I wear polarized sunglasses pretty much until the sun is completely gone.

Tons of videos say in the summer bass will still school and to look for that and schools of bluegill and minnows etc. 

Also to check the vegetation in the water, watch your line and also mention that theyll see a bass in the grass, lilly's, etc.

Ive tried this even when you can see the bottom of 4-5ft banks but I cant see much more than 3-4 feet or less from my location. Am I doing something wrong or is this just a downside to being low in a kayak? 

 

I know I just need to keep practicing but half the battle is finding them. I've fished large areas of lily pads and trees with no success even after I've been told they're honey holes.

 

Attached the lakes contour map if anyone wants to help me learn to read it better. The north west corner has a wide patch of Lilly pads and grass. West side on the southern half has lillypads all the way down with a lot of coon tails between the middle of lake up to the lilly pads. I'll fish morning and night. Using so far a spinner but mostly senkos weightless because I keep getting snagged in the coontails. Also have a clipless rattle trap which I havnt tried yet. 

The north east corner, is that what's called a point?  Havnt fished the east side too much yet. Not as much vegetation over there.

Not sure if the map tells you this but any advice on what lures you would use?

 

I understand the best way to learn is to get out and fish. But I figure why not try to learn when I'm not on the water especially since I can only get out there 1-2 times a week and the weekends have been thunderstorms all day. 

Also I've been told by a few people that theyve caught a lot of hefty lm and even big sm. So I know it's not a barren lake. I just suck lol. Which is getting frustrating and discouraging. but its creating an obsession for success. 

That appears to be just a depth chart with no channel structure and no steep dropoffs. If I was you I would get a fish finder and/or drag a deeper so you can chuck it up in those pads and see what lies beneath. I am new to bass fishing like you and from all the research i've put in over the months, one thing that seems to be a commonality is that when the bite gets tough, go finesse style. Yea its boring, especially when you are in a boat, but you got to do what you got to do and it beats watching tv(well maybe not a steeler game).

Let’s talk about honey holes. My definition of a honey hole is an area that consistently holds fish. Not just one fish, but several, if not many. They are a reliable spot to bail myself out of a bad day. However, I have different honey holes for different times of the year and certain conditions (wind, weather, etc). I can give you one of my current honey holes right now, but if you go dragging a moving bait through it, you very likely won’t ever get bit. If a spot holds fish, it’s important to know why they’re holding there. This helps you determine how and what to present to them. 

 

And your 3’-4’ viz with shades on is normal. You’re not going to see a bass very easily. They know you’re there before you can detect them. Not to mention they are pretty well camouflaged. I don’t often see fish through the water, and typically when I do, I’ve already gotten too close and spooked them. Paddle through an area. If you see fish, keep padding and come back in an hour and position yourself to fish to them from a distance in which you will not spook them. 

Find that NE point you mentioned, that looks promising.  I'd look for the thickest cover that's also closest to deep water. The east side shore drops off quickly and could be a good day time area for drop shotting, deep cranks, maybe even a flutter spoon.  If there are bluegills, try topwater or that rattle trap along deep drop offs - the bluegills suspend high up alot in deep(ish) water, and often, bass are underneath them waiting for an opportunity.

Have you studied your lake on Google Maps?  I tried Earth, but I get fuzzy satellite pic, but on Google Maps, you can make out better definition; combined with your contour map, you may unlock some clues: general weedlines, dropoffs (more precise than your map above), and even a possible brush pile or two.  Even though the southern points seem very subtle, they appear to have good definition out into the lake.

On 8/13/2018 at 6:17 AM, Pickle_Power said:

Find that NE point you mentioned, that looks promising.  I'd look for the thickest cover that's also closest to deep water. The east side shore drops off quickly and could be a good day time area for drop shotting, deep cranks, maybe even a flutter spoon.  If there are bluegills, try topwater or that rattle trap along deep drop offs - the bluegills suspend high up alot in deep(ish) water, and often, bass are underneath them waiting for an opportunity.

What topwater would u suggest? Unfortunately I dont have the money this week to buy a handful of lures to try. So to fish the point and east side drop off Im trying to decide between getting a popper, buzzbait, prop, spook, jerkbait, etc. for topwater. Something you would suggest for both locations. I have plenty of stickbait so I can try dragging that along with a spinner and the rattle trap but I dont exactly have a topwater.

The plan was use whatever topwater I buy for a while at both locations. If I get a hit and miss throw the stick bait. If the topwater dosnt produce then switch to dragging/swimming the rattle trap. and eventually wacky rigging senkos if all else fails. Or texas depending if I can tell what kind of foliage is down there.

Thats basically the way I think I should be fishing these drops and points based off of what Ive been reading. The only thing I dont understand completely is the time of day to use certain types of bait. I just want to try to avoid going out there and do the complete wrong thing. Even though it seems like there is really no wrong way. Just trying to understand how the bass tend to act at certian times of day and Im seeing contradicting articles.

 

On 8/13/2018 at 9:37 AM, Choporoz said:

Have you studied your lake on Google Maps?  I tried Earth, but I get fuzzy satellite pic, but on Google Maps, you can make out better definition; combined with your contour map, you may unlock some clues: general weedlines, dropoffs (more precise than your map above), and even a possible brush pile or two.  Even though the southern points seem very subtle, they appear to have good definition out into the lake.

You mean satellite view on google maps? I looked but it dosnt seem to show anything in the water and not much of whats around the bank. Maybe Im looking for the wrong things?

 

I would recommend a Storm Chug Bug, in whatever color you can find that closely matches bluegill.  The one that looks like a bullfrog is pretty close, having a pale yellow belly.  White  or black topwaters rarely fail wherever I go, as well.  I recommend the Chug Bug because it is great for a slow pop-and-pause retrieve along weed edges, and also it is really easy to walk the dog with it when fan-casting out in open water.  The suspended bluegill-bass pattern I have found in my local lakes tends to occur in "no man's land" where it's not necessarily great looking water to throw topwaters, perhaps a really long cast straight out from shore, well beyond the "drop off".

 

I generally have most success with topwaters when there are low light conditions - dawn and dusk comes to mind, but also any overcast days are worth giving it a try.

 

Your instincts are right to go with a Senko type bait, you really can't go wrong there.  It's probably one of the better options when there's bluebird skies.  Still, I try more aggressive tactics like crankbaits, spinnerbaits, or chatterbaits before I go more finesse with a soft plastic.

 

To me, it just makes sense to cover water with fast moving baits this time of year, given their high metabolism in these high water temps.  I only temper back with jigs and worms if I really have to.  That's just my style.

4 hours ago, Pickle_Power said:

I would recommend a Storm Chug Bug, in whatever color you can find that closely matches bluegill.  The one that looks like a bullfrog is pretty close, having a pale yellow belly.  White  or black topwaters rarely fail wherever I go, as well.  I recommend the Chug Bug because it is great for a slow pop-and-pause retrieve along weed edges, and also it is really easy to walk the dog with it when fan-casting out in open water.  The suspended bluegill-bass pattern I have found in my local lakes tends to occur in "no man's land" where it's not necessarily great looking water to throw topwaters, perhaps a really long cast straight out from shore, well beyond the "drop off".

 

I generally have most success with topwaters when there are low light conditions - dawn and dusk comes to mind, but also any overcast days are worth giving it a try.

 

Your instincts are right to go with a Senko type bait, you really can't go wrong there.  It's probably one of the better options when there's bluebird skies.  Still, I try more aggressive tactics like crankbaits, spinnerbaits, or chatterbaits before I go more finesse with a soft plastic.

 

To me, it just makes sense to cover water with fast moving baits this time of year, given their high metabolism in these high water temps.  I only temper back with jigs and worms if I really have to.  That's just my style.

For the amount of time i get to be on the water, especially with the weather in the past month or two, Im starting to get away from slow stickbait fishing.

 

For crankbaits, what depth do you recommend based off of the map I provided? The depths are a little confusing to me. I can eventually buy 2 depths for shallow and banks but not sure if theyre meant to be dragged or swam from top to bottom, etc. Also suspending, floating, sinking, etc?

 

3 1/4" or 2.5" chug bug?

I would get the biggest chug bug.  Off top of my head, it's probably around 4".

 

As far as crankbaits go, at a minimum I'd have a squarebill that dives 2-4', and a mid-depth version.  I really like the Strike King versions, but Berkley has good affordable cranks too. I'd say ones rated for 6-12' diving depth would usually suffice.  I don't do much deep cranking because weeds are terrible around here. Underutilized options for bass are Flicker Shads and Shad Raps.   I have a lot of both and they catch fish like mad.  Most diving cranks float.  Usually only jerbaits suspend or sink.  Don't sleep on your rattle trap too, as long as weeds aren't too bad in the area.

12 hours ago, Pickle_Power said:

I would get the biggest chug bug.  Off top of my head, it's probably around 4".

 

As far as crankbaits go, at a minimum I'd have a squarebill that dives 2-4', and a mid-depth version.  I really like the Strike King versions, but Berkley has good affordable cranks too. I'd say ones rated for 6-12' diving depth would usually suffice.  I don't do much deep cranking because weeds are terrible around here. Underutilized options for bass are Flicker Shads and Shad Raps.   I have a lot of both and they catch fish like mad.  Most diving cranks float.  Usually only jerbaits suspend or sink.  Don't sleep on your rattle trap too, as long as weeds aren't too bad in the area.

Tried the rattle trap yesterday on the east drop off. Right between the drop and shallow theres a line of thick weeds so it had some trouble. But the spot is promising. A guy 15 ft from me using a sm-med roostertail showed up and caught a 2 and 2.5lb sm and I saw a hog jump in the distance. There were tons of baitfish jumping, I guess feeding, like crazy at around 8pm. 

We were on shore though so it will be easier from a yak to fish that drop.  

I'll probably grab the chug bug first. Then a crankbait next. 

 

I'm not sure if I can fish the north east point. Def not from shore, maybe from a yak. The entire point was filled with alge and lillypads. The vegetation covers a very large area so I need to figure out where the drop off starts. If the drop starts near the edge of the vegetation then it's fine. But if the drop off is deeper in the veg its prob not worth it right? Idt I can fish it otherwise even with a trig.

It's such a large area I'm guessing itll be hard to finesse it since they have so much area to roam and sit. Maybe I'll try it.

I'd try that point from a kayak and work everything you can along the edge of emergent weeds.  If it all looks fishy, then look for where weeds form points, and also pockets and openings in the thick stuff.  Cover top, middle, and bottom of the water column.

10 minutes ago, Pickle_Power said:

I'd try that point from a kayak and work everything you can along the edge of emergent weeds.  If it all looks fishy, then look for where weeds form points, and also pockets and openings in the thick stuff.  Cover top, middle, and bottom of the water column.

How far do you typically stay from weed lines? Im not sure if being too close scares thm. I guess for the pockets Ill have to get into the thick stuff to reach it accurately. I would use stick baits in that instance correct?

 

Do you fish along the weed line or from the line towards the middle of the lake? like parallel or perpendicular if that makes sense? If you fish perpendicular do you cast into the weeds and drag it out or right to the edge then reel into the deeper part?

 

Thanks for all the information bud. All these articles and videos dont touch on the minuscule things like that.

 

@Pickle_Power Do you suggest the whopper plopper for top water? If so 110 or 130? My rods rated 3/4 and the 130 weighs 13/8oz. Theres a ton of bluegills in my lake. Should I get the blue gill or stick to bone and loon?

6 hours ago, cheezledzul said:

How far do you typically stay from weed lines? Im not sure if being too close scares thm. I guess for the pockets Ill have to get into the thick stuff to reach it accurately. I would use stick baits in that instance correct?

I first stay far away and cast "power fishing" baits like spinnerbaits, crankbaits, topwaters, buzzbaits... anything you can work pretty aggressively to gauge their activity level.  Once I work over the area and decide they are a little more buried in cover and don't want to chase a whole lot, then I may move in closer and work more thoroughly with Texas rigged stuff or a weedless jig.  With a kayak, you can be pretty stealthy getting in close as long as you don't make much commotion.

 

6 hours ago, cheezledzul said:

Do you fish along the weed line or from the line towards the middle of the lake? like parallel or perpendicular if that makes sense? If you fish perpendicular do you cast into the weeds and drag it out or right to the edge then reel into the deeper part?

 

As mentioned, once I have moved in closer to the weedline, I probably would parallel the weedline with those same aggressive baits, before working right into the thicker stuff with plastics.  When there are grass mats, lilly pads, whatever it may be on top, I would always try a hollow bodied frog, especially when cloudy or low light in evening or morning.

 

50 minutes ago, cheezledzul said:

@Pickle_Power Do you suggest the whopper plopper for top water? If so 110 or 130? My rods rated 3/4 and the 130 weighs 13/8oz. Theres a ton of bluegills in my lake. Should I get the blue gill or stick to bone and loon?

The Whopper Plopper is a good choice, but it does not do the best near any weeds, as the prop wants to get grass wrapped around it.  I don't think you can go wrong with the Bone version.  The 110 probably makes most sense for your set-up.

 

If I were you and didn't have a lot of topwater choices, I'd spend the money on one popper, one hollow frog, and one buzzbait.  You'll catch a lot more fish with this variety, in my opinion.

 

I don't know if you have any Zoom Flukes or something of the like, but they are great for tossing in to the grass mats and working over top of them, then pausing in openings/edges of the grass.  They slip through vegetation pretty well.  Also, I like the Zoom worms with a buzz tail.  I'm not 100% what their exact product name is for that. White/silver/baitfish type colors with flake seem to be the ticket for me with these plastics.

 

And no worries on the advice - love to talk fishing and I'd like to hear how you do!

You answered my questions and even answered additional questions i thought of lol.

I grabbed a loon 110 just because they had only 2 and I was already there buying a anchor. 

 

Any specific hollow frog? The storm chug bug I'll probably have to order. Preferably from dicks. I dont have a baitshop within 30 min of me and that one closes by the time I'm back from work. Hoping to have everything I want to get by tomorrow night, going at 4am Saturday. But the baitshop has a sale starting tomorrow 20% off bait and tackle so I may wait and go buy a bunch of stuff you reccomend from them since I'll be able to get more with the money I have. Just need a list lol. 

I dont have flukes but I have keitech easy shiner 3". But realized I need smaller hooks for them. 

 

I'll for sure keep you posted. 

@Pickle_Power 

Also, I'm going Saturday morning at 4-5am. How would you fish, what would be your gameplan?. Would the whopper/popper be the best choice? Or stickbait? Stick to topwater and spinners and fish fast?

Do I fish shallows with vegetation or stay around the dropoff and point?

I also have a spinner and rattletrap. Just trying to figure out where and how to best focus my time in the morning since theres only a few good hours.

I would say if you're starting that early, probably any shoreline areas will have some bass.  Hard to say without any personal knowledge of the lake.  I still think that point will be money, but if you have to walk or paddle to it from a different starting point, I'd cover water all along shore on my way there.  I would try the WP first thing...as I have mentioned, generally topwaters are best in early am or late pm.  Start out working the top; when it gets to a certain level of daylight, the topwater may not work.  Then the spinnerbait and rattle trap should get some work.  I don't do anything "finesse" like a Senko until I decide they don't want something moving horizontally above them.

On 8/15/2018 at 11:03 AM, cheezledzul said:

 

You mean satellite view on google maps? I looked but it dosnt seem to show anything in the water and not much of whats around the bank. Maybe Im looking for the wrong things?

 

Yes.  Google maps sat view...   Zoom in and look for features, contrasts, weedlines, etc

1 hour ago, Pickle_Power said:

I still think that point will be money, but if you have to walk or paddle to it from a different starting point, I'd cover water all along shore on my way there.  I would try the WP first thing..

WP is west point? I'm new to reading maps for fishing, I only see a point on the NE corner opposite of the boat dock. 

I'll be there till at least 11am. My cousins will be in town for my sisters bridal shower so need to keep the boyfriends and whoever company lol. Do you use spinners through lillypads and sub surface coontails?

At that NE point theres a lot of big branches in the water I think. Theres a man made water run off. One of those cement tubes in the corner. There wasnt a ton of water flowing but that whole corner has a couple water run offs in the first 1/4 of the lake going south from the corner. 

WP = Whopper Plopper.  Spinnerbaits don't do the best in heavy cover, but they can go through some sparse grass pretty clean.  I was referring to the NE corner with the point.  I like to start by "burning" a spinnerbait, keeping it near the top, even making the blades wake on the surface a little.  If that isn't the ticket, then I slow it down and keep it down a few feet and work deeper as I go until I find what works best.  If those outlet pipes have water running, that bodes well for good fishing, as it may attract some bait near the inflows, as well as increased dissolved oxygen for the bass to feel more comfortable.

Cool. I'll give it a try. Its supposed to rain by me today so hopefully in the morning the runoff will bring more fish to slay lol