact. That is all I had to do once I raised the profile of the #7 BLAG... I needed about 10 degrees extra towards the 2nd guide. Need a +T handled blank to practice on? I have a few more All Stars in the garage. All of them are 6' 10", I have 6 and 7 powers left. (12-20, 3/8-3/4 and 12-25, 1/2-1 1/2) With all the help you have given me, I probably owe you a blank by now! If I could only quit my job and do this kind of thing full time... -keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DavidGreen Posted February 5, 2006 Share Posted February 5, 2006 Keith, Yes, the bumper is still in (exact) middle of the first two guides. The only slight change I made was actually a suggestion of Tom Kirkman, he once wrote that sometimes you'll need to set the bumper +/- 10 degrees (from 90) for optimum 6 o'clock contact. That is all I had to do once I raised the profile of the #7 BLAG... I needed about 10 degrees extra towards the 2nd guide. Yeah I have seen that in some of my static setups that the bumper had to have a slight offset from 90° to work well. Need a +T handled blank to practice on?With all the help you have given me, I probably owe you a blank by now! It would cost to much to get it down here, what I need to do is get up there and have a look see. But the reel table has been very busy (thanks to all here) and I don't see any free time for awhile. No sir you don't owe ME anything just pay it forward. If I could only quit my job and do this kind of thing full time... That is a lot of builders dream..... Tight Wraps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super User flechero Posted February 5, 2006 Author Super User Share Posted February 5, 2006 No sir you don't owe ME anything just pay it forward. Doing my best... remember the swimbait blanks? only one is for me. If I had any idea how much fun this was and what great & helpful people builders are... I would have taken this up about 15 years ago! Class acts, every one of you! -keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DavidGreen Posted February 11, 2006 Share Posted February 11, 2006 flechero, I contacted my distributor (Bingham Ent.) yesterday and ordered some of Andy's Laguna Burl. ;D Going to be building a 6'6" medhvy fast St.Croix SC3 that's just hanging on my wall. : Building it spiral wrapped, split gripped, and exposed seat w/trimmed threads when I get to working the grip I'll post some picks here. It been since before christmas since I have built a rod, can't wait. 8-) Tight Wraps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super User flechero Posted February 13, 2006 Author Super User Share Posted February 13, 2006 Sounds like you are getting caught up on the bench! I was hoping to have some more pics for you too but I was out of town all weekend. I think you will like Andy's cork a lot, it is so much nicer than the other burl I had and it's a lot more uniform through out. I got some of the burnt burl with my last order, it's a really nice chocolate brown after turning and sanding. I used it for trim rings in mine but my friend (I'm paying forward) chose to use mostly burnt with laguna trim rings. Very sharp!! I'll get a pic of the 2 together soon, so you can see both before you glue yours up. I may go to the dark on future rods, because it looks great and won't look dirty after use. I got home this evening and mixed up a batch of threadmaster... I have 3 casting rods almost finished - just need to apply threadmaster, recheck balance and glue on butt ring. All 3 are split grip, cut down reel seats and no foregrips. I can't wait! And the bonus of all is that I got my Dr.'s clearance this week to start using baitcasters again!!!!! I'm over 2 months ahead of schedule on rehab!! He did request that I start off with a light or med power rod for the first couple trips out, to see how it feels. (and now you see why I'm hurrying to get my new rods built) If only the wind would let us on the lake! > I have 2 or 3 more "practice rods" to build before I get to my SCV blank... I decided that I'm going to replace all my rods this year with my own builds. That darned monkey, he gets you one way or the other, at least he lets me pick the colors ...lol ;D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DavidGreen Posted February 13, 2006 Share Posted February 13, 2006 Sounds like you are getting caught up on the bench! I was hoping to have some more pics for you too but I was out of town all weekend Yeah where's the pictures??? LOL I got home this evening and mixed up a batch of threadmaster... I have 3 casting rods almost finished - just need to apply threadmaster, recheck balance and glue on butt ring. Sounds like you have them lined up and ready to hit the water with them soon. I think you will like Andy's cork a lot, it is so much nicer than the other burl I had and it's a lot more uniform through out. I got some of the burnt burl with my last order, it's a really nice chocolate brown after turning and sanding. I ordered the Laguna burl because it reminded me of a good natural cork. I had planned on using it and either the German Brown burl I have or the Red burl as trims. As you know I normally use the German Brown as the main color and I wanted to go lighter on the main color. the bonus of all is that I got my Dr.'s clearance this week to start using baitcasters again!!!!! I'm over 2 months ahead of schedule on rehab!! He did request that I start off with a light or med power rod for the first couple trips out, to see how it feels. (and now you see why I'm hurrying to get my new rods built) If only the wind would let us on the lake! Now that's progress, just don't push it to hard and have a medical setback. I have 2 or 3 more "practice rods" to build before I get to my SCV blank... I decided that I'm going to replace all my rods this year with my own builds. That darned monkey, he gets you one way or the other, at least he lets me pick the colors ...lol Yup your just like I was. When I started back in the early 90's, I built 40 rods before I ever built one for anyone else. Everyone I knew told me that I was hooked. Once the "monkey" gets hold he don't let go........ Tight Wraps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super User flechero Posted February 13, 2006 Author Super User Share Posted February 13, 2006 I'll have some pictures as soon as I get the finish on the rods. (and as soon as I figure out how to compress the pics... my camera is set on "high quality" so the files are too big to post here... I need to find the book so I can reset it for normal.) Got one done last night, will do one tonight, so by wed or thurs I should have pics. Do you use a brush or spatula for your thread finish? I have been using brush since I don't have a spatula. Using a 1/4" artists 'shading' brush... almost as stiff as a spatula but the tip 1/32 is flexible. Seems to work ok but I doubt it's the right tool for the job. Also, do you have some sort of hand rest? I have trouble keeping the hand steady for long periods of time. I'll be going along great and then have a twitch or shake, every few minutes. ...lol I'm going to make something tonight before I get started... even if it's just a board bracketed to the right height. -keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DavidGreen Posted February 13, 2006 Share Posted February 13, 2006 flechero, I'll have some pictures as soon as I get the finish on the rods. (and as soon as I figure out how to compress the pics... my camera is set on "high quality" so the files are too big to post here... I need to find the book so I can reset it for normal.) Yup my camera is a 4MP and puts out an 11meg image, it has the ability to drop the image value to 3.5 and lower, but I use the image as is and re-work them in my Paint Shop Pro. Do you use a brush or spatula for your thread finish? I have been using brush since I don't have a spatula. Using a 1/4" artists 'shading' brush... almost as stiff as a spatula but the tip 1/32 is flexible. Seems to work ok but I doubt it's the right tool for the job. I have been using the FlexCoat 1/4" brushes since I started building, then got a couple of spatula's and tried them, didn't like the result so I went back to my brushes, they are cheap and I buy them in 100 count quantities. I like them because I can trim them to the shape I want. Also, do you have some sort of hand rest? I have trouble keeping the hand steady for long periods of time. I'll be going along great and then have a twitch or shake, every few minutes. ...lol I'm going to make something tonight before I get started... even if it's just a board bracketed to the right height. I started to built a tool rest for my power wrapper, but never got it finished. I have the same problem you do, I'll be going along real nice and all of a sudden a nervous jerk will come along and it is clean up time. But yes many on the dot-org board have been using tool rest when applying finish. Tight Wraps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super User flechero Posted February 13, 2006 Author Super User Share Posted February 13, 2006 Back to your 3C66MHF, how long has it been suffering on the wall? (that is one of the blanks I want to build) Glad to hear that you are ready to build again! Are you going to marble the epoxy or do any decorative wrapping? Have you picked thread colors for the guide wraps? Does Bingham sell retail? I know that Andy is closed until after the rod builder's show. I think I'm going to get a mixed 100 ct bag (laguna and burnt) this time... no sense in paying shipping each time I make a handle. ...lol I'll try to take a pic tonight with my phone... seems a lot faster/easier than reading the manual to my wife's camera! ;D If it works, I'll snap a few of the rods in progress so you can see the split grips with Andy's cork. -keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DavidGreen Posted February 13, 2006 Share Posted February 13, 2006 flechero, Back to your 3C66MHF, how long has it been suffering on the wall? (that is one of the blanks I want to build) Glad to hear that you are ready to build again! Are you going to marble the epoxy or do any decorative wrapping? Have you picked thread colors for the guide wraps? Actually I have a 3C66MHF and a 3C66HF on the wall, it's been there since the first of last summer. I am always ready to build, just can't do it when the reel table is busy (one man shop and all). All of the rods I build have the marbling, I don't have the patience for thread wraps anymore, that and it makes each rod unique. I usually wait until I have all of the components then I will start thinking about colors. Does Bingham sell retail? I know that Andy is closed until after the rod builder's show. I think I'm going to get a mixed 100 ct bag (laguna and burnt) this time... no sense in paying shipping each time I make a handle. ...lol You know I have been doing business with her for 15 years now and I can't say for sure. I have always done wholesale with her. Yeah when I order my burl I don't order anything less than 100ct orders, except for Andy's burl I only ordered 40 rings, but they are the 1/2x1-1/4 rings. I'm hoping Karen gets her Fuji order soon that is what is holding up the rod had to order 3 doz. BLG 5.5's Tight Wraps! 8-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super User flechero Posted February 14, 2006 Author Super User Share Posted February 14, 2006 Well, you have 2 of the blanks that are on my list! You must have good taste! I'll have to live vicariously through you until I save some more allowance for the good blanks! ..lol I wish I had an inventory at the house... but then I'd be building and not fishing. ...lol I can really simpathize with waiting on guides... I just got 2 guides in last week that were backordered since Christmas! I understand about the patience for decorative wraps... some days I still have trouble with guide wraps! Speaking of which, I found a fuzz in 2 of my wraps that comes through the finish... can I trim it off with a razor or sand it off and just add a light second coat to it? I wondered if it would blend like it was never there or if the spot would haze? I got to put finish on the new swimbait rod last night! I struggled with colors since it's a deep, emerald green blank w/ glossy finish... ended up wrapping about 8" of blank with various colors and then wet some of the regular thread to simulate not using CP on some to get different effects. I ended up using dark green (regular nylon) with metallic silver trim and not using any CP... it looks really good on that deep green gloss blank. (excepting to the 2 fuzzes that came through) I tried some pics with the camera phone but they look like black & whites... the phone doesn't get color or light worth a darn. My buddy will be over tomorrow night and he's pretty good with the techie stuff, so I'll snap some pics with the real camera and have him trim them down to file size so I can post. -keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DavidGreen Posted February 14, 2006 Share Posted February 14, 2006 flechero, I found a fuzz in 2 of my wraps that comes through the finish... can I trim it off with a razor or sand it off and just add a light second coat to it? I wondered if it would blend like it was never there or if the spot would haze? yeah you can block sand (or use a fingernail file) them down flush or trim the flush with a razor blade, then re-coat it should turn glossy. Usually do this with-in 24hrs of the first coat..... Tight Wraps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super User flechero Posted February 14, 2006 Author Super User Share Posted February 14, 2006 Great! I'll put that on tonight's to-do list. Thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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