For the devcon guys, take a look at Flex Coat rod builders epoxy.   I just finished the sealer coat on some baits with this stuff.   It mixes clear and is water proof.   The pot life was 2x longer than devcon and it thins with denatured alcohol.   On thinning, the first batch I thinned too much and it likes to run and sag.   2nd batch I cut my thinner in half and it was perfect.

I have some baits painted and will top coat those tomorrow and report the results.   I opinion right now is I've found my new epoxy.

Marty -

That sounds like a great option, I might have to try it myself. Have you tried Dick Nites?

Big M told me about it about five to six months ago. I used it for about four months then try the D2T again to finish up what I had left. The Flex Coat drys clearer, from the guys I paint for claims it holds up better, UV protection in it and so much easier to use. Like M said, X2.

You guys might want to try threadmaster and or threadmaster lite (it's even thinner) for your finish...  The consensus with most rodbuilders that have used both is that threadmaster is easier to work with, clearer than flex coat and stays clearer over time. (better UV protection)  

Perma gloss may be the best option around.  I don't have any working experience with it but amongst the rod builders it is said to be the absolute toughest. (and water clear)  It a one part.  You can manipulate it's pot life by controlling the temp and humidity in the room.  

Probably worth a small bottle of each to test head to head, especially for those who sell or make a bunch of baits.

There are two types of epoxy from Flex Coat. You have the rod builders epoxy, which is used as a "glue" Like the Devcon products.

Then you have the Flex Coat finish epoxies. (High Build and Lite.) This is what is used to cover the thread wraps. These are better suited to the purpose of a top coat on a lure. They now have a UV stabilizer added to the mix.

Dick Nite's lure coat is a great product. It has a few draw backs such as smell. It is not overly strong, but too strong to use in the house at the kitchen table. If proper precautions are not taken, then you can set the whole can off after opening. As it is solvent based, you have to be careful with paint compatibility. If in doubt as to paint compatibility, you can use a top coat of epoxy then the D/N Lure coat.

Dick Nite's is a moisture curing urethane. It is more resistant to hook rash than any epoxy I have ever used. Dries clear and will set up to the touch in a  few hours, but will need at least 3-5 days to cure prior to fishing. I normally wait a week. According to Dick himself, it will continue to cure for 30 days.

Eric

Thanks for info flechero.  Cootertom, I'm not talking about the rod finish, this is the 2 part epoxy for reel seats.   I was using a single coat of devcon over my sealer to give a smooth finish for paint.   I think this stuff will do nice for that purpose.   I still use the rod finish for my top coat.  

I have not tried the Dick Nite's, 1 part mositure cured products stink to bad to use in the house.   I do all my finish work in the kitchen.

I will give the threadmaster product a look.  

Well Wal-Mart quit selling D2T and that was the biggest reason I was using it, it was so easy to obtain when needed. I finally ordered some of the Dick Nites. I also ordered 16 1oz bottles to decant the stuff into. I shouldn't lose any of it that way. I plan on spraying it on to speed up the process. But like mentioned, you better have a good ventilation system.

You'd better have plenty of laquer thinner too to clean out your airbrush when your done! Been there done that. Also, atomizing a solvent based clear coat is like airborne tumer's waiting to happen so be careful.