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simek3ru

New TM and Garmin Install Questions/Help

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Hi All,

 

I am in the middle of doing work on my boat for the first time - new TM and Garmin at the console.  I have replaced my old 12v 46 lb MG with a new 12v 55lb Terrova.  It's all mounted up no problem, but have a few questions below:

 

1) The current wiring is 8ga and I'd love to just use the existing wiring with a new 60amp circuit breaker to replace the 40amp by the battery.  Will this be ok or do I absolutely NEED to run new 6ga?

2) Would you recommend I buy a new MK plug and receptacle? Or can I cut off the old plug from the MG and splice it to the new power cables?

3) Where are most of you mounting your GPS puck? I plan to mount it on the outside console dash, just past the windshield.  Any other suggestions?

4) How do you power your GPS puck?  Are you running the power all the way back to the battery, or fuse box?

 

 

Now a few on the Garmin install:

 

1) Since I am replacing the console unit, can I use the same power wire run by cutting the old unit plug off and splicing into the Garmin power?

2) Another dumb question - I have both bow and console units that are both powered by one set of power cables to the rear battery.  How is this possible?  I would expect to see two sets of power cables to the rear battery.  What am I missing here?

 

Thanks for the taking the time to read and entertain these questions. I am a total newbie to this stuff!

 

Jason

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Without seeing what you have, it’s hard to answer your questions. You should always try and avoid splicing your trolling motor wires whenever you can. The 8 gauge wire could be fine. How long is the distance between the motor and the battery? What does the plug on your old motor look like? You should be able to take it apart, remove the old wires and replace with the new.  Which model Garmin are you using? I’ve got 2 Garmins and neither have a “puck” for the GPS. 

You should use the current wires to power your new depthfinder. Running one power cord to power both units is fine as long as each unit has it’s own fuse. 

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Here is a pic of the old TM plug and new TM power wires.  This is what I was asking if I could cut the plug and splice on the new TM power wires.

 

Pic2.jpg.9604a1b59d8382f6d314bbeaa78d8af5.jpg

 

 

Here is a pic of the TM GPS puck (not Garmin) mount location and then the old cables from the previous console unit. Can I just cut that power cable and splice to the Garmin power cable?  The Garmin power cable has an inline fuse built in, so I would do this after the fuse.

 

Pic1.jpg.b8bebbc89b3df34b4bc242d3d398737b.jpg

 

Thanks for the reply!

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1) The current wiring is 8ga and I'd love to just use the existing wiring with a new 60amp circuit breaker to replace the 40amp by the battery.  Will this be ok or do I absolutely NEED to run new 6ga?

 

My cable run is about 13-14 feet from bow to battery.

 

3) Where are most of you mounting your GPS puck? I plan to mount it on the outside console dash, just past the windshield.  Any other suggestions?

4) How do you power your GPS puck?  Are you running the power all the way back to the battery, or fuse box?

 

I decided to move the TM GPS puck to the front of the boat closer to the TM itself.  There is power for the bow light plug and engine title up there.  Assume I can just tap into one of those power sources for this?

 

1) Since I am replacing the console unit, can I use the same power wire run by cutting the old unit plug off and splicing into the Garmin power?

 

I found where the old fish finder was plugged in on the fuse box.

 

Pic3.jpg.fb7e63a083aa88ead1bbb0e9ae4291ff.jpg

 

Since, as you can tell, I know next to nothing about electrical - will my new Garmin Striker Plus 9sv be able to use the 5 amp fuse there?  How can I tell if I need a larger or smaller amp fuse?

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11 hours ago, simek3ru said:

Hi All,

 

I am in the middle of doing work on my boat for the first time - new TM and Garmin at the console.  I have replaced my old 12v 46 lb MG with a new 12v 55lb Terrova.  It's all mounted up no problem, but have a few questions below:

 

1) The current wiring is 8ga and I'd love to just use the existing wiring with a new 60amp circuit breaker to replace the 40amp by the battery.  Will this be ok or do I absolutely NEED to run new 6ga?

2) Would you recommend I buy a new MK plug and receptacle? Or can I cut off the old plug from the MG and splice it to the new power cables?

3) Where are most of you mounting your GPS puck? I plan to mount it on the outside console dash, just past the windshield.  Any other suggestions?

4) How do you power your GPS puck?  Are you running the power all the way back to the battery, or fuse box?

 

 

Now a few on the Garmin install:

 

1) Since I am replacing the console unit, can I use the same power wire run by cutting the old unit plug off and splicing into the Garmin power?

2) Another dumb question - I have both bow and console units that are both powered by one set of power cables to the rear battery.  How is this possible?  I would expect to see two sets of power cables to the rear battery.  What am I missing here?

 

Thanks for the taking the time to read and entertain these questions. I am a total newbie to this stuff!

 

Jason

TM

 

1: There are spreadsheets on the web that should tell you if your wires are adequate for the amps your new TM can pull VS the length of the wire.  Minn Kota can tell you how many amps your TM can pull, and the recommended Breaker.

 

2:  I would buy a plug, soldering the splice is how I would put them together if not doing a plug, but then you loose the ability to disconnect easily.  The cost is minimal VS the convenience.

 

3: I assume the puck is for the "jog" feature of Ipilot, I am not an authority on the install, but my gut tells me that mounting it further away from the TM would be better, I believe that the system uses the TM and the puck to determine the attitude of the boat.  So that way it "knows" that when you jog left, that it will go left in relation to wherever the boat is currently pointing.  Meaning it needs a reference in order to make the move, north/south/east/west is irrelevant to the Ipilot, it simply needs to know which way you are pointing in order to make the correct move.  So further from the TM would make the system more accurately determine attitude.

 

Garmin

 

1: If that picture of the wire hanging out of the fuse is how the current unit is powered, then I would not bother splicing into that for the new Garmin.  I would make a more permanent connection to 12v.  You will have to choose where.

 

2:  My Garmin Echomap plus 73sv has a 3A fuse, so two of them drawing 6A total should be well within the limitations of the wire.  There should be an inline fuse in the power cable that Garmin gave you, that will tell you what the correct fuse should be, should also be in the manual as well.

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When I installed my garmin I had an older lowrance 4x mounted in the dash, one of the dinosaur units. I cut the power supply to the old lowrance and spliced in the new power supply to the garmin. Works like a dream. After one day out on the water with my new Garmin I couldn't believe how I had fished without one before. 

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17 hours ago, TheRodFather said:

TM

 

1: There are spreadsheets on the web that should tell you if your wires are adequate for the amps your new TM can pull VS the length of the wire.  Minn Kota can tell you how many amps your TM can pull, and the recommended Breaker.

Yup - looked it up and it should be 6 AWG for the length run, so looks like I'll be "trying" to fish new wires.  My initial thought is to try pulling both ends and see which one is easier, then duck tape the new power cords to the old power cords and pull/push push it through.  I just know that won't go as smooth as I'd like, but maybe I'll get lucky.

 

17 hours ago, TheRodFather said:

 

2:  I would buy a plug, soldering the splice is how I would put them together if not doing a plug, but then you loose the ability to disconnect easily.  The cost is minimal VS the convenience.

Thanks, will be doing this

17 hours ago, TheRodFather said:

 

3: I assume the puck is for the "jog" feature of Ipilot, I am not an authority on the install, but my gut tells me that mounting it further away from the TM would be better, I believe that the system uses the TM and the puck to determine the attitude of the boat.  So that way it "knows" that when you jog left, that it will go left in relation to wherever the boat is currently pointing.  Meaning it needs a reference in order to make the move, north/south/east/west is irrelevant to the Ipilot, it simply needs to know which way you are pointing in order to make the correct move.  So further from the TM would make the system more accurately determine attitude.

Yes, correct on the "jog" feature.  Looking at the instructions again, it just needs a clear line of sight to the TM itself and there is an arrow on the puck which needs to be parallel to the keel of the boat. Based on this, I'm not sure if further away is better.  I will probably contact MK on this one

 

17 hours ago, TheRodFather said:

Garmin

 

1: If that picture of the wire hanging out of the fuse is how the current unit is powered, then I would not bother splicing into that for the new Garmin.  I would make a more permanent connection to 12v.  You will have to choose where.

Just curious, why don't you think it's a good idea to connect right into the fuse box.  Seems most others are doing it this way and the old one was done this way.

17 hours ago, TheRodFather said:

 

2:  My Garmin Echomap plus 73sv has a 3A fuse, so two of them drawing 6A total should be well within the limitations of the wire.  There should be an inline fuse in the power cable that Garmin gave you, that will tell you what the correct fuse should be, should also be in the manual as well.

Thanks.  I saw on the install guide, it is also a 3A fuse.

 

Thanks for the replies!

1 hour ago, RHuff said:

When I installed my garmin I had an older lowrance 4x mounted in the dash, one of the dinosaur units. I cut the power supply to the old lowrance and spliced in the new power supply to the garmin. Works like a dream. After one day out on the water with my new Garmin I couldn't believe how I had fished without one before. 

Thanks!  I also have an older Lowrance, so glad it worked for you.  Was your old Lowrance plugged directly into the fuse box?  Since there is an in-line fuse already on the Garmin power cords, I wonder if I should cut that off if powering directly into the fuse box?

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6 hours ago, simek3ru said:

 

Just curious, why don't you think it's a good idea to connect right into the fuse box.  Seems most others are doing it this way and the old one was done this way.

 

Those type of piggyback connectors are (in my opinion) not a good permanent solution.  Besides the wire hanging out the front, just asking to get yanked out when changing a fuse while standing on your head to get at the fusebox, as you drift toward some horrible unknown boat smashing hazard (OK, worst case senario :lol:).  They are prone to corrosion, etc.

 

For my piece of mind, the extra couple of minutes it would take to solder and shrink wrap it into another wire (or the same wire/fuse, just in the rear of the fusebox) would be worth it.

 

Mind you though, I am a bit a**l retentive about wiring.

 

When I see stuff like this:

 

https://www.grainger.com/product/1A075?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&s_kwcid=AL!2966***!50916775437!!!g!81032122797!&ef_id=WQUTLAAAANlrJhGW:20180328022629:s

 

I become very Leary of the quality of work that may have been done by the previous owner, and thats not a good feeling for me when it comes to a boat.

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1 hour ago, TheRodFather said:

Those type of piggyback connectors are (in my opinion) not a good permanent solution.  Besides the wire hanging out the front, just asking to get yanked out when changing a fuse while standing on your head to get at the fusebox, as you drift toward some horrible unknown boat smashing hazard (OK, worst case senario :lol:).  They are prone to corrosion, etc.

 

For my piece of mind, the extra couple of minutes it would take to solder and shrink wrap it into another wire (or the same wire/fuse, just in the rear of the fusebox) would be worth it.

 

Mind you though, I am a bit a**l retentive about wiring.

 

When I see stuff like this:

 

https://www.grainger.com/product/1A075?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&s_kwcid=AL!2966***!50916775437!!!g!81032122797!&ef_id=WQUTLAAAANlrJhGW:20180328022629:s

 

I become very Leary of the quality of work that may have been done by the previous owner, and thats not a good feeling for me when it comes to a boat.

My Ranger trailer used those piggyback connectors and after 30 years, none of them have ever failed.

I serviced commercial food equipment from every major manufacturer for over 35 years and never saw solder on any connector anywhere. Commercial dishwashers have a lot of water, steam and corrosive chemicals and corrosion on wires and connectors was seldom found except on circuit boards which have soldered components. Use what you have confidence in, I've never needed to solder connections.

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I wouldn't cut a fuse off. Seems to me like the extra fuse will just help, but not harm anything, but I am no electrician. 

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So I've completed everything except running new 6 gauge wire for the TM to replace the current 8 gauge.  I am having a hard time doing this.  I am using fish tape and rope to try to get it to certain sections of the boat, but struggling hard.

 

Any one have suggestions on how to wire this?  I'm thinking about calling BPS and asking how much they'd charge just to run this new wire.  Might be worth my time and headache.

 

Thoughts?

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Is the old wire still in place?  If so tape the new to the old really well , maybe get some wire pulling lube, or grease etc to wipe the new wire with, and pull........

 

My wires were encased in the 2 part expanding foam that the manufacturers use  in several places and no amount of pulling was going to get them out of those sections.  I was doing a full resto, so I just ran new wires when everything was gutted.

 

By the looks of your picture you have a Tracker, if it was built like my boat (similar hull), there is probably foam under the floor boards between the stringers and in various other cavities, so no easy way to run new wire.  Maybe pull the floor drains out and have a look at whats under there.

 

Maybe give the dealer a call and ask them how they do it, and decide if you want to get into it, or have them do it.

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The old wires were not budging at all, so I'm leaving them as is.  I decided to run some liquid tite conduits ( 2 x 1/2" x 25ft) and run them right up the center of the boat.  I'll put single 6 gauge wire into each conduit.

 

I removed the center floor drain, stuck my phone in and took pictures in both directions to see what I was working with.

I'll need to drill a hole in the center storage compartment floor as there is a cross beam all the way across that will prevent me from running all the way to the front of the boat.  I'll pull the conduit up through the center storage compartment and run it along the floor edge below the rod storage barrels to the front of the boat.

 

Just need to figure out how to make it look as clean as possible within the center storage compartment, even though no one will see it.  This is the best I could do.

 

 

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For those interested on what I ended up doing, I left the 8 gauge wire in place and ran the new 6 gauge right up the center of the boat, here are some pics.

 

View from the back under the live well:

boatpic1.jpg.cbe48fa8d1555494a4ab10ed8ca2a86e.jpg

 

View through the center floor drain:

boatpic2.jpg.d1d10314fe4e7e845a9ba9fd39c9c4f3.jpg

 

Hole I cut out in the center storage compartment:

boatpic4.jpg.469e75b8974eed329d07831f7d4c819d.jpg

 

View from the front deck opening:

boatpic3.jpg.8a58ae4c1b645fa918846072c29098ec.jpg

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