reelon Posted July 12, 2005 Share Posted July 12, 2005 There is a person that sells me a 10 ft jon boat for $40 he tells that two of the rivetes have a small leak. Are this rivetes repairable? What do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bipr8 Posted July 12, 2005 Share Posted July 12, 2005 For $40.00...why not. I have a jon that has had leaks for years. My feet get a little wet after about 3-4 hours, but nothing major. I put a marine adhesive on the rivits every year and that does the trick for a little while, but never lasts. Take it out once though and make sure you can get 6 hours out of it without sinking. If the water comes pouring in, it will be more of a headache getting rid of the boat than its worth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reelon Posted July 13, 2005 Author Share Posted July 13, 2005 Just got the boat and i will test it, if there is any problem i will get my money back. Lets see what happens, finally a jon boat for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_jewapo Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 you can weld the rivets and stop the leak. while you're at it weld them all to prevent future leaks. ;D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BASSMAN1301599783 Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 Get some Herculiner and do the whole inside of the boat, the stuff is about 60 bucks a can. Plus it makes it look nice, softens the sound transfered to the water, and makes a non slip surface. ;D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reelon Posted July 13, 2005 Author Share Posted July 13, 2005 thanks for all the tips, I will try to keep you posted and see what happens, I think that first thing is to clean it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Low_Budget_Hooker Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 The herculiner will work for now but overall will just be a bandaid. My last jon was a lowe that had over 40 bad rivets. I drilled them out and filled the hole w/ a tapered head bolt (from underneath) and a nut on the inside. The tapered head fits into the old hole regardless of it's exact size. I put a dab of 3m 5200 marine adhesive/sealant in each hole first. Never had a problem since. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reelon Posted July 14, 2005 Author Share Posted July 14, 2005 I gave the boat a general cleaning today, maybe tomorrow I will sand the bottom part and take a close look to the rest of the rivetes, until now I have only found one that leaks. I think that the idea of the screw in the place of the rivetes is really good, thanks Low_budget_hookers. I am so happy to have found this forum in my first year of fishing ;D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MisterGuru Posted July 14, 2005 Share Posted July 14, 2005 I had 17 leaking rivets in a otherwise very nice jon. I took a 5 lb sledge and a piece of 5/8" all thread to use for a punch and smacked the inside/smaller part of the rivet while my wife held a 10 lb barbell (you can use a second hammer, brick, etc) on the other side. I gave each one 2-3 medium size smacks from the hammer. I placed my boat on two sawhorses to make it easy to work on... not a DROP leaks now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Low_Budget_Hooker Posted July 14, 2005 Share Posted July 14, 2005 this might be kind of obvious but to find any leaks, leave on trailer, or elevate on sawhorses,etc and fill with a couple inches of water. Grab a wax crayon, go underneath and start circling the rivets that are dripping (or pouring:() Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamlet Posted July 16, 2005 Share Posted July 16, 2005 what about a rivet gun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Low_Budget_Hooker Posted July 16, 2005 Share Posted July 16, 2005 These are stamped rivets Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamlet Posted July 16, 2005 Share Posted July 16, 2005 oh, my problem is I don't know the difference. :-X 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Low_Budget_Hooker Posted July 16, 2005 Share Posted July 16, 2005 same thing just bigger and done with a machine as opposed to a tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fisher of Men Posted July 26, 2005 Share Posted July 26, 2005 A few years ago, I had a buddy who used some kind of stick that you used as a "soldering rod" and a Burnzamatic torch to repair the rivets. I think he bought the stuff at a marine equipment store. I think it worked pretty well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Low_Budget_Hooker Posted July 27, 2005 Share Posted July 27, 2005 Yes, brazing sticks they are called and they work fine but there are easier, neater and cheaper ways to repair aluminum now. These are more for cracks than a leaking rivet also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Posted July 27, 2005 Share Posted July 27, 2005 Anything bigger than a popsicle stick that floats is worth at least $40. I would call yours a great deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddpuppy Posted July 27, 2005 Share Posted July 27, 2005 We used to tighten or peen the rivets like M.Guru discribed, we also have replaced some with aircraft rivets they do require special tools, or cut them out and weld them with a heli arc. Aluminum can be brazed or soldered but with a regular heating tip on a oxy/acetalene tourch you have to be very careful that the metal doesn't melt and fall out. Since the rivets and the boat are different materials and dirty it can be a pain. I never have tried the Brazeing Sticks that Fisher/LBH were describeing. About how many cans of Herculiner would it take to do a 14' semi-v? How many coats do you put on? I don't have any leaks I am interested for sound supression and traction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Low_Budget_Hooker Posted July 27, 2005 Share Posted July 27, 2005 I used about 1/2 of the 1 gallon kit when I did mine. 3 coats. I wish I had my trailer ready and prepped because there was more than enough leftover to do that too but the stuff must be used within 17 hours of opening the can. (air reactive) So I ended up throwing a good amount into the trash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cujo Posted July 27, 2005 Share Posted July 27, 2005 i use to have a jon boat that leaked in the rear seat. i got fed up with it and ripped the entire seat out along with all the rivets. i reparied the holes with JB weld (can be found at walmart or any hardware store) then sealed them with marine sealant. that was three years ago and my uncle has the boat now and still hasnt had a problem. as for the missing seat i put ply-wood down then put a pedastal seat in. gave me alot more leg room. good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reelon Posted August 25, 2005 Author Share Posted August 25, 2005 next question on the boat, is it ok to use paint remove on aluminum or should I just sand it? It has about 3 coats of paint in different colors. Thanks for the advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Low_Budget_Hooker Posted August 25, 2005 Share Posted August 25, 2005 I sanded mine (orbital sander-35 grit). Sand blasing is the ultimate option. Once you get down to the boats original color (which is more like a primer green) You can stop. The next step (solvent wash) will remove the rest from the primer down. Revert to this post for sanding/painting steps/stages and feel free to pm me or re-post http://bassresource.com/cgi-bin/bass_fish/YaBB.pl?board=boating_ID;action=display;num=1119359773 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reelon Posted August 25, 2005 Author Share Posted August 25, 2005 Thanks LBH, I will get back to you with this issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHigh Posted August 25, 2005 Share Posted August 25, 2005 First year of fishing, 10' foot leaking jon boat. Please be very cautious. I wouldn't use that boat in any water bigger than I could easily swim across and back again using ny legs alone - say 5 acres max. Forget about a raised pedestal seat unless you weigh less than 80 lbs. I suggest you scull paddle the boat from the front seat and put an ice chest in the back to keep the back of the boat from lifting out of the water. At one time I always kept a heavy duty 14' jon boat with 18" sides (a 1418) with a deck and a single pedastal in front and a 10 hp outboard for fishing small waters. You reall need a 15' boat for two people and a 16' jon boat with a 48" wide transome is much better. There are always deals out there, the trick is to spend you money on what works best for you. My father passed away a couple of years ago and I sold his 14' jon boat, 10 hp Johnson, trailer, 50 lb thrust Minn Kota, battery and a eagle graph fishfinder for $400 total and threw in life jackets, minnow buckets, etc. The young man that got it was thrilled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Low_Budget_Hooker Posted August 25, 2005 Share Posted August 25, 2005 wow, nice score. A 12' is absolutely fishable for 2 people. Been doing it for 25 yrs. I've done it in both a light duty and a heavy duty. With pedestals but keep them to 7-9 inches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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