Looking for anyone with experience on these pumps.  I have an 87 110 evinrude that has been having a fuel issue under a load and while on plane.  The pickup has no Anti-siphon, the fuel bulb and all subsequent lines have been changed as well as the filter.  When under a load the fuel bulb stays firm and fuel is going to the filter.  If anyone has any suggestions they would be great.  Also wondering If the main high side jet on the carburetor might be clogged.

 

Thanks in advance.

So what is the problem?

when the engine is under load, I am either getting a lean condition or to much fuel.  It bogs down, and if I let out of it quick enough it will stay running.  I assume its getting enough fuel, but you know what happens when assuming. 

First off, if you are still using the VRO, I would strongly recommend bypassing it on a motor that old.

It's not uncommon for the valves in the fuel pump side to be bad and it not delivering enough fuel.  I've had a couple of those old pumps do that.

 

My standard setup for one is one of these.  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-p4594  You will need to buy two 3/8" barbs with 1/4" mpt on them,  That or go to a larger pump with 3/8" fittings.  If you do this, you will need to install a standard 30 amp relay to run the pump, it draws too much current to run directly off the key switch and will eventually burn the switch up.   On rare occasions I have to add a fuel regulator set at 6 psi to keep one from  blowing by the needle seats in the carbs.  This whole setup is still about 1/2 price of what a fuel only pump cost for the engine and about 1/5 of what a new VRO (actually a CRO now) would cost.  It also lets you throw that primer bulb away and it makes the engine start like DFI.  Just turn it on, hold the key in a couple seconds and it fires right up.

First off, if you are still using the VRO, I would strongly recommend bypassing it on a motor that old.

It's not uncommon for the valves in the fuel pump side to be bad and it not delivering enough fuel.  I've had a couple of those old pumps do that.

 

My standard setup for one is one of these.  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-p4594  You will need to buy two 3/8" barbs with 1/4" mpt on them,  That or go to a larger pump with 3/8" fittings.  If you do this, you will need to install a standard 30 amp relay to run the pump, it draws too much current to run directly off the key switch and will eventually burn the switch up.   On rare occasions I have to add a fuel regulator set at 6 psi to keep one from  blowing by the needle seats in the carbs.  This whole setup is still about 1/2 price of what a fuel only pump cost for the engine and about 1/5 of what a new VRO (actually a CRO now) would cost.  It also lets you throw that primer bulb away and it makes the engine start like DFI.  Just turn it on, hold the key in a couple seconds and it fires right up.

thank you for the reply, I am very interested in the electric pump approach however was unsure of the pro's and con's involved.  I took it out Friday night and could barely even get it started let alone run.  I quit because I was afraid of scoring the cylinders.

PRO's to electric:

Cost way less than any kind of pump that bolts to motor

Don't need to use a primer bulb

Premixing, you don't have to worry about whether or not motor is getting oil

Motor a lot easier to cold start

easy to install.

Cons:

You have to premix the gas and oil.

You might have to buy a $35 pressure regulator is it pushes the needles off the seat and blows by. That usually only happens if the float levels are too high.

If there are any bad connections in fuel lines, they will leak.

You have to install a relay, very simple process.

Fuel pressure on that motor should be 5 to 6 psi. Before replacing, you might want to check it.

If you completely remove the VRO/Fuel pump, remove the pulse valve from the crankcase and install a plug. Just to bypass the VRO, you only have to unplug the electrical connector to it and the one to the oil tank, so they don't make the alarm sound, and dump the oil out of the tank. Run it for several minutes before dumping the oil tank, just to make sure there is no raw gas trapper some place.

The main jets are very easy to check. Screw that big headed brass screw out of the bottom the fuel bowl and the main screws in behind, use a fairly narrow, thick bladed screwdriver to remove them. Might want to make sure they are all tight, they do have a tendency to back out against the cover and it blocks them off.

If it's not coming out of the hole, it would more likely be with the mids or lows over the main, (if carbs are causing it). The mains don't ever start coming in until about 5,000 rpm.

Now, with all that said, you could very easily have an ignition problem and it's dropping a cylinder or two. Neither the timer base, nor the power pack are the worlds greatest pieces. At that age, a coil or plug wires could be breaking down. The magnets in the flywheel will break loose and get slide together also. I have had the doughnut magnet for the timer base come loose and cause me to chase my butt all over the place troubleshooting it.

One other point, if you install and electric pump, mount it low in the battery compartment so it's close to the level of the bottom of the gas tank. That helps eliminate the possible air pocket from causing cavitation after sitting long periods of time.

PRO's to electric:

Cost way less than any kind of pump that bolts to motor

Don't need to use a primer bulb

Premixing, you don't have to worry about whether or not motor is getting oil

Motor a lot easier to cold start

easy to install.

Cons:

You have to premix the gas and oil.

You might have to buy a $35 pressure regulator is it pushes the needles off the seat and blows by. That usually only happens if the float levels are too high.

If there are any bad connections in fuel lines, they will leak.

You have to install a relay, very simple process.

Fuel pressure on that motor should be 5 to 6 psi. Before replacing, you might want to check it.

If you completely remove the VRO/Fuel pump, remove the pulse valve from the crankcase and install a plug. Just to bypass the VRO, you only have to unplug the electrical connector to it and the one to the oil tank, so they don't make the alarm sound, and dump the oil out of the tank. Run it for several minutes before dumping the oil tank, just to make sure there is no raw gas trapper some place.

The main jets are very easy to check. Screw that big headed brass screw out of the bottom the fuel bowl and the main screws in behind, use a fairly narrow, thick bladed screwdriver to remove them. Might want to make sure they are all tight, they do have a tendency to back out against the cover and it blocks them off.

If it's not coming out of the hole, it would more likely be with the mids or lows over the main, (if carbs are causing it). The mains don't ever start coming in until about 5,000 rpm.

Now, with all that said, you could very easily have an ignition problem and it's dropping a cylinder or two. Neither the timer base, nor the power pack are the worlds greatest pieces. At that age, a coil or plug wires could be breaking down. The magnets in the flywheel will break loose and get slide together also. I have had the doughnut magnet for the timer base come loose and cause me to chase my butt all over the place troubleshooting it.

One other point, if you install and electric pump, mount it low in the battery compartment so it's close to the level of the bottom of the gas tank. That helps eliminate the possible air pocket from causing cavitation after sitting long periods of time.

Thanks so much for the insight.  I put in a single pole double throw relay today and just have to decide when I want to get the pump.  only the fuel side of the VRO is functioning right now. someone had already eliminated the oil side.

Once again thank you for all of the information.

One thing I forgot to mention, if you do take the pump off, DO NOT throw the mounting bracket away.  If later you decide to go back to one, New pumps don't generally come with one and it cost over $100 to buy just the bracket.

I had an idling issue,turned out the carbs were unbalanced on my Johnson evinrude 150. Also think my oil injection is to high but don't want to adjust for fear of leaning out*