Hi,

I'm in the process of ordering parts from Mudhole.

I'm going to make a couple of casting rods.  One for my Dad which needs to be a 2 piece so it'll fit in the trunk of the Buick, and one for one of my sons which will be a one piece.

For the 2 piece, I can't see where the connection between the 2 pieces is defined on the mudhole site or st. croix catalog.  Is this something I need to plan for and buy connector parts for, or will the blank come with the connection pre-installed?   Also, does this mean the whole 'spine' question a moot point for the 2 piece??

From all I've read here and a couple of other sites people have pointed me to, I have a fairly good idea about the basics, and guess I just have to get to the task at hand to learn more or find out what I don't know.

For the rod drying motor, what RPM should I get (they seem to go from 4 to 33)?   Also, should I use the same speed for finishing or just turn it by hand when applying the epoxy and just use the motor for drying?   Should I get a speed in the middle to do both application and drying, or will it be non-optimal for both?

Thank you for all of the help here.

Hi Theresamarie,

I am a novice rod builder but I have built a couple of 2 piece rods.  They were ready to put together as purchased.  I did wrap the female ends to give it some strength.

I use a 6 RPM motor to apply and dry my finish.  It seems to work for me.  I am sure some of the more accomplished builders here can/will help answer your questions.  I purchased my drying motor from Cabelas.  I think it was around $50.

Where are you on Champlain?  If the weather cooperates I am going to fish in the TI area tomorrow afternoon.  Fall fishing can be great!

Have fun with the rod building!

Hi Theresamarie,

I am a novice rod builder but I have built a couple of 2 piece rods.  They were ready to put together as purchased.  I did wrap the female ends to give it some strength.

Thanks Vtbassin, i was hoping it was not going to be any more complicated.

I use a 6 RPM motor to apply and dry my finish.  It seems to work for me.  I am sure some of the more accomplished builders here can/will help answer your questions.  I purchased my drying motor from Cabelas.  I think it was around $50.

Thanks, it was what I was thinking but wasn't sure.  Sometimes the more you look around at all of the options, the more unclear it becomes.

Where are you on Champlain?  If the weather cooperates I am going to fish in the TI area tomorrow afternoon.  Fall fishing can be great!    

We're in the Burlington area.  But we tend to fish both mallets bay area and north to the border.  We haven't done much south of shelburne bay.  When you say TI, are you referring to the ticonderoga area?    Where and what are you fishing for?  We're new to boating on the lake this year so we haven't found out all of the places, in fact we found some summer spots but as soon as it started to cool off, those dried up and we've been searching again.   We've mostly found largemouth and pike on the lake, a few smallies here and there.  But I think we've not really figured out how to find smallmouths yet.

We'll not be out tomorrow afternoon as Chris (other half) works in Newport right now (GC) and doesn't get home until almost 8pm every night (dark).  But we'll surely be out all weeekend.

Theresamarie1,

Is this something I need to plan for and buy connector parts for, or will the blank come with the connection pre-installed?   Also, does this mean the whole 'spine' question a moot point for the 2 piece??

The tip section fits into the butt section called a ferrule. This section needs to be wrapped to protect it from splitting. The reinforcement wrap needs to be as close to the edge of the ferrule as you can get it. Get that wrap snug and up as close to the ferrule's edge as possible. Just adding finish to that area won't do the job. Wrap more than a half inch or so and you're just wasting thread.  

As for the spine, I spine every blank even 2 piece blanks. Some say that the spine isn't important and just use the straightest axis, but this is hard to figure out with a 2 piece blank. I would spine both sections of the blank, wrap the ferrule, and make sure to add some kind of alignment marks.

For the rod drying motor, what RPM should I get (they seem to go from 4 to 33)?   Also, should I use the same speed for finishing or just turn it by hand when applying the epoxy and just use the motor for drying?

When I first started out I used the FLEX COAT Hand Rod Wrapper..HW1 for my wrapping and then shifted the rod over to a  GM18....FLEX COAT 18 RPM Finishing Motor to apply my finish, then over to a GM6......FLEX COAT 6 RPM Finishing Motor for the 8 hr. cure... Now I have an American Tackle power wrapper that I wrap and apply my finish on. The wrapping motor is high speed up to (4000 rpm), and finishing motor is 11 rpm. Then I move the rod to my Flex Coat 6 rpm motors in my 8' drying box.

Theresamarie1,

I would like to make a recommendation that you take a look at this The Birth Of A Custom Fishing Rod it will show you some of the steps your going to run into...

Tight Wraps!!!

Theresamarie1,

I would like to make a recommendation that you take a look at this The Birth Of A Custom Fishing Rod it will show you some of the steps your going to run into...

Tight Wraps!!!

David, thank you for the help!    You do some great work and are most generous with your help here given that this is your trade.

Nothing I've seen so far worries me much, other than just the practice, and patience, that it'll take to make it look good. I'm sure my first attempts will be far from perfect, so I'll be doing some redo's.  I'm no stranger to tools and fine work as I've built model planes with the kids and dabble with old camera repair and restoration.   I also do a little furniture building (we have a fully equiped wood shop).   I'm a real geek on all fronts!    ;D

Good advice already give so I'll just add 2 quick things.  

I would wrap the ferrule on a casting rod 3/4"-1" as it will (we all hope!) see much more pressure than a spinning or fly rod used for the same situations.

As for drying motors, I like them slow... I only use a 3 rpm and a 6 rpm now.  I turn the rod by hand when applying finish.  I started with the 6 rpm which I actually bought to turn epoxy head flies with, and have experimented with faster and slower...  slower gives me more consistent results.

Good advice already give so I'll just add 2 quick things.  

I would wrap the ferrule on a casting rod 3/4"-1" as it will (we all hope!) see much more pressure than a spinning or fly rod used for the same situations.

Thanks for the advice..  I will do so.

As for drying motors, I like them slow... I only use a 3 rpm and a 6 rpm now.  I turn the rod by hand when applying finish.  I started with the 6 rpm which I actually bought to turn epoxy head flies with, and have experimented with faster and slower...  slower gives me more consistent results.

Hmmmm.. I've already placed my order to mudhole for a dryer that runs at 11rpm.  Seemed like a good compromise.  I hope it's not going to be an issue.

I'm going to buy my wrapper from my local dealer (to support him) and play around on cheapo rods I have here, and re-thread the guides.  So I'll practice on some junk before doing the real thing.    

Hi Theresamarie,

Yes I ment Ticonderoga.  We caught a bunch of fish today.  Mostly LM and a couple of pike.  Nothing huge, the largest were around 3 pounds.  Lots of smaller fish.  The spinnerbait rod I made got another good workout today. The smallies are easier to find in the spring.  But if I go to the northern area I usually try to start on rocky points or shore lines when looking for smallies.

Good luck this weekend.  I have a painting project that needs to be finished.  The weather doesn't look that great so staying in to paint will not seem too bad. :

Hmmmm.. I've already placed my order to mudhole for a dryer that runs at 11rpm. Seemed like a good compromise. I hope it's not going to be an issue.

Don't worry, there are as many people that prefer 11, 14, 18 as there are like me... probably has more to do with what you learn with than anything else. As long as you are not turning fast enough to sling finish off the rod!! ...lol

I think my preference for the slow motors is twofold- the slower turn gives the finish a chance to move, showing me if I've applied too much. Secondly, once I apply finish, I can really inspect each guide as it rotates... I can't see small bubbles if it's spinning much faster than 6 rpm. I can work on the bubbles or even guide foot tunnels while the rod is spinning. If I have applied too much, I can wick excess while it's turning at low speed.

Just be sure the rod is level when it's turning... otherwise you'll have finish built up on the low side.

I keep some 6" scrap rod pieces to stick into the female rod section while wrapping and finishing the ferrule. Just remember to turn the connection a couple of times during drying so they don't stick together. Everyone's different, but I like to apply finish while the rod is still on the power wrapper at a higher rpm. I discovered this method accidently while doing a repair. My results are much better than when I used the dryer. Try it on a scrap & see. Your 11 rpm motor may be perfect. I also use spatulas to apply the final coat of finish and it eliminated 90% of bubbles for me. I use Flex Coat's 6rpm dryer. As for fuzzy cuts, try to cut the tag end as close to the final wrap as you can (I use fly tying scissors) and pull the thread diagonally in the direction of the wrap. I rarely have a visible tag end, but when I do, I have a little alchohol torch with a squeeze blower that lets you pin point the flame at the fuzzy. It's a wonderful tool for burning off fuzz and only costs about 10 bucks.

Hope this helps,

Ronnie