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Riazuli

Tips to prevent braid from snapping on casts

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Hey everyone, I had been having a lot of issues with braid since last summer and have come up with the following suggestions for anyone having similar issues related to: braid digging in and snapping on the cast or at least getting random backlash and the lure stopping dead in the air.  

 

Braid doesn't really stretch like mono or fluorocarbon line does.  If there are any kinks or the braid has dug in to the spool from a previous backlash, lure getting snagged and pulling hard on the line, catching a large fish, etc., it can snap from too much force applied.  This can send your lure flying...but with no line attached.  I probably lost a handful of lures before making all of the proper adjustments, so I feel your pain if this is happening to you.  This can even happen with 30lb+ braid, but the chances are slimmer than with thinner braids of course. Here are the steps to consider: 

 

1.  What kind of braid and what strength are you using?  A lot of people recommend 30lb test and up to prevent digging in due to larger line diameter, but this all really depends on brand and type.  I'm a big fan of original power pro 30lb, as it has been working well for me after switching from 15 lbs on two of my reels.  My other two reels are being outfitted with sufix 832 at 30lb test, which I've heard a lot of good things about in terms of smoothness, strength, and durability.  Some guys are happy with lower test braid, and I've seen a few guys say they use 20lb test comfortably.  I'm perfectly happy with 30 lbs and might even go higher for my froggin/slop setup.  

 

2.  When you tie on a different lure, are you checking your line for dig in spots/kinks and are you readjusting or at least considering your brakes and tension knob?  If you switch from a worm to a spinner bait and the wind just started to pick up, you just might get a backlash and lose that spinnerbait.  I often start spinnerbaits at brakes set to 2 (especially if it's windy) and tension knob set to a slow fall.  I think it's a good idea to readjust brakes and tension knob after any lure change - I usually keep the brakes on 1 and only set to two if it's windy or if I'm using a high wind drag lure like a spinnerbait/chatterbait/something else wide (and even just every so often without changing lures as your tension knob can get looser over time). 

 

3.  Check your line every so often.  Pull out a few yards after casts every now and then to clear the line from any overrun.  When reeling the extra line back in or loose line in general, it can help to hold the line in order to get a tight and even spooling.  Pay attention to your spool every now and then before casts.  This whole process doesn't have to become a nerve wrecking ordeal either - I've got a system down where it just feels to be a natural routine in my fishing and I can say I feel much better than having to fix backlashes all the time or watching $5-10 (more or less) fly into oblivion with a hopeless jaw drop.  

 

4.  Increase casting distance and power gradually from when you start and when you put on new lures, and just every so often.  I'll start off with a short and east cast of say 10 yards, and then gradually increase it to 15, 20, 30, etc.  This helps to ensure that you're clearing the line effectively instead of going for a 30+ yard cast right away, only to run into a kink or dig in and lose a lure in the process.  Also, general reel maintenance is key to smoothness and castability. Keep those reels cleaned and lubed as needed!  Also, keep casts smooth and never swing it like you're trying to hit a home run - that's a good way to lose a lure. 

 

5.  An additional tip that is not absolutely necessary, but can help with smoothness, preventing backlash, and overall castability is using a line and lure conditioner the night before fishing.  I use kvd L&L conditioner every now and then and this really helped me while I was getting into the groove of my routine.  Now that I've got things down, I don't feel I need it as much, but is still nice to use every now and then.  Using LLC the night before can be more forgiving if you forget to implement the above tips right away when starting your day. 

 

I hope that helps for anyone running into this issue.  Tight lines! 

 

 

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Of those tips I pay attention to two.  I started with 40# braid as my first choice as it was suggested at that time as a minimum to avoid dig in.  I've never had a problem with that weight.  A used reel came with 30# 832.  I spent some time upon first getting it making casts and then pulling out more line before retrieving and repeating.  Not had a problem with it since....but

 

similar to tip 3 every so often I'll pull out a little extra line after a cast and hold the line between my fingers on retrieve to get it wound tighter on the spool.  Been snagged several times with it and it hasn't dug in yet.

 

Spool tension and brakes don't get touched unless I start to get overruns or backlashes.

 

I've never felt the need for any kind of line conditioner with braid.  No idea how it would affect line control.

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10 minutes ago, new2BC4bass said:

Of those tips I pay attention to two.  I started with 40# braid as my first choice as it was suggested at that time as a minimum to avoid dig in.  I've never had a problem with that weight.  A used reel came with 30# 832.  I spent some time upon first getting it making casts and then pulling out more line before retrieving and repeating.  Not had a problem with it since....but

 

similar to tip 3 every so often I'll pull out a little extra line after a cast and hold the line between my fingers on retrieve to get it wound tighter on the spool.  Been snagged several times with it and it hasn't dug in yet.

 

Spool tension and brakes don't get touched unless I start to get overruns or backlashes.

 

I've never felt the need for any kind of line conditioner with braid.  No idea how it would affect line control.

I forgot to mention holding the line for a tight spool - adding that in now!  That's great that your routine is working for you. I figured this would be a sort of comprehensive guide to cover all the bases if needed.  

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I have been using braid since the early 1990s. I have never had it snap on a cast. Started with 30 lb original spiderwire. Went to 50 lb powerpro. Then used. Spiderwire stealth for a short time followed by sufix performance braid and sufix 832. Used berkely professional grade with awesome results.tried diawa j braid and am now using tufline domin8.out ofaprox 25 years of braid use I've never snapped it on a cast. 

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3 minutes ago, dodgeguy said:

I have been using braid since the early 1990s. I have never had it snap on a cast. Started with 30 lb original spiderwire. Went to 50 lb powerpro. Then used. Spiderwire stealth for a short time followed by sufix performance braid and sufix 832. Used berkely professional grade with awesome results.tried diawa j braid and am now using tufline domin8.out ofaprox 25 years of braid use I've never snapped it on a cast. 

You're one of the lucky ones :) looks like you started out with a decent strength line to begin with.  One of my main issues was starting off with 20 lb test in a less used brand (mustad) and then only 15 lb for power pro.  I still had a couple snaps on the 30 lb but that was from casting way too hard and then not adjusting for the dig in from that first cast - so yeah, two in a row lol.  Haven't had a snap since then.  

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3 hours ago, dodgeguy said:

I have been using braid since the early 1990s. I have never had it snap on a cast. Started with 30 lb original spiderwire. Went to 50 lb powerpro. Then used. Spiderwire stealth for a short time followed by sufix performance braid and sufix 832. Used berkely professional grade with awesome results.tried diawa j braid and am now using tufline domin8.out ofaprox 25 years of braid use I've never snapped it on a cast. 

I see you didn't totally disappear!  Second post of yours I have seen in the past few months.  Hope all is well with you.

 

All I've got to say is you obviously pay more attention to the end of your rod than I usually do.  I snapped off a new 1/2 oz. jig with 30# braid when the line was wrapped around the tip and I didn't notice it.  Only wish I could cast that far with the line still attached.  :teeth:

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I have given up on braid except on my frog rod and it has 50lb Sufix 832.  I sure do not whip it out on the cast, but rather like a fancy lob and do not have problems.

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Try a uni knot with 5+ wraps.  I think you will find that the line 'snaps' less frequently when the spool stops due to a dig in when using a uni knot.   A lot of what you are attributing to line failure is likely the knot slipping.  

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If you do backlash or even have a few sloppy casts that don't backlash, it helps to take preventative measures. Attach a hard pulling lure (e.g., a big deep diver) drop your line in the water, drive away until your spool is nearly empty, then reel your lure back in.

 

But the most important thing, IMO, is to never go lighter than 40 lb braid on a baitcaster.

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On 1/28/2018 at 11:04 AM, Riazuli said:

You're one of the lucky ones :) looks like you started out with a decent strength line to begin with.  One of my main issues was starting off with 20 lb test in a less used brand (mustad) and then only 15 lb for power pro.  I still had a couple snaps on the 30 lb but that was from casting way too hard and then not adjusting for the dig in from that first cast - so yeah, two in a row lol.  Haven't had a snap since then.  

Count me as a lucky one also.  I've never had braid snap on a cast.  I have had it backlash,wrap around my tip, etc.....but the lure always stays attached.  

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1 hour ago, BaitFinesse said:

Try a uni knot with 5+ wraps.  I think you will find that the line 'snaps' less frequently when the spool stops due to a dig in when using a uni knot.   A lot of what you are attributing to line failure is likely the knot slipping.  

I've been using the Uni Knot for somewhere in the 50 year neighborhood.  I have straightened out jig hooks with the same 30# braid.  Steady pull, naturally.

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2 hours ago, OnthePotomac said:

I have given up on braid except on my frog rod and it has 50lb Sufix 832.  I sure do not whip it out on the cast, but rather like a fancy lob and do not have problems.

This is pretty much where I have ended up.  I am going to give 15lb braid one more chance on a shallow spooled finesse casting reel, but other then that, I am sticking with floro or mono on my casting combos.  

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Along the lines of #3, after every trip I always completely unspool my line, and re-retrieve it to do a complete re-seat of the line on my rigs. I run the line through my fingers to check for kinks and make sure I pack it on tight. Seems to help a lot, especially after outings where I've had a decent amount of digs for one reason or another.

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On 1/28/2018 at 11:57 AM, dodgeguy said:

I have been using braid since the early 1990s. I have never had it snap on a cast. Started with 30 lb original spiderwire. Went to 50 lb powerpro. Then used. Spiderwire stealth for a short time followed by sufix performance braid and sufix 832. Used berkely professional grade with awesome results.tried diawa j braid and am now using tufline domin8.out ofaprox 25 years of braid use I've never snapped it on a cast. 

Bless your casting skills, you lucky dog

 

Most of my snap is always at the connection between FC/Braid. I have tried so many knots but i think the guides are so small that it would just kaput ! I have switched to full braid or FC to make my life easier. Only on spinning reels which is more forgiving..

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With your initial post, I'm confused.  I'm not certain if you're asking questions as to how to prevent the problems you're having or offering tips as to how to prevent those problems.

 

The only rod that's given me issues with connection knots was a Rage rod towards the end of last season.  My plan is to upgrade the guides.  Otherwise, I've very rarely had issues with connection knots breaking and I'm almost always using Uni to Uni connections.  Was the original question regarding the braid itself snapping?  

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3 hours ago, BaitFinesse said:

Try a uni knot with 5+ wraps.  I think you will find that the line 'snaps' less frequently when the spool stops due to a dig in when using a uni knot.   A lot of what you are attributing to line failure is likely the knot slipping.  

I considered that, but am sure that I had snaps either directly from the spool or somehwere in the middle.  I even snagged one of my lures that I had launched after a snap and had ablit 20 yards of line attached.  Good recommendation regardless. 

28 minutes ago, Turkey sandwich said:

With your initial post, I'm confused.  I'm not certain if you're asking questions as to how to prevent the problems you're having or offering tips as to how to prevent those problems.

 

The only rod that's given me issues with connection knots was a Rage rod towards the end of last season.  My plan is to upgrade the guides.  Otherwise, I've very rarely had issues with connection knots breaking and I'm almost always using Uni to Uni connections.  Was the original question regarding the braid itself snapping?  

This is more of a comprehensive guide to consider if you're having these issues. 

Edited by Riazuli

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