jb_from_texas Posted December 29, 2005 Share Posted December 29, 2005 I have an 86, 15'4" fiber Skeeter. This particular model does not have the entire front portion of the boat decked. Just the front 2.5-3 feet or so is decked. I'm looking to deck the remaining front section for two reasons: 1) more deck area to walk around without having to step up and down from one level to the other 2) create additional storage under new deck area. I have had some good tips from some, like what type of wood to use, size, expoxing the wood, size screws, etc but wanted to know first hand from someone who has done such a project before.....any tips or tricks. One thing I'm not sure of is if i would be better off using some of the prefab storage bins and hinged covers or building my own. I want all storage areas locked as well. Any one out there with some tips? JB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Low_Budget_Hooker Posted December 29, 2005 Share Posted December 29, 2005 I would use the tackle lockers that hold 4 boxes, same company makes one that's just an empty box too (for clothes,etc.) like this: http://cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/product/standard-item.jsp?_DARGS=/cabelas/en/common/catalog/item-link.jsp_A&_DAV=MainCatcat21276&id=0001527011144a&navCount=1&podId=0001527&parentId=cat21314&navAction=push&catalogCode=IF&rid=&parentType=index&indexId=cat21314&hasJS=true Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super User flechero Posted December 29, 2005 Super User Share Posted December 29, 2005 JB, I would suggest (if someone didn't already) you place some sort of structural support about center of the width, use a wall underneath and then you'll also have seprate strorage compartments. If you have enough width, you might use 2 supports, making 3 compartments. Also, I would mock up a wall around the perimeter of your new deck area to be sure you have the support needed... just epoxying or glassing to the existing walls will likely fail. Be sure to finish the wood you use, even treated wood. I actually prefer non treated wood due to weight and stiffnes but you have to know what you are doing finish wise to ensure water doesn't penetrate. (that inclues screw holes and everything) With treated wood, be sure to lightly sand areas that will get epoxy. And when you are done with the project, go over all wood with a quality finish, inside and out. You can use fiberglass epoxy (home depot or lowes) as a finish, it's very tough, water tight and will outlast any paint or urathane... just paint it on, but mix in small batches, you get about 8 - 9 minutes working time after mixing. (buy cheap brushes, because about 9 minutes and 5 seconds later, the epoxy will harden almost instantly!) There are better ways to do it but they are expensive and really time consuming. As for lids, if you are going to carpet the new deck or recarpet the whole deck, I would get a few of the prefabed aluminum lids, the are strong can be carpeted and easy to install locks in. The plastic ones from BPS and Cabela's are convenient but not lockable, and when you install locks on them, they are still easy to break with a regular screwdriver. I'm not sure but I don't think they are made to be stood and walked on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jb_from_texas Posted December 29, 2005 Author Share Posted December 29, 2005 thanks flech, i was planning on using ACX treated fur plywood and epoxying the entire thing. Was told that screwing and adhering a rail along inside of hull with 4200 caulk and #8 marine grade screws would be sufficient support, along with support beams under the deck. Was also told to drill a wider hole than needed for screws, fill it with epoxy or 4200 (cant remember which) and then set the screw. does this sound right to you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Low_Budget_Hooker Posted December 29, 2005 Share Posted December 29, 2005 I would use 5200 in the holes, it's a sealant AND adhesive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super User cart7t Posted December 29, 2005 Super User Share Posted December 29, 2005 Most people who do deck inserts suggest using fiberglass resin to seal the wood. Whatever you do, don't use pressure treated wood of any kind. Pressure treated wood won't allow the resin to penetrate sufficiently. If you use marine grade plywood or a composite laminate no sealing is needed but the cost of those materials makes their use almost prohibitive. Aftermarket doors are available but very expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super User flechero Posted December 30, 2005 Super User Share Posted December 30, 2005 I would use 5200 in the holes, it's a sealant AND adhesive. Yes, it will also give a little... and unless you are tip toeing around, you will have a little flexing here and there. I would also put a small "leg" in the corners because you don't want to rely soley on screws in a gunnel that wasn't originally designed to support a deck. Sounds like a fun project, or at least one that when finished will be enjoyed! Are you just from Tx or do you still live here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super User Gatorbassman Posted December 30, 2005 Super User Share Posted December 30, 2005 I am in the middle of doing mine. I am taking pictures as I go along. so I might have a few suggestions in the comming days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jb_from_texas Posted December 30, 2005 Author Share Posted December 30, 2005 I would use 5200 in the holes, it's a sealant AND adhesive. Yes, it will also give a little... and unless you are tip toeing around, you will have a little flexing here and there. I would also put a small "leg" in the corners because you don't want to rely soley on screws in a gunnel that wasn't originally designed to support a deck. Sounds like a fun project, or at least one that when finished will be enjoyed! Are you just from Tx or do you still live here? I was born and raised in Lubbock. My job took me to central florida in 98. my youngest was born in florida BUT she had a gallon zip lock bag of Texas soil under her when she was delivered. So she IS a Texas girl. Thanks for all the advice from all and I look forward to seeing the pictures. They will help. Please post them. Thx. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super User flechero Posted December 30, 2005 Super User Share Posted December 30, 2005 "...my youngest was born in florida BUT she had a gallon zip lock bag of Texas soil under her when she was delivered. So she IS a Texas girl. " Classic, I love it!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longshot Posted January 1, 2006 Share Posted January 1, 2006 I done the same thing to my boat about three years ago. I had the same questions, and I went with 1\4" aluminum for the decking material. It was a little pricey but with the cost of lumber now it may not be much different. The benifit of aluminum is not much bracing is required. It will not rot, warp, or degrade in any way. It is also a lot lighter than marine grade. The drawback with the aluminum is that it is not easy to work with (cut, weld, etc.). If you have the tools or know someone that does you will not be dissappointed with it in my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IllinoisBasser Posted January 2, 2006 Share Posted January 2, 2006 Hey fellas,Picking up a 14ft V hull aluminum in a few weeks that is going to need total redecking and carpeting,will be posting some questions soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IllinoisBasser Posted January 2, 2006 Share Posted January 2, 2006 I just went from newbie to junior member! 8-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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