i'm building my wife a new rod w/some "bling" but, i'm having trouble w/what i think the correct guide placement should be.

i use the static guide placement article on rodbuilding.org to space guides & this is the first time that i've really questioned it.

the rod is a 6'6" med w/fast tip.       to really align line w/rod curve, it places first 4 guides much closer to tip than any i've done before.

i'm using 8 guides & a tip - the fourth guide is only 15 inches away from tip.

i'm using spiral wrap, & line seems to run well, but, since most of the action is in the tip, it takes 4 guides where i would usually only use 3.  

i've got it ready to coat, but, really seek advice before i put epoxy on & then have to take it off because i've done it wrong.

is this common w/rods w/fast tip, or, have i done it wrong????????

thanks

ronnie

justtrying,

Place the blank back into your jig and retest. I would use the Equal Distance style setup to start with and test from there for proper placement. If you have done a 6'6" med fast before use that setup as a starting point and test for any differences in blanks. No two blanks flex exactly the same....

Here is a snippet of the Equal Distance Guide Spacing chart from Rich Forhan. The number 1 is the first guide from the tip. The spacing is in between each guide.

6'6" casting..

#1=5" - #2=6" - #3=7" - #4=7" - #5=7" - #6=6" - #7=6" - #8=6"

(#1 guide is set at 5" from tip then #2 is set at 6" from #1 etc...)

The bumper is the #7 guide. Remember this is only a starting point placement re-do your static test and see if anything needs changed.

Hope this helps....

Tight Wraps......

david,

your suggestion is dead on as to what i did in the beginning.  however, this particular rod has most of it's flex in the top 1/3 of the rod, so, when i spaced them as you suggested ...then, put pressure on them, the 2nd & 3rd eye would pull completely out of the rubber bands i had supporting them!

the only way i could get them to follow any pressure contour was by placing the eyes:1= 4" - 2=3" - 3=4" - 4=4" - 5=7" - 6=8" - 7=8" - 8=8"

that's the only way i could get them to follow the curvature of the rod ...on all the others i've done,  the guide spacing you show has worked fine, but, this rod??????

????if it were yours, would you just follow the equal distance guide, & ignore the pressure points, or, would you leave them close together???  --- but, hey, it's gonna have a lot of sparkle...so, who cares how it Works? LOL  Wheeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Ronnie,

In the interest of function first with a little weight given to symetry (sp?) I think the #2=3" will catch the eye and "look" wrong. (even if it is right) With that in mind, I would start by moving to: 1=3.5", 2=3.5" or 1=3.75, 2=3.75 and retest. Sounds like the 7" mark is a place it likes to hinge. They look funny if any of the spacing gets smaller than a previous spacing. So I always try to space with an increased gap but am ok with 1 or 2 equal gaps near the tip. I don't like to go under 4" but have done so out of neccessity.

Also, be mindful of the line angle when you static, to steep of an angle can make you think the guides need to be tightened up. Think about how you fight a fish and try those angles...

I wouldn't be worried if you need one extra guide than you are used to, I've had a few rods need one more than I thought they would, and a couple ended up needing one less. (that's why we have to test every rod- none are the exact same)

Let us know what you end up with.

Keith

justtrying,

From what I'm gathering here is that you are using your main line (coming from the reel) to put the tension on the blank when you are static testing. I want you to try something.

You have your line running through the guides, take and make a loop in the end. Now hang a 1/4 or 1/2 oz weight from the main line (i use a 1/4oz weight attached to a snap swivel), this will give your line the curvature flow you need to see.

Next take a length (about 3') of heavy duty line and a 16oz bottle with cap, fill the bottle to about full (with water) and tie the line to the neck of the bottle, on the other end tie a snap swivel (or some kind of hook) and when you place your setup in your jig, hang just enough of the main line from the tip with the weight to keep the line flowing through the guides.

Now take the line tied to the bottle of water and snap swivel or hook, clip the swivel to the tip top (make sure your tip top is secured) and let it hang, this allows the line to flow through the guides and the bottle weight bend the rod for you.

I think what you are doing is anchoring your main line from the reel and cranking down on it and it is shifting the guides from to much pressure (the guides are pulling the rod into it's arch).

What you want to accomplish here is get a look at the line flowing through the guides but you have to put the bend on the blank using a weight hanging from the tip.

I hope this makes sense it's early and I haven't had any coffee yet. If you need I'll try and post a pick of my setup later.....

I will also look up my latest 6'8" med xfast layout for spiral spacing

Tight Wraps!!!!  

In keeping with ReelMech's theme, I also only use a sinker on the mainline... I do the rod bending with a line attached to the tiptop or by pulling with my fingers on the tiptop.  This way also keeps you from pulling (or just moving) guides through the tape when testing in the heavy range of the rod.