ok, when I pulled the cotter pin and took off the nut, I pulled the hub/wheel off and the outer bearing fell right out.  The inner bearing however, is another story.  I tapped lightly to see if it needed a little cohersion but it wouldn't come out.  Now is it possible that I remember having to really give that thing a good shot with hammer and a wooden dowel (did this about 15 yrs ago)?  Does it come out the same side as the outer bearing or does it come out the inner side.  If the inner side, do I need to get the grease seal off first or will it come out with the bearing?

Thanks guys.

Depends on how "stuck" it is.  You may have to knock it off from behind, you may be able to give it a couple of good yannks and it comes off.  If it is really stuck, it will either pull through the seal or the seal will come out of the hub and stay behind the bearing.   Now, if it's that stuck, there are several levels of effort to get it off.  The first is getting a chisel and trying to knock if off from the back side, you may want to go ahead and knock the cage off so it and the rollers are out of your way.  If that don't work, the next step it to bust the inner race with a chisel, wear a face shield and jacket trying this, those fragments will pentrate skin if they fly off and hit you,  A cheap chisel will not work for this operation either and use a big 2 - 3 pound hammer.  The next step is to take a tourch and cut if off.  If you have a tourch, skip busting the race and get the tourch out.  

Thanks Ben.

The inner bearing moves around plenty in there but reaches a point where it won't go any further (no matter what side I try and take it out) So I'm thinking the races are shot too which may lead me to just buy 2 whole hub assemblies for $40 ea and not have to bother with all this. My problem now is that I don't know the shaft size and don't have a micrometer or a vernier gauge here. Can anyone tell me the shaft size by the bearing number? or maybe know where I could look up the inside diameter of a certain bearing? The bearing # is lm 11949.

Any help is really appreciated.

you can try some emorycloth ans sand down a little spot where it gets stuck at and then pull it off

Below should tell you everything you need to know

LM11949[ch12395][ch35442][ch24403][ch12377][ch12427][ch12506][ch12540][ch12472][ch12364][ch35211][ch12388][ch12363][ch12426][ch12414][ch12379][ch12435][ch12391][ch12375][ch12383][ch12290]

[ch26908][ch32034][ch12398][ch12498][ch12531][ch12488]

[ch12461][ch12540][ch12527][ch12540][ch12489][ch12395][ch35492][ch23383][ch12539][ch33073][ch23383][ch12364][ch12394][ch12356][ch12363][ch30906][ch12363][ch12417][ch12390][ch12367][ch12384][ch12373][ch12356][ch12290]

[ch36949][ch12358][ch12461][ch12540][ch12527][ch12540][ch12489][ch12434][ch20351][ch12387][ch12390][ch12415][ch12390][ch12367][ch12384][ch12373][ch12356][ch12290]

[ch12424][ch12426][ch19968][ch33324][ch30340][ch12394][ch35328][ch33865][ch12434][ch20351][ch12387][ch12390][ch12415][ch12390][ch12367][ch12384][ch12373][ch12356][ch12290]

[ch12461][ch12540][ch12527][ch12540][ch12489][ch12398][ch25968][ch12434][ch23569][ch12394][ch12367][ch12375][ch12390][ch12415][ch12390][ch12367][ch12384][ch12373][ch12356][ch12290]

Was this bearing torn up.  From what you're describing you need to make a trip to Northern Tools and get you a new spindle.

I would go ahead and try to knock it off from the back side, just put a board or something over the rim so you don't beat it up.  It should either knock the bearing through the seal or knock the seal out.  Then you can see if the hup is still good and what shape the spindal is in.

I'll see if I can come up with some readable info on the bearing, just figured you would like that one.

Below should tell you everything you need to know

LM11949[ch12395][ch35442][ch24403][ch12377][ch12427][ch12506][ch12540][ch12472][ch12364][ch35211][ch12388][ch12363][ch12426][ch12414][ch12379][ch12435][ch12391][ch12375][ch12383][ch12290]

[ch26908][ch32034][ch12398][ch12498][ch12531][ch12488]

[ch12461][ch12540][ch12527][ch12540][ch12489][ch12395][ch35492][ch23383][ch12539][ch33073][ch23383][ch12364][ch12394][ch12356][ch12363][ch30906][ch12363][ch12417][ch12390][ch12367][ch12384][ch12373][ch12356][ch12290]

[ch36949][ch12358][ch12461][ch12540][ch12527][ch12540][ch12489][ch12434][ch20351][ch12387][ch12390][ch12415][ch12390][ch12367][ch12384][ch12373][ch12356][ch12290]

[ch12424][ch12426][ch19968][ch33324][ch30340][ch12394][ch35328][ch33865][ch12434][ch20351][ch12387][ch12390][ch12415][ch12390][ch12367][ch12384][ch12373][ch12356][ch12290]

[ch12461][ch12540][ch12527][ch12540][ch12489][ch12398][ch25968][ch12434][ch23569][ch12394][ch12367][ch12375][ch12390][ch12415][ch12390][ch12367][ch12384][ch12373][ch12356][ch12290]

guess hes saying your s@#t  outta luck

I would go ahead and try to knock it off from the back side, just put a board or something over the rim so you don't beat it up. It should either knock the bearing through the seal or knock the seal out. Then you can see if the hup is still good and what shape the spindal is in.

I'll see if I can come up with some readable info on the bearing, just figured you would like that one.

Maybe this one is a little better http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200308411_200308411

After telling you might want to go to them for a spindal, figured they would have the bearing also.

That must be a little jon boat trailer to have those 3/4" diameter bearings.

The spindle was pretty flawless.  THe entire hub/tire slid right off the spindle like butter then the outer bearing fell right out.  The inner bearing is "floating" loose in there but wont come out either way without some due force but then I'm thinking the race is gone too so should I just get new hub assemblies?  They are only like $15 more than the all the bearing parts.  If so, what size spindle would that be for the lm 11949?

I just went to that site. Awesome. How would I find out what hub assembly is for the 11949 so I can replace it with the right one. THere are tons of choices there. When it said 3/4" on the 11949 page, does that mean a 3/4 ' spindle?

Wait now, it's time to back up and regroup. I thought you said the hub was stuck on the spindle/axle.

If you have the hub off and are talking about the inner bearing being loose and floppy inside the hub, that totally normal. You have to take a drift of something and go in from the outer bearing opening and knock it and the seal out. If you have a seal puller, you might be able to pop the seal out and then the bearing just lifts out, I just use a drift or rounded edge chisel and knock them out. The seal is the only thing holding the bearing in. Knock them out, wash them up good with mineral spirits and if they or the races are not pitted, pack them, replace the seals and put it back together. Sounds like the only thing you need is a pair of seals. If the race is bad, it knocks out from the opposite side and the new one knocks in, just be careful putting the new one in if using steel tools, you can chip/break it if hit it with too much force in one spot. Those bearings sets show the race with them, just not the seals. I think the race is a 11910.

Yes, it will take a 3/4" diameter spindle. About the only difference in 3/4" spindle will be the end that welds on, they be come in square or round end. If the spindle in not bad, and there is not a grove in it where the seal runs, I wouldn't mess with it.

You can call their support and they should be able to tell you which hub. The have Northern tool stores in most cities so you may have one close to you.

With a tapper roller bearing, the spindle nut is what holds everything together, that's why the inner bearing is loose and falling around in there right now. The two opposite tappers are forced together when you snugg the nut. tighten the nut to snugg and back if off (loosen it) slightly to install cotter pin. There should be a very slight movement in the wheel when you try to wiggle it back and forth after installing this. This is so the bearing has a small clearance for the grease. Too tight and there will be no grease film clearance, the bearing will burn up in a short time.

Thanks again Ben.  Yes, I have the whole hub off, outer bearing just fell right out but wasn't sure if I remembered correctly about having to force the inner bearing out but you said it's the seal that is the only thing holding it in and I will bang it out the uinner side now that I know that is what I'm supposed to do.  

Just wanted a second opinion basically but I got lucky and "Ben" answered with EVERYTHING I need to know (for now,lol)

Thanks again, I'm going to give it a shot again today.  The drag is that the boat is 45 mins away from my house right now.  Making this a Pain in the ......

I have the 1 hub home and will see if I can do that one today.

Thanks again for taking the time Ben

An easy way to remove the back bearing is as follows.  First remove the pin and castle nut like you did.  Second wiggle the wheel to loosen the front bearing.  Third remove the front bearing but leave the hub on the axel.  Fourth reinstall the washer and castle nut, does not have to be really tight.  Now the fun part pull the hub assembly forward until the bearing hits the washer and castle nut.  A couple of quick pulls on the hub and the rear bearing should be hanging on the axel along with the washer and castle nut.

Good luck guys.

Tom D.

An easy way to remove the back bearing is as follows. First remove the pin and castle nut like you did. Second wiggle the wheel to loosen the front bearing. Third remove the front bearing but leave the hub on the axel. Fourth reinstall the washer and castle nut, does not have to be really tight. Now the fun part pull the hub assembly forward until the bearing hits the washer and castle nut. A couple of quick pulls on the hub and the rear bearing should be hanging on the axel along with the washer and castle nut.

Good luck guys.

Tom D.

This is the method I've always used, easy as one two threesy.

If you don't have the trailer at the house to do this you will have to do as Ben said. Depending how large the hub is, you should be able to use a deepwell socket or anything similar.

I just had to change out my rear seals and let me tell you they are a son of a gun to get out.  The way I did it was to remove the castle nut, washer, and outer bearing form the spindle.  Then remove the hub and set it rear side down in a vise letting the back of the hub rest on top of the vise.  Then I took the largest socket I had (probably 1 1/4") with a long extension attached to it and put it down through the hub and on top of the rear bearing then gave it a couple of good whacks on the extension.  That broke the seal loose enough I could pull it on out and the the bearing will come out the back side once you get that seal out.  It is a messy process so have plenty of rags available to keep the parts and your hands wiped off.

If all else fails do like someone ele suggested and go to Northern Tool or call them and they can get you the right size new hubs ready to install and roll away on.